| Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!) |
Subject: Re: Pumpkin swap/u-joints/wheel bearings/suspension junk (PICS!) by Matatk on 2009/4/26 16:24:15 Quote:
Pete, you are the man. I read your post (I'm an early bird) and already went out, removed both wheel bearings and cleaned off the anti-seize and reinstalled. Whole process went a ton quicker than the first time  Pete, since you're my online guidebook with my F ups, can you tell me if I need a special tool to press out/remove the tailshaft housing seal and that metal sleeve that goes in behind it??? I also decided to work on the pumpkin and batwing since I was out there. I figured it'd be a good time to swap over the poly bushings from the stock.  What a PIA. I mean, it really sucked the way I was trying to do it. I originally tried to use the c-clamp press I used for the u-joints. Not happening. I was wrenching on that thing like a mofo but those bushings are in there good. They must use an enormous press to get them in. I also tried to cut the part of the sleeve I did get pressed out. Good luck. Apparently GM found the last cache of Kryptonite left and used that to fabricate the sleeves. Ugh.  I do not recommend that method unless you've got a huge press of your own. What I did instead it a lot simpler, although it makes a huge mess. You aren't reusing the stock bushings, so it's ok to destroy them. Get out your drill index and select a small/medium bit to make about 8 pilot holes. Go around the bushing in a clock-like pattern. Once you have the pilots drilled, select the biggest bit you have and ream out the holes nice and good. It's messy and smelly, but you'll see the bushing begin to disintegrate. Then you can pop it out. And don't worry about nicking the inside sleeve on the batwing because you have to remove it anyway to put in the polys. That's the next step.  Once the bushing it out, carefully cut the inside of the sleeve with several relief cuts. Pry them with a screwdriver and pop it out.  You should be left with this:  I made a couple boo boos while triming out the sleeve but nothing too deep, just cosmetic. But be careful not to get too saw happy. After the sleeve was out, I lightly coated the new polys ID and OD with the supplied grease along with the new bolt sleeve OD and the ID of the batwing bushing hole.  I then pressed them together by hand and used a soft dead blow hammer to nudge it the last bit. I noticed they pop out a little, but I think that it will snug up once bolted to the car.  The grease is pretty sticky, I don't think it will come off easily. It didn't come off my hands easily when I washed up. Once the bushings were in I decided to assemble the whole package. I used an old bucket to hold the carrier up while I worked on it. That actually worked well. I then put the bead of the Right Stuff around the carrier and then set the batwing on it.  I might have used slightly too much gasket material, but I kept it towards the outside so it would ooze out more than in. I then placed the batwing on and torqued the bolts to 23 ft lbs.  You might notice I replaced a few of the smaller bolts. This is because when I took the old diff off I snapped one of them so I figured it was a good idea to replace them. I'm not 100% certain but I think they are 8x1.25x30mm. I'll have to double check the bag. Ok, here's my second question of the day: I've read you should fill the diff while on the car to get the right level. I figure it's easier to do it on the ground. Comments? Thanks everyone for the help. Matthew |
