Yup, subject says it all. I have a lot of inventory I'd like to move so everything has been marked down 20%.

This includes all of the C4 rear suspension kits and their options (lo profile clamps, steel bodies & rod end boots) as well as the pin top shock mounts.

These prices will only last while supplies of the products do so don't wait too long.

Feel free to PM or email me (tom@banskimotorsports.com) for current availability.

Great deal!

Wish I had the cash to get some of this stuff....

Still love my kit. looks and works perfectly.

quick question..

on the Camber rods for the rear. how much range of adjustment is there for a lowered car.. my 90 has more negative camber on one side and I was told I was at the end of the adjustment..

I have these currently
https://www.vbandp.com/auto-parts/c4-c ... -ends-1984-96-detail.html

The sale has been over for a while now and I accomplished my goal of reducing inventory.

Unfortunately the toe rods have been phased out. Although a very popular product the cost of this kit was getting higher every time I sourced parts. Mainly due to the cost of the custom machined differential bracket and knuckle adapters. I considered dumbing down the design to reduce cost but didn't want to ruin what I thought was a good product.

The Trailing Arms and Camber Rods are still available but in a slightly different form. Both of those are sold much more a-la-carte now, with the customer being able to buy as little as the suspension links themselves and making their own related parts. Or being able to add those related parts as options to their kit.

The spacers are no longer custom machined specifically for the C4 application. Rather they're a bit more generic but still work well with the TAs & CRs. There is the need for a shim in some mounting points but it usually won't require more than a 1/2" or 5/8" washer.

Guidelines for making your own related parts as well as installation instructions can be found in our new reference library (https://www.banskimotorsports.com/c4-ref-library.html)

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Jeff, did you ever get the info you were looking for? I apologize for not being more responsive. Feel free to email me through our website and I'll be happy to help.

Tom, do you have any general recommendations on the heim joints, useful life, maintenance, etc? I think I replaced mine once early on but they may be due again. The car sits outside in salty ocean air as well, but I have heim joint covers.

I should replace one of the rear toe links... the damned fuel line ate it up! I am sure it was the space option I selected...

Found it doing an alignment recently...

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There are a ton of options out there for sure. I've been using Aurora Bearing rod ends from the start and have no issues with them. I use just the regular Teflon lining but I've seen composite linings as well. I've also seen polymer rod end options from companies like IGUS, which might be something you want to look @ given the environment you describe.

Just make sure they have a similar load rating (radial static of 8200 lb) if possible. The polymer constructions might not be rated that high in the sizes used in this application.

Be wary of what you might find on line, I get email ALL the time from Chinese bearing mfr's telling me how great their products are and how they can save me money. Yeah, maybe initially but I've seen what's down that road.

With regards to sizes: the threads are 5/8"-18 UNF. Keep in mind that one side is a right handed thread and the other a left. Early on the frame side had a rod end with a 1/2" thru hole and a 5/8" thread so it would directly accommodate a 1/2" bolt without a reducer. Later on I changed that to be a 5/8" hole & thread on both sides with the frame side needing a reducer (it simplified inventory).

That's no big issue as a 5/8" to 1/2" reducer is readily available so you can make the swap easily.

I can get replacement rod ends for $17.50/pc, RH or LH. The 5/8" to 1/2" reducers are $2.50/pc.

If you need more info or have additional questions just let me know or shoot me an email.

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That sucks. I can certainly get you a replacement without an issue.

What "space option" did you select? I'm not sure I understand that.

The cone spacers... if I used the thick and thin in the wrong order, might have pushed the rod closer to the fuel line.