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1963 through 1967 Corvette.

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vetteoz Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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SpectatorRacing wrote: I've never had any trouble. I can only assume it's because you removed the halfshafts and had nothing to resist turning the hub bolt.


He got lucky , I have had everything still connected and the the car on the ground with weight on the wheel and still not been able to crack the hub nut loose with 6ft of waterpipe on extention.
Had to take whole knuckle to mech and use air gun to loosen
Posted on: 2009/4/30 4:41
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jhammons01 Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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We took the brakes off first......then had to go back and replace the calipers in order to use the parking brake to from spinning while we broke loose those Torx screws.

Central Coaster had a breaker bar and used his leg to break those loose

So yeah, it seems to be a common thread when getting to that bearing.
Posted on: 2009/4/30 16:05
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SpectatorRacing Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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jhammons01 wrote:
We took the brakes off first......then had to go back and replace the calipers in order to use the parking brake to from spinning while we broke loose those Torx screws.

Central Coaster had a breaker bar and used his leg to break those loose

So yeah, it seems to be a common thread when getting to that bearing.


Yowzers. I change mine frequently so these days nothing's siezed or rusted, but I don't remember that much of a problem the first few times. I must be lucky.

I (way too) often do it right at the track with hand tools...

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jpg  bearing.JPG (0.00 KB)

Posted on: 2009/4/30 20:10
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BillH Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

SpectatorRacing wrote:

Yowzers. I change mine frequently so these days nothing's siezed or rusted, but I don't remember that much of a problem the first few times. I must be lucky.


My first bearing change was a little tough. I was in college, renting a house with no garage. The bearing on my 63 Z06 blew right as I got home. I barely had the bucks for the parts and had to do it outside, in the winter with the car in a snow bank. Burrrrrr.
Posted on: 2009/4/30 21:40
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anesthes Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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You need a lift

Resized Image
Posted on: 2009/4/30 21:43
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

vetteoz wrote:
Quote:
SpectatorRacing wrote: I've never had any trouble. I can only assume it's because you removed the halfshafts and had nothing to resist turning the hub bolt.


He got lucky , I have had everything still connected and the the car on the ground with weight on the wheel and still not been able to crack the hub nut loose with 6ft of waterpipe on extention.
Had to take whole knuckle to mech and use air gun to loosen


Wasn't luck. Bastard was rusted on there and tight like a mofo. It's called working out. You should try it

Hey Joe, quit showing off.

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/4/30 22:04
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anesthes Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:

Hey Joe, quit showing off.



I actually don't own that shop anymore. A year today is when I closed. Was there from 2000-2008, and the previous shop (smaller) was there from 1998-2000.

Right now I just have a gravel driveway and a farm. Hopefully be building a 24x24 garage here (home) soon. So in theory, right now, you probably have a better situation then me

-- Joe
Posted on: 2009/5/1 23:11
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gryz88 Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Matatk, this thread is great.

This summer I was planning on doing Differential Lube, All 4 Wheel Hubs, Halfshaft U-Joints and Shock Bushings. This thread will help me out so much, thanks for posting.

I'm actually diagnosing my nonworking VSS tomarrow morning!
Posted on: 2009/5/3 2:44
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Thanks for the posts, guys.

Joe - did the car sell or are you yanking the blower?

Gryz88 - welcome to the board! I hope it does help. That's the reason for posting all the information. Keep reading below because I have some more info that will help you.

OK, I got a chance to put everything back together yesterday. Here's a few pics, etc.

I had to finish up the poly bushings first since I got that cam bolt undone. Here's what it looks like disassembled:

Photobucket

You will reuse the cam spacer nuts (with the lip) on the kit. Also, there are two different sized sleeves in the new poly kit, so make sure to use the one with the bigger ID on the cam bolt (diff) end. Otherwise the lip from the washers won't fit in. I got that all together without a hitch, using the multiple scribe marks I made to retain my camber.

Now for reassembly:

First to go back in is the c-beam and driveshaft. Don't try to hang the diff and carrier first, it will not all fit together. Ask me how I know

As far as tightening the c-beam bolts, either do the trans bolts first or do one trans, one diff, one trans, one diff. I tried tightening the two diff bolts first and had a hell of a time getting the trans bolts in. Ugh. I think those damn beam plates from ZF Doc would have been worth it at this point! Lol.

Photobucket

Next to go in was the halfshafts. I found a neat way to get the u-joint straps and bolts in quicker was to use my cordless drill motor with a bendable attachment at the end with a nut driver attachment and 8 mm socket.

Photobucket

Once it's all snugged up, install the camber bars:

Photobucket

Next attach the spring to the differential. You should have written down the order of the spacers before you took it apart. Then use your jack to gently raise the spring on each end and reattach the spring bolts.

(sorry, kinda blurry)
Photobucket

Photobucket

Next comes the tie rod bar. Attach to the diff first, then the tie rod ends into their holes. I had to gently tap them with the deadblow, didn't take much force at all.

Photobucket

Photobucket

That's it for the suspension. Reattach the spare tire carrier and exhaust, and tires and you are done!

Photobucket

I also did my rear brake pads while everything was apart. Not a bad idea to check that out while you're in there.

I was only left with one extra part I know it has something to do with holding up the parking brake cable, but I don't know where it goes and I'm not gonna lose sleep over it. Lol.

Photobucket

Closing comments:

1) Use new cotter pins. Don't be cheap and potentially risk your safety or the safety of someone else.

2) Air tools are your friend. I wish I had them. Seriously. I would never want to do this job again without them.

3) I will never buy AC Delco greasable u-joints again. I wish I would have bought the spicers in the first place. And this is why:

Photobucket

They no longer use zerk fittings. Instead they use the needle style grease fitting. And it's on the end cap. Sounds ok, right? Well it's not. I tried to grease them and the quality was crap. The grease would not inject into the fitting (with the needle attachment I bought, too). So what I had to do was remove the fitting and inject the grease directly into the u-joint, then rescrew the fitting in. And good luck trying to grease the halfshaft u-joint in the knuckle:

Photobucket

Not gonna happen. I greased the one side before I installed it after I realized what was going on. With this one, I was able to unscrew the fitting, bend the needle and kinda stuff it in there. PIA. Not worth it. I don't expect these u-joints to last but a season and then they will unfortunately be replaced with spicer sealed units.

4) Do not buy a grease gun from advanced auto ("OEM brand"). It's a POS. Seriously. Crap. Spend the extra money and get a good one. I wish I had.

5) Torque everything to proper specs. There are a lot of different torque figures, so I just copied the page here:

Photobucket

This isn't everything, but a good starting point.

6) I will be getting new u-joint bolts next time around.

7) Have fun, and if the project gets too frustrating, stop for a while and go back.

Thanks for following along with me guys.

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/5/3 12:00
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Oh yeah. Took it for a test drive - acceleration was totally different. How it should have been for a corvette from the beginning. Speedometer appears to be working flawlessly.

I did notice a slight hum/whining from the trans area when I was accelerating. I have to check it out. Possible ideas running through my head are:
1) C beam not aligned properly (I've heard that can be a problem)?
2) front u-joint not installed properly or is bad??? I greased it?
3) Exhaust clamp is rattling since it's not tight around the pipe (oh well) and it's vibrating?
4) trans is low on fluid?

Any other ideas?

I'll post later if I find anything.
Posted on: 2009/5/3 12:04
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anesthes Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Thanks for the posts, guys.

Joe - did the car sell or are you yanking the blower?


Spoke to the kid last night. Should be gone by tomorrow afternoon.


Looked at a '67 firebird. Ford 9", subframes, solid body. May buy that this week.

-- Joe
Posted on: 2009/5/3 13:56
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RickAnthony Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Wow! Awesome to see all the pictures, glad to see my cheap u-joint press finally got some use!
Posted on: 2009/5/3 21:18
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

RickAnthony wrote:
Wow! Awesome to see all the pictures, glad to see my cheap u-joint press finally got some use!


I'll get it back to you eventually

It sounds as if the noise I have been hearing from under the console is the exhaust bracket that holds the front y pipe to the transmission. I had to loosen/remove it to get clearance and it won't secure 100%. I'll have to delve into that later when the exhaust is cool.

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/5/4 1:10
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Epimax Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Matt,
This is an excellent writeup! Thank you so much for taking the extra time not only to document everything the way you did with photos, but also provide such a detailed explanation of each step.This really gives someone like myself the confidence to tackle a job like this when the time comes!

OUTSTANDING!!
Posted on: 2009/5/4 10:14
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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No problem David, that's what it's here for. When I first started working on my vette a couple years back I was very novice when it came to most repairs. I relied on a lot of good pics and write-ups from the old CF. Now that I'm a little more experienced with some things I hope I can provide that type of support here on CG.

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/5/4 11:44
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Epimax Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
No problem David, that's what it's here for. When I first started working on my vette a couple years back I was very novice when it came to most repairs. I relied on a lot of good pics and write-ups from the old CF. Now that I'm a little more experienced with some things I hope I can provide that type of support here on CG.

Matthew


Yes Indeed!
That's my goal as well. To date, I've done a few things that I'm happy with..(heater core, lowering, and a few odds/ends) but nothing of this magnitude to date!
Posted on: 2009/5/4 11:54
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Update on my update. After crawling around under the car for something unrelated. I found out the vibration noise I was hearing was the unused air tube to the cat rattling around. Took that bad boy out and no more noise. Nice!

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/5/15 12:07
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jimmymack Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Thanks for a really great writeup and pictoral on your swap. About to do the same and was told to look this thread up by a friend. Your kindness in sharing this is well appreciated.
Posted on: 2009/5/19 19:31
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Thanks, Jimmy. Welcome to the site. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/5/19 21:36
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jhammons01 Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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bump so I don't lose this thread
Posted on: 2009/5/31 22:56
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

jhammons01 wrote:
bump so I don't lose this thread




It's not going anywhere! And you can always use the search to find it in the future.

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/6/1 2:00
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jhammons01 Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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^^that requires work
Posted on: 2009/6/1 16:47
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Livin_the_dream Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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After you made the switch did you notice your upshift light coming on and staying on since your now running higher RPM's
Posted on: 2009/6/8 0:05
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jhammons01 Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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At what point did you pull the C-Beam?? I am just now taking off the three bolts for the torsion bars
Posted on: 2009/6/8 1:34
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

Livin_the_dream wrote:
After you made the switch did you notice your upshift light coming on and staying on since your now running higher RPM's


I have an automatic so there is no shift light. Unfortunately I can't comment on that. And although it tachs up faster, I don't know if it's a significant difference. If your shift light is staying on you may have another issue.

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/6/8 11:48
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

jhammons01 wrote:
At what point did you pull the C-Beam?? I am just now taking off the three bolts for the torsion bars


I would remove the torsion bar completely, it's only 2 nuts and keeps the thing out of the way.

Are you changing the u-joints? Straps should have already been taken off by this point. If so, once the torsion bar is off you can loosen the bolts connecting the c-beam to the pumpkin now. Make sure you support the trans and c-beam (I left mine hanging on the brake cable temporarily, not recommended. Your choice if you want to take the driveshaft out now or after you drop the pumpkin. (I did mine after) You can then support the pumpkin on a jack and remove the two bolts holding that in and lower it down.

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/6/8 11:55
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Livin_the_dream Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Quote:

Livin_the_dream wrote:
After you made the switch did you notice your upshift light coming on and staying on since your now running higher RPM's


I have an automatic so there is no shift light. Unfortunately I can't comment on that. And although it tachs up faster, I don't know if it's a significant difference. If your shift light is staying on you may have another issue.

Matthew

I have an Auto too but I have an upshift for best economy lite that wants to stay on above 65
Kevin
Posted on: 2009/6/8 12:06
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

Livin_the_dream wrote:

I have an Auto too but I have an upshift for best economy lite that wants to stay on above 65
Kevin


Never knew that. I think they eliminated it by 89? I'd have to check the FSM to be sure. I know I don't have it on mine (or it's burnt out).

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/6/9 0:52
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MK 82 Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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I agree on the Beam Plates. I would like to have them but $200 is ridiculous.
Posted on: 2009/6/9 1:32
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MK 82 Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Also, I remember you talking about buying nuts and bolts at Home Depot. Those are usually not hardened. I would not use less than Grade 5.

Thanks for taking the time.

What pumpkin ratio did you put in. I have toyed with the idea of the 4:10 in my 96 LT4.
Posted on: 2009/6/9 2:15
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joeld Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

Livin_the_dream wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Quote:

Livin_the_dream wrote:
After you made the switch did you notice your upshift light coming on and staying on since your now running higher RPM's


I have an automatic so there is no shift light. Unfortunately I can't comment on that. And although it tachs up faster, I don't know if it's a significant difference. If your shift light is staying on you may have another issue.

Matthew

I have an Auto too but I have an upshift for best economy lite that wants to stay on above 65
Kevin


Hey Mat, I was just trying to catch up on some threads. Nice job you did there!
Also, just for your info the 89's do have a up-shift light for the auto's also. Page 2-12 of Owners Manual.

Joel
Posted on: 2009/6/9 17:27
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

DropTopCE wrote:
Also, I remember you talking about buying nuts and bolts at Home Depot. Those are usually not hardened. I would not use less than Grade 5.

Thanks for taking the time.

What pumpkin ratio did you put in. I have toyed with the idea of the 4:10 in my 96 LT4.


I don't remember the specific grade I used, but it was at least grade 5. I put in stock 3.07s from a 95. Too much more wouldn't do me well. My buddy has 4.10s in his cammed/headed 95 and he thinks they might be a little too tall but said they're fun.

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/6/10 1:10
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

joeld wrote:

Hey Mat, I was just trying to catch up on some threads. Nice job you did there!
Also, just for your info the 89's do have a up-shift light for the auto's also. Page 2-12 of Owners Manual.

Joel


Thanks, Joel. My shift light must be burnt out. I'm glad, too, because I had that in my 88 blazer and it was a PIA.

Edit:

OK, I looked into this and as far as I can tell I don't 89s don't have the automatic trans shift light. Mine only has the 1-4 shift light for the ZF trans. The owners manual does not make reference to the automatic trans having a shift light, either. Perhaps there were some leftover 88 dashes that got stuck in the early 89s? Joel - does yours have this light? Anyone care to comment?

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/6/10 1:12
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Pics below showing different dashes/shift lights.

Matthew

Attach file:



jpg  dash rpm 1984.JPG (0.00 KB)


jpg  dash rpm 1985.JPG (0.00 KB)


jpg  dash rpm 1986.JPG (0.00 KB)


jpg  dash rpm 1987 1988.JPG (0.00 KB)


jpg  dash rpm 1989.JPG (0.00 KB)

Posted on: 2009/6/10 2:19
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Josh Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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You can get to the 8 MM bolts for the U-joint straps from outside the car. If you take off the wheel and support the car on the frame, the rear suspension will droop a bit. If you rotate the rear end, as the U-joint bolt reaches about 1 O'clock you can use a long extension and a deep well 1/4 inch drive 8 MM socket to get the bolt. I have a cordless impact gun that I use to swap tires at the track, and I usually use it for those bolts. I just reduce it down to 3/8, use a 20 inch 3/8 extension, reduce to 1/4, and finish off with a 1/4 inch drive 8 MM deep well. Do one at at time, and spin the axles to get to the next bolt. With the cordless impact gun, I usually don't have to put the car in gear or apply the parking brake, but sometimes I do if the bolts are stubborn. Regardless, that is the easies method I've found for those bolts.

I made my own beam plates the last time I had the C-beam out. I bought some 1/4 inch steel plate strips from Lowes and used my electric angle grinder to cut them into shape. I drilled some holes in the plates and them used the factory bolts and nuts to bolt the plates to the beam. I took the whole deal to an exhaust shop by my house and asked them to weld the factory nuts to the plates I made. Since everything was bolted together when they welded the nuts on, I didn't have any problems installing the new plates because everything was already located. They worked great, and they were worth the time/trouble just based on the fact that I can do the C-beam bolts now without getting a wrench to the top side. I can hit them with my electric impact and have them in and out in a couple minutes.
Posted on: 2009/6/10 13:38
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jhammons01 Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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^^Yup...I use three extensions connected together to reach in there.

I also use my Cordless drill once the bolt is broken loose.
Posted on: 2009/6/10 13:55
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Matatk Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!)
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Quote:

Josh wrote:

I made my own beam plates the last time I had the C-beam out. I bought some 1/4 inch steel plate strips from Lowes and used my electric angle grinder to cut them into shape. I drilled some holes in the plates and them used the factory bolts and nuts to bolt the plates to the beam. I took the whole deal to an exhaust shop by my house and asked them to weld the factory nuts to the plates I made. Since everything was bolted together when they welded the nuts on, I didn't have any problems installing the new plates because everything was already located. They worked great, and they were worth the time/trouble just based on the fact that I can do the C-beam bolts now without getting a wrench to the top side. I can hit them with my electric impact and have them in and out in a couple minutes.


That's a great idea. A lot better than paying $200!

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/6/10 15:06
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