All Posts (Dale1990)
Re: Digispark |
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Senior Guru
 
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
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When I get around to needing a new engine, I'm probably going go the LS1 route:
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/default.aspx sequential-FI, throttle-by-wire, COP, all the neat modern stuff.
Posted on: 2009/6/14 23:45
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Re: The 110 freeway almost killed me... |
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In the event you have to replace the M/C, a decent reman should be fine. So far I've been thru 3 good reman'ed M/Cs and none of them had an issue - bad advice and troubleshooting had me changing things that were not broken (long story).
My current is a reman from O'reilly with a bias spring upgrade. Works perfectly with about 20k on it so far.
Posted on: 2009/6/9 0:38
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Re: More clutch woes... |
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Senior Guru
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Quote:
Probably 2k maybe up to 2.5k - like I said, the throttle is a biatch to control off-idle normally much less trying to heel-toe. The clutch slipped but the car started moving - quite quickly I might add. Just as a point of note, this car can launch from a normal stop in 3rd with very little difficulty or slipping. I paid more attention to the engagement point this time and it appears to be the same as the 90 which works fine. What is the reasoning behind blaming the shifting difficulty on a slipping clutch? I don't follow this one. Quote:
I'll check around locally and see who has a decent slave. I'd rather exhaust other options before dropping the transmission. Dad and I did this one before and I would rather not do it again.
Posted on: 2009/6/8 2:20
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Re: More clutch woes... |
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I flushed out the old black fluid and there is no change. It still doesn't like to shift - down shifting is almost impossible.
I did the clutch test procedure bogus mentioned and the car didn't die. I may have been hitting the gas a little hard, tho, since I'm not used to driving this car. The throttle is really touchy and a PITA to drive - 58mm on a SR'ed 383. It seems like the hydraulics are the most likely problem. How do I tell if it is the Master or Slave that is kaput? When I was flushing, I took off the slave and I didn't see any fluid on or near the piston. Thanks!
Posted on: 2009/6/7 22:43
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Re: More clutch woes... |
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Failing hydraulics seem to be a common theme on C4s so I wouldn't be surprised if that was the case. I might have mis-spoke on the engagement points - it doesn't 'feel' any different than normal.
How would I test the clutch condition? I doubt the disc is worn - I haven't noticed any slipping. Testing the hydraulics might be a good thing.
Posted on: 2009/5/31 19:37
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Re: More clutch woes... |
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After doing some Googling, it seems water would be the most likely cause. The car hasn't been used as a U-boat so I guess it came from condensation. Seems like a lot of water for that but I haven't driven it a long time and we've had some very damp weather this year.
I dumped the white stuff out and put in some fresh gear oil. I'm tired of the leaking so I used non-synthetic. I took it for a spin and it seems a bit better but the original problem is still here. I still have trouble engaging gears. 1st has issues when starting from a stop. 3rd is not too happy, either. When downshifting, the problem exists in all gears. Not every shift has a problem but it happens far too often.
Posted on: 2009/5/31 9:24
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Re: More clutch woes... |
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Sorry it took so long to come back to this.
When I have it in gear with the clutch in it doesn't creep. It appears to start engaging an inch or two off the floor (didn't pay that close attention). I put her in the air to check the fluid levels since it does leak a little. The fluid in the manual side was white. It was Mobil 1 gear oil when it went in maybe 2 years ago. This was checked about 10 mins after I drove around in my driveway - no long trips. I'm guessing white gear oil is not normal.  What could be doing that and how do I fix it?Thanks!
Posted on: 2009/5/30 16:47
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Re: More clutch woes... |
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Gear oil and OD fluid were changed in the last 10k or so but I'll check the level - I didn't notice any leaks but better safe than sorry.
The clutch has been changed once before we got the car at ~35k miles. We had to replace the TOB once since then and the disc and FW looked fine at the time. I'll try bleeding/flushing the clutch hydraulics in the next day or so - maybe I'll get lucky for once . The brakes need a flushing too so I can get the big jug of fluid... yay.Thanks!
Posted on: 2009/4/25 18:24
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More clutch woes... |
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Senior Guru
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I finally got the hydraulics on the 90 straightened out thanks to everybody here (and a Phoenix Injector
) and now the 86 is acting up.The problem seems to be very similar. I am having trouble getting the shifter to engage gears. 3rd is the worst but the others are not far behind. Am I back to another hydraulic issue again or should I be looking at the linkage first? The car only has 50k miles on it although it did have a hard life before Dad bought it. The clutch fluid is black as night just like the 90 was... going to have add that to the standard maint. schedule. Do you think just doing a flush might bring it back? Thanks all!
Posted on: 2009/4/25 14:05
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Re: L98, they run hot. |
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What is the coolant temp under the same circumstances?
There is no reason a stockish Vette should be running that warm while at freeway speeds. When did you last flush the coolant? Clean between the radiator and condenser? Check the condition of all of the coolant lines. The fan switch, chip and thermo will do nothing more than mask the problem (if they do anything) and lighten your wallet. Both my 90 (350) and Dad's 86 (383) run under 200 on the highway with completely stock cooling systems - no chips, stock thermo and fan switches.
Posted on: 2009/4/4 18:41
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Re: Corvette Fever Tests Corvettes In AeroDyn's Wind Tunnel |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
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Quote:
I have a Vert so the X-brace is my rub strip. My car is lowered with the usual lowering wedges and bolts but there are quite a few poorly designed speed bumps and driveway entrances around here.I am interested in seeing how the aero would be improved by a pan. It seems to be a popular addition to some of the modern sports cars. For my street car it is probably pointless but it sounds like a fun project to play with.
Posted on: 2009/4/3 0:34
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Re: Corvette Fever Tests Corvettes In AeroDyn's Wind Tunnel |
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By "rules" I assume you mean racing class rules... hopefully not DOT/legal rules against it.
Do the C5/6s run with belly pans? I've never had the chance to peek under one in stock form. It would also be nice to have a sacrificial piece to take the hits from the scraping and occasional piece of road debris. Hmm... this might make an interesting little project. EDIT: I remember reading that the GT-R runs a belly pan in some form. I guess they felt it helps.
Posted on: 2009/4/2 22:12
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Re: Corvette Fever Tests Corvettes In AeroDyn's Wind Tunnel |
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I remember reading in All Corvettes are Red (ACAR) that Hill wanted his guys to shoot for .32 or .33 for Cd on the C5 - it looks like they got pretty darn close.
There was one passage in that book that always puzzled me. In the early aero testing of the C5 body, they (somehow) mated it to a C4 chassis since they did not have a C5 version ready at the time. One of the aero guys was was quoted as saying the C4 had a very "dirty" undercarriage compared to the C5. If I remember correctly with the C5/4 hybrid, the Cd was .35-.36 or something and it dropped to the above #s when they got the production chassis tested. Would there be any benefit to running a lower tray on our cars like many of the other modern sports cars? Would it drop the Cd? What difference would that make in driving characteristics?
Posted on: 2009/4/2 19:28
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Re: The best $100 spent on the Vette? |
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ZR1 gauge cluster.
Posted on: 2009/4/2 18:20
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Re: Suspension bushing opinions? |
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Quote:
How does this affect the ride quality for a primarily street-driven car?
Posted on: 2009/3/31 13:17
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Re: 90 ZF6 with shifting problems |
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I might be able to reuse the existing fittings and get some tubing and couplers from McMaster-Carr for ~$20. Hmm...
Posted on: 2009/3/21 17:29
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Re: 90 ZF6 with shifting problems |
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No luck. Napa, Bumper2Bumper and the local dealer were all stumped.
GM has been using these kinds of fittings (metric ISO/bubble flare) since the early 80's and no one carries the friggin fittings or lines. This pisses me off. I went thru the same hassle when I lost a brake line on my 86 Firebird. Unless anyone has a better (cheaper) idea, it looks like I'll have to order the whole line for $100 instead of $10 worth of parts. Thanks all!
Posted on: 2009/3/21 17:20
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Re: 90 ZF6 with shifting problems |
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Well, I got the new parts in from Napa. The slave was the cast piece so all is well in that department. When i pulled off the slave, there was a nice little puddle of brake fluid in the boot - I guess that solves that mystery
New problem... While I was trying to remove the line from the slave, the fitting twisted off.  I hate corrosion.There is still plenty of good hard line to splice into but does anyone know the fitting specs? I've tried AutoZone and O'reilly today and they do not have any brake line with the right fittings. I'll try to hit Napa and Bumper/Bumper tomorrow but if anyone has any bright ideas, I could sure use 'em Thanks!
Posted on: 2009/3/21 0:33
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Re: Brake bias spring |
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Quote:
I can see how there would be a significant difference in that case - you went way outside the stock specs. On my car, all I did was upgrade to J55s and refresh the rest of the parts - Hawk pads, new stock rotors, new (rebuilt) hydraulics. The BB spring was done last and all by itself, tho. I can't say there was a night and day difference in braking during spirited DD duty with the occasional panic stop. If I tracked the car, maybe I would have noticed. There is a little more dusting on the rear wheels.
Posted on: 2009/3/13 13:54
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Re: 90 ZF6 with shifting problems |
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Sweet! Thanks!
I ordered a master and slave from the local Napa. Unfortunately they are coming from Texas so they probably won't be in until early next week. I can't tell if the MC is leaking but with the mileage and the terrible looking fluid I'm guessing it's in my best interest to replace them both now rather than having to do this again in a year.
Posted on: 2009/3/13 13:17
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Re: 90 ZF6 with shifting problems |
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Thanks for all the advice everybody!!
Next question, are there other brands that use the cast piece? Locally I have BrakeBest (Wagner?) and Perfection (AdvanceAuto). I noticed thepartslady on ebay supposedly has the cast version for $70 but I was hoping to get someone local if possible. Thanks! And, I'll crawl under the dash in the AM to check if the MC is leaking.
Posted on: 2009/3/13 1:36
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Re: 90 ZF6 with shifting problems |
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FYI: The current clutch/PP/TOB have about 50k on 'em. I bought the kit from Carolina Clutch I think. Standard Luk OE replacement. AFAIK nothing is different than stock.
The increased notchy-ness is new as is the jerking trying to get it into gear.
Posted on: 2009/3/12 23:55
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Re: 90 ZF6 with shifting problems |
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Quote:
I was in a parking lot waiting for traffic to clear. I had the clutch engaged and tranny in neutral for a bit and when the traffic cleared I put her in first and the car jerked forward with the pedal still to the floor. For the record, this transmission has never shifted particularly smoothly. I've always had somewhat notchy shifts and a little difficulty with 3rd gear (it feels "funny" too).
Posted on: 2009/3/12 23:17
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Re: 90 ZF6 with shifting problems |
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Quote:
Clutch engagement feels about right, yet. If it is lower , it is not by much. I checked the fluid level at the MC and it is a little low but not out yet. The fluid also looks terrible - very black probably OE. I should have flushed that out some time ago I guess. I thought the 91+ changed the hyd. line too and they wouldn't work. If they do work than I should be able to find one of those w/o to much difficulty. Matatk: Funny, I looked over that FAQ a few days ago and completely missed Q 4 which pretty much describes my problem - except I do not have clutch shudder.
Posted on: 2009/3/12 23:11
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Re: Brake bias spring |
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That's interesting. I really didn't notice much of a difference when I installed mine.
Posted on: 2009/3/12 22:58
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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90 ZF6 with shifting problems |
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1990 L98 Vert ZF6 165k miles
I've been having a tough time shifting lately. The trans will often not want to go into gear and when it does, it is very rough. When sitting at a light (pedal pressed) and shifting into first, the car will roll forward as it engages the gear. If the car is slowly rolling backwards and I shift into gear (pedal pressed) the car will buck a little To me, this sounds like a hydraulic problem. Any other ideas? If that diagnosis makes sense, where can I find a new/rebuilt slave? The masters seem to be easy to find but none of the local parts guys can order the slave. Thanks for the help!
Posted on: 2009/3/12 22:45
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Re: Adhesive/location for lowering wedges |
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I did trim the brackets but maybe I did not trim them enough
 I used your write-up as the guide but I may have made a mistake somewhere. I'll double check the fit when I start ripping everything apart.I need to head to HD and/or Lowes today anyway so I'll take a look. I finally get an extended weekend off so my plan was to tear into this thing and hopefully fix it. Should the wedges be clamped during the curing/hardening or should they just be taped in place? I don't have much experience with epoxies. Any suggestions on what to use to remove the old epoxy from the spring Thanks
Posted on: 2008/10/23 17:06
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Adhesive/location for lowering wedges |
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After less than a year, the Loctite epoxy holding my lowering wedges to the spring failed and one of the wedges is now off kilter - I'm guessing this is not good.
Now the questions... What type/brand of epoxy would be better? Where can I get it? Also, I have seen that others are gluing the wedge to the frame. I would guess this would make a better bond but how would the spring take to all the weight on the pointy end of the wedge? Is this a better option? One thing to keep in mind is that this spring (and the car it is attached to ) has 163k miles on it.
Posted on: 2008/10/23 15:57
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