All Posts (Dale1990)
Re: LS7 in a C4 - A brain storming session |
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I'd love to see this project go forward! I've recently picked up an 06 Z06 and would love to have that engine in my 90. The ZF gearing is very close to the T56 so it would be just about as much fun on the street with the right rear. A C4 and an LS7 would be the best of both worlds. The feel of the 427 can't be beat for a stock engine. So much torque and so smooth up to 7k.
Best of luck!
Posted on: 2011/4/1 20:55
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Re: Reinstalled distributer and engine won't start |
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I do have an adapter and non-stock PROM in the ECM but I haven't touched it in years. I suppose it could have worked loose. I'm going to go over the FSM chart dealing with no SES light and see where that leads. I'm hoping for just a blown bulb but who knows - this car is cursed.
The distributor is a new reman part and the coil is new as well. It's a small cap variety with EFI Connection wiring - never tested unfortunately. I'm going to go back over those wires and see if something is amiss there as well. Thanks!
Posted on: 2011/1/18 13:46
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Re: Reinstalled distributer and engine won't start |
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I finally got back to working on this thing.
I replaced the plug wires since the old ones wouldn't lock onto the cap. Now the car at least runs by itself with the EST disconnected. I managed to get the timing to 6* BTDC but the engine is idling at 400-500RPM and it's very rough. If I plug in the EST it will only idle for a second or two and then die. I'm also not getting an SES light anymore. I hope it's just the bulb.
Posted on: 2011/1/16 19:04
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Re: Reinstalled distributer and engine won't start |
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I hooked all of the wires back up and I'm sure it matches the pic above this time. The car still won't start or run w/o holding the gas.
When it does start it runs pretty much the same as before - missing, rough and won't idle. After 20ish seconds of running, some of the header pipes are cool to the touch (5 & 7 especially) and others hot enough to sizzle when touched. Even though I haven't been able to get a timing light on it to bring it to 6*, it should still start, right? It looks "close" to where it was as best as I can eyeball it. I originally took everything apart to put in new valve springs/seals. Does this sound like I maybe messed up when setting the lifter preload? Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/12/29 1:47
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Re: Reinstalled distributer and engine won't start |
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Thanks for the responses, all! Sorry it took so long to get back to this but I've been playing with my other car and pushed this off.
I turned the engine over to #1 TDC on the compression stroke - I felt the pressure from the spark plug hole as I turned the crank to 0* according to the timing tab. When I removed the dist cap, the rotor was already pointing at the #1 post (according to the above pic). Maybe I did have it set right? I'm going to redo the plug wiring - maybe I messed that up. Hopefully, I can get to it this evening. Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/12/28 21:26
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Reinstalled distributer and engine won't start |
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I finally got the heads and intake back on the 86 and now it won't start. I'm pretty sure I borked the distributer reinstall and it's off a few teeth. The car will start with my foot on the gas but it runs terribly. I'm guessing timing because of the backfiring and the uneven header pipe temps - after 2-5secs some are hotter than heck and others are cool. I did make drawings when I pulled it apart but I must have did something dumb when I had everything apart.
Assuming I completely hosed the dist. reinstall, what's the easiest way to get it put back in the right position so I can at least get it running long enough to get a timing light on it? Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/12/16 18:15
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Re: LT1 headers? |
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If you plan on driving the car quite a bit and have the cash, I'd suggest going with stainless steel rather than the regular steel with coating variety. The coating will take a serious beating from road debris and eventually fail letting the steel underneath rust away.
I've got about 50k miles on my Hookers (L98) and they look pretty bad underneath. It won't be long before I get holes in the lower tubes.
Posted on: 2010/11/21 23:44
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Re: Aftermarket IP |
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If the cluster on the 86 goes south I'd vote for that as a replacement.
I don't think I want the one that includes a clock, though.
Posted on: 2010/11/21 23:33
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Re: Help with CHMSL (Center High Mount Stop Lamp?) to LED |
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Here's a quick shot of the underside on an 86 - iPhone pic so it ain't great quality. I circled the Torx screws in blue. My 90 is a Vert so I don't have any pics of that year.
Attach file:  photo.JPG (42.31 KB)
Posted on: 2010/11/21 17:56
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Re: does lowering any amount and nothing else make for a better handling Vette? |
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Quote:
I replaced these either last year or the year before if I recall. New Bilstein sport shocks. They have maybe 10k on them by now but he ride has not changed noticeably.
Posted on: 2010/11/16 18:39
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Re: does lowering any amount and nothing else make for a better handling Vette? |
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Quote:
There's quite a few things that I don't like about it. The only car I have to compare it to is an 86 w/ Z51, aftermarket shocks (can't remember the brand) and less than 60k miles. By comparison, the 90 feels very loose and seems to wallow - not unexpected for 180k miles I suppose. It doesn't respond well at all to bumps. The body seems to jump up too far (like it overreacts) then drop back quickly and settle almost immediately - very disconcerting. I could provide a better comparison when I get the 86 back on the road this weekend, hopefully. The poly squeaks but it isn't bad enough to bother me over the rest of the rattles, creaks and buzzes in the car (exhaust is rubbing on the x-brace). As to the order of mods, I had a diff seal start leaking and it dissolved the rear bushings. Since I also had a ujoint on its way out at the same time I decided to just get the kit and do the whole rear end. When I did the lowering (purely for aesthetics) it was only a few more bolts to get to the front bushings and I already had the shop press. This isn't really at the top of my fix-it list so I am not planning on working on it anytime soon.
Posted on: 2010/11/16 14:02
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Re: does lowering any amount and nothing else make for a better handling Vette? |
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Quote:
I don't want to hijack but... The front and rear control arm bushings on my car are poly - I used the whole kit from Energy Suspension sans the steering rack bushing. Sway bar bushings and endlinks are still OE rubber circa '90. I'm contemplating getting NOS replacement arms from Corvette Recycling for the front and going Banski for the rear. Shocks are new Bilsteins, too. I flat out do not like the way the car handles right now. I haven't stuck my head under the car to check out the wedges lately but I wouldn't be shocked if they became unglued, too.
Posted on: 2010/11/16 4:53
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Re: does lowering any amount and nothing else make for a better handling Vette? |
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I lowered my 90 with longer bolts in the rear and trimming of the front rubber mounting pads with wedges. I wish I hadn't. The ride quality suffered, I have problems with speed bumps and the handling on poor roads is significantly worse. Some of that is probably from the poly bushings I also installed, though.
If I were to do it over again I would have just found a matched set of springs, sway bars and shocks and called it a day.
Posted on: 2010/11/15 14:03
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Re: Clutch slave bolt holes stripped |
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I'll give that shot. Thanks all!
Posted on: 2010/11/8 20:42
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Re: Clutch slave bolt holes stripped |
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Quote:
Would I need to drill the holes in the housing to tap them to the next size? I'm not sure there is enough room to get a drill in there.
Posted on: 2010/11/6 20:30
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Clutch slave bolt holes stripped |
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86 4+3
It looks as though some combination of dumbness between myself and a previous owner has left me with both of the clutch slave cylinder bolt holes stripped out. I guess that explains the weird shifting. Is there a way to fix this w/o removing the transmission? Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/11/6 19:52
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Re: Help 86 coupe |
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86 is MAF only.
I'd start by checking that it is plugged in properly and that there is no corrosion on the terminals. After that, checking the MAF relays would be my next step. If you have a factory service manual, I believe there are diagnostic charts for checking the relays.
Posted on: 2010/11/3 13:41
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Re: Third fuel filter in 3 mos. |
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Quote:
Because the car would not start/run until I changed it. Plugged may not be the right word but there was definitely something wrong with the filter.
Posted on: 2010/10/24 16:40
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Re: Third fuel filter in 3 mos. |
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Well, I drained the tank and cleaned it out. There was a little sediment in the tank but not very much. No big rust flakes or blobs of anything. The interior is in very good shape. If I had to guess I'd say maybe 1/8 teaspoon of stuff - probably less. Everything is cleaned out and put back together.
I'm wondering if I got one bad tank of gas and the three filters grabbed most of the debris and only a small amount was left. I also tried using gas tank repair epoxy to glue the plastic tray back in but the epoxy had very little adhesive quality to it and it set up so fast that I couldn't really work with it. I pulled the tray out and will go with out - just have to remember to keep the tank full-ish for the next autocross. Hopefully this is the end of this battle and I can move on to the next one. Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/10/22 0:07
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Re: Third fuel filter in 3 mos. |
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In-tank wiring is new.
I haven't changed the relay although I suppose I could swap it with one of the others but there is no way to test if that solved anything.
Posted on: 2010/10/21 3:17
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Re: Third fuel filter in 3 mos. |
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It's happened with different pumps - each a different brand but still POS auto store pumps. The next one will be a Walbro from Racetronix - slightly more $ for a better package.
Also, each time I changed the filters I was easily able to blow through them. I didn't notice anything come out nor was the gas an odd color.
Posted on: 2010/10/20 21:18
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Re: Third fuel filter in 3 mos. |
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Just to add to the story...
The engine goes from running great to dead almost immediately. The last time it died I was in the final slalom of my 3rd ever lap at an autocross (50mi from home) and I had to be pushed off the course. The next day I changed the filter and she fired right up. Similar story the previous time except it involved a tow truck. This is also the 3rd pump so the wiring has been redone and is peachy as well as new strainers on the pump. Nothing on the pump assembly looks amiss - nice and clean. If there is no reasonably easy way to fix the baffle tray then I'll remove it and go without. I'm not pulling the tank for that - too much work for too little gain. The car is running fine at the moment but I'd like to be sure I'm not going to be stranded somewhere with this same problem again. I'd rather it be a different problem  Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/10/20 18:51
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Third fuel filter in 3 mos. |
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In the last few months I've managed to clog 2 fuel filters... somehow. I'm on #3. All from Wix (O'reilly). One of the previous ones was cut open and there was nothing obvious in side it - no sediment or chunks (Old thread)
I'm thinking about yanking out the pump assembly, draining the tank and checking it out. Anything I should be looking for in particular? I'm not sure what I could possibly find that would make it thru the strainer and pump screen but clog the filter and not leave any evidence behind. Any better ideas? Also, last time I was in there I noticed that the fuel tray/baffle (?) had become detached from the bottom of the tank. Does anyone know how to reattach it - glue/epoxy? Now I can't take sharp corners without stalling the engine under 1/2 tank or so. Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/10/20 18:28
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Re: Direct fit driveshaft? |
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Stock is aluminum. There might be a carbon fiber version available but I'm not sure where. Van Steel has CF axle shafts.
Posted on: 2010/9/22 16:02
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Re: 421 almost started but..... |
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Quote:
Moates Ostrich 2.0 It's a chip emulator that, when combined with the proper software, provides real-time ECM tuning. No chip burning or swapping while tuning. Pretty cool toy for those that do a lot of tuning.
Posted on: 2010/9/13 21:22
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Re: Help with valve spring swap |
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Quote:
Winner. There was a chunk stuck under each valve with a small tangle in the middle. And, boy is thing carboned up. Needs some serious tuning or something. I don't recall it burning much oil - maybe 1qt/3k miles. Thanks all!
Posted on: 2010/9/13 21:14
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Re: Help with valve spring swap |
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Well, I tried working it out with the Exacto but the knot wound up breaking off inside the cylinder.
I guess I'll be pulling that head off tomorrow. Yay  Thanks for the ideas folks, but my curse with this car carries on.
Posted on: 2010/9/12 0:28
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Help with valve spring swap |
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I feel like such a tard for this. I'm using the "fill the cylinder with rope" trick to hold the valves up while changing springs. So far I have 7 cylinders done. The last one (#7) is just about done except for one thing. The rope won't come out. It seems to have tied itself into a knot somehow.
I've managed to get both ends of the rope out by using various picks and such but the knot is still in the cylinder. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get this thing out? I'd really hate to pull the head for this. I do still have to pull the intake so I'm half-way there but still.
Posted on: 2010/9/11 14:28
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Re: How to find the right valve springs... |
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Cool! Looks like I'll be able to start back on this thing tomorrow. Be nice to get it back on the road this weekend. Yay!
Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/9/8 15:16
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Re: How to find the right valve springs... |
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Sorry to drag this thread back up but I'm finally back to working on this car again.
I have all of the new parts ready to go - springs locks and seals. One final question. Since these shims are supposed to go under the seat/locator, is there a problem with the ID of the shim being so much larger than the guide? Shim ID: 0.8" vs. Guide: 0.55" Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/9/6 20:54
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Re: How to find the right valve springs... |
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Cool! Thanks for the recommendations. I'll probably place an order later this week and hopefully get the car back on the road soon. Be nice to drive it instead of look at it.
On the valve locks, do you know if that is $5 per valve, per cylinder or for all 16 valves? The pic suggests per cylinder - 2 valves.
Posted on: 2010/8/2 13:12
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Re: How to find the right valve springs... |
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Quote:
Thanks guys! That makes sense. I picked up a caliper (Harbor Freight to the rescue) and the step is 0.150" so that makes the height 1.790" then. Sound more reasonable? On a tangent... odd that that machined step fit the cap so well it made sense that the cap should be in there rather than above on the top lip. I did double-check with the caliper and sho-nuff the scale is accurate to the top lip and not the inner step.
Posted on: 2010/7/31 19:46
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Re: How to find the right valve springs... |
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LPE said the cam is the 219 - they didn't have part numbers way back then, though. The specs should be .560" lift intake/exhaust with 1.6 rr's according to research by Churchkey in the other thread. I'm not opposed to setting up a dial indicator to make sure if it would be better.
Posted on: 2010/7/31 15:30
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Re: How to find the right valve springs... |
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It was suggested in the other thread that this info would be needed to choose the right springs.
I can get the Melling part# that we installed last time we broke a spring if it would help. It won't be until maybe Monday or Tuesday, though. To be blunt, all I want to know is what springs I need for this engine. So far I've managed to break one of the originals that LPE put on and one of their replacements. LPE said they were stock springs - I don't know and I don't trust them at all. All I want is a working engine that doesn't require new springs every 10k miles.
Posted on: 2010/7/31 6:47
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Re: How to find the right valve springs... |
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Pic of cap and oil shield...
 Hi-Res For fun, here is the head and valve w/o the shim or spring seat...  Hi-Res I put the shim under the spring seat although I don't really like how loose it fits there. I remeasured and got a better look at the mic this time and I get 1.946". Pic of what I'm doing is below. Shim is sitting directly on the head, spring seat on the shim, mic on the seat, cap sits in a groove on the mic (see pics in first post), keys are seated on the valve tip (like all the other valves), busted spring is there for reference. No up/down play, valve is snugly closed. If my numbers don't make sense then what am I doing wrong? Bear in mind this is first time I have ever touched a valve mic so be gentle  Hi-Res
Posted on: 2010/7/31 3:05
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Re: How to find the right valve springs... |
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Better lucky than good, sometimes.
I would guess if it wasn't for the inner spring (damper?) it would have eaten the valve and I'd have a whole world of hurt.
Posted on: 2010/7/31 1:57
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How to find the right valve springs... |
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Old thread 86 Vette. 383. 113 heads done by LPE in the early 90s.
Thanks to numerous other projects (fuel pumps, heater cores, life, etc) I'm finally back to this project. Since I'm not totally sure what I'm doing, I'm adding a bunch of pics so if anyone sees anything amiss, please let me know - click for ginormous size. I pulled the old spring out. I'm no expert but I think this might be bad...  Hi-ResHere is a shot of the underside of the rocker. I don't see any evidence of impact...  Hi_Res Here is the valve w/o the spring or rocker. I tried to get as close to the tip as I could (I'd like a macro lens for this). I'm not sure what a valve float strike would look like but this looks kinda normal to me. Any other ideas?  Hi-Res Now for the questions. Here is a shot of the valve spring mic installed. There is no up/down movement of the valve. The cap and keys are installed but the oil shield is not. Am I doing this right? If so, I get about 1.94". Does that make sense? EDIT: I measured with the shims in place. I suppose a real measurement would need those taken out.  Hi-Res I haven't taken a spring in to check the open/closed pressure yet. Any ideas or advice is welcome. Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/7/30 22:07
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Re: No fuel pressure |
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Not much inside but an empty cavity.
Posted on: 2010/7/22 11:49
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Re: No fuel pressure |
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Senior Guru
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2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
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Quote:
There was no pressure after those were fixed yesterday. Didn't start working until the new filter was in.
Posted on: 2010/7/22 2:32
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Re: No fuel pressure |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
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OK
  Looks like a filter. I don't see anything obvious. I can blow through it with no resistance - in fact I blew the gas out of it before cutting. (These pics brought to you by Felpro )
Posted on: 2010/7/22 1:07
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Re: No fuel pressure |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
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Well, it was the filter. Put on a new Wix (same as before) and all is well. I am a bit curious as to why it lasted less than 2k miles - Wix is supposed to be a decent brand, I thought.
Even tho the pump wasn't the problem, the accessories that came with the new one included replacement wires to redo the in-tank power wires which were not in great shape. Silver lining and all that Thanks for the help!
Posted on: 2010/7/22 0:32
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Re: Anyone done a 6 speed swap? T56 or ??? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
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Look around for prices as they can vary wildly. I picked up an 90 L98 engine with black tag ZF6 for $1k late last year. Even got a B&M shifter with it which should be interesting. When I was looking I'd see some for much lower and others for higher.
Posted on: 2010/7/21 18:04
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Re: No fuel pressure |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
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How do I check that the FPR is OK?
Posted on: 2010/7/21 17:55
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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No fuel pressure |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
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90 L98
I was running errands last night and when I fired up the car to leave the last stop, the engine started but idled very poorly and couldn't make enough power to go over 2mph. Didn't feel like a miss... just very down on power. After I was towed home, I put the fuel pressure gauge on and while running I was getting maybe 20psi. The fuel filter and pump have under 2k miles on them. The old pump died about 2 months ago. and I changed the filter at the same time I installed a new pump (warranty replacement) last night and now I get no pressure with the key on but the pump does run for the normal 2-3seconds. It does spray out some fuel from the output line of the tank assembly (rubber hoses off) during the 2-3 second run. Also, no pressure builds while cranking and the car doesn't start. I plan on changing the filter again when I get home from work to rule it out although a plugged filter this quick seems odd. Any other ideas on what to check? Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/7/21 16:26
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Re: Plastic trim repair |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
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That stuff looks pretty nifty.
Posted on: 2010/7/6 14:38
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Plastic trim repair |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
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I'm in the throws of swapping the heater core on the 90 and as I pull stuff out it appears that either time, mileage or other people have broken many of the tabs holding the various trim pieces together. I've never taken this stuff apart before so it's not my fault (for once
) I figure that getting these pieces bolted down correctly will cut down on the creaking.Some of the pieces are just cracked so I suppose a little superglue or maybe epoxy should do it. Any ideas what I should look for to make sure everything is compatible and that it really sticks? The other problem is missing tabs. How to I fix these? I'm not sure how to add material with any strength. Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/7/6 14:01
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Re: Water pump gaskets |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
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Thanks! Looks like I'll be picking up some normal gaskets later. Hopefully I can get it taken apart today, at least. It's going to be 97+* today so I'm not looking forward to this.
Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/6/20 8:50
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Re: What I learned today |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
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Did not know that. Interesting.
I usually use my fogs as running lights at dusk. I usually never have them on when the headlights are on. They are pretty useless for lighting.
Posted on: 2010/6/19 14:39
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86 Coupe: SR 383 90 Convertible: Stock L98 06 Z06: Stock LS7 |
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Water pump gaskets |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
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1990 L98
It appears that the gasket between the WP and the block on the passenger side has decided to start leaking. The pump itself and the hoses are dry. I replaced he pump a few years ago. What would be the best thing to use as a replacement? New gasket, just some Right Stuff, a combo of both, or is there something better? Thanks!
Posted on: 2010/6/19 14:31
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Re: Tow hitch |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2008/10/23 15:28 From Conway, AR
Posts:
128
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I haven't installed one on mine but I looked into it and decided to go a different route. JCWhitney sells the Curt for $200.
Posted on: 2010/4/20 16:00
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