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   All Posts (Steve40th)


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Re: UPDATE: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Okay, I got to laugh. I got taken, probably in more ways than on The valve body in there isnt my original as they said something wouldn't work. SO, they put an Identical one in, so they say. I came home and a today noticed it was leaking, the pan. So, I went and got a new gasket, pulled off the pan, and low and behold, different body, wires hanging etc etc. Shifts fine, but its not the point.
If you can help in telling me where to look on the valve body to figure out what year is in there, let me know. I have some pics.
I am so so unhappy to say the least.

Posted on: 2010/4/9 4:32
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Re: UPDATE: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Vette is home. Shifted very firm, no issues so far. We could not get my valve body to work, with the Transgo or OEM stuff. So, we put in another valve body with all the parts I purchased other than drilling the valve body and used an OEM plate. Everything works. I am debating on whether I should send the valve body to Dana at Probuilt and see if he can see what my valve body didnt work, other than first and reverse.
Also, this is the first time this car has ever shifted firmly into overdrive. Before it used to take its time, now it goes right in.
Upshifts and downshifts are fine. No WOT runs as tags are expired and I just wanted to get it home.
My buiilder wants the valve body looked at by Dana at Probuilt. If he finds anything that may be causing this, then we can fix it and move on. My builder was wanting to just do a B&M shift kit (hhmmm, whoduthunk).
Anyways, thats where I am now.

Posted on: 2010/4/7 23:26
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Quote:

X-FIRE wrote:
Steve, What an ordeal you are going through. I would have lost my mind by now or said the the heck with and sold it or something. Hope you get this figured out and your back on the road...

And to think I have only had one drink this week.

Posted on: 2010/4/3 20:59
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Update:
Riddle me this batman.
Okay, with Danas valve body and his separator plate (TRANSGO w/ Dana pre drilled) I have line pressure and rise, but no shifting into 2nd/3rd/4th. But I have reverse, and first.
With another valve body on (this one to check transmission itself), I have all gears but no line pressure increase.
I asked to have it towed home, but builder insisted he try one more thing, then he will send valve body off to DANA, after he checks it again on Monday. He will take valve body apart, again, re-verify all work.

Posted on: 2010/4/3 1:22
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Thanks Pete. I am just dealing with it. Been traveling allot lately, and trying to save money for whatever.
We checked pressure at 1000 rpm and it wasnt as high as it was prior to the teardown at idle and WOT. Down about 60 psi at WOT.
I also think the seperator plate is unique. TransGo sells one that fits quite a few years, and I beleive thats whats in it. I took the VB plate down to my builder that came out of the transmission, and several gaskets for valve body I already had. He is going to check the valve body today, as Dana wants him to and verify the plate. Dana told him which ones to use also.

Posted on: 2010/4/1 22:29
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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I may have found a valve body, Bulkpart says they have two available for the year I asked for.
R74740H Valve Body, (1 Switch) Auxiliary Type
$152.96
R74740J Valve Body, (2 Switch Side By Side) Auxiliary Type $152.94

Posted on: 2010/3/31 18:31
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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PATC doesnt sell the valve body anymore.

Posted on: 2010/3/31 2:44
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Me too. I went by the shop and we were able to get pressure up to 160 at WOT in Park (throttle body disconnected) and 60 at idle.
At this pressure it will burn-up. The builder is going to take the valve body off and check some internal valve, check the design of it for Dana. Other than that, very frustrating.

Posted on: 2010/3/31 2:37
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Thanks. I will give Dana etc a chance. I will look on PATC site for a valve body.
PATC site and their ebay site have the valve bodys listed as 1987-93, so I emailed to see what they have.
http://www.transmissioncenter.org/700r4_valve_body.htm

Posted on: 2010/3/30 16:00
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Quote:

PeteK wrote:
Quote:

pr0zac wrote:
holy shit.


Ditto.

If the valve body switchout allowed it to shift, and (at the same time) caused a failure for line pressure to rise, something is likely amiss in the checkball, separator plate, or valve body gaskets.

Without having it on the bench here, I could not begin to guess.
I still think the root of the problem is a new transgo valve binding in the valvebody. They are know for it in the 93 model year.

Thanks for the help. Will a 92 valve body work? TCC wiring?

Posted on: 2010/3/30 3:47
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Still in the shop. After putting it in I had no 2/3/4th gear.
Had a conversation with Dana (ProBuilt), builder of the transmission and Trans Go.
Two problems. I checked pressure in park, 80 at idle and 175ish at WOT, but pulling tv cable. But wouldnt shift.
Builder swapped valve body, shift fine, but pressure wouldnt go above 80 psi.
So, Dana/TransGo and builder are working it. They think its in the valve body or boost valve/Pr valve area.
Builder is not charging me as he feels its his fault. Great, but...
Can I throw a 92 valve body in? What about TCC switch then? PeteK?

Posted on: 2010/3/29 0:12
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Took governor out, seems good. Nothing broken and internal valve moves easily.

Posted on: 2010/3/15 2:22
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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UPDATE:
FAIL!!!!!!!
Worked good on stands, set fluid. Used PeteK's procedure to get all the fluid in, each gear 30 seconds etc. Reverse was fine, but wouldn't come out of first gear. I could pull it down and hold first, but it wouldn't go out, even if I manually shifted.
It went through all the gears on the stands.

Posted on: 2010/3/14 21:03
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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The plunger is all the way out on its own, as I did pull on it. It does have a Trans-Go shift kit within too.
It may come down to GMs procedure using the torque wrench. It is a very good wrench, and calibrated. I used a machine and calibrated it for a 71inch/#'s. So, I know what the wrench needed to be set to to get 71inch/#'s. Now as the ASR section is clicking, I had to feel the click on the wrench. That is why I did it several times.
I dont think GM intended the lever to be that far off. Bowtieoverdrives write is very good as well as the pictures to help you see.

Posted on: 2010/3/14 2:22
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Well, I went and adjusted to here, as it was less than an 1/8"
No being impatieint, just seems that you want the lever to start at the front right on the plunger, and fully in when at WOT.
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2287.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2010/3/13 18:02
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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With the exception of putting the pan back on and exhaust, I am stuck here. I have adjusted the TV cable several times yet it sets this far from the plunger. It goes to WOT fine, and the throttle goes to WOT fine, but upon return the tv lever goes out quite far. The plunger is as far out as it can go, so hydraulics wont send it further towards the lever. I asked Pete to see if I am okay or can I adjust the TV cable a little out to put the lever at the plunger at idle.
Cant afford to screw this little procedure up.
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2284.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2010/3/13 2:52
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Check, I will get on it tonight. I went to three different stores just to get ATF fluid. Gotta love Hawaii.

Posted on: 2010/3/11 23:22
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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I am hurrying. I need to assist in home preps for open houses as we are trying to sell too.

Posted on: 2010/3/11 4:18
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
The TV is set with a torque wrench... don't remember the steps off hand, tho.

I used the FSM, 1/8" drill bit, and a inch/#'s torque wrench.
You release the throttle cable, disconnect the cruise cable, release the other cable and unlock the tv cable.
You then put the bit in the ASR holes which lock all three cable reals together,. then you go clockwise and torque it to 71 inch #'s. Hold it, lock tv cable, remove torque wrench, then floor the throttle to reset the throttle linkage.
I did it several times and the same result.

Posted on: 2010/3/10 7:27
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Update:
Transmission is in, with the exception of two top bolts.
Went ahead and adjusted the dreaded tv cable.
At idle its not touching the tv valve, but very very close. At WOT it pushes the valve all the way in. So.. I should be good??

Posted on: 2010/3/10 6:04
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Re: Headliner replacement
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I did mine at a shop with black leather.

Posted on: 2010/3/7 22:57
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Which ones are those you speak of.
There were things wrong to me, and I am not even a transmssion guy. I think it wasnt built with any precision, as it seems to have been slapped together, IMHO.
The transmission has been rebuilt. As soon as I bend my new cooler lines, and get my converter back, it will go in.
Pray for me to the transmission sympathy Gods, as all I want to do is drive this darn thing.
Also, would a broken/cracked piston cause the transmission to take a bit of time to go into gear, from park to reverse.

Posted on: 2010/3/5 2:29
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Re: 700R4 - 4L60 Build Up Inside
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Thanks

Posted on: 2010/3/4 22:46
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Various pics from parts taken out of transmission
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2274.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2273.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2272.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2271.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2270.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2269.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2268.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2267.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2266.jpg[/IMG]
Bent plate. Look near the extra boost valve and you will see if was bent over there
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2265.jpg[/IMG]
Pieces and parts
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2262.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2010/3/4 4:58
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Re: 700R4 - 4L60 Build Up Inside
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Pete in post #10, the aux valve body has two black rollpins( one is visible on top right), one is flush on top, and the one lower towards where the green electrical connector is, is that flush also, or is the roll pin hanging out a little?

Posted on: 2010/3/4 3:58
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Neat little datalogging tool for self tuners.
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Posted on: 2010/2/26 5:47
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Quote:

Trae1976 wrote:
Quote:
Steve40th wrote:
Torque converter. It had exactly 3/16" gap when all the way into the transmission, yet the transmission shop took all that gap out and pulled it all the way to the flexplate, with no washers etc. I think that is BAD, and after searching the internet forever it was true.

I'm curious where you found that info.
The 4L60 may be different, but I just recently got a 700R4 mated to my engine, and I also had about 3/16" gap. However, Bowtie Overdrives' instructions specifically state that should be the case, and that no gap is a symptom of improper converter engagement.

Curiosity got me, so I looked it up on their site. This is directly from their Intallation Guide:

Quote:
The best way to be absolutely certain that the converter is fully indexed into the front pump is to place the transmission/converter assembly up against the back of the engine. The bolt lugs on the converter should not be touching the flex plate. There should be a gap between the flex plate and the converter bolt lugs. With the transmission bolted to the engine, this gap should be approximately 3/16” but no more than ¼”. (If the gap is larger than ¼”, precision shims must be installed to obtain the proper gap before the converter bolts are installed.). Before installing the bolts into the converter lugs you will need to slide the converter forward to the flex plate. If a gap doesn’t exist, the converter isn’t indexed into the pump properly. To get it to index into the pump, you need to continue turning the converter, at the same time, applying slightly inward pressure until it fully engages. Another easy way to check when using a full size converter is to try and slide your fingers between the converter and the pump housing. If you can, the converter isn’t fully engaged. This test doesn’t apply to the smaller v-6 or small diameter high stall converters.

A few builders recommended different gaps from converter to flexplate, a 3/16ths was too much. Each builder is different, as PeteK has said several times.
We'll see when I get her back, and in.

Posted on: 2010/2/25 15:26
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Well, no pics yet. But builder has had it for a week. I had to go to Okinawa, came back and he had all, well most internals done. The pump? is out getting trued? as he said it wasnt very flat. He is waiting on a couple minor things and the rest should be done in a few days. He is doing it after regular hours, as there is less rif/raf coming in. He said 3/4th were fried. Based on the pump, torque converter being alittle further out, he blieves it may have just had too much clerance within the pack. He said it is hard to tell as he didnt build it and no real smoking gun is showing itself.
Vigilante is sending converter back, as it was freshened up. Vicki asked if I wanted to "upgrade" it while it was apart and change the stall. Bit my tounge and said leave it. So, 2800 stall single clutch, yet painted pink.

Posted on: 2010/2/25 6:50
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Re: Rear tires even side to side in the wheel well
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Quote:

Aboatguy wrote:
Quote:

Steve40th wrote:
This a known C4 problem. I currently have mine narrowed, by 13mm, and with the GS offset I have a different size spacer( about 5/8 inch) on the drivers side to make it not hit the inner fenderwell and a 1/4 inch spacer on the passenger side.
Now, this is with 315's BFG and 1.75 negative camber in the rear. When I ran a VB&P advanced street I only needed the 1 /4 spacer to keep, on the drivers side, to keep it from hitting.
Also, I am lowered 2 inches.



Steve,

I don't have a problem is mine is pretty even (within a 1/16") actual measurements were done with machinist rule and long straight edge level.
Lowered at least 2 inches ...

I was wondering if anyone elses is pretty even.
Mike

Yours is rare, must have been a late build on a Wednesday before lunch.

Posted on: 2010/2/24 3:06
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Re: Rear tires even side to side in the wheel well
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This a known C4 problem. I currently have mine narrowed, by 13mm, and with the GS offset I have a different size spacer( about 5/8 inch) on the drivers side to make it not hit the inner fenderwell and a 1/4 inch spacer on the passenger side.
Now, this is with 315's BFG and 1.75 negative camber in the rear. When I ran a VB&P advanced street I only needed the 1 /4 spacer to keep, on the drivers side, to keep it from hitting.
Also, I am lowered 2 inches.

Posted on: 2010/2/23 1:01
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Re: Long Term FT numbers...
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One other thing that never really gets allot of looks is the IAC. It is a cause for vacuum leaks etc. It doesnt give a code, and the only thing you see on datalogging is what the ECM is telling the IAC to do.
Mine gave me less than desireable idle, for example, so I was unable to use AC at idle etc while in gear. I replaced everything, but it turned out my IAC was bad. I recommend you at least take it out and clean it, unless it is new as I know you went through allot on the older threads.

Posted on: 2010/2/12 17:46
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Quote:

pr0zac wrote:
well i would hate to have the problem of being stuck in hawaii..

Well, living and working here are different than being on vacation.

Posted on: 2010/2/9 3:24
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Being stuck here in Hawaii makes it a little tougher. If I was back in SC, it would have been shipped to a reputable company or Pete, if he had the time..
Regardless, If I could afford the tools I would do it all myself, as I could take my time etc.

Posted on: 2010/2/8 4:30
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Wow. Is there any recourse against the previous shop?

Matthew

Nope, Its funny because he is now the largest advertiser on Oahu for transmission repair now. His F430 is sweet though. I am sure I made at least one payment on that for him
Seriously though, I found out he used to have a transmission shop in Arizona, and was asked to leave due to business practices. His name isnt even what he uses here.
Shady person, as one person here who knows his background layed it on me. Sad.

Posted on: 2010/2/8 0:55
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Quote:

pianoguy wrote:
Too bad Pete doesn't make house calls - Hawaii is very nice this time of year ;-)

Best of luck!

I have a spare room Pete ;)

Posted on: 2010/2/7 19:06
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Matt, Soon I hope to find out. I ran autocross about three times, which was second gear only and was short from 30-50 seconds. So, I am not saying running it hard is possible in that time, but not likley.
The converter gap, or lack thereof as they pulled it forward to the flexplate, might be one thing.
I am not expert, or have the knowledge of Pete. But, After the valve body TV valve sticking and not having the basic parts of the shift kit in there, tells me it was poor attention to assembly.
We'll see when it comes apart if there are any tell tale signs.
Regardless, when she goes back in. Attention to detail of install and TV cable adjustment will be my responsiblity as I am doing it this time.

Posted on: 2010/2/7 18:33
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Re: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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Hopefully the longest item turnaround will be the converter going to/from PI.

Posted on: 2010/2/7 3:34
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UPDATE: My 4L60 is out of the Vette.
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I want you guys to be apart of this too, so here it is.
Cut/pasted from another forum. Until I get notifications its hard to surf over here.
Well, I went down the wonderful path of taking my damaged 4L60 out after finally getting money to get her fixed, again.
Couple things I noticed.
Fluid was nasty, and the pan in the transmission and the one I drained the fluid into was defiitely dark.
Torque converter. It had exactly 3/16" gap when all the way into the transmission, yet the transmission shop took all that gap out and pulled it all the way to the flexplate, with no washers etc. I think that is BAD, and after searching the internet forever it was true.
One of the cooler lines was already rounded, yeah for me. Its the one closest to the Servo housing, so I had to cut the line (flare it later.).
Converter is painted silver, yes its a Vigilante but they fubarred it up when they did the last transmission build and painted it after they cut it open. It will be shipped back to Precision Industried for a rebuild. YEAH.
The Governer plate wasnt all the way flush with the transmission case. See Pic.
Filter was black.
Before I take it to the shop I am going to try to at least do a pump check with the dial indicator, or do it when I get there. I am going to ask the builder to take pictures of the build, especially on the pump end play. Other than that, I am kinda tired of this crap.
Any suggestions etc for checks etc before going to the shop. The guy I am taking it to is very good, good reputation etc.
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2253.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2255.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d80/Steve40th/DSCF2258.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2010/2/7 2:43
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Re: Suddenly - the dreaded Hard Brake Pedal problem
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I would check by cylinder #7 and see if there is a crack in the booster, other wise it could be check valve in booster.
I wrapped my booster with heat deflecting stuff, as i have headers and it was found by Guldstrand years ago while testing for GM/Goodyear that the headers can crack plastic boosters

Posted on: 2010/2/5 19:49
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Re: How long have you owned your Corvette?
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I have owned my 93 since 1996, and added almost 100000 miles on it, as it is in the 140's, and it had 48 k when I bought it.

Posted on: 2010/1/28 20:22
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Re: C4 frame brace on hold
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Any links/pics.

Posted on: 2010/1/27 17:58
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Re: So I cut open some oil filters today... AC-Delco is worse than Fram!
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After seeing all the data against Fram, I researched filters for some time, and Puraltor One and WIX (Napa Golds) just seem to always be regarded as well engineered fitlers, so I stick with them on all my vehicles now.

Posted on: 2010/1/23 19:07
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Re: oil in opti......
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I think it leaked through the cap seal from the timing chain cover seals. Regardless, its been a long road for this guy.

Posted on: 2010/1/20 2:37
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Re: Any C5 confident People in Monterey CA area?
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But it is such a nice drive up PCH ;)

Posted on: 2010/1/14 17:37
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Any C5 confident People in Monterey CA area?
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A friend is in Monterey and needs NOS dialed in and maybe a clutch, as he had ECS install a real grabby noise making clutch and may want it changed.

Posted on: 2010/1/14 3:13
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Re: I am in the worng business, I need to change transmission fluid in VW's
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Quote:

joeld wrote:
I joined this forum a few years back when I started doing work on my DIL's Jetta. Seems to have lots of good folks to help out with questions.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeromain

Joel

Thats the only forum I go to for VW stuff

Posted on: 2010/1/12 3:14
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Re: I am in the worng business, I need to change transmission fluid in VW's
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Quote:

BrianCunningham wrote:
WTF? are they yanking it to change the fluid?

The guy at the dealership emailed me back saying the parts are expensive.
Here is a list of parts needed.
http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=F2A1012-B

Posted on: 2010/1/11 16:15
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Re: I am in the worng business, I need to change transmission fluid in VW's
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Quote:

pr0zac wrote:
Quote:

Steve40th wrote:
Pete, this isnt even a flush, just a pan fluid and filter change out.
My daughters car in SC is costing 1500 dollars for a complete rebuild with converter for her 98 Honda Civic, and that includes labor to R&R it.


i had an 1994 accord with an auto and it wouldn't put up with any abuse.. i had three transmissions 1 stock and 2 junkyard go bad very fast. i know she probably doesn't beat it but make sure you keep whatever paperwork is involved with the warranty. where in sc?

Charleston area.

Posted on: 2010/1/11 16:14
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Re: I am in the worng business, I need to change transmission fluid in VW's
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Pete, this isnt even a flush, just a pan fluid and filter change out.
My daughters car in SC is costing 1500 dollars for a complete rebuild with converter for her 98 Honda Civic, and that includes labor to R&R it.

Posted on: 2010/1/10 23:29
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Re: I am in the worng business, I need to change transmission fluid in VW's
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I have read a few write ups on it, and it is a little different, but their expensive fluid is 15 dollars a quart. It may drain up to 3 litres of fluid. Serious labor rates.
As soon as I get an answer as to the DEXRON it uses (owners manual says dexron ((but no number after it)) )
I figure I can drain it, drop pan, refill it with exact amount taken out with new filter and gasket. Cant be anymore difficult than that.

Posted on: 2010/1/10 23:13
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