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DaleD | New buffer | ||
Senior Guru
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My wife bought me an orbital buffer for Christmas.
It's a Sears 7" single speed 3800 rpm orbital. I wanted a variable speed, but the only one Sears has is $220. Sears also has a 2800 rpm 10" buffer/polisher, but it's single speed and not orbital. So, do I take it back and get the 2800 rpm, or get a gift card and look elsewhere, or can I use this thing? Thanks. |
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Posted on: 2008/12/28 17:42
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Jeffvette | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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This is the one I have used and seen a lot of other people using.
http://www.tools-plus.com/porter-cable-7424.html |
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Posted on: 2008/12/28 19:36
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pianoguy | Re: New buffer | ||
Guru Emeritus
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Posted on: 2008/12/28 19:38
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biggrizzly | Re: New buffer | ||
2011 Memorial Day Car Show Winner!
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I have the Porter Cable buffer. It has been real good to my Vette. My boat will be seeing a lot of it this spring too.
I typically use it at the highest speed anyhow, but the variable speed is useful for applying product at low speed. |
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Posted on: 2008/12/28 20:49
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BillH | Re: New buffer | ||
The Stig Moderator
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Dale, I'd take it back and get the giftcard, look for another one. $220 is too much for the Sears especially when you can get the PorterCable that Jeff mentioned, higher quality, less money.
Somewhere I have the Meguiar's detailing video. The speeds they recommend are lower than 3800. You can get some good answers on their website, they have a forumn. |
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Posted on: 2008/12/29 14:52
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Danspeed1 | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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I would probably return it too and get the PC. The PC is an excellent tool to start out with because its very forgiving.
As for the speed on which to use it, there is no one speed fits all. Each product you use in conjunction with the buffer will have a suggested speed range. To optimize your correction capabilites, and prevent marring, scratching, or swirling of the surface you are working on it is important you choose the right pad, the right product, and work the product in using the correct speed range. I do not own a PC as I prefer a Rotary like the Makita. But I am beginning to realize that the PC has its benefits too especially when applying glazes and LSP's. Its def. on my list for this summer!!! DG |
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Posted on: 2008/12/29 15:06
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Schrade | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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Quote:
Their video's just UN-sold me on their stuff. 3 vids on paint care and polish products. Each one, including the 'Ultimate Compound', for heavier-than-swirl-scratches, is one-step. I'm throwin' the flag. One step, HUH? And wipe off with our 'Supreme Shine Microfiber'. Don't matter which product you're puttin' on; wipe afterward with Supreme Shine Microfiber'. I put $20 down here, that each one has wax in it, and it 'fills' the swirls and scratches, and it washes off with soap and water. I'm headed for their forum. Cover me. |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 5:48
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Danspeed1 | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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Quote:
I would agree that their "consumer" products are not as capable as their professional products. I did not see the vids you are referring to so I can't make a comment on their method of application; but with their professional products (ie M105) its possible using a rotary or PC to use the same compound in different stages with different pads to achieve both initial heavy swirl removing results; also using the product as an LSP for a swirl free final finish. Post the vids if you can, I am interested in taking a look at what they've got. DG |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 6:06
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Schrade | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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I started a thread over there:
Quote: I just saw the Meguiar's video for the product, that removes the 'heavier-than-swirl' scratches. I should have included in the post how waxes and oils will 'fill' scratches. Maybe they will understand the question as I posted it. Video MSDS is available only for registration. No can do again. From one of their stickys: Quote: Removing ScratchX using Meguiar's Supreme Shine Microfiber after working the product against the finish until the product has broken down, turned somewhat clear and begun to dissipate. NO NO NO. I wanna' see it washed after rubdown. I DO NOT WANT TO SEE SMOOTHED-OVER WAX-FILLED SCRATCHES AND SWIRLS. BULL. |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 6:25
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Danspeed1 | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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They have a pretty good rep when it comes to not using fillers, (oils in most cases are a necessary evil) and when they have products that use fillers they usually disclose that in their description. In any event it will be included in their MSDS; which aren't available yet because the product isn't out as far as I can tell.
Are you considering this product or is curiosity just getting to you? DG |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 6:38
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Danspeed1 | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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Hows your project coming along anyway?
DG |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 6:38
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Schrade | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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Quote:
Very true there Mr Dan. BUT, the true test of how good the product really works, is how well it looks after a soapy wash-off. I just bought a tube of some Meg product (polish, not coarse prep), and it really does look good, except for the scratches that were already in there. Yesterday, I picked up some PREMIUM BLEND Turtle Wax Polishing Compound. I cannot tell the difference between that and the Meguiar's wiped area. Only problem is the remaining scratches. So I really need to see how well the Meg's Ultimate Compound' does. SANS OILS AND WAXES. |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 6:45
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Schrade | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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Quote:
All of the 'acid-like' droplet etchings are out, and smooth, without cutting to the paint. There's fine swirling, which is also coming out slowly. Only problems are when I get a fresh scratch in the finish, and the source of the 'scratcher' is elusive!!! |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 6:51
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LT5, Marc Haibeck ECM module, AUTOMATIC!!! |
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Danspeed1 | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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Cool. I am glad you are making some progress.
Are you still working by hand? I usually do a Dawn wash after every step, and then pull it out into the sun to check my work. Dawns good because it cuts grease and oil, so I know once I wash her down that what i see is what I get. Some people like to do an Alcohol Wipedown and that removes everything. But I just don't feel comfortable wiping my paint down with alcohol. Somehow I feel like it leaves a residue that is going to react with the product I am using. If your going Meguiars your better off sticking with tride and true products for the time being. 82, 83, 84 all good stuff that will get the job done. Trying new stuff is good when you have money and time to waste on trial and error. I rather let the buffs spend their money and waste their time finding out about stuff and when I hear about something good, I just jump on the band wagon and give it a try. Keep me posted on how it turns out, I am very interested in seeing your results!! Have a good night.... Im out DG |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 6:55
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pianoguy | Re: New buffer | ||
Guru Emeritus
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Quote:
I started using Prep-Sol to wipe down before and after buffing - I was having some hazing problems on my black car, and that seemed to take care of it. |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 13:21
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1996 LT4 �Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them and you have their shoes.�- Jack Handey |
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BillH | Re: New buffer | ||
The Stig Moderator
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Quote:
Yep, The only Meguiars I use is their pro stuff. Same with 3M, Finesse-It. Most of the stuff I use, you can't get at PepBoys. The Meguiars video, I mentioned starts with sanding the car. I mentioned it to Dale because it also shows what speeds to run the buffers at. If you want wo run down to AutoZone and buy the latest scratch fillers, be my guest. You could also get wound up with Billy Mays' Simoniz instant scratch repair on tv. |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 15:41
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Schrade | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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Quote:
Danspeed1 wrote: Meguiar's forum guy responded; said to contact Meg's cust serv. Hmmm... So I called. Cliff's: There are no waxes or oils that 'fill' the scratches. No MSDS for me to gander and confirm. He also said the 'Ultimate Compound' grit does not break down as applied. ??? This don't jibe. I'll have to see for myself when it comes out. Anyway, I suggested he get R&D on a compound that chemically, NOT physically/abrasivley smooths the clear coat. He said they've already tried it, but the problem is controlling the chemical reaction; i. e., a neutralizer, to stop the reaction. I said "Make it an oxidizing compound, that neutralizes by atmospheric gas". No answer. Any CG chemists? There's your million $. |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 19:16
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Danspeed1 | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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Again, Consumer products are a waste of time for anyone doing anything more than applying a protective coat of wax on a Toyota Corolla.
Like Bill said, we've all gotten excellent results with stuff like Megs 84-80, and 4Star, and Menzerna. I don't forsee any miracle products coming out anytime soon. And the fact remains that "consumer" products are never going to have the same capabilities as "professional" products because most consumers barely even know how to "properly" wax a car. The purpose of the consumer products; "simplicity is best." If your looking for something better than oil and fake carnuba protectant on your finish, your going to need to walk away from the consumer line. You can use a harsher polish on Corvette Clear because corvette clear is very hard. But if I am finishing up a job that in which I am looking for perfection I will finish with something like Menzerna 106FF on a black pad. On GM clear, even in the sun, the process is almost useless. It does nothing for the naked eye. But its like an insurance coat and it removes any and all possible micro marring. I have a point! The point is that with products like this their is no reason to hunt hard for much else. DG |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 23:05
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1971 Chevelle SS (The Original) 1972 Chevelle SS 454 1995 Corvette Convertible 1996 Ford Explorer 2009 Cadillac CTS-v |
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Danspeed1 | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/corvette049.jpg[/IMG]
OK, this is soft Toyota paint, finished with nothing more than 1 pass using 4Star SMR, which would be considered slightly harsh for finishing purposes. This was done in a white pad. The LSP was Collinite 845. [IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/100_0851.jpg[/IMG] Had the swirls been worse I still could have used the SMR (although I would have jumped up to LLC) with an orange pad, and then after one pass finished up with SMR on a black finishing pad. DG |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 23:12
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1971 Chevelle SS (The Original) 1972 Chevelle SS 454 1995 Corvette Convertible 1996 Ford Explorer 2009 Cadillac CTS-v |
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Schrade | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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BG also said the clear is really hard. I'm seein' that...
The first pic looks good. No oil or wax still on it? The second pic looks TOO good. Gotta' be waxed? And about the colored pads... What's the significance? Thanks... |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 23:32
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LT5, Marc Haibeck ECM module, AUTOMATIC!!! |
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Danspeed1 | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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The Panels are actually close ups of a truck that I did.
The Swirling was moderate on the vehicle (first pic), not aweful like my vette (I don't know if you saw the pics of that) but not real light either. The second pic is after one pass using a Rotary at 1500RPM's... the polish I used was 4Star SMR. Most jobs are going to need multiple steps. For example... I would start with a light cutting compound on a orange pad at 1500-1800 RPM, and then I would move to a medium polish on a white pad, and maybe I would finish with a light polish like Menzerna SIP or 106FF on a black finishing pad. Finally I would hand rub a good wax (or sealant) like Collinite 845 or P21s (I love P21s) to protect the finish and bring up the gloss. You indirectly bring up a very, very good point. I cheated you! The second shot was taken after my LSP (Last Step Product) which was Collinite 845. 845 has lots of oil and a little bit of filler. So my finish may not have been perfect; I may just have covered up some of those swirls with the fillers and oils.. SO, you will have to take my word for it........ The finish was swirl free after I made just one pass using SMR on a white pad at 1500RPM regressing to 900RPM. Then after I washed the vehicle I checked my work and put the Collinite on. Like i said, you will have to take my word for it. The collinite would fill the swirls if their were any left over; that is true. None the less, it would not fill enough just waxing that it would look that good from the first to second pic. I wish I had something to show you after I polished a panel and washed it off but unfortunately I don't. Maybe in the future when I do another car I will be able to shoot that for ya. DG |
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Posted on: 2009/1/2 23:54
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1971 Chevelle SS (The Original) 1972 Chevelle SS 454 1995 Corvette Convertible 1996 Ford Explorer 2009 Cadillac CTS-v |
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BillH | Re: New buffer | ||
The Stig Moderator
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It's much easier with the racecars.
Racecar paint is 50/50. It has to look Ok at 50 feet at 50 miles per hour. When they come off the track, I spray them down with WD40, then a little Quick Detailer, Done. |
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Posted on: 2009/1/3 14:42
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bogus | Re: New buffer | ||
Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
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Another brilliant idea... moving this to detailing!
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Posted on: 2009/1/4 1:03
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Schrade | Re: New buffer | ||
Elite Guru
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Bogus doin' housecleanin'? Eviction notice for all the threads? See if you left DS's pics in c4chat...
Hahaha! Quote: It's much easier with the racecars. Wouldn't silicone give less air resistance? Looks like I won this bet hands down - sort of... Quote: I put $20 down here, that each one has wax in it, and it 'fills' the swirls and scratches, and it washes off with soap and water. |
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Posted on: 2009/1/4 13:40
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LT5, Marc Haibeck ECM module, AUTOMATIC!!! |
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BillH | Re: New buffer | ||
The Stig Moderator
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Quote:
It's much easier with the racecars. Wouldn't silicone give less air resistance? [/quote] Maybe, but I'm not too concerned with air resistance, too much other stuff to worry about at the track. WD40 removes the black tire marks. QD just makes it easier to clean the next time. |
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Posted on: 2009/1/4 14:17
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