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Print in friendly format Send this term to a friend  Saw Blades
The wheel style used for most of the C4s existence.

The early saw blades face forward. This means they catch air from the outside and drag it insi...
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Re: Planning next project

Subject: Re: Planning next project
by hcbph on 2016/12/30 11:45:24

Here's my thoughts. Make 2 bars that are drilled with a pair of holes that match the hub lugs, bar needs to be at least as wide as the wheels. Drill a hole in each end big enough to thread a line through. Make a pair of stands that will fit under the knuckle and hold them at a defined height from the garage floor once the spring is unhooked.
Car on jack stands, wheels off, bolt the bars onto the hubs, align horizontal and set the parking brake with the stands under the knuckles after removing the spring on one side.
Tie on the plumb bobs, mark on the floor one side where they align. Replace the one camber arm with the one from the Banski kit, align the plumb bobs back to the marks on the floor. That should do that on one side, hook back up the spring and go onto the other side.
Now do the same on the other side. After the camber rod is done, replace the toe rod again aligning the marks from the plumb bobs. Hook the spring back up on that side and go back to the first side and do the toe rod.

If it works out correctly, I think I can have the camber rods and toe rods replaced and fairly close to aligned so I can get it into an alignment shop to get a 4 wheel alignment done.

I've done the swaybar bushings (1 left to do), this will replace all the other things that wear there (having already done the trailing arms) and should hopefully tighten up everything in the rear end.

That's my thoughts on how to do it. Seems logical to me and hopefully get everything close. If anyone has a better plan or improvement on it, I'm all ears.

Happy New Years everyone.

Paul
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