A YEAR OR SO AGO MY CORVETTE MECHANIC IN TULSA, WHO SEEMS QUITE KNOWLEDGEABLE ON TECH STUFF, RECOMMENDED I RUN CASTROIL HI-MILEAGE SEMI-SYNTHETIC IN MY VETTES. (10W40 IN SUMMER 10/5W30 WINTER) THESE ARE 70-80K MILE CARS, NONE OF WHICH BURNS ANY OIL. I HAVE DONE SO WITH NO PROBLEMS, AS SIX MONTH OIL CHANGES WORK OUT ABOUT RIGHT FOR ME.

MY QUESTION IS, DOES THIS DO ANY GOOD OR IS IT JUST A CHICKEN-SOUP EXERCISE i.e. CAN'T HURT?

WHAT DO YOU ALL THINK?

What have you been using Dino oil?......if it ain't broke don't fix it......

I think the most important thing is that you change the oil as needed. Full synthetic has been known to pass through gaskets and such that were raised on dino. Then the owners switch back to dino. I've used syn blends before with no negative results other than minor valve cover seepage on a 5.7. Oil threads are as volatile as they get. Might have to make this thread (PR&C). (Politics, Religion and Controversy)

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HAD BEEN USING MOBIL 1

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FAR BE IT FROM ME TO IGNITE ANY CONTROVERSY--

Stick with the Mobil 1.....they do change the additive packs in the extended milage oils....and I think Mobil 1 even makes one. I run the regular Mobil 1 in all my gasoline cars and Mobil Delvac synthetic in the Duramax's and Dino Mobil Delvac in the Semi's.....Your later C4's came with Mobil 1 from the factory I believe.......

Do not weaken my friend......stay the course........I beseech you.....

I did look and Mobil 1 does offer a High Milage fully synthetic oil for engines with 75K or more miles. I'm sure it will also add 20 to 30 RWHP......

I run semi-syn Motorcraft (gasp) in our newer vehicles because I'm cheap. It's the same price as dino oil. I don't know who makes it.

Plus if the oil leaks or fouls or burns off before you can even get to 5K, then you're not really seeing the benefits of the top shelf stuff. I spend the $ saved on the best quality filter I can find. You'll have to deviate from the GM gods there. AC-Delco for example, is the worst quality I've cut open, worse than orange Fram.

I wish I could run synthetic in the vette for some of the heavy abuse and temperature it sees, but because of leaks I use diesel oil instead, which isn't your average oil. Plus it's good for flat tappet cams and good in the motorcycle with the wet clutch! Rotella T 15-40

My 85 was raised on dino oil and had some oozing but when I put synthetics in right after purchase it was a disaster. Its never been the same since. 15 years of sludge.... gone.

I think you'll be fine running that. Oil changes are more important than the oil in it (IMHO). Also be aware that some "synthetic" oils are not as "synthetic" as they seem.

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I TEND TO AGREE. I'VE ALWAYS USED REGULAR OLD CASTROIL IN MY TRUCK, IT'S OVER 100K WITH NO PROBLEMS. BUT I CHANGE IT OUT ABOUT EVERY 3K.

This is a nasty topic... so much misinformation abounds, it isn't even funny.

1. The 3k oil change is about as archaic as the pay phone. It was established as a nice rule of thumb back in the days when all oil was garbage. Even dino oil can go 5k or more, in NORMAL usage.

2. Synthetic can go much longer, 7k or more, easily.

3. Going to a thicker oil is so very old school. Think about this for a moment... the only part that actually wears is the rings and valve seals... and if you are running good synthetics, they won't wear nearly as fast. Also, modern engines have much tighter internal tolerances, and going to a thicker oil could compromise the ability for the oil to get through. Especially at the bearings.... remember, bearings are hydrostatic, they do not touch, except for an instant at startup, maybe. As such, they don't wear.

When I retired my original LT1 at 185k miles, the cross hatches on the cylinder walls were still visually apparent.

4. I agree, good filters are a the best bet. Removes the garbage from the oil, period. I use the K&N oil filter. They have a very strong case and that nut at the end is nice for easy removal. WIX and Mobil 1 Gold are nice options.

This has me curious...

http://www.syntheticoilhq.com/bypass/bypasskits.html

.....good stuff Andy......I put about 7,000 miles a year on the GS. I change oil once per year with Mobil 1. When I do the oil life indicator is usually under 20%.....so I have gotten to trust what the car is telling me. I also change out oil filters at around 3500 to 4000 just because I like to......

Our friendly Chevy store in town has an oil change business that is inexpensive if you use GM's Dexos home brand AC Delco oil. It is part synthetic and part not I guess. I have been using it in the Tahoe's and running them by the oil life indicator. 2011 and up have to have a Dexos certified oil to meet the warranty. Tons of oils are Dexos approved and they all have to pay GM for that approval......nice work GM.......the Chevy store also rotates the tires every oil change for no extra charge......very nice!

Mobil 1 is Dexos approved........as would be expected. Gris read post #6 it is gospel......

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YEAH, THIS IS PRETTY MUCH CHICKEN SOUP, CAN'T HURT AND MAKES ME FEEL BETTER :-)
I HAVE LONG BEEN OF THE OPINION THAT THE SINGLE BEST THING YOU CAN DO FOR ANY ENGINE IS KEEP THE OIL & FILTER CHANGED OUT REGULARLY.

I've only used Dino oil and change it at 3k or once a year, whichever comes first. I like to do it on the TBird and Vette right before going into winter storage so all the crap is out of the crankcase.
The truck and van I also do at 3k, I feel it's cheaper in the long run to do it more often and get any junk out of the engine. I know others may think it's a waste of $$ but it's worked out fine for me for almost 50 years so why mess with something that's worked this long?
Back in the days when it wasn't unusual to start looking at an engine rebuild at 50-75K, I'd gone over 100k-150k without problems and I was doing the 3k oil changes then.

My 2 cents.

I think it was Jiffy Lube that invented the 3000 mile oil change. Every manual I've ever checked was 5,000+. And Jiffy Lube is more likely to destroy your engine than old oil.


So what's better, changing oil before, or after a track day?

Obviously both is better but I'm cheap and lazy.

Let's say I cook my oil at 260+F for awhile at the track, I figure its used up and changing it after is wise. Before a track day, I'll top it off unless I'm near an oil change anyways. But then again you want some good oil film in there for running it WOT too.

Maybe oil only before track, and oil+filter after. BTW, if you really want to take care of your engine, run it WOT soaking hot every now and then. It'll clean out your combustion chambers. I bet most engines suffer from lack of exercise rather than too much.

I agree, Kevin.

My Dad died in 1977, leaving my Mom with a POS 1976 Dodge Aspen and a tired, but much loved VW Beetle.

She traded he POS Aspen in on an equally shitty 1978 Audi Fox.

In defense off the Fox, it was not the right car for my Mom's driving style. She lugged it... she babied it... all the wrong things to do to a small bore I-4 (1.7 litre).

It had no torque, and she kept running it in 4th gear at 25 MPH, just like the Beetle, which had some low end torque and better gearing.

After some 60k miles, the rings were toast, the car overheated like a mofo, and in general was done.

Sad, actually, it was a wonderful car to drive, great steering and a lovely feel... great ride, great seats. A potentially great car that just needed wrung out a bit.

The same thing killed FIAT here, too... among other problems, I mean, shitty build quality didn't help much.