jsup,

Here is my full post from the other thread. You are clearly taking my words out of context. Is that how you guys that work in marketing do it?

Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 12:21 am Post subject:
Wolfplace wrote:
Tod85
Looks suspiciously like Wes's deal

Hey Mike, that would be my test. Small internet, huh? Thanks for the Morel lifters, the con rods, and the advice!!!

With regards to the test, I tried to keep it as scientific as possible within the constraints of my application. One of the constraints was a low hood clearance, thus the Team G intake, the second being I wanted a somewhat mild cam. I'm sure a bigger cam would have delivered more top end HP, but I doubt my wife would have liked the idle when she is putting arond town, fouling plugs. Finally, I am currently running an 1800-2200 stall converter, and a 3.36 gear.

Driven as tested in the baseline test, with the flat tappet cam and Team G, the car went a best of 12.77 @ 107.XX (It's gone 108.XX, but not on that pass) at Famoso on 10/26/08. With the same engine and a Weiand #8120 intake, the car went 12.79 at Famoso on 10/19/08. The car is not optimized for sure. All shifts were at 5000 RPM (with the Stock shifter left in D), and the car is trapping around 5000 - 5100 RPM.

[b][i]With that said, I was looking to go quicker and wanted to try another set of heads. I jumped in the middle of a nut-swinging love fest thread on another forum, and offered to put up or shut up with my car. I had no direct affiliation with any of the head manufactures at that point in time.
I've been happy with my 1962 Camel Hump heads that Mike Stark ported, and to be honest was kinda hoping to beat the aftermarket heads with them. They did better than most expected...

Any way, the results are posted above. During the course of the test, I was impressed by the difference the HR cam made, and the numbers put-out by the AFR heads.

Wes
_________________
1972 C10
1965 Chevelle
1962 Corvette
1959 Corvette
www.picturetrail.com/wesmigletz[/b][/i]

I did not know Tony, nor did I ever meet him, prior to being selected for the test. This is not the first time you called me a liar or questioned my motives in a thread. This isn't the first time you thanked me for my efforts in a thread, then within the same thread called me a liar or questioned my motivations. Are you mental? Seriously!!! Why would you "thank/congratulate/leg hump me" in one part of a thread, and call me a liar in another post within the same thread?

I do not know what yur problem is. I do not care. However, I do not want you posting in any more of my threads. Your posts are like a cancer, they seem to kill every thread they touch.


WRT your post:

1. AFR paid for the dyno run.
No shet
2. Tony was at the dyno run, with the picture to document.
Congratulations, you're not blind
3. you were SELECTED by Tony to participate in this "experiment"
I wouldn't have been in the pic with him otherwise
4. You got a significant discount on the product for your participation.
What percent off of list constitutes "significant"? Most expensive friggin discount I ever got FWIW.
5. The heads were provided directly from the manufacturer directly for this test not off the shelf from some reseller.
Not sure what you are stating here.
6. AFR did all the flow numbers and testing on your Darts and cast iron heads, right? That's where you got all the numbers from isn't it? What do you mean by all? I've posted the flow sheet for my camel hump heads that were provided by Mike Stark heads several times on this forum and others. They've been posted on some of the forums over two years ago. WRT, this cylinder test, all the heads were measured/poured by the same person flowed on the same bench, under the same conditions, and with the same correction factors, by the same person. Heck this individual has said as much, and he even posted in this thread! Do you know a better way to eliminate the variables and establish the baselines?
7. Tony says we have "more" tests coming out soon. So I guess this was part of the AFR test cycle as it seems the reference to "more" would indicate as such.
I can't speak for Tony or AFR. I have no idea what they have planned.

[jsup]Before you say no one wrote a check to Wes, let's look at that.

1. Three sets of heads flow benched for free. Compensation
2. Free dyno time to pick his combination. Compensation
3. Big discount on the AFR product. Compensation

Don't want to color the results with facts huh? Is there an NDA in play here? Seems clearly like affiliation to me, direct of otherwise.[jsup]

1. You need to loosen your tin foil hat. The heads were flowed to establish a baseline, which would later be used as data, when comparing the power output of each head. Do you have a better way of doing it?

2. Yeah right. These tests didn't cost me a dime!

3. Big discount? You've got to be shetting me. You obviously don't know Tony. The guy is tighter than a fish's hole... not that there's anything wrong with that.

I can assure you there is no NDA, not even a contract. We exchanged emails, we talked on the phone, we met, we agreed as to what each of us would do, shook hands, and did it. It really was that simple. However, I suspect people like you do not operate that way, and as such, are unable to relate to those who do.





Quote:

Beach Bum, thanks for the simulation effort. I wasn't able to view the graphs, but I'll check again, when I return to L.A.

Wes

Quote:

Tony, I could be persuaded, depending how things pan-out at MEPS over the next few weeks...

Regardless, the 383 will be coming out of the Vette soon.

I'm leaving K.C. for L.A. in about 6 hours with the wife, the boy, the dog, and 5 in-laws in a Sienna mini-van. Assuming I survive the drive back, we can talk.

Wes

Quote:

I happened to check the thread out and saw Mike Lewis from Team Chevelle had posted in it. I bought the Morel lifters and con rods from him. He suggested the Morel lifters as being the only way to fly. They held their own in the upper RPM FWIW...

I can't even claim 500...

Merry Christmas everybody.

I'm at my mother's house in Raytown, Mo. Drove-out from L.A. with my wife, son, new dog, and 5 in-laws in a Sienna mini van.

As soon as the wife gets back from church, the kids will get to do presents.

My car weighs about 3300 lbs with me in it. Any weight savings from the aluminum heads will be offset by the weight I'm gaining at my mother's house. The car will be getting weighed in the near future, so we will know where that stands. Performance-wise, I will be very happy with anything in the 11.XX range, but I am expecting low 12s. The car may be nearing the traction limits of the 235/60/15 ET Streets, so it will likely take some work to get everything sorted out.

I think you're going to see the earlier Vette's modified and upgraded (restified) as the old timers start dying-off. There will be more resto-rod type builds and late model drivetrain swaps, kinda like you see among the tri 5 Chevies.

As far as carb tuners go, there aren't a lot of competent shops out there. I've had to unfugg a few cars for friends that some higher-end hot rod shops managed to screw-up.

I'd like to learn to rebuild and service the Rochester injections. Very few left that can...

Matthew, thank you for the generous offer. However, the figure I'm looking for is somewhere North of there...

BTW Matthew, those 180 CC Darts were good for 446 foot pounds @ 2700 RPM at the wheels on my 383. All that torque can be yours if the price is right.



Quote:

Tony, here's the pic. I cropped the other guy out of the pic, because I'm not sure if he wants it going around the internet (at least not yet). I have the full pic available, if I have his blessing to post it...

jsup, I've had my 180 CC Dart Pro 1 Platinums since December last year. I bought them for my truck's 383. They were to replace a set of nicely ported #186 1970 Z/28 heads I was running. They sat in my garage for 11 months and finally made it on an engine for the first time last month. I would have bought AFR 180 CC heads at the time, but there was a wait of 12-14 weeks. Those heads were purchased long before this test was ever discussed in C4, and for what it's worth, I did not know Tony prior to this test.

With the AFR heads unavaialable, I looked at Edelbrock RPM and E-Tec 170 heads, as well as Patriot and TFS. Edelbrock is located nearby, has a good reputation locally, and a lot of guys run them. However, looking at the two Edelbrock and Dart heads side by side, the Dart heads were a cleaner casting. I was not impressed by the Patriot's I saw. I like the TFS head, but ultimately went with the Darts because, I've run Dart heads before, and my local speed shop had a pair, and offered to set them up for my HR cam. The Dart head purchase was not part of some nefarious scheme, as you suggest. As I told you in a previous thread, I am not a Dart hater.

Regarding the AFR 195 heads, I wanted a set for my stroked 327. Been wanting them for a while, actually. I stumbled onto the C4 thread after I did an AFR search. An open offer was made to the forum for a discount on a set of heads, and to have the dyno time paid for. Seeing how I was in the market for a set of AFR heads, the timing was right.

A lot of work was involved on my end, to baseline my car at the track, and get it dialed in. I also had to pull my engine for the tests. I will be re-installing the engine and going back to the track. A shet load of candy azz nut swingers were posting in that thread. After the smoke cleared, none of those limp sticks had the stones to step up to the plate and do what needed to be done.

Bottom line is some people sit around pulling data outta their azz, then proceed to chest thump on the internet. Others get off their azz and do something.

I formed my hypothesis, stepped up to the plate and tested it. It cost me a lot of time, a fair amount of jack, and I risked my numbers matching engine in the process. In return, I got solid data. And guess what, if the Darts would have made more power, they would be on my engine. It really is that simple.

BTW, Tony believed his heads were the best. He was willing to put his $$$ and his reputation where his mouth was, so to speak. He stepped up, not knowing how the chips would fall. That is a hell of a lot more than anyone else in this thread has done.

My results are what they are. Take them or leave them. I could give a shet. I live and play in the real world.

For clarity purposes, the following links are to each cyclinder head manufacturer's site. In a previous post, I incorrectly stated that the AFR heads were NOT fully CNC ported. The AFR heads were in fact CNC ported; they were the street version. The AFR heads were not the competition heads. I do not want my words to detract from what was tested. So, I linked-up the manufacturer's sites.

Link to the AFR Heads:
http://www.airflowresearch.com/195sbc_sh.php

Link to the 200 CC Dart Pro1 Platinum Heads:
http://www.dartheads.com/products/cyl ... -pro1-platinum-heads.html

If you scroll through this link, there are some build pics for the stroked 327, the solid flat tappet's cam card, pics of the ported camel humps, and a flow sheet provided by Mike Stark at CFM Performance.

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/12432617

Quote:

That may have had something to do with the single plane intake, and FWIW, the combos all seemed to like similar timing and fuel curves.

PeteK, the camel hump heads have the competition port job done by Mike Stark at CFM Performance. He did a hell of a job on them. They actually out flowed a set of 180 Dart Pro 1 Platinum Heads that I had, on the same flow-bench all the other heads were tested on.

BTW, those 180 CC Darts actually came out at 191 CC.

My 180 CC heads have about 500 street miles on them. I'm going to be selling them and replacing them with a set of AFR heads. Anyone looking for some heads?

Quote:

Quote:

I would have been posted a few moments sooner, but I was distracted by your avatar...

[IMG]http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn283/Flowizard/MigletzDynotest.jpg[/IMG]

Green: Baseline with re-grind solid flat tappet cam and camel hump heads
Grey: Added HR Cam
Blue: Added 200 CC Dart Pro 1 Platinum Heads
Pink: Added AFR 195 CC Heads

As with the baseline, each new combo was tuned for optimal fuel and timing curves.

Quote:

That kinda swap doesn't happen overnight. It is still under consideration...

jsup,

The engine was first tested with the solid flat tappet regrind cam. Then it was tested with the HR cam. Then the Dart heads, with CNC Chambers, were swapped on. Then the AFR street heads, not the fully CNC heads, were swapped. The power effects of the HR cam had nothing to do with the difference in power the heads produced. All three heads were tested with the same HR cam, and FWIW, I ran a smaller cam than some of those involved thought I should have ran.

There were parts used from AFR, Dart, Morel, Competition Cams, Camonics, Johnson lifters, and Weiand.I suppose that I should disclose that I am friends with a Holley engineer. Does that make my Weiand intakes suspect as well? I do not have a personal relationship with anyone else involved with the test.

The dyno guy, the magazine guy, my son, and I were the only ones to touch the engine. All parts used were off the shelf, beyond the gasket matched intake, something I wanted, and the ported camel humps. There were no ringers.

EDIT: I will concede, however, I wore a certain car-related website's t-shirt to the test. I did not pay for the shirt. Well, it wasn't exactly free... it was kinda like at Sturgis, where the guys give chics the shirts if they try them on in front of them... When I went to get the shirt, I was like,"So, what do I owe you for the shirt?", the guru was like, "You can have it if you try it on here." So, aside from a little dignity, it didn't cost me nothing...

Matthew,

I doubt this will be the end all be all, but they are valid results based on my combo and my testing. I was one of the guys spinning wrenches, and beyond wanting to see max power for my engine, without having a rod ventilate the block, I did not have a stake in it.

I put forth a hell of a lot of my time and $$$ to make this test happen. I also went to great lengths to eliminate variables as much as possible. The dyno operator did not have a stake in the test as well. He was neutral like the Swiss.

However, I must disclose the camel hump heads had 62 CC chambers, where as the Darts and AFR heads had 65 cc chambers. This was the result of my recollection of the camel hump chamber size being wrong. C'est la guerre.

Well, it's done. Finally got around to putting my stroked 327 on an engine dyno.

The combo:
My car's original, numbers-matching 1962 327/300 HP block and heads
Bore is 4.040"
The heads have been cut for 2.02/1.6" valves
Some minor port work
3.85" stroke crank, internally balanced
6.00" Manley SJ Rods
22 CC Forged, Ross Dished pistons
Off the shelf Comp 282 Retro-fit HR Cam, ground on a 112* LS
Morel Retro fit HR Lifters
Comp Gold 1.6 ratio roller rockers
Weiand Team G intake, opened up to a 1206 gasket
750 CFM Carb
1 3/4" X 3" dyno headers, 18" X 3" collector extension

The engine was base-lined with the above combo, fuel and timing curves were optimized for max power. All tests were done on the same SF-902 dyno, on the same day, with the same correction factors. Each combo was optimized for both timing and fuel curves.

The cam was picked by me, based on how I drive the car. The intake, while not ideal for a street car, offered the best potential, given the constraints of my vehicle's hood clearance. I would have rather ran a RPM air gap, or a Weiand Air Strike, but the bottom line is that they will not fit under the hood of my car. I have ran this engine at the track with a Weiand #8120 low-rise dual plane, and the Team G, in back to back weeks. Despite being handicapped with a 5000 RPM shift point, the Team G was worth 2/100ths and nearly .5 MPH vs the 8120. The 8120 was no slouch, and produced a 12.79 et at Famoso.

First we tested a set of 200 CC Dart Pro 1 Platinum Heads. We then tested a set of 195 CC Eliminator heads.

What are your predictions for:

1. What was my return for the $1400 investment to swap to the aluminum 200 CC Dart Pro 1 Platinum heads? How did the wet-flow heads fare vs my 46 year old power-sapping Camel hump heads?

2. With no other change, than swapping to the 195 CC AFR street heads, what was the net effect on power? Did the AFR heads deliver?

I no longer have mere opinions or speculations, I have dyno results. I helped swap the parts and dialed in the carbs.

Fire away...

I'm not sure about the different generation of Lexus engines. It would be a matter of what I could get the cheapest, and how the accessories matched with the chassis. My wife is wanting me to swap a stock LSx engine, so that option is on the table too.

Either the Lexus or LSx swap would require swapping the front suspension to a rack and pinion kit, so I could use side engine mounts. On a stock C1, the engine mount is between the water pump and the block...

Any late model swap would have to meet the following criteria: 20+ MPG, 12.5 or quicker in the 1/4 mile, relatively cheap, and offend those that need offending...

Quote:

I'm considering a Lexus drivetrain. I have a friend that swaps Lexus engines into all his street rods. So far he's done: (2) 1934 Fords 1 V8 and 1 supercharged V6; a Packard Convertible, and his current project is a 57 Chevy Truck.

Quote:

When I first bought my 59, I immediately joined the NCRS. Seemed the right thing to do at the time. Within a few months of ownership, and having encountered plenty of other NCRS members at local venues, I had my fill of them. I didn't bother to renew the membership.

My experience has been that the biggest collection of azzhats at any automotive venue are the "check writers who live to pick apart lesser cars", followed closely by the "resto only, holier than thou types". There are far too many of both in the NCRS.

I don't see any reason not to mod the original engines. My 1959 CU code 283 now has a 4.00" bore and has been clearanced for a 3.75" stroke. Our 62 was an undesirable, low-horse secretary car, so we bored and stroked it as well. The 62's original 327 block and heads has gone 12.77 in the 1/4 mile. I expect to eventually get it into the 11s. It won't break my heart if I ventilate the block... been contemplating a swap to a late model engine, possibly even a non-GM power plant.

"You're not an enthusiast, you're just a driver. You have no appreciation for the history of the Corvette, and you have no idea what takes to own and maintain one." -

Anonymous NCRS member encountered at a local show.

I couldn't agree more...

Quote:

Great, the friggin speculators are going to drive the prices beyond the reach of the little guy...

It didn't generate a lot of smoke.

Like I said, I was just trying to give a little bit back, and to be honest, I get a perverse satisfaction out of unfuggin what the "you get what you pay for shops" screw-up.

I wasn't expecting to get anything in return. Heck, I wasn't even expecting to like the guy, given my experience with C1/C2 owners at shows. Sometimes, things just work out.

Quote:

I got a lot of help when I was learning, most of it came from people I was never able to return the favor to. I've also been burned a time or two, and to be honest have no faith in the ability of shops to consistently perform as they promise. Meaning, they may do good by customers A, B, and C, but God forbid your the one, unlucky bastard that gets hosed by them. Customers A, B, C will help the shop ride you out of town on a rail...

Anyway, given the help I've gotten in the past, and my "love" of automotive shops, try to help-out when I can.

Well, this guy happened to be a dentist. He was looking at my son's teeth while I was wrenching on his car. I never asked him too, nor did I tell him about my son's teeth. After the first day I wrenched, he offered to do some cosmetic work for my son, and invited us to his cousins place for a BBQ and some horse back riding. I said yeah sure, no problem. This being So Cal, I never expected to hear from him again.

Well, he bugged me incessantly until I agreed to go to the BBQ. After the BBQ, he insited we go to his dental office. He did some leveling work on my son's front teeth and removed a mark that was caused when he fell and hit his teeth as a child. We were previously told by our dentist that the mark was permanent. In a couple hours, he took care of everything. I was quite impressed. Apparently, he does a fair amount of high-end cosmetic work.

Anyway, we get together a few times a month now, mostly BS sessions. He did stop by when I was putting my truck's 383 in the 62... he'll help when he can, and he's the first to volunteer to run to the parts house if you need something.

BTW, he has a set of Cuisinartvette-ported 2 1/2" ramshorn manifolds on his car.

A friend of mine has a pretty nice 1965 L-79 Coupe. He bought the car a while back from an out of state dealer. He over paid for a mis-represented car. He bought what was claimed to be an "older restoration". The car looks good from far, but is far from good. Unfortunately, he bought the car before we met.

I don't want to write a book, so I'll try to keep it short. When the car was delivered, it wouldn't idle, but could be driven by working the gas pedal and the clutch. It couldn't be driven far, because it would over heat.

He took the car to a few high rent, "reputable" shops. You know the kind, way over-priced, a nice assortment of high-end cars parked out front, a wall covered with magazine features about said shop, an owner who interfaces with the customers, and has a hell of a spiel about how he's been doing X-Y-Z for twenty years, and invariably ends it with a menacing "you get what you pay for" line.

Anyway, the first shop changed his perfectly functional OE carb for a new Holley 670 Avenger, then proceded to crank the idle speed screw down to the point the car would stay running, but was off the mixture screws, and would diesel when turned-off. The car was barely drivable and heated up after a short run time. He didn’t cheap out on recommended labor or parts. The car was not fixed. Oh well, you get what you pay for.

Another shop installed an electric fan, a cheesy looking chrome one wire alternator and a mini starter to fix the over heating problem. No dice. The car was still heating up and drove like crap. He didn’t cheap out on recommended labor or parts. The car was not fixed. Oh well, you get what you pay for.

He took the car to another consummate professional, who decided the new Avenger carb was the problem, and replaced it with a 600 Holley. Same deal, idle speed screw cranked way down, to where the car was off the idle circuit and dieseled when shut off. This prfessional also had the foresight to strip his thermostat housing bolt threads in the original L-79 intake. Fortunately, this epitome of the "get what you pay for high end shop", explained that they all leaked when they were new... just monitor your coolant. This rocket scientist also placed a ball bearing in the vac advance hose.

So, my friend posted a thread on CF looking for advice. He had a very expensive piece of garage art that he couldn't drive. Kinda like far too many of the NCRS types that prowl cruise night parking lots and trash talk lesser Vettes, that have the audacity to be driven… but I digress.

I read his story, and felt bad for him. He was quite pizzed at the typical shops, and I was not in the least bit surprised, because when you step-up and spend the big bucks, you get what you pay for. Anyway, although I never met him, I offered to take a look at his car for him. Despite the fact that I am not a professional mechanic, I do not own a high-end shop, I haven't been doing this for 20+ years, and I don't have a "you get what you pay for spiel", I was willing to take a shot at his fixing his car.

Against his better judgement, he brought the car by, but only after some folks over at CF said he ought to let me take a gander at it.

First, I removed the ball bearing from the vac advance line, bumped his initial timing up, and set his mixture screws with a vacuum gauge. His car previously wouldn't idle at less than 1200 RPM. I had it down to a lopey 850 RPM, pulling 10 1/2" vacuum. He was over cammed, but it looked like we were in business. When he shut his car off, it no longer dieseled… surprise, surprise. Could it be that the professionals were wrong... maybe it didn’t have a race cam, and it really didn't need to idle at 1200 RPM? That work took me less than 30 minutes to accomplish. The first 15 were spent trying to convince him to let me take a shot at it.

Now again, I must disclose that I am not a professional, I haven't been doing this for 20+ years, and I absolutely do not have a "you get what you pay for spiel". Nonetheless, for the first time since he had the car, it was able to be driven somewhat normally. The car did still heat-up, however, during the test drive. Anyway, he told me to drive it like I was testing my own car. I told him no problem, I'd be happy too. I slipped the clutch at 3500 RPM and got sideways, and the car got some decent second and third gear rubber. I think he was surprised. He had previously never been able to drive above 40 MPH, because the car would miss and pop. Not being used to driving a late model, I wasn't sure how the independent rear ends were supposed to act in a clutch dump situation.

When we returned from the shake down run, I suggested he go to the junk yard and get a bigger 7 blade fan off a mid-70s AC equipped car, and lose the electric fan. My advice wasn't heeded.

He drove the car more, but limited it to short trips (because of the over-heating). He came by the house and gave me his 670 Avenger carb, I tried to refuse, but he insisted, because I wouldn't let him pay me. So, I bolted it on the 62 while he watched, and had it running. A few tweaks later, and it was perfect. The wife and I drove the 62 to Bowling Green, KY with this so-called junk carb. Oh well, maybe if he'd have paid more, he would have gotten a drivable carb, and you know, gotten what he paid for.
Back on subject. A few weeks ago, I did an in car cam swap for him. I replaced the unk cam with a hydraulic F/T 262 Voodoo cam. The car picked up a few inches of vac at idle, and the low-end and throttle response were greatly improved. However, his car was still heating up. At this point, having played with different temp sending units, and a infra red temp gun, we confirmed the car was in fact running too hot. I was starting to fear he had a cracked head or bock.

Some folks on CF suggested he get a Dewitts radiator, and others suggested a high flow water pump. I suggested he wait, and check his coolant for exhaust in it. He decided to replace his copper-brass unit with the fore-mentioned Dewitt. He also bought a hi-flow water pump. His car still heated-up, but it did take longer to do so… To be fair, Dewitts has a hell of a reputation in the C1 and C2 worlds, and I am taking nothing away from their product here.
In the mean time, I replaced the size 31 shooter that a dyno shop had installed on his 600 Holley carb, with the size 26 shooter off of his OE carb. This change did wonders for the drivability. On the temperture front, he installed a flex fan. It dropped the temps some. They were now hovering in the 215 - 220* range. We tested his coolant for exhaust gas. There was no exhaust getting in the coolant, as such, the heads/gaskets were fine.

He was at his wits end. At this point, I re-suggested he go to the pick your part and get a larger 7 blade fan. He finally did Saturday evening. He called me up Saturday night, excited as a kid at Christmas, telling me his car wouldn't go above 175*. A $10 fan fixed what a few thousand $$$ and a couple professionals couldn't.

Oh well, you get what you pay for.

I need to swap a LSx into one of my cars... I want a smooth idle and an 11 Sec ET...

Bogus, Jan 11 is a better date for me. I'll see you then.

Ron, I'll be working in the garage until around 1:00 PM or so. Joe is coming by at 10:00. Swing by if you'd like. I'm just gathering parts and prepping my engine.

Wes

I won't be going. I spent all day working on my friend's 65. I need to prep my 327 for a trip to the dyno and get the engine loaded in my truck. Maybe I can meet-up you guys in January.

BTW, Ron, have you heard back from Frank about the Blazer?

Quote:
Thanks, I was actually looking for this pic. Quite appropriate for the way things are...

Mei had been wanting another dog (had to have a patch) for quite a while, and I figure they're cheaper than kids, so I said no problem... expecting to get one early next year.

Anyway, we were just walking through one of the aisles at Pomona. The one friggin pup that had a patch made its way through the crowd, and found her. She figured it was a sign, and the rest is history.

So far, so good. The dog is taking to potty training, and doesn't bark or whimper too much. It likes being around people, and isn't shy or timid, both good signs.

The older dog, Bubba, is a bit grumpy and keeps the newb in check when needed.

As I was saying in the other thread, the wife brought a dog home from Pomona...

I can't commit to Long Beach yet, but I'll look into it.

Ron,

I've bought pulleys from that guy before. He used to sell at Pomona too. I didn't see him there yesterday. Hope everything is OK with him. He always seemed to have what I needed, and his parts fit as he said they would.

Ron,

I have to think about it. I have a lot of SHP OE and Vette parts, but I would not sell them cheap. aside from that, I just have a couple cams...

Ron, how much is a booth? I don't particularly like selling parts at swapmeets...

It's a blue nose American terrier. It's white with brownish grey patches and an eye patch (our existing dog is an American Terrier - Dalmation mix (rescue dog) with an eye patch). I'll get some pics up, but the wife is wanting me to wait until we give it a bath.

The hats in white primer as I type. As soon as it's dry to the touch, I'll give it a light pink top coat.

As far as looking for parts goes, I like the LB swapmeet better. I was hoping to find a set of BBC SWP crank and water pump pulleys. My OE SHP BBC pulleys grew feet while my Chevelle was being stored at a friend's house...

I did run into the guy I got the 62 from. The wife told him it was in a magazine. He seemed thrilled, or not.

Well, we went. We took the truck, because the forecasts were calling for rain at 5:00 AM when we got up.

Went out to start the truck, and the cable stop (on the throttle cable) went airborn when I pumped the gas to prime the carb. I couldn't find the damn piece anywhere.

Fortunately, I had a spare new cable, originally bought for my other truck. I swapped it out in the street in front of my house. Not too much a PITA, although it might have gone quicker if I ran a cord for the drop light. After that, it was smooth sailing.

I didn't buy anything. The wife bought an antique stainless Coca Cola Cooler, with a remavable sandwich shelf. It was in decent shape. We were gonna pass until we saw what some other vendors were asking for lesser examples.

I figured if that was all the wife wanted, I got off easy. Well, after that, she bought a straw cowboy hat. She wants me to paint it pink for her, to replace the one that got destroyed during the drive back from CFCI. Not a problem, I can handle that.

BTW, when I paint my engine pulleys and brackets, I bake them in the oven to harden the enamel. I usually start at 150* and work my way up to 300* for the high heat enamels. Since this is regular pink enamel, not high heat engine or brake caliper paint, do you think 200 or 250* would be better for the hat?

Anyway, as we were walking around, there was a family getting rid of some pups. well, we got one of them to. Fuggin A. All I wanted was a cheap points distributor core, some long wire ties, and to check-out the cars, and I forgot to grab a distribtor. I must have passed 50 of them.

On a brighter note, I found a decent 72 Blazer 4WD with a 700R4 and a throttle body injected SBC. The guy was asking $7900. I didn't make an offer, but I might... I'd have to sell my truck and Rochester FI if I did. I had a 69 Blazer when I was in the Corps. Had a lot of fun with it.

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Thank you, I'll give it a shot.

Wes

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PeteK, would that be with the stock outer weights?


Thank you,

Wes

I have a 700R4 of unk origin in our 62. It was rebult by a local shop. It currently upshifts around 5000 - 5100 RPM.

To access my governor, I need to pull the distributor cap, pull the driveshaft, and unbolt the crossmember. As such, trial and error to adjust shift points would be a pain.

Is there a way to ball park what weight/springs to use to get the W-O-T shift point into the 5500 - 5800 range? I have a B and M governor kit to work with.

TIA,

Wes

Car ran good on the shakedown run. Just checked the weather at msn weather. Now they are calling for thunderstorms tomorrow. I went ahead and covered the Vette.

It's supposed to start raining around 9:00 and get heavier around midnight... If it ain't raining in the AM, maybe we'll take the truck.

Edit: Just checked Yahoo weather, and it's saying it will be clear. Wonder why the two forecasts are so different...

Bogus, if you think you're gonna be going let me know. I'm about 80% certain we'll be there, but we'll probably be taking the truck (if the wife comes).

Anyway, I just cleaned and gapped the plugs. I also swapped to my economy/street carb. It will be interesting to see how my plugs look. With the other carb, on this C3B intake, I have 6 somewhat rich to rich plugs and two that look about right. Kinda curious to see how the plugs look with the smaller carb...

Now, I'm off to a road test.

Just checked the weather. Says it's going to rain around midnight, but it isn't calling for rain tomorrow.

I'm planning to go, but trying to decide whether to drive the 72 truck, or the 62 Vette. The truck has a heater and can haul the wagon.

The Vette doesn't have a heater, but can park in the Vette area, which is a better parking locale. However, if I'm going to take the Vette, I need to get off my butt and check the plugs...

...spam fried rice, spam omelettes, stir fried spam and veggies, spam and noodles, spam and mystery meat balls, fried spam and potato balls, and I'm sure I'm missing some.

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Matthew, go ahead and send the dollar. I'll PM you my address. With that said, the wife actually likes spam, and finds many creative ways to serve it. Some of them are palatable.

Now that gas is cheap, I hope the US doesn't get lazy and back off its push for more drilling and alternative energy sources. I'd also like to see more hybrid development (how about a light weight diesel hybrid getting 80+ MPG?)

I'd also like to see more electric vehicle development, and and an electric grid capable of sustaining them... perhaps some more nuke plants are in order.

It would be nice for the US to be able to give the finger to OPEC and Venezuela.