I am happy to report that the Camaro F.W. mod is one mod I have not done... maybe there is still hope for me.

I would turn it on the lathe and get it down to @ .020" above your finish number, then take it to a local engine shop, they can surface it for @! $30.00

If my memory is correct, I "think" you take @ .090" off the face of a Camaro disc, but either way, knock of the 3/32" or so and then the engine shop will B.G the face parallel with the mount flange.

A blanchard grinder would be better, IMO, a surface grinder will give it a slick finish, as opposed to a blanchard which will give it a little grip

I have the 3.42 ZF rear gears,

but I did buy a set of 3.07's recently that I might swap back to for interstate cruises.

I got the .64 but it tachs @ 2600 or so if I recall

OK, I have yanked about 1/3 off the engine, but my plan is to pull the cam out this weekend. I only need to lift out the radiator and ac condenser, and pull the damper.

I bought a new AC compressor, Accumulator and will buy a new AC condenser next week after I look at the stock condenser's condition.

I will start a thread on the re-assembly with pics beginning at the stripped engine,

Also, I have noticed a lot more grunting noises from myself during this repair excursion, I think I'm getting old :-)

Actually I have been pinned by/under a ZF at least twice in one day, so I guess the ZF won.

I will say, I do miss 6th when driving with wild men to Funfest and events, since they like to cruise at 85mph, the TKO is not suited for this.

All this ZF talk makes me nostalgic, a little.

Spending all my nights
All my money doing mods on my car...
Doing anything just to get you off of my mind
But when the morning comes
I'm right back where I started again
Trying to forget you is just a waste of time

Baby come back, any kind of fool could see
There was something in everything about you
Baby come back, you can blame it all on GURU MODS
They was wrong, and we just can't live without you

OK that's my best effort! Tons of info here on GURU, he must return!

I like the red with black wheels, nice, and welcome!

Nice to hear a success story, congrats!

Awesome, your hard work is going to shame me into stripping the front of my engine tomorrow in single digit weather thank you

I do not, sorry

For future reference

I pulled the farthest cap and there is no damage, looks like new, oil starvation typically starves the farthest cap because of insufficient oil pressure. I will pull each cap just for my own peace of mind, and reset the ear main thrust

I took the oil pump apart already and there is no signs of debris going through the gears of the pump, I can not find any cracks in the Melling 10555 which is a very beefy pump

I did not cut the filter open because the oil pump gears looked so good,

I'm still investigating as weather permits,

Well, its a beautiful 62 degrees here in INDY, very abnormal for this time of year,,, soo....

I put the car on the stands and pulled the distributor, flywheel cover, starter, #1 bearing cap and the oil pump cap.

I'm stumped, I see no bearing wear, which pleases me greatly, I saw no issue with the distributor drive, the oil pump to distributor drive shaft, oil pump, oil pump gears, oil pump main cap, nor bearing and nothing, i.e. broken parts in the cam in the pan and no "fuzz" from teh bearings on teh magnetic oil pan bolt.

Weeks ago I blew compressed air into the oil pressure switch and the pressure varied as you would expect when the air nozzle being pulsed up and down, so I ruled the failed switch out.

Next weekend I'll clean the bottom of the engine and scrape off the gasket sealer etc and put the bearing caps back on, I'll probably replace teh oil pump just because.

Depending on weather, I'll start to strip the front of the engine in the next 2-3 weeks "maybe" sooner.

Congrats, I hope it all goes well, I never used the McLeod Bolt ON on a TKO, if it work well, I might go that route as well.

Happy New Year from Indiana, a little snow, no big deal

Bwaaabawaaa, lets hope for a simple oil pump issue,

And,,, it makes you very familiar with your weapons,,

Its a ton of fun and your only cost is @ 3 boxes of ammo

1st Saturuday in January I should pull the pan, "I" hope the oil pump is bad,, because if it's something catastrophic, I'll buy a 434 or 454 short block and Mr,. Visa will have to take "charge" of the sitiation !

If the latter occurs, my mail be will be forwarded to the couch, dog house ,shed or local homeless shelter, not of my own doing.

Short Barrel Rifles are typically used by ATF for CQB, Close Quarters Battle,, like raiding a drug house etc.

In our world, we use them to shoot in Steel Matches where you shoot at 4" , 6", 8" and silhouette targets for speed/time counts. You can use pistol, rifle or shotgun, but rifle caliber must be .22, 9mm, .40, or .45 cal

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xiZ_dYP3Ro

Dedicated 9mm AR, 5.8" barrel and yes, my Gemtech silencer will be added when my stamp arrives, I'm waiting on the ATF

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for sure,, I have to pull the oil pan first to figure out the low oil pressure issue,and providing that is an oil pump failure, of which I'll post pics, then I'll move to the cam swap.

Probably start in a couple of weeks.

Seems most everyone here is pretty car savvy, so I'll start a new thread when I get it started, its hard to be motivated right now with 8" of snow outside and a freezing garage, bu I do have a gas heater that I fire up in the winter, its great for heating teh garage from your calves up.

Any interest in a cam install thread?

I'm going to leave the engine in the car this time and remove the rads, I'm going to put the car on the stands in the next several days, so I'll take pics if anyone cares.

Got a plan,,,,

Spoke with Bullet Cams, and emailed Lloyd Elliott back n forth, but it appears that Bullet will regrind my cam to a 228/234 on 114 LS w/.612 lift.

the overlap will be reduced from 75 degrees to 58 degrees @ .006

Or from 16 degrees down to 3 degrees at .050"

Should be able to tune out the rest.


EDIT: If someone wants to buy this cam, then I would sell it and grind a new one. made 428rwhp/458rwtq to be exact.

I have considered the 195's but I don't want to do a complete rebuild really

Thanks, your cam has 65 degrees of overlap, just an FYI

I would like to stay at 230 intake duration at a minimum, I know that I had a 228 intake duration once and my HP was low, like 385 RWHP

Tonight I tested the Sensor with my air hose, it works fine, checked the holes for debris and they are fine.

I'll pull the distributor next after I get Christmas stuff out of the attic, then put it on the ramps and then drain the oil, then pull the pan

I put a heater in my garage 3-4 years ago, so I'll fire it up and clean up the engine bay and pull what I need to little by little, I plan on putting a new cam in so I might pull the engine or install the cam with the engine in place by pulling the rad, I have all new AC stuff so I need to pull the AC heat exchanger anyway.

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How much idle fuel smell do you have ? I agree 224 is small

I thought I saw some Zombies around the car a couple of days ago,,

seriously, my "hope" is that the distributor or oil pump is the issue, I'll pull the dizzy Saturday and drain the oil, put it on the ramps

I already emailed Lloyd Elliot about a cam and he recommends a cam in the 224/intake duration, which will really kill my HP, but my goal will be to increase TQ to get @ 500-RWTQ or more

You mean ground from chassis to engine?

I can tell by reading the info, does the McLeod have a travel limiter to prevent it from popping off?

So, I cleaned up the car, after having it painted in July/August, loaded it up with some AR's, AK's, Sniper Rifles and was gonna head to the local Range to practice shooting Zombies, in case the Mayans are right,,,,

We load up, plug in some James Gang, back out of the driveway, and the I hear a "clack" noise once, My Favorite Martian antennae go up to full "what the crap was that" mode, and I drive for @ 1/8 mile and the oil pressure light goes off. I rev teh car, no change my oil pressure was 35 psi now its 10-psi with no change when I rev it. So we drove back in, parked it, moved the guns and ammo to the GMC Terrain and went to the range where i took out my frustration on lots of paper Zombies

We all know what this means, I'm hoping the oil pump took a dump, or maybe the new FAST Distributor gear has an issue, either way, I'll be getting dirty this winter during the down time. I will pull the cam and go to a High TQ monster cam too because I'm tired of jacking with the fuel smell at idle and trying to tune it out.

Just another day in paradise

You rock dude, I hope it works !

Just a thought, I put a long SS brake line on the bleed side of the Howe, then i pout a speed bleeder on it, and it would allow me to bleed the Howe or put fresh fluid in whenever I wanted, except I only had my Howe on for 2-3 weeks

Also, tonight I found the Wilwood Clutch Master in the box, I forgot I had it. I like it much better than the stock masters, I might put it back on some day

Oh yeah, a tree

Its more about having access to metal working stuff, anything can be made with teh right equipment, time and money :-)

Good luck!

If you think you need a clutch pedal travel stop, I have that too.

an "F" drill is .257"

The through/cross holes is .250" ID

I was leaning towards door # 2 Monty!

If I recall, you might have to shorten the threaded male Wilwood rod a fuzz to get the stock female on and still have the clutch pedal at the right height, just something to look at. I think i shortened my stock female coupe @ 1/2", its been a while my memory is foggy on that

It went into the USPS mail this morning, should arrive Thursday

You can't cut corners when hunting Zombies, one false move and your walking with a limp and a blank stare on your face, sort of

I will mail it USPS priority mail Monday so you will have it THursday.. its nothing fancy but it works perfectly

Received my EOTech XPS2-0 & 3X Magnifier today, I ordered a Flip Mount for the magnifier as well.

This is my first Eotech, I have 4 Aimpoint and I wanted the Eotech for my SBR build, I like the fact that I can look around the Eotech and acquire the do quickly, but I cant test it until my upper and stamp gets here.

I bought a Wilwood Master and made a spacer that went between the firewall and Wilwood, I can give you the spacer if you want it.





http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinder ... mpact%20Master%20Cylinder

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I don't know, I will take a laser reading after a long drive on the MSD out of curiosity, summer time would be better, but I could see how hot the MSD box gets.