BrianCunningham wrote:
PEAK HORSEPOWER: 552@6,200
PEAK TORQUE: 484 FT.-LBS.@5,500

http://www.tpis.com/LT1-lowres.pdf

jsup wrote:
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BeachBum wrote:

How about you ! Looks like a new 450 !! damn sbc are getting bigger all the time.... before long, my 436 will be considered dinky with builders like you around I know you're building 88black's motor.... I think he did well in choosing you ! Nothing better than choosing a builder that builds and races what you're building !

I forget where I read it, however, recently I read that most new hot rods are going 500+ cubic inches, many over 600 and some 700+. Most small blocks are going 400 CI and better. As big as 454 small blocks.

Motors are getting bigger and bigger.

350s/383s will be considered puny soon.

There was charts and graphs as to the breakdown of motor sizes over years, and they are going up.

cuisinartvette wrote:
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BeachBum wrote:
Whats your set-up Cuisinartvette ?

-358 ci pump gas
-Scat 4340 crank
-Manley Sportmaster 6" rods,floating pins/Sportmaster flat tops
-Studded 4 bolt block. 0 deck
-Cusotm solid roler 250/254@ 050, .670/.660 lift 110 lobe sep.
-1.6 Jesel shaft rockers Crower sever duty lifters
-Dart Conquest heads ,heavily ported by Tony Mamo (302/232 cfm), angle milled along with angle milled & ported Team G
-Dougs headers
-T56 6 spd
-4.11 rear, lots of rear suspension work.
-Reduced weight wherever I could while keeping it all steel
67 Camino

dan0617 wrote:
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Dan,

I think if you're running right, high 11's will be no problem.....loosen up that converter another 500-1000 rpm and mid to low 11's could be realized.

As a note, I ran the next size smaller flat tappet cam on a 350 over a decade ago, I will say, I never really got that motor going strong, I'm not necessarily blaming the cam, but I would consider upgrading to a hyd roller cam, especially considering you already have the new stroker motor out.... would be easy. But regardless, I think easy 11's are in your future.

good luck !

Thanks! I had been thinking of going up a little on the converter but I am afraid a higher stall will tear my D36 to hell. I'm getting a 1.7 60ft time with my current setup, power limited as it dead hooks on Nitto drag radials. I'm thinking I'll get a 1.6 or possibly a 1.55 with the new setup and the 2800 stall and that is max for a D36. Running the 3.07 gear so that helps a little for survival. I am afraid a higher stall will yield me 1.5 or 1.4 60ft times if the tires stick and that will likely split my centersection. I'm thinking I better wait till I can afford to upgrade to a D44 or a solid rear before I up the stall any more. What do you think?

dan0617 wrote:
Good to see some more familiar names joining up. My winter project is installing 383 shortblock I bought already assembled, slightly used. 230/236 flat tappet hydraulic cam. Going to put the AFR 195 street eliminators on top. Going with Rhodes vari-duration lifters to keep the street manners nice and tame. Re-installing the HSR intake, 2800 converter and such that I already have. I'm hoping to run high 11's on motor and high 10's on a 175 shot. Is that do-able?

Currently run high 12's on motor and ran an 11.43 on a 175 shot with a 224/230 cam on stock bottom end. That is with tons of blowby, which is what prompted my winter project!

dan0617 wrote:
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BeachBum wrote:
In my opinion, the best modification for a C4 if your just looking to spend a little, but see a real performance gain is a torque converter. With your stock C4 TPI set-up, a little 12" 2500 rpm converter would work great.... they can be had for $ 300 or less depending on where you get it.

If you're content on doing an engine modifications one at a time, I always advise to start from the middle and work your way out. Thus, if you're staying with your original shortblock, then slap in an aftermarket hyd roller cam..... I recommend the LPE 211 for your application..... its designed to compliment your long tube runner tpi set-up. You'll need new springs too. In the future, as you can afford it, you can upgrade the cylinder heads, intake, exhaust etc.... and not have to take them off again. It would be ideal if while you have your aluminum cylinder heads off the car you could have a some light port work with a valve job..... (perhaps around $ 700-800).... with the cam and light port work, you could see a real 50+ HP gain even with the stock exhaust.

good luck !

I couldn't agree more that a higher stall converter would benefit you alot. Just be careful in choosing the stall speed with a TPI setup. 2500 the absolute max I'd go. I installed a 2800 stall last fall, knowing I was going to a HSR intake over the winter. For the fall months the car wasn't good. It would launch like a beast but for the rest of the run the rpms stayed higher than the TPI's peak. I slowed down alot because of running higher than the powerband. I'd go with about a 2200 stall if I were you. A properly chosen stall converter helps with a less than optimal gear ratio as well. I'm a big advocate of used parts, and you can pick up a good higher than stall converter used for pretty cheap. Check with jsup if you are interested, he had one for sale a week or 2 ago.

As far as heads, there is power to be had in reworking the 113's if staying with a TPI intake. If scrapping the TPI setup then go with good aftermarket heads. I'll be selling a set of totally reworked 113's with 2.02/1.60 valves right after Christmas because they just arent enough for me.

tpi421vett wrote:
Sounds like your project is getting close. You'll love the big cubes and torque that 436 will make. Getting everything behind it to survive could be a different story! Was a 383 the last engine you had in your car, or was there something else after the 383? Going from a 383 to a 436 is day/night difference.

lltrevino wrote:
You know a cnc is going to the exact same spot, every time.