I've started on setting up the new battery cutoff the other day. This will replace the temporary one on the battery.
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The best spot I could find to mount it was in front of the drivers side front wheel. Directly opposite the overflow canister I found the frame already had a pair of 6mm-1 threaded bungs in the frame in the perfect location.
I made a metal mounting plate from 1/8" 3.5" wide steel. 2 Holes in the top to mount it then it was a matter of figuring how low to mount the switch. I make a Styrofoam dummy of the switch and taped it in place to test things out. I then was able to run the headlights and be sure that they wouldn't contact the switch (which they didn't). Simple matter then to use the switch mount and drill the holes to mount it to the plate I had made.
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I've already gotten some 2 gauge cable to run from the block to the switch and a 4 gauge armored cable to go from the switch to the battery. Once it's all hooked up, I'm planning on leaving the original cable in there, just tape it up and tie it out of the way, just in-case something goes wrong I can revert it back in short order. Plus I can't get to where the original cable end attaches to the block.
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Next step is attach the new main cable to the block or bellhousing that will go to the switch. That's going to wait till I get the leaking a/c hoses replaced and my mechanic recharges the system. He's willing to let me put it on one of his lifts to hook up the cable on the bottom end. I get nervous underneath a car on jack stand etc.

That's where it's at for the moment.

what classes make you run that?

It doesn't get raced, it's a street car. I like to disconnect the battery if it's not going to be driven for a while and this was a nice clean way to set one up. Also if I take it to a show, you can have everything up and not have to pull fuses or unhook the battery or risk a run down battery.
Prevents the battery from running down over time plus it can be a good theft deterrent also. I plan to make a heavy cover over the cable end of the switch and the handle unscrews. If it's hard to reach it could be one more thing to protect it.

Ah, I installed a simple marine cutoff that goes directly on the battery

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That first picture shows the one I'm currently using, it's a real pita. I make a little non-conductive insert when in use. Once this new setup is done, hopefully it will be both better and easier to use.

Looks good so far!

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Thanks

Just realized I had a typo earlier, I use that piece of plastic when it's disconnected and not in use. Currently loosen the bolt, slip it under the nut and snug it up. Next to impossible to have any current in that situation.

Got my ac hose in and may have been shorted a seal. I'm assuming there's supposed to be one between the back of the compressor and where the hoses assembly bolts to the compressor from the condenser and evaporator. Have to either get back with the seller or check with Chevy because I've spent some time with the FSM and didn't find any references to seals anywhere on that double hose and I know there's got to be something or the freon would leak out.

Got the car in a car show at the company block part this weekend so likely won't get back to this before next week. Not a rush but I'd like to get the two off the 'to do' list.

Well though delayed due to family and other issues, finally got it all hooked up. My mechanic has some time so got it on his lift. I did pay his guy to hook up the lower end (insurance stuff you know). Asked it to be hooked up to the ground spot on the drivers side of the engine and run up to the switch. It's a marine grade 2 gauge cable, resists heat, oil, grease etc. After the switch is a shielded cable to the battery. Added an extra ground cable between the frame and the cable from the engine. 250 amp cutoff switch and finished it off today, so far looks good.

About a month or so ago, the light gauge cut-off switch I was using decided to snap off in the middle of the highway. Luckily I had all this in the works, now it's better IMO.
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Turned out nice. Glad the cheap one didn't leave you stranded.

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Well, yes and no. I went to get my daughter from here job and on the way home, the car started bucking and the instrument cluster started flashing on and off then the car died in the middle of a construction zone. Luckily there was enough shoulder to pull out of traffic. I keep a small toolkit in the car and as soon as I lifted the hood you could see that first disconnect had split in two.

Took the remainder off the battery and the cable off the severed piece and hooked it up and we were on our way. Think it surprised my daughter just how fast it could be diagnosed and be back on the road.

Luckily I had all the right stuff on hand or it would have been flatbed time.

She has a lot of respect for these 'old farmers' :-)

Believe it or not, had an issue with it. Adding some hold-downs on the cable that runs to the battery, while adjusting the cable the end came off. Didn't appear to be crimped that well. Went to Fleet Farm (Farm supply etc) and they had replacement ends for side mount batteries. Back to being operational but hadn't expected that to happen, expensive cable with cheap ends on it.