vetteoz wrote:
It goes into Power Enrichment(PE ) mode which is not OL

Read
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/diy ... -p730-target-afr-how.html

iCorvette wrote:
Quote:

movnviolation wrote:
Trailered my car to L.A. and left it with Express auto for a week and picked it up last Saturday. Car smokes (hauls ass) in the lower areas but loses a little at 3800 ft., where I live.
Jorge leaned it out where it was fat and fattened it out where it was too lean. Tweaked i8t here and there and drove about a half tank of gas driving and tuning it.
Both time I was there he had at least four Vettes, and two Camaros in there.
My thanks to Mason (iCorvette) for the information.

Glad to have been able to point to in the right direction....

I believe your ECM will compensate for high altitude high but not extreme, the fuel curve should be right, it will fatten it, and if you disconnect the battery once it may initiate a learn mode an lock into your habits and environment....my 2 cents

hows the gas mileage?( if it really matters)....

movnviolation wrote:
Trailered my car to L.A. and left it with Express auto for a week and picked it up last Saturday. Car smokes (hauls ass) in the lower areas but loses a little at 3800 ft., where I live.
Jorge leaned it out where it was fat and fattened it out where it was too lean. Tweaked i8t here and there and drove about a half tank of gas driving and tuning it.
Both time I was there he had at least four Vettes, and two Camaros in there.
My thanks to Mason (iCorvette) for the information.

TonyMamo wrote:
Joe,

Speak to ten different engine builders and you will get seven different opinions at least. A 106 LSA is great for a small motor in an effort to boost its torque output....a 350 or smaller yet can only produce "X" amount of torque and a tight LSA helps to fatten it up some but it also adds a fair amount of overlap which effects low RPM part throttle, idle quality, and fuel economy....everything a street car would have concern with. Its great for a road race application where economy, part throttle, and idle quality has no concern and helps a car come off a corner much harder but there is no free lunch because it does effect the other aspects I mentioned as well as falling off alot faster than a wider LSA cam.

With your displacement, you will have more midrange torque than you can probably hook well on street tires anyway....I would cam it with a wider LSA to reduce overlap some and improve the aspects of street performance I mentioned above.

Take the same 400 CID combo and run a 230/236 cam on a 106 LSA....if you installed a 234/240 cam and ran it on a 110, the larger cam would actually have better idle quality and better low RPM part throttle driving manners, and it would destroy it in peak and after peak power with the added duration and the wider LSA positioning the intake closing point later in the cycle. The 106 LSA cam would make 20 ft lbs more torque in the 3500-4000 range but I would rather have better driving manners and 20 more HP (peak) with 35+ more HP past peak at your shift point. The average power in the range you would likely run WOT would be improved (say from 4000 - 6500) and it would actually be cleaner around town (less surging and those types of issues). The fact I lose a little torque in the middle of the curve (especially with a big motor that has more than enough) is a trade-off I'm willing to have for better driving manners and a stronger top end charge.

Regarding your flat tappet solid making more power than a modern fast ramp hydraulic roller I really have to beg to differ there. The ramp rates are faster and the modern hydraulic roller will lift the valve more tapping into the meat of the AFR 195's flow curve (.550 + is more ideal). At the very least spending a bunch more time in crank degrees at 280+ CFM).

The only advantage a flat tappet solid has is clean higher RPM capability but the reality is our new Eliminator stuff is so good now with all the lightweight components and lightweight hyd. roller springs, you can buzz it cleanly to 6700 or so and with the cam size you are considering thats more RPM than you will likely be able to use anyway so the fact you could spin your flat tappet mechanical to 7000 is a waste....it will have nosed over hard many RPM's before that. Once again....besides the added power a hyd. roller has zero maintenance and your not biting your nails for 25 mins hoping it breaks in properly either (I don't miss that!).

Flat tappet stuff is old school honestly....the only reasons to consider running it are cost and class rules that sometimes say a flat tappet style cam is all you can run.

Wes Migletz tested his AFR headed 392 on the engine dyno (when we compared the Dart/AFR/and ported GM heads) and with the exact same heads and just swapping to a modern hyd. roller I believe picked up something like 25 HP....it was a huge gain over his solid flat tappet grind.

In short, building extremely capable pump gas street combinations is an area I spend (and have spent) alot of time developing. Some of this related to my own projects over the last 25 years as my primary source of fun has been more the street than all out track oriented applications (although I know how to make them run hard as well).




Just ask Cusinart Vette who got a ride in my C5.....perfect driving manners around town....slight burble at an idle, and all hell breaks loose at WOT. Car traps 130 MPH with a 91 octane 383 combo....with a 114 LSA cam btw :thumbleft:

Also, one last thing with LSA....I have noticed the EFI engines with good heads dont respond the same to narrow LSA gains like carbed applications generally would...alot of people that are in the narrow LSA camp are looking at data surrounding carb'ed applications. With a good cylinder head and EFI you want to spread those lobes. Look at the latest trends from the OEM's as well.....117 and higher and these engines are producing great power for their given displacement and mild nature of the package.

-Tony

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

iCorvette wrote:

no problem, is seeing 100 on the water good enuff?

To drive or go racing?

Depends on the application. Track only cars run different sidewall clearance than street cars.

Call the manufacturer and ask them. They will probably tell you to wait until the thermostat opens at least once, because that saves them from liability if you blow up your motor.

Well not really blow up. I've taken apart motors with piston skirts in the pan and nobody noticed. Ignorance is bliss.

-- Joe

dan0617 wrote:
Quote:

anesthes wrote:
wait until the thermostat opens at least once,
-- Joe

That is what I do when starting and driving the car when it is cold out, like below 50 degrees. I'm sure the small warm-up time helps the trans some too.

iCorvette, my motor has about 1500 miles on it, and I do now use synthetic oil.

Easiest way to figure it out, if you want to know exactly. Go pull everything off your valve covers. Plug all the holes but one. Start the car when cold. Notice how much blow-by there is. You will be able to see smoke drifting out the valve cover hole that you didn't plug and will feel it blowing a little with your hand. You will be surprised at how much blow-by there is on a cold engine with forged pistons. Let the car warm up, walking back and forth so you can keep an eye on the water temp (or oil temp if you prefer, that would be better) and the blow-by. You will notice the blow-by lessening as the car warms up. When the blow-by has quit getting less, see what the gauge says. Figure a few extra degrees, and now you know what temp your pistons have expanded fully and you are ready to go hammer on it.

bizaro wrote:

anesthes wrote:
Obviously few of you build engines.

Cast pistons have the tightest wall clearance, because they expand less than forged. OEM uses them because they are cheap, and can be fitted with a tighter clearance and won't rattle when cold.

Forged pistons expand when they heat up, which depends on how much silicone alloy is mixed in. The manufacturer will specify what the wall clearance, and you measure this when performing the final hone to fit the pistons correctly.

When a piston has too much wall clearance, it can rock. Most heads position the plug so that the combustion will take place more toward the exhaust valve.

Hammering a cold motor with too much piston to wall clearance causes the skirts to break off the piston and fall into the oil pan.



-- Joe

dan0617 wrote:
Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
"Warming up" basically any engine is unnecessary. Just start it and drive.

Once the oil is circulating, there's no need to sit there and idle, it just causes more wear on the engine, not less.

My definition of warming it up is to let the oil temp start registering before I lay any rubber down.

I don't warm up for very long at all, but this is a little aggressive even for me!

When I first fire the car I let it warm up for about 30 seconds. I drive normal till it gets to about 160 water, then I am not afraid to hammer on it. I have forged pistons too.

Stl94LT1 wrote:
Quote:

Durango_Boy wrote:
From what I've experienced you can start it and drive immediately, but don't drive aggressively before it's warmed up a bit. The pistons will warm up faster than the water, same with the valves, so don't think of it as an engine temp thing.

I agree!! But, before I run the car hard I wait for 160* oil temps which are more important that the coolant temps at the point.

dan0617 wrote:
I don't rely on the bolts to center the gasket, I spray a coppercoat spray on the back of the gasket then stick it to the heads and perfectly align the gasket with the intake ports on the heads. I then put the intake base on, start the bolts, then look down the runners at the head ports and slide it backwards or forwards to get it to line up, then bolt it down. Everything is perfectly 1205 sized and all lines right up.

Where are you seeing the blue printoseal, on the outside of the intake or inside the ports? If inside the ports I would think maybe they installed 1204 gaskets instead of 1205's.

Ooh, and if you are using AFR 195 street ports they do call for 1205's and if you installed 1205's there will be no turbulence if they are lined up exact. The bolt holes in the gaskets do allow for a little play. If you bought AFR 195 Comp ports I think they are 1206 ports and you would need 1206 gaskets then you would need to check to make sure your intake covers the port holes and doesn't leave them stick out the top, right under the top of the valve cover gaskets.

tjpreul wrote:
My car has a solid top painted black. It looks like a glass top until you get close or sit in it.

Curtis1974 wrote:
I too have two cracks on mine on both driver side and the passenger side. I rarely have top on anyway as it is in the garage or drove on nice days only. I'll probably replace it at some point but I would like a new exhaust first and maybe some new rims too. A new top is so expensive.

BillH wrote:
Quote:

Livin_the_dream wrote:
I have it in my 88

Cool, so then it's on the 89 too.

iCorvette, when you get to the shop, check to see if that button's working.

Normally, the belt should reel in and out freely unless you hit something and the G force locks it.
The button's spring loaded, I'd check if it's in the "up" position. Then pull the belt out a bit, push the button and see if it locks. You should not be able to pull the belt out further but it should retract normally.
If you let the belt retract, this should reset the button and return everything to normal operation.

Durango_Boy wrote:
Really, there are only two things to worry about, the chamber in the head and the piston head face. The cylinder walls are constantly scraped and cleaned by the piston rings and the combustion itself helps keep the cylinder walls free of buildup.

The piston head faces and the combustion chamber usually get a coating of carbon, from the combustion process, but that can be resolved with a good mixture and properly set timing. engines with good mixture and timing run much cleaner.

If you are worried there is a buildup of black carbon, you can aid in it's removal two easy ways.

Spritz some water into the intake while it's running, a spray every few seconds, and it will clean out some of the built up carbon. Seafoam is also a good product, sucked in through vacuum lines, to help clean things out.

klkordzi wrote:
Mine also has a crack that I tried to repair. I drilled a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it from progressing and used a two part epoxy but did it with the top off the car and it cracked again. Since then I have also seen other posts where people suggested using fiberglass powder. When I try mine again I'm gonna do it with it bolted in place.

ptreaster wrote:
I'm a first time 'Vette owner (after many years of dreaming) and while it has some defects, its mine.
Paint is flaking where the previous owner tried to paint it and failed, but its mine.
I knew owning a Corvette would be cool, but wow.

Here is the link to my picasa page on google.
http://picasaweb.google.com/ptreaster/Corvette#

BillH wrote:
Is there a black button on the belt housing beside the seat?

BillH wrote:
What year?
Some, including my 92, have a "cinch" buttom on the seatbelt housing. This locks the seatbelt but not the shoulderbelt.

jdtireman wrote:
Only good option on a cracked top is tp repair and paint it to match the body color. Even if you spend $500 to do it, that's only half the cost of a new unit from Ecklers or MA.

bastet44 wrote:
When mine cracked, we replaced it. I believe it's lexan and not glass.

mseven wrote:
Aside from everything else I've done to the car, this is one of the best mods.........and for the purists, one more way to de-value a corvette, LOL
should have the new leather "boot" back today to finish the details
[IMG]http://i31.tinypic.com/1zl9c2w.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i32.tinypic.com/245yhpe.jpg[/IMG]

CentralCoaster wrote:
Yeah, stock ones suck because they have metal sandwiched in them and are a bitch to trim.

The edelbrock catalog though implies they were "hi flow" which is b.s. Their hi-flow intake has the same size port openings as the stock runners.

The accel superram base btw is the same casting as the edelbrock, except the port openings are larger.

CentralCoaster wrote:
I bought these ones, but they're the same size as stock. Bleh.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-3866/?image=large

I *think* you need these ones instead:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-3866/?image=large

movnviolation wrote:
Any one know of this shop in Santee, San Diego area? I am looking at these people as my last stop before I pull the Miniram off and go Carb.
I can not get Diacom, or Tuner Pro soft ware to load or work so I can send Data to TPIS for a chip.
A dyno tuner would probably be the best due to they could run data test and burn chips there. It would be costly, but the money I have in my car now, whats the difference.
I am about 1 1/2 hours away and would trailer my car there. My car is running to lean to drive the distance.

Thanks