bogus wrote:
John,

Speaking from experience - meaning, I have watched diffs getting rebuilt on TV and I don't wanna do any - get someone do it. There are tools and such that cost real money...

If it was me, I would be looking for a D44.

I would buy the following:

2 axle seals
2 axle bearings
1 pinion seal
2 containers of gm 80w90 fluid
2 units of gm posi friction plate modifier
1 tube permatex ultra copper

The above is what you need to likely fix you up.
Once on the bench, you can determine if you need any additional parts.
You may need to dress the worn axle end with a stone, and possibly need to install a thicker, selective snap ring depending on the wear.

If you need advice, just ask. I have done a few dozen of these.

jhammons01 wrote:
is there a write up for this one anywhere?

PeteK wrote:
I saw your other thread on CF. Most of the advice offered to you there is off base.Be careful who you listen to over there.

jhammons01 wrote:
Quote:

PeteK wrote:
I saw your other thread on CF. Most of the advice offered to you there is off base.Be careful who you listen to over there.

Yeah, but I didn't know you were here.....

I thought you were still active over there a lot.

I wish Agent 86 would come over here with his .pdf files

jhammons01 wrote:
Your Petek the transmission guy right?

Unless I got confused or someone took your screen name, then...yeah you and CC are the ones that I'd listen to.

bogus wrote:
ya!

I wonder if your transmission click is this noise from the diff? The faster the car goes, the noisier the diff gets?

CentralCoaster wrote:
Pete, how do you get those cursed C-clips off of the stub axles? I believe those come out, then the stub axles slide out.

I've taken diffs apart, but none with a posi before. I looked at the inside of mine and scratched my head then took it to the shop.

I did purchase a kit and bearings for the rebuild, but I don't recall if the side bearings were part of the kit or not. I had the ones on my workbench for 2 years before I threw them away finally.

John, I have the entire 84 service manual on CD, didn't I give you that already?

jhammons01 wrote:
No, I didn't get the CD....but I'd be happy to take one off of your hands...I'll even bring a blank CD.

If you look at that second photo, you see two bearings surrounding the stub axles. One has "41280" and the other has "Pat Pending" on it upside down.

I think those are the two I am after. What are they called?

PeteK wrote:

They are not bearings. They are the caps that hold the carrier to the case. Bearings cannot be viewed without removing the axles and axle seals.

jhammons01 wrote:
Quote:

PeteK wrote:

They are not bearings. They are the caps that hold the carrier to the case. Bearings cannot be viewed without removing the axles and axle seals.

ahh those hold that big black housing thing? Makes sense

So the bearings are inside the forging behind the seals? And this is where this snap ring is located?

It is making more and more sense. Thanks.

It seems that this is a little known topic....and from what I've seen, not a so uncommon issue that have many scrapping good rear ends. Or using this as an excuse to buy something they perceive they need.......*cough*Dana44*cough*

jhammons01 wrote:
No way....the tranny noise is some bearing that has gone south and when it is not loaded it makes that dreaded clanking sound.

PeteK wrote:
If you look in photo 2, you will see a vertical pin that goes straight up and down.Immediately on the sides of the pin is a small splined section. This spline is the inside edge of the axle.
If you look closely behind the spline, you will see the edge of the snap ring.
Removing this snap ring will allow the axle to slide out.
Then the seal in the side of the case is pried out to show the bearing that is pressed into the aluminum case.

jhammons01 wrote:
Quote:

PeteK wrote:
If you look in photo 2, you will see a vertical pin that goes straight up and down.Immediately on the sides of the pin is a small splined section. This spline is the inside edge of the axle.
If you look closely behind the spline, you will see the edge of the snap ring.
Removing this snap ring will allow the axle to slide out.
Then the seal in the side of the case is pried out to show the bearing that is pressed into the aluminum case.

I think I see that.....When you pointed out how to fix this last night...I think that was the reason I slept well last night.....

Sunday am I woke up around 4:45 and couldn't go back to sleep stressing.....

And this is not my Daily, it is just a fun car for me.....but I still stress what is out of control.

CC, Take a large washer and and place it on a rod of some sort. Now, take your finger and spin that washer on the rod....that is the sound that it makes. Sometimes it spins smooth but then other times it wobbles and makes that noise.....keep spinning the washer and you'll have the same random clinks and clanks that I get in 1st and 3rd.

PeteK wrote:

The clips are a bitch. I have a stout set of lock ring pliers to get the snap ring started.Then, I use a small, bent pick to get behind the snap ring. Then, I rotate the axle to "unwind" the snap ring from the groove. If you do it any other way, the snap ring breaks.
A pack of replacement selective snap rings run $70, last time I checked, so that would ruin the day.

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

PeteK wrote:

The clips are a bitch. I have a stout set of lock ring pliers to get the snap ring started.Then, I use a small, bent pick to get behind the snap ring. Then, I rotate the axle to "unwind" the snap ring from the groove. If you do it any other way, the snap ring breaks.
A pack of replacement selective snap rings run $70, last time I checked, so that would ruin the day.

I think this is the same question I asked you the first time I did a D36.. Those clips are a nightmare. Both of my snap ring plyers wouldn't fit. Had to buy another pair.

With the right plyers they come right out. Putting back in is harder.

-- Joe

CentralCoaster wrote:
John, you have email.

WVZR1 wrote:
And just what was "so pathetic" about my comments on the CF regarding your rear. I believe I summed up the replacement of the bearings and seals for the "short axles" quite efficiently for you. I kept it "very simple" for you. It's been explained to you here similarly.

Short axle bearings and "clutch packs" usually give "fits" the "first" go.


I actually "wandered" over here just to check some information that I was told was here in some sort of tech file regarding wheels and stumbled on this thread. I haven't been here for quite some time. Maybe I should hang around a little more!

jhammons01 wrote:
Sadly, you can grab that short shaft and wriggle it with your hand...the other one is tight...not that I'll allow it stay...."while your in there"......