If oil prices have gone up, why hasnt oil prices gone up? I am referring to oil in Parts stores. I have seen a change in a long time.

Installed time sert. It was not perfectly straight though. Weird. I put the bolts that go into #8 cylinders to hold the header in and you have to stare for a while to realize the one I did was at an angle different to the factory angle, minor though. I am sure the header will tighten fine. I will just have to check the bolt every once in a while, and I will use a lock washer and loctite too.

The super wammy dammy pink colored one is special secret stuff. It looks cool though, and my machinist says it is a Very good one, use in level 1, SS, and SOC programs.

Update: I couldnt leave well enough alone. The manifold side of the head is done, as I just put in a super wammy dammy pink colored heli coil.
The exhaust side is a little different. The time cert is out, and the threads in the heads are for the time sert to screw into to. But at the very beginning of the hole the threads are mangled. I need a tap to cut in, but it needs to start in a little ways to be guided properly as the one I have is a bottom tap thread cutter. So tommorow I will get the proper tool.

I just took the header out as I was trying to see what was wrong as I couldnt even start a bolt in the header. Well the time cert (sert?) had backed its way out of the head, bring the oversized threads out. Now I have to figure out if the time cert hole that was drilled is even usable again. If the heads are going to come off, AFR's are going on. I spent money on these heads to be less of a head ache, and they have been nothing but, from broken springs as CNC put wrongs ones in for cam I had (Comp Cams 941, just look them up) and then I put time certs in TO PREVENT shit like this, being pro Active and heli coils in the manifold side of the head. I had a very reputable machine shop do it, now I am screwed as I cant drill in there. I will talk to my machinist tommorow, see what we can do.
I really dont want to let it sit, as the engine needs to be fired up.

I am resting. If I can get to the rear, #8 header bolt, I need to figure out how to repair a time sert.
The intake is a helicoil repair, but manifold needs to be off to ensure no metal gets into engine. I DONT WANT TO TAKE HEAD OFF!

I have been down this road before, never ending frustration but this time the straw has broken me. Times are tough, and arent getting any better.
1993 C4 Ruby Coupe Auto 140000 miles of love
I just rebuilt the 396 LT1, and after it was all said and done 2 bolts stripped. Of course both belong to the passenger side cylinder head. One for manifold and #8 rear header bolts. If I was putting any torque on them I could understand, but I was doing first round on manifold, 20#'s torque, and it stripped with heloicoil already installed. The header bolt was intial snugging down, and it stripped with Time cert already in.
DONE!
Now I need to offload or use as a spare car, parts bitch what ever.
Its easier to say what it does need, as opposed to what it has.
It needs carpet and seats recovered, and need to start saving for paint as the 1999 Callaway paint is chipped and needing a re-do.
Engine 396 LT1 just rebuilt with new rings, etc etc. Originally built by More Performance of NC. I snapped the crank hub bolt and the crank needed to be taken out to repair, so I just redid what I could to freshen her up.
Transmission less than a 1000 miles on rebuild and Vigilante 2800 stall. PCMforLess tune
Newly rebuilt, while ugly, suspension. 1990 ZO7 springs, new Moog Ball joints, VB&P bushings and lowered. Rearend is a D44 with 3.75 gears, and the only non urethane bushings are the Dog Bones.
C5 brakes, braided Russell lines.
17x9.5 fronts and 17x11 rears A Molds with BFG KDs
Aftermarket stereo
S/T Frame / RD Camber Bar RD Roof Brace
Fresh rebuild on steering column with new pins, housing/support etc.
DRM 1 3/4 SS coated headers- Flowmaster (old) cat back.
BeCool radiator and extra tranny cooler.
DELTEQ Igntion
And various little stuff.
This is not a trailer queen, so it isnt super pretty.
Now, since it isnt back together as I have had it, whats it worth, or what would you do. I am old and tired of it.

Just let me know Andy. The crankshaft was repaired today, yet I wont touch it till this weekend, and wont be putting the engine back in for a couple weeks. I am in no hurry.

I have pulled the engine as I had a oil leak at the front. I researched possible leaks, and it came down to Water Pump drive seal and crankshaft. Well, I pulled the water pump and that was okay, at first. Then I pulled the hub as there was oil under it. Turns out it was the water pump drive seal as the NEW water Pump was vibrating causing the seal not to seal. So, no biggie right. Wrong, the bolt for the hib is broke. And as you know there isnt much room to drill out old bolt. I was using a very good left hand drill and cobalt and eventually carbide bits. But being a blind hole it was difficult. The extractor broke in there, and it was a straight flute style. So, needles to say, engine and crank had to come out to get extractor out, which a threaded rod and old 3/8 socket welded to it and slide hammer worked. But crank needs retapping etc, so it is being fixed properly.
Now I am replacing rings to std, to control oil, and putting a proper head gasket to raise my compression back to 11-to1 and getting rid of the high pressure oil pump spring and last but not least, getting rid of Comp Cams Noisy unreliable R lifters (pain to set up and according to many forums they are breaking).
So, there is why engine came out. and yes I need one if you have no need for it
Steve

I need a GM or AC Delco part number for the oil temp sensor above the oil filter on my 93 Vette. Parts America (Checkers etc) want 50 bucks for this damn thing. I know they arent that much. Rock Auto wants 31 plus 12 bucks shipping to Hawaii.
Its just a damn sensor. Mine cracked in half pulling the engine.

If any one cares, here is the engineering drawing for my Callies Stealth crank
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/scan0003-1.jpg[/IMG]

Quote:
I remember when this company,, MBA? made these. I sent them a picture of the 40th anniversary emblem and they made me one. I have it, but it isnt on a throttle body as it faded, the ruby color, and I have a different throttle body that wont accept it.

I use the ruby center caps on my AFS ZR1 replicas.

No gas prices will go down, as now they know we can pay what they want.
The inventory was supposedly lower, but todays report showed the oil was in ships outside of the fog stopping ports in the gulf.

Better springs would help. Also, after lowering did you cut the rear bump stops a little, about 1/2-3/4 inch?
Mines lowered to 26 inches(groung to center of top of whel arch) in the rear and I never bottomed out with Bilsteins or my QA1's. I just put in the stiffer ZO7 spring package and it is stiffer. I doubt I will bottom out unless its a big bump at speed.

[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/mooseenginejuly222006.jpg[/IMG]

140000

1996, Nov

Well, the threads are started later in the crank too. I will call Callies again. They need serial numbers. They say the Dragon Slayer cranks are normal, yet there magnum cranks are drilled deeper to lighten them up.

Clicking on any of them makes them go to there original size.

Thanks.

Here are some more from the net. There not mine, but are nice eye candy.
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/viper_edited.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/VetteAss.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/83134-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/VictoriasDiabloSV.jpg[/IMG]

Click on the pcture , it should be a tad larger/
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/232.jpg[/IMG]

When you say "get as much negative camber upf front", how much difference in negative camber front to rear is a good starting point?
Also, smooth is fast. Of course I try to be as afast as possible and push the car, as you would be surprised how far you can push a C4 before losing it.

I thought women and Corvettes were cool. I had my avatar removed as it was outside of the rules.

I am replacing my crank hub bolt, as it snapped. Long story. Anyways, the factory is 7/16 -20 x 2 1/4. Someone told me the aftermarket crankshafts are drilled deper, so a longer bolt is necessary. True? I so, anyone dealt with this and what lenght bolt is needed.
My engine builder is out of business, so no one really to call.

Thanks Keven. I am going to get new ones, unless my welder can weld the broke one. He thinks its cracked. He is going to NDI it tommorow after welding it together.
Then if all is well we will machine aluminum spacers to height, to where it touches like you said, then weld them on the brackets.
Then torque it down.
Its a "Steve" thing with my 93
Here is someone elses dilemma and good write up.
http://nswcorvettes.com.au/forum/viewthread.php?tid=4992

Thanks anyways. I think I will manage. Its frustrating to have the front lowered by someone else, when I first bought it, and it was done wrong.
But, now I know what he did. I went out and played with the pieces and parts. He cut the retainer by 1/2 too much.
My welder is going to fix the one bracket and I will machine 2 spacers to accommodate the undercut.

Okay, I think I had a bad day. I have used Central Coasters, web, which is great. What I found is after Over researching, that the years of C4's are all a little different in design, springs etc etc and even the pad eyes on the end of the spring.
So what happened was the aluminum bracket that holds the spring up snapped when reinstalling it. OUCH.
Question that needs to be answered. Steve WTF did you do? Well the Vette was "lowered" by a friend years ago, 1997ish. He cut the rubber off of the spring, then used the aluminum spacer and cut the bracket down. Well, either it was never secured in there properly, or it was sandwiched better than the way the urethane blocks compressed, or shall I say barely compressed and it caused the bracket to snap. I was using a 3/8 drive, so not much torque.
Okay, Question #1
What is the original height of the bracket, before cutting?
Q#2
How much did you cut off of the bracket, either using the aluminum spacers or not, but definetly with the wedges glued on?
Q#3
Does the aluminum bracket touch the spacer when tightening?
Or is there a gap?
Q#4
In reference to #3, how much does the wedge and or rubber on the bottom of the spring "Compress" when tightened?
Q#5
The reason I put the spacer in today was because the spring was touching the center of the frame when snug, so does it re arch itself once the control arms are in place and the front suspension tightened back up?

I read on another forum where someone with a93 had the same issue as mine, it came right off and went right back in with no drama. I swear, my 93 is weird, I have found so many 93 specific items, its mind boggling.

I was a little confused too. It came off easy, never had leaks ever. And when it came off it had just the two black seals. I tried to put the larger two that were with it, but there is no way for them to fit anywhere.
I put it on and pumped the brakes real hard, and no leaks. Its on firm, but you can move it left and right a little.
I need a picture from the side to see if the reservoir is flat up against the master cylinder, as mine has a little gap

I changed my master cylinder reservoir on my 93 Vette, as I was bored and figured while the car is down doing water pump, suspension etc etc.
Well, when I took it off the unit only had two seals, ( I have had this since 96). So, I checked the FSM and it showed it only had two. Seems kinda strange as the reservoir from GM came with 2 seals, a large one and a little one. The little ones were the same as the ones that go into the master cylinder. Its not leaking, and wasn't leaking before, and it doesn't fit tight, just snug.
Is this normal? Most threads on replacing this people are using vices/blocks of wood, freezing the plastic reservoir prior to install etc etc.
Heres the old one as it came off.
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF0028-1.jpg[/IMG]

From Vette Brakes
"Hi Stephen,



Unfortunately, when we get our front-end parts from moog (and some other suppliers as well) there are no instructions or torque specs for anything. It sounds like you have the correct sequence as far as ball joint, gasket, a-arm, then boot & retainer ring goes. The Chilton book for C-4 vette says the tiny nuts for the uppers are at 13 foot-pounds. The ball stud hex nut is from 33 to 63 foot-pounds. The large stover nuts on the aluminum cross shafts are at 37 foot-pounds. Since they are a “stover” type locking nut it is not that critical, just make sure they are tight."

I like the idea of these gears. A little closer ratios and would be less violent 1-2 second gear hit. A little better overdrive helps too.

I used loctite and snugged them real good. Its not much torque.
Chech this out. I wonder if this is the correct torque, as GM is very specific on terms associated with nuts/bolt when describing what to tighten etc.
From the FSM
"'m sorry, I misread the model year on your car, thinking it was a 94. Ok, I doubt that much changed in this respect through the years. In my manual on page 3C-4, Figure 3 - UPPER CONTOL ARM INSTALLATION. Last paragraph on the page under INSTALL OR CONNECT, there is a wrench icon, TIGHTEN.
"Control arm nuts to 50 N.m (37 lb. ft.) I certainly don't blame you for double checking. If you are uncertain about that figure, do as the other fellows did, "tighten the hell out of it!" Worst case, it will harshen the ride a bit and also stress the control arm somewhat. We're not absolute experts here on the forum (probably some are); I looked up what I could and read what was there.
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/scan0001-4.jpg[/IMG]

Quote:

I used your pics from your website to remove/replace the bushings. Thanks. I will torque down till the nut touches the washer, then turn a little more till it just starts to resist, very little that is. The problem with the bolt is it is teflon coated, so there is a running torque involved, and the actual torque will be 10% above stated recommended torque.The other issue is with binding, which you dont want. I bet torque will really be about 50ft/lbs.
NAVY QA and working with engineers helps allot.

On the subject of the ball joints/A Arms, what did you torque the A arms too after install. I have heard from 10-75ft/lbs.
When I broke them loose the torque, calibrated by US NAVY, showed 80-85 for all four bolts when they broke loose.

Thanks Guys, here are some pics. My internet has been down for a while, and I couldnt upload at work.
[IMG width="500"]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF0025-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG width="500"]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF0024-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG width="500"]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF0023-1.jpg[/IMG]

I am putting my Moog Upper ball joints in my 93 Vette. Wel, VB&P gave no instructions as the correct way to install the boot, gasket and metal plate. Anyone done this that has pictures ands instruction before I get an answer from VB&P next week.
I put the ball joint through with gasket, then on the bottom side I put the boot in then the metal retainer plate with lip down so it doesnt cut into boot, then I put the bolts in. Its dry fitted, not torqued yet.
And that brings up another question, what torque do these little nuts get torqued to, XX inch pounds?

Quote:
The ZR1 is 3 inches wider than a standard C4.

I know they are wider, and they seem taller and longer. I guess I need to find out. BUt the ZO6 C6 is bigger. When mine is parked next to it mine looks smaller.
No worries, autocross is all about fun, and C4's can definitely handle, and they can hang with C5/6's easily with a little extra power too.
Okay
C6 174 inches long, 72in wide, 49 inches high
C4 176 inches long, 71 inches wide, 46 inches tall.

Well I thought this was a good article. And C4's are very good at auto cross, and are better in many respects out there. C5/C6's are bigger and wider, not the best for autocross. But an HPDE course, well they have many advantages, BUT should after learning from C4 production, racing etc.

Okay, the critical step in doing this job is to ensure intermediate shaft with jam nut is in same position it was a beginning of job, if you take the column out of car. I fixed the column yesterday. Basically tore it down to where you can see the bearing races and upper shaft. The shaft was up to high, so I loosened jam nut, set bearing and shaft where it needed to be and voila, all is well now.

Quote:
I marked everything, but the one part (the housing) was a little different. Same part number, just a tad different. But, anyways, can you push on your wheel at all and it go down as if a spring is pushing it?
I think I will take it down again.

Any year can do this. Can you see if you can push your steering wheel in any amount, as if you are pushing against a spring. Just put your hand on the wheel, 9 and 3 positions then push straight down towards the steering column shaft to see if there is a little bit of spring/tension pushing back. It is not real light, so you need to push kinda hard.
I just redid the column but there is no actual position for the intermediate shaft that goes into the coupler right before the c/v joint. This shaft goes right into the coupler and has a 13mm bolt that jams the shaft in there. It is approximately right below the brake booster. And when you put the column back in, the FSM doesnt say where the how far down the shaft needs to go, then tighten the jam nut.
Thanks

I found a stash of old Road and Tracks etc, and found this article. I really like the part about how the suspensions were modified by Herb Adams, especially where they say a brace is added to control A Arm bending. Is this a Camber brace precursor? WHo knows. But I would like to find Herb Adams website and ask them. Do they have one, a website that is?
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/HerbAdams.jpg[/IMG]

I have been working diligently with this Code 44 problem. Can someone help this person. I am out of ideas/? I know its another forum, but its not THAT one
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/f ... d.php?p=883255#post883255

I just had LASIK surgery and I dont see them either.

I would recommend taking a MAP sensor off of another GM car, and see if the problem goes away. Saves a few bucks that way. GM used the same MAP for many years.

I was thinking the dog bones in the rear. They seem simple enough. I know I dont want things to bind.