I am putting my Moog Upper ball joints in my 93 Vette. Wel, VB&P gave no instructions as the correct way to install the boot, gasket and metal plate. Anyone done this that has pictures ands instruction before I get an answer from VB&P next week.
I put the ball joint through with gasket, then on the bottom side I put the boot in then the metal retainer plate with lip down so it doesnt cut into boot, then I put the bolts in. Its dry fitted, not torqued yet.
And that brings up another question, what torque do these little nuts get torqued to, XX inch pounds?

You've got it right.

Also I put the bolts facing up to prevent them binding during suspension movement. Others haven't had a problem there.

You may not find torque specs since the factory used rivets.

A general torque spec for a bolt this size is 15-20 ft-lbs.

I haven't done those ball joints...

I am shocked, tho, that they didn't include some kinda diagram.

Thanks Guys, here are some pics. My internet has been down for a while, and I couldnt upload at work.
[IMG width="500"]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF0025-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG width="500"]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF0024-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG width="500"]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF0023-1.jpg[/IMG]

On the subject of the ball joints/A Arms, what did you torque the A arms too after install. I have heard from 10-75ft/lbs.
When I broke them loose the torque, calibrated by US NAVY, showed 80-85 for all four bolts when they broke loose.

I assume you mean the big aluminum nuts now? Loosening torque is always higher anyways because the threads always stick after sitting for awhile, especially on aluminum. You won't find a factory spec on that because it wasn't a serviceable part.

Measure the bolt size and do a search online. The material under the bolt and on the threads also factors in. You can google it.


http://www.rpmmech.com/docs/tightening_torque.pdf

http://www.homecents.com/building_mat ... s/torque_specs/index.html

Also when putting the zerk fitting in it will cut its own threads. Do it a little at a time and back it out and clean in there to prevent contaminating the balljoint with metal shavings

On the second pic, the bolts attaching the balljounts don't look like they are the whole way theu the nuts. I realize that they're metal lock nuts but I wouldn't feel good about it. I like to see 2 threads going past the end of the nut.

Quote:

I used your pics from your website to remove/replace the bushings. Thanks. I will torque down till the nut touches the washer, then turn a little more till it just starts to resist, very little that is. The problem with the bolt is it is teflon coated, so there is a running torque involved, and the actual torque will be 10% above stated recommended torque.The other issue is with binding, which you dont want. I bet torque will really be about 50ft/lbs.
NAVY QA and working with engineers helps allot.

I used loctite and snugged them real good. Its not much torque.
Chech this out. I wonder if this is the correct torque, as GM is very specific on terms associated with nuts/bolt when describing what to tighten etc.
From the FSM
"'m sorry, I misread the model year on your car, thinking it was a 94. Ok, I doubt that much changed in this respect through the years. In my manual on page 3C-4, Figure 3 - UPPER CONTOL ARM INSTALLATION. Last paragraph on the page under INSTALL OR CONNECT, there is a wrench icon, TIGHTEN.
"Control arm nuts to 50 N.m (37 lb. ft.) I certainly don't blame you for double checking. If you are uncertain about that figure, do as the other fellows did, "tighten the hell out of it!" Worst case, it will harshen the ride a bit and also stress the control arm somewhat. We're not absolute experts here on the forum (probably some are); I looked up what I could and read what was there.
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/scan0001-4.jpg[/IMG]

Ok I had no idea what nuts you were messing with.

Yeah, those cap screws on the upper ball joint look short. Mine fit fine out of the moog box, threads were about flush with the nut. I think it used the oval-holed locking nuts too.

Quote:

you mean "stover nuts"...aka "deformed locking nuts"

From Vette Brakes
"Hi Stephen,



Unfortunately, when we get our front-end parts from moog (and some other suppliers as well) there are no instructions or torque specs for anything. It sounds like you have the correct sequence as far as ball joint, gasket, a-arm, then boot & retainer ring goes. The Chilton book for C-4 vette says the tiny nuts for the uppers are at 13 foot-pounds. The ball stud hex nut is from 33 to 63 foot-pounds. The large stover nuts on the aluminum cross shafts are at 37 foot-pounds. Since they are a “stover” type locking nut it is not that critical, just make sure they are tight."

Quote:

Thanks!

Now that you've done this job, maybe you can help me with mine.

My upper ball joints pass the FSM test -- they are in excellent condition. Unfortunately, I discovered that one of the boots was ripped. What do I need to do to replace only the boot? I purchased a new boot and am ready to go, and hope I don't have to remove the existing ball joint just to replace the boot!!!

As I look in my FSM for a '94, on page 3C-15 it says;

Tighten four upper ball stud mounting nuts to 18Nm (13 lb. ft.).

Also, Figure 15 on page 3C-16 points to the mounting bolts and states: "Bolts must be mounted in the direction shown". Attached is the figure.

If you just want to change the boot, it's just as much work because you have to seperate the knuckle and remove the ball joint bolts or rivets.