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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Luckily, we can go to Flow Chart for Lights On chime fail...

Test light D14 to ground.

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Posted on: 2016/1/31 22:24
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Test result for Lights On Chime Fail:



Quote:

Schrade wrote:
Luckily, we can go to Flow Chart for Lights On chime fail...

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Test light D14 to ground.

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Posted on: 2016/1/31 22:37
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Since I can identify the Lights On Chime terminal, for the test, I should be able to ID the terminal for Key In Ignition Chime.

But alas, the next step in flow chart asks if Key In Ignition Chime is working.

NO. So I have reached the convergent point for BOTH failures' Flow Charts, withOUT knowing what FSM screw up is.

Take THAT MF'er!!!

Pretty soon, we'll reach a convergent point in Flow Charts for EVERY INTERMITTENT that I have here.

Resume tomorrow.

Anyone following???
Posted on: 2016/2/1 2:28
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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CCM pull hard job? Pffttt; try the A/C programmer.

It's ON the firewall, HIGH ABOVE THE GAS PEDAL.

Everything is working now. Every screw turn, I'll have to wiggle parts, WHILE LISTENING TO CHIME, and see if I can find a loose connection............

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Posted on: 2016/2/1 20:35
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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IN the car...

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Posted on: 2016/2/1 20:38
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Matatk Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Still following along, Chuck. Hope you find it.
Posted on: 2016/2/1 21:19
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Right now, I can get NO problems to manifest. EVERYthing is working perfectly.

I wiggled harnesses, STUDIED them, doesn't look so scary at all.

No CHIME interruptions, NOTHING. A/C, Radio working, NO problems.

I'm ready for SOMEthing - ..........

A/C Programmer back in.

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Posted on: 2016/2/1 21:43
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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The harness going across the middle is for my Tranny Control Module.

Will try to re-secure some of these harnesses with plastic loom, zip ties.

Maybe that will manifest SOME problem...


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Posted on: 2016/2/1 21:47
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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CCM ready to return its mount...

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Posted on: 2016/2/1 21:56
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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A shot of A/C Programmer, for an idea of accessibility.

If yours never fails, good. If it does, you know where it is.

The 'firewall' side of A/C Programmer is PAPER. It is NOT sealed against its mount. NOT liking that...

Rapping with my knuckle did not interfere with chimes...

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Posted on: 2016/2/1 21:59
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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What we're looking at here - CCM back into place...

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Posted on: 2016/2/1 22:07
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Chimes stopped. Touched NOTHING.

Lights On Chime fail...

Gotta catch them in the act here.

???????????????????????????????????????????

edit:
There's a short or open IN, or TO Chime Module.

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Posted on: 2016/2/1 22:13
Edited by Schrade on 2016/2/1 22:29:35
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Chime is in dash behind DIC. Rapped on Chime Module, and it started back up. DIC IS loose - knocked on it, Chime stopped..

PROGRESS!!!

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Posted on: 2016/2/1 22:18
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Chime module.

I cannot figure out if it's the connector, or the Module itself.

Touching the TOP Mounting tab interrupted the Chime. BARELY wiggling the Chime Harness Connector did the same thing.

Either way, could Chime Circuit malfunction interfere with other circuits?????????

USE CARE TO NOT PUSH THE DIC INTERFACE BACK OUT OF THE HOUSING - NOT EASY TO SNAP BACK IN !!!!!!!

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Posted on: 2016/2/1 22:43
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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I HAVE FOUND A [THE ???] PROBLEM.

Time to read up on 'Circuit Description', and examine the Schematic of Chime Module, in relation to CCM.

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Posted on: 2016/2/1 22:55
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Some DE Grease on Module tabs, re-connect, and test...

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Posted on: 2016/2/1 23:01
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Plugged in Module, and it chimed. Rapping effected chime, BUT IT WOULDN'T STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Is the chime fixed?

Then, can we find anything else?
Posted on: 2016/2/1 23:06
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Chime re- installed, working, rapping will not stop it as before.

DIC RE-installed, Chime normal operation.

CCM re-install next.

Time for a chilly lager and some reading here WHEW.................
Posted on: 2016/2/1 23:14
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Matatk Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Wow...what an ordeal. Hope that was it? Maybe cold solder joints on the board? Were the pins/connectors all making good contact?
Posted on: 2016/2/1 23:43
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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No clue Matt; all I did was grease on the 4 tabs. I can't see that grease made the difference, but I cannot argue with results ( so far here ).

I gave it a brief glance about breakdown of the module itself, but didn't see anything. Should have investigated further. Not too late tho'

----------------
The greased connections did NOT fix it.

Wrap up / cleanup, Key in, rapped on chime again, it stopped.

TO MAKE IT WORSE, PULLED THE KEY (NO MODULE CONTACT), THEN STUCK IN THE KEY, AND THE CHIME RE-STARTED.

HOLY CRAP..........................................
Posted on: 2016/2/2 0:09
Edited by Schrade on 2016/2/2 0:32:19
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Quote:

Schrade wrote:
No clue Matt; all I did was grease on the 4 tabs. I can't see that grease made the difference, but I cannot argue with results ( so far here ).

I gave it a brief glance about breakdown of the module itself, but didn't see anything. Should have investigated further. Not too late tho'

----------------
edit:
The greased connections did NOT fix it.

Wrap up / cleanup, Key in, rapped on chime again, it stopped.

TO MAKE IT WORSE, PULLED THE KEY (NO MODULE CONTACT), THEN STUCK IN THE KEY, AND THE CHIME RE-STARTED.

HOLY CRAP..........................................


Sticking the key on, that made chime re-start, might have induced current to 'jump' a bad connection / solder joint in the Chime Module.

Again, I'm able to stop Chime, and re-start it, by knocking on it.

Have to pull it, and open the Module. I can't do any damage to it, in its condition...
Posted on: 2016/2/2 1:22
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Hmm...

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Posted on: 2016/2/2 1:34
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Test time...

edit: Maybe NOT test time - "Solid State Do Not Measure Resistance".

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Posted on: 2016/2/2 1:58
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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I am absolutely dumbfounded.

Put in the chime logic board, and beat on it. Top, side, bottom, inside, outside, it would not STOP chiming.

I am absolutely dumbfounded.

SOMEone come up with something stupid, that's the solution.

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Posted on: 2016/2/2 2:45
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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I HAVE been able to stop the chime by rapping on the Module.

I have NOT been able to stop it by just wiggling it on the harness.

Nothing else, wiggling other harnesses interferes with it, EXCEPT working the Key in ignition...

???????????????????
Posted on: 2016/2/2 2:51
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Perhaps it is the Chime Module housing, applying pressure to one of the connection tabs, opening a soldered joint.

And this is why I can stop the Chime only when INSIDE the housing, with rapping pressure?

???
Posted on: 2016/2/2 16:51
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Matatk Re: Help on CCM pull...
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I'd say it's time to source a new one. I wouldn't reuse it after all of that.
Posted on: 2016/2/2 18:49
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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I'm going to put a Dremel to the 4 tab openings.

BESIDES, I CANNOT TELL THAT IT'S NOT ONE OF THE CONNECTORS, ON THE END OF THE HARNESS, TO THE CHIME MODULE.

I'm convinced that pressure is applying to one or more tabs, that's breaking the connection.

The logic board is held inside the housing, so it will not move out of place inside the housing...
Posted on: 2016/2/2 19:20
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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It appears for the moment Matt, that you are right - broken solder joint.

I opened up the opening, plugged in the chime, and it wouldn't stop with rapping.

Holding my breath here..................

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Posted on: 2016/2/2 19:48
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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PVC Tape for testing...

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Posted on: 2016/2/2 20:02
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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With baited breath, I say you're right.

Chime is in. Working. I CANNOT stop the Chime by rapping on it with my fingers, whereas I COULD before.

Got one Watched on eBay for $20.

Re-assembly continues, looking for another Short / Open.

I WAS able to make tranny selector lights blink, sometime past in this thread, so there could be another short / open.

LCD Fuse feeds Chime, SO BROKEN JOINT IN CHIME LOGIC BOARD WOULD SURELY MAKE LCD FLICKER.
Posted on: 2016/2/2 20:13
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Matatk Re: Help on CCM pull...
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I'd surely replace it at this point.

Since I don't have my fsm in front of me, what else is on that circuit?
Posted on: 2016/2/2 20:19
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Matatk Re: Help on CCM pull...
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I'd surely replace it at this point.

Since I don't have my fsm in front of me, what else is on that circuit?
Posted on: 2016/2/2 20:19
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Already got one Watched on eBay there Matt. Just have to MAKE SURE that there's breakage in it. It's what diags is all about - ruling OUT stuff.

Most of Chime Circuit is above, post 123. FSM Section 8A-76-0

Electricity flow is like water. Interrupt it in one place, and water flow is changed EVERYwhere else. An LCD Light will show it.
Posted on: 2016/2/2 21:12
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Alright - chime 'seems' good to go.

I am VERY neat a short in Tranny Selector Lights harness.

AND, just noticed that my horn does not work right now.

CCM re-install is on hold...

Must be another place to get more feedback on my notes as I go here. Matt; free coffee for anyone on the boards?
Posted on: 2016/2/2 21:55
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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CCM out of the way. The 2 tap connectors, added by the shop that put in the auto, are loose.

I could have done the auto, and saved myself $5.5k here...

The horn might be out, since I pulled the left horn, of 2, and left an open connector.

And we are having FUN. Get out, cam card out, edit pic, post, and back in. SH*&..........................

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Posted on: 2016/2/2 22:12
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Bose out; connectors A, B, to get harness back for working room.

GRUB break...................

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Posted on: 2016/2/2 22:46
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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DE Grease in new connections...

...and test, and wiggle. Clean n tight. Harness extension wrapped as well...

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Posted on: 2016/2/2 23:20
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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5 seconds. WithOUT connectors...

And see how little space FOR them...................

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Posted on: 2016/2/2 23:34
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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IN, with ONE connector. HALFWAY IN, to THEN get the SECOND connector, CAREFULLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Posted on: 2016/2/3 0:01
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Squared up...

...and in.

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Posted on: 2016/2/3 0:05
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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And set to locator pins, right side.

Note that the Bose harness is pulled forward out of the way...

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Posted on: 2016/2/3 0:08
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Matatk Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Those scotchlok connectors are terrible. You should remove every one of them and correctly rewire.
Posted on: 2016/2/3 2:55
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Been advised that before there Matt, workin' the Z mill.

If anything goes wrong, I know exactly where to go on it... IN SHORT ORDER.

They haven't failed me under the hood, yet.................
Posted on: 2016/2/3 3:32
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Routing Bose + Shifter harness back through Radio / A/C housing, and the shifter lights blinked.

I TOLD you, but you wouldn't listen...

I wonder if they could have been the source of the original problem [s].........................

One way to make sure that they are NOT.

Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Those scotchlok connectors are terrible. You should remove every one of them and correctly rewire.
Posted on: 2016/2/3 22:59
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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I used 2 different connectors, for the shift select harness.

Plastic loom on harness.

Center support is free - needs to be lifted up...

to match frame support.

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Posted on: 2016/2/5 2:12
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bogus Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Yuck... what a project...

Posted on: 2016/2/5 18:55
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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Sounds like the voice of experience!!!

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bogus wrote:
Yuck... what a project...

Posted on: 2016/2/5 21:14
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bogus Re: Help on CCM pull...
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sadly, it is...
Posted on: 2016/2/5 23:44
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Schrade Re: Help on CCM pull...
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The speed shop [pffttt] that did my auto install did a great job mixing up all the dash / console screws and bolts.

$9k. That was a $6k job, and they did a $3k job. Stay away from MAYHEM Motorsports. Mayhem? Yup.

It did almost NO GOOD, to label and tape dash screws. Thankfully I have the GM Manual for ALL C4 parts. What a nightmare.

(Andy / Matt; I can try to upload those Manuals of C4 Parts - they're an invaluable resource - 22 .pdf's, 425 megs)

I spent :45 waxing the I/C glass. I was able to hide some scratches here...


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Posted on: 2016/3/6 0:36
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