Does anybody know if the standard blue locktite (thread locker) will work, or do I need something specific. I was also thinking of using "a little" epoxy if you think the blue locktite will just run out of the bore and not help to hold the cap.

DG

Quote:

This is for a plow truck so I am hoping I don't have to spend anymore on this rust bucket. I remember reading they go for about $75 a piece.

I will try the dimple idea. I tried pressing the joints up and down before to relieve some of the stress but they were really, really tight... which is why I decided to hone out the bores. There is no way I could have relieved the stress in any other way, IMHO.

Dan

I like the locktite idea but I see they make a couple of different one for use with "cylindrical issues." Will any of these work?

DG

This is in the 85 ford F350 I just bought. I am so pissed.... Stupid mistake.

Its one of the front axles. I am thinking of JB welding it in.

DG

First off I would like to start by wishing everybody a Happy Thanksgiving!

I am replacing U-joints in one of my vehicles (cough*cough*). So after about 2 days of PB Blaster and hammering I got the old ones out of the half shafts. I bought a new set from Advance Auto... Brute Force U-joints. I went to press in the new u-joints and realized that there is so much rust and corrosion that the cap would not fit though the hole. The first one I got in was so tight the shaft was binding like a rock. So I pulled it back out and decided to "hone" the hole. I honed both sides. The first side had a nice tight fit and did not bind... perfect operation. But the opposite end of the u-joint... lets just say I got a little carried away. The U-joint cap does not move around in the bore of the half shaft, but I can push the cap in and out with my finger effortlessly. It did not need to be pressed in at all... it didn't even need any persuasion.

My concern is that the cap is going to vibrate around in the bore thus damaging either the half shaft (its not aluminum thankfully) or the cap itself, making the gap bigger and eventually damaging the u-joint. Is this a vaild concern. And if so how do I fix this situation?

Happy Thanksgiving,

Dan

I have the "super rare" two pin obd1 port. It takes an extra special scan tool.

Went to autozone, advance auto, midas, firestone, sears, nobody has this scan tool.

I have been doing alot of reading online...

These are the things I don't think it could be

Fuel Pump or Filter (the fuel pressure was good)
MAF, TPS, EGR, Coolant Temp Sensor (didn't act any different when unpluged)
O2 sensor (still runs like crap in open loop, and 02 sensors don't work until closed loop)
Spark Plugs and Wires (look good and are new)
Clogged Cat (I have really good vacuum)
Bad Gas (Replaced the gas new gas)


These are the items I feel are of concern....

1. I am thinking it could be the Knock Sensor. Can these cause this type of disturbance at a low rpm, yet smooth out issues at a high rpm?

2. Injectors leaking when the vehicle is running?

3. Crank position sensor... just because I am not sure how it works or what it does, and what the symptoms are....

Anybody care to clarify?

Dan

I know,... this is crazy though.. I ruled out alot of stuff and I am not sure what the heck is wrong. I may have to pull the trigger on that scan tool. I just hate to buy something I know I am never going to use.


Just did a fuel pressure test, and its within spec

DG

I am stumped on this one. I hope somebody can help.

1995 Monte Carlo Z34 3.4L DOHC V6

On Saturday I stopped for gas at Shell and filled the tank with 89 octane. Got about 3 miles up the road and the sound of the engine began to change. It got really deep and loud, sounded like the exhaust loosed up (but it didn't), a mile further up the road the car began losing power, felt like it was being held back. I was cruising/struggling along at about 60MPH, which took about 65% throttle to achieve. I thought i got bad gas so I ran it out, and replaced it with 93 octane sunoco, a can of octane boost, and a can of fuel injector cleaner. The car still has no power. Bogs if you give it any gas from a dead stop, and continues to bog and struggle all the way up to 4000RPM. Then around 4000RPM at WOT it feels like its beginning to struggle less and it picks up some speed. At 5000k at WOT it feels like it did before the problem began, it has power, sounds healthy.... then it shifts, bogs like crazy, and struggles all through the next gear until 4000RPM.

I did a vacuum test to check the cat, vacuum is good at idle and excellent at 2500RPM.

I unplugged the MAF an TPS, no change

I used my GM Spark Plug tool to check spark (coil packs). Spark is bright blue, looks healthy.

Check engine light is on, but I never bought the ridiculously expensive scan tool for the vehicle so I cannot check it (OBD 1.5).

Gas was removed and replaced with 93 octane Sunoco

Wires and plugs have 8K on them....

What the heck would cause this?

Dan

Quote:

Yea, seemed like mostly a gimmick to me too. The bottle is very pretty. I really don't think engine oil is going to get much better than the synthetic stuff already on the market. I know my car is still running fine at 200K miles +, what more could edge really do for me?

Dan

I have been using Castrol Syntec forever. I think the protection it offers my engine is already overkill... although I really wouldn't know,... none of us really do. But it makes me feel better to know I am running a full synthetic in my vehicle because of the extra protection it offers.

So I recently noticed Castrol Edge on the shelf. Supposed to be the premier performance/protecting motor oil available from Castrol. I normally don't keep up with this sort of thing but I guess it sparked my interest. Does anybody know anything about this stuff or what makes it different/better?

Just wondering,

Dan

Quote:

If your in a Metro area, or Commute to one, you are going to want to strip the car.

DG

Hello everybody,

Sorry I haven't been around lately; my job is basically sucking the life out of me. Today was the first day in a while I had some free time. Time I specifically took out to tackle a project that was LONG Overdue. Its finally time, after 4 years, to res erect my 71 Chevelle.

The car has been sitting for the past four years! A tragedy, I know. The result of a tire falling off, and doing some decent damage as you will see from the pictures below. Shortly followed by a baffled attempt at restoring the vehicle. A story I don't tell to often (embarrassed about it); I was basically con-ed out of my engine and transmission by a scumbag engine builder. Unable to re-coupe my losses, I ran out of funds shortly after, and so the vehicle sits till today, in the woods....

I have been putting money aside little by little, and with the recent pending sale of my Impala, It's finally time to dive back into this project.

FLASH PRODUCTS....

Flash really has a great product line, both commercially and for the enthusiast. I have been using more and more of Joe's products lately, not only because they work, but because they are extremely cost effective, and because the customer service is quite possibly the best I have had, period. Do I have other products that are capable of tacking the job I did today and may have even provided equal or slightly better results... absolutely, but I am enjoying trying new flash products because they are easy to use and inexpensive.

Today I must say, CHERRY BOMB REALLY IMPRESSED ME. Another great flash "must have." Along with Super Scent Deodorizer. And you will see why in just a moment.

After 4 years of sitting in the woods, I pulled the car out. Mice had made there way into the car, bringing nuts, and leaving them all over my floor, and using my headliner as bedding. The mice attracted snakes which left skins in my glove box, and the spiders decided it would make a great home too. The car is 30+ years old so it leaks... My white and black interior was covered in mold.....

[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009005.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009006.jpg[/IMG]
Rust bubbles all over the car
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009007.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009008.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009013.jpg[/IMG]
This is what happens when your wheel falls off at 30 mph. Don't buy cheap Chinese parts. This is the result of a set of rotors purchased off ebay!
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009014.jpg[/IMG]
Now for the interior mess!
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009009.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009010.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009011.jpg[/IMG]
Ready to grow mushrooms..
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009017.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009019.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009018.jpg[/IMG]
THE SOLUTION
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009024.jpg[/IMG]
CHERRY BOMB MIXED SLIGHTLY STRONGER THAN SUGGESTED FOR UPHOLSTERY WITH HOT WATER, AND PLACED IN A PPG SPRAY GUN...
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009025.jpg[/IMG]
YO DIS IS HOW I ROLL!
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009026.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009029.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009027.jpg[/IMG]
Then I got in there with a power washer.... The results speak for themselves... Interior looks and smells great!
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009030.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009031.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009032.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/Chevelle2009033.jpg[/IMG]

Two Thumbs up on this product guys... Smells great, and kills everything.

DG

And if your interested in purchasing an Impala so you can have a need to frequent the NAISSO store more often... mines up for grabs

DG

I don't have my 89 anymore but if I remember correctly, you cannot just route the belt without a pulley in place.... and if you do you need to move up the alternator. Otherwise I think the belt will slip. Others will chime in, just be patient.

Dan

Just ordered two more gallons of brown royal and a few other products I liked when I used the samples Joe gave me. I tried the aqua gloss again recently and I didn't have any luck with it. But seeing as Joe had great success in the picture above I may be applying it improperly or something. Might be user error? In any event, the customer service over at Flash is just outstanding.... and that is more enough to keep me trying new things. This is a great company to work with, and Joe is a stand up guy. Can't wait to get my stuff in the mail!!!!!

Dan

That is def. redneck racing at its finest... done on a town road, that's not even flat.

Can't say I wouldn't love to do it!

DG

The Monte Carlo Lives...

Andy is the winner, guessing that one of the pulleys failed. The timing belt tensioner seized Causing the belt to shred. I bought a new pulley set, a timing belt, and a few gaskets and I am back on the road with 204K miles....

I see an L67 in my future though... I am really getting tired of dealing with this 3.4L DOHC.

Dan

Come back

TWO YEARS...?

DG

Simply amazing to me. I just don't understand what goes though peoples minds sometimes. Now he's really going to have a hard time selling that car.

Internet Muscles!

DG

I obviously didn't learn my lesson from last time. I should know better than to even look at cars on the other site. I am thinking about another Vette... This is a good reminder as to why you don't buy anything on CF.

I really wish we had a larger C6 base on here. I find it hard sometimes to get the information I need here to very specific C6 questions... its the only reason I still even lurk on the other site. But as you will notice I rarely post... This is why.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3s-f ... crate-motor-11-900-a.html

Wow, for once I was right on target. I thought I was missing something so I didn't want to take it out of context, but......

I need in on that Holiday... whats the official date... Let the milking begin (pun intended).

DG

I find a 16 year old wanting a PT cruiser a little strange... but I can't really talk I guess (see avatar). I try to stick with Big 8's or quick 6's. Is he a car enthusiast? I know they make turbo kits and such for that car. Maybe he's got an ulterior motive you are not aware of.

DG

Hopefully we have a couple of New Yorkers on the site here. I was wondering if anybody knew how, if it all, I could register a motor vehicle in New York, and obtain the title immediately or within a couple of days. I want to register a vehicle, but I do not want the state to hold the title for 6 months... I need it right away.

I would read the NYSDMV website, but A. Its so much easier to ask here, and B. When you look in the dictionary under Cluserf*ck, the NYSDMV website address appears.

Thanks,

Dan

Congrats!!

Looks like you did very very well... Way cool chick...



Quote:

Huh?? I must be missing something... At least... I hope I am... Otherwise, sounds like an awesome deal to me... I like steak... Not nearly as much as I like the other part
(I really can't wait till JeffVette stumbles across this thread)

You may want to clarify that one... Or maybe not??

Again Congrats,

Dan

Bill,

Thanks again for all the tips!!! I decided to get out there today, and try the wet sanding and buffing method I normally use for old paint. Worked like a charm. The results of the tank and side covers are outstanding. I am very surprised to be honest. I can honestly say it came out better (using spray cans) then the local (so called) body shop would have done for double the cost. Check out the pics... These were taken during.
I first sanded on a rubber block using 1500 grit 3M
Then I hit the edges and rounded areas with 2000 grit
Checked the level of the clear by wiping with a squeegee and and looking to see all the shiny-ness was gone. When I got it down to an "acceptable" level (remember, spray cans aren't able to lay clear the same thickness as a gun), I polished it out..
First with Meguiars Ultimate Compound on a Orange Pad
Finishing with Menzerna 106FF on white....

DG
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank021.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank022.jpg[/IMG]
Lovin the metal flake!
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank023.jpg[/IMG]

Well, got out there and laid the paint and clear down today. I must say, I am pleasantly surprised with the outcome of the tank. I did make a mistake I am hoping I can fix, but overall, the paint laid down perfectly. The clear on the other hand gave me a little trouble. Its a really watery clear and it dripped off the take in the absolute worst spot. Notice Pic #3, you can't see it, but all along the bottom edge of the tank you can see drips. I am an excellent cut and buff, but I also know how thin Rattle can clear is to start out with. So I don't know if even I will be able to remove the clear without running down to the paint. Its going to be a really tough cut and buff!

Take a look...

DG

[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank016.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank019.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank017.jpg[/IMG]

That's is the coolest video I have ever seen!

Looks like I have some catching up to do... Monte's only at 204K and she decided to take a break for a little while.

DG

Nice Whips! Welcome to the site

DG

Seems like you took the proper precautions, I personally would not sweat it. Did all the rockers look like that, or was it just a few?

DG

Ok, pictures as promised....

This is it installed (never realized how dusty it was till I took the pics... sorry)
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank003.jpg[/IMG]
This is it booting up (very cool)
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank004.jpg[/IMG]
This is Sirius (60's on 6, loud and clear! )
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank006.jpg[/IMG]
Dan

Thanks for the tips Bill. That's a really sick helmet by the way (I can't believe that's rattle can'd, your obviously gifted) I went back to the store today, after reading online and realizing that the primer I had wasn't going to work, so I picked up the correct stuff, and a tube of 2part Icing.

I had a few dents in the tank. One really bad on on the right hand side, and two tiny dings on the top. The top left ding got Bondo and Icing, while the other side just got icing.

I am not feeling too confident after icing and sanding down the tank with a sanding block. The tank feels smooth to the touch, but when I looked at it after priming it, there are area's that look wavy and uneven. Yet when I run my hand across the tank it feels smooth, and straight. I am wondering if when I paint this thing it will look wavy or if it is an optical illusion because the primer is light than the icing and the icing is showing through the primer. To test my there I heavily guide coated the tank. Looks good guide coated. It will still need a final 400 buff before I seal it up and paint it on Saturday.
Had this been a door or a hood I think that the blocking would have been a HECK of a lot easier, but this tank has so many contours, I am just not sure how to tackle it properly. Whats a good "rule of thumb?"

Take a look at the pictures of today's efforts. I don't have any bondo or dent pics. sorry,

DG

[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank008.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank009.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank010.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank011.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank012.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank012.jpg[/IMG]
Done for tonight....
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank013.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank014.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r97/BG528/MotorcycleGasTank015.jpg[/IMG]

Good to hear, hopefully there is actually some truth to it.

I can confidently say one thing for sure, they build a hell of a sports car, I don't have a single complaint... not even one. Buying this last Vette has helped me to regain just a little bit of confidence in the brand, at least on a product level. (just a tid bit of confidence)

DG

Hey Bill, Thanks for the tips... I think I follow. I will list what I think the process is real quick just to be sure

1. Sand down tank with 80 Grit
2. Sand down side covers and fenders with 220 grit followed by 400 grit
3. Fill in dents on tank with bondo
4. Take down Bondo, and finish with icing.
5. High build primer the tank and side covers and let sit overnight
6. Block everything with 400 grit, then 600 grit
7. Wipe down with lint free rag
8. Paint stuff, applying a thin even coat
9. Let paint tack up, and reapply another thin even coat
10. Let paint dry overnight
11. Clear with thin even coat, wait 2 hours, and clear again with thin even coat
12. Wetsand and buff

Am on on the right track? I am still a little unsure of how to apply the coats

DG

I don't think they are worth much, maybe a couple hundred so I would probably keep them. I still have my C4 wheels and the C4 is long gone... hehe

DG

Ok,

I took a break from this project because of the damaged Monte Carlo, the Impala being sold, and the bike being restored; I seem to have bit off more than I can chew once more.

The unit is installed, if I remember tomorrow I will post a picture. It looks ridiculously cool. I ironed out all the lack of power and ground issues by using a ground behind the dash, and using the "spare" fuse AKA exhaust fuse for my power wires. The HD radio works, I figured out how to get the AM/FM working, Sirius is awesome and the antenna's are stored under the rear spoiler. Reception is about 90% with her losing reception about 10% of the time, which I can deal with considering the car is made out of plastic and the antenna is covered by plastic. The static is still there. I found an error in the GMCO directions... I should have never cut the RCA's off. I am going to buy a New GMCO, probably as soon as I finish writing this (I forgot till you reminded me), and then maybe in a week or two when things settle down I will install it; hopefully the static will be gone. There will still be static from the amp but I am told there is no fix for this, and I think it was there at times when the stock stereo was in. Only problems I am still faced with are 1. The static, and 2. I don't know why but I have absolutely no antenna signal and thus no Navigation whatsoever, and I would agree my antenna is poorly mounted, but so is my Sirius antenna and I get perfect sirius about 90% of the time. Anybody who knows this unit care to take a crack at that one?

Dan

Oh, I filled the cylinders with air thought the spark plug hole. Obviously there was a slight air escaping sound coming out of all the exhaust and intake, but no massive leaks.

DG

Quote:

Supposedly this is a "non-interference" engine, but the clearances are ridiculously tight. As I mentioned in my previous post, I will already be in the hole for $$$ spent on parts, so I might as well turn it over and give it a try. I don't see this whole setup in here much longer, my transmission is on its last leg, and I am not interested in installing yet another 4T60E (junk).

DG

Quote:

True, and I am not going to lie and tell you I thought about that because I didn't. But my thinking was that the air in the cylinders would compress showing a reading on the gauge, and if the cylinders bled off or didn't build at all I would know something was wrong.

In any event, there is no point in waiting to install the new belt just to do a compression test. At the point where i buy the pulleys and tensioners I am already a couple hundred in the whole. I already have most the parts, just waiting on a couple of gaskets. Might as well throw it back together and see if she runs. My goal is to just get a few more thousand miles out of this engine, and then look into "something else."

DG

Quote:

I was quoted $350, assuming that I handed the body shop everything already sanded. That's ridiculous.. I rather gamble with $100 first. Plus if it comes out good, I get the satisfaction of doing it myself.

I feel more confident this time around because my Center Console came out AMAZING!



Quote:

I have been reading online about using solvents to prep the area prior to painting. Long story short, some solvents get caught up in the primer and then when you paint the out-gas and cause bubbles.
BUT I don't think this is the case. I feel like the Base Coat Out-gasing is causing the bubbles. But I am not sure how to fix this problem. Keep in mind I have not painted this tank yet. These are previous paint jobs gone bad. Just trying to "prevent" this from happening.
I usually follow the directions or tech sheet. In this case I was not given a tech sheet.

Quote:

Again, good question. I usually follow the tech sheet; in this situation I am not provided with one. How long should I wait in between coats? Show the coats go on light and thin, or heavy and thick? How long should I wait before clearing? How should the clear go on, thick or thin?

Thanks,

DG

Good Call Bogus,

[IMG] http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/get ... kauto.com/Dayco/84068.jpg [/img]

Number 85474 is totally shot. Its not seized but it's looser than Jenna.

Oh well, throw another $120 at it!

DG

Thanks Kevin, I was all excited that somebody FINALLY Answered me.

LOL

DG

Welcome to my world Brian... All day.

DG

Quote:

Yea, that's a good idea but I think Brian likes to take turns with this car. Don't know why anybody would want to do that, its much easier to just go straight (LOL)

DG

Quote:

Funny you should mention that, because I was going to mention how I happen to like the noise when winding out of first gear.

+1 on the Indestructible part... that is for the Black Tag ZF6 at least. You've all seen the videos... that car took a lot of abuse.

There is a guy locally with an 85 Vette. He converted it to a T5, seems to like it. The weaker of the T5's comes out of the Camaro, the T5 out of the Mid-90's Mustangs is the strongest. What's interesting is I don't know of anybody breaking the T5's in the Camaro, yet when I was looking for one for my C3 (long time ago), seemed like the Mustang Guys were always breaking them.

I would think that the 4+3 is going to be a job an a half to get running, but maybe I'm wrong. Just remember, with a little fabrication, anything is possible. Keep us posted on how your project is working out.

DG

I wasn't going to post this yet, but I am looking into another C4... (this ones for me!) I like the C5 but I feel the same way. You actually had to drive the C4. If I wanted a car to drive me, I would buy a Toyota. Hint, Hint,... Keep a look out for the Impala, it just may turn into another Corvette.

P.S. The C6 is a drug... I won't entertain any negative comments about the C6, it is simply addicting!

DG

I remember hunting for a set of heavy duty u-joints when I was looking to replace mine; I ran across some really crazy sh*t. If your dead set, I can look though my old threads on all the sites I've been on.

Overall my decision was to go with Nepco Brute Force U-joints. They looked pretty beefy, and took a lot of abuse, but my car was also only making 250HP.

Spicer seems the be the "old reliable" of U-joints.

My best advice to you is to stay away from any type of ported or serviceable U-joint, they tend to be weaker (they have a thin point to crack at).

What HP range do you think you will be in?

DG

Hello,

So I am in the process of restoring an old Honda Motorcycle... nothing of any real value, but I am trying to do a "decent" job. The paint on the tank is shot, and its dented to hell. The side covers are ok, and so is the rear fender, BUT they are 100% plastic. So I decided to do a paint job. Unfortunately my painting skills are mediocre at best. And for whatever reason, I seem to run into the same problem with every single paint job, and I can't figure out how to correct it. After the paint dries, little bubbles form under the clear, and it looks horrid. So I was hoping somebody could offer up some tips or tricks! I have a paint gun, but after talking with the girl over at the PPG store I opted for their custom loaded spray cans which are PPG paint and Clear, but aerosolized. I am using a base coat clear coat, and I am painting the tanks, side covers, and rear fender, Metallic Blue. I will be spraying them indoors.

The problems I have to contend with are, bubbles under the clear coat, which I know will appear (ugh!), and I'm not quite sure what i need, or how to paint plastic side covers and fenders... Also not sure what grit sand paper to sand with prior to painting (600?).

Dan

I don't know if 90 is good, but it was a consistent reading at the time, and the gauge was not falling so... I will have to look into this further, maybe try another gauge.

DG

Its hard to find a 3.4L DOHC and the L67's are expensive. This is a $300 job IF the valves aren't bent.

DG

Quote:

Non-interference engine. The clearances are very tight, but I am keeping my fingers crossed.

The spark plugs are all intact.

DG