Bogus thanks for the article, very well done!

Thanks for the encouragement matatk!

Astock165, any way i can help im more than happy to! i think i get what your saying about the dowel but the boots are ruined so ill need others before i can try.

p.s. am i able to order just 2 dust boots?

took me a couple hours on sunday to install these. not a tough installation at all.

original part notes:

turns out one was BENT?!?! stock camber rod on the passenger side. the rubber stock bushings were cracking and small chunks were missing. Also some aluminum was being shaved off of the bracket on the wheel side ( Part name? ).

dunno how hard it is to bend one of these but it dosnt seem like it was gentle process!

Banski part notes:

this truly is a beautiful product! clean installation
i also purchased the dust boots. when installed correctly they will work great.

Banski Installation notes:

basically all went smooth except 3 things.

First, the instructions were perfect except ( unless i missed it ) you cant figure out from the pic or instructions which side (front or back) to install the different sized spacers. my apologies if its in there and i missed it.

second i had to file down some aluminum and then the "spacers" so they would fit properly on the wheel side. no big deal just took some time and then tapped them into place

Third, and most disappointing was that no matter what i did i could not get the dust boots to work on the wheel side nuckle. the bolts wouldnt go thru correctly..i seriously spent well over an hour on the first side... i even got so desperate as to try modifying the boot and cutting on the side (this after the bolt cut through it and ruined it any way). i jsut couldn't make it happen, very frustrating.

all this being said... WOO HOOO!! im super happy with the product and the new handling characteristics!!!

im sure all of this frustration could have been solved with a call but i couldnt keep my car up on the stands till monday so i was forced to suck it up.

WOuld i buy this product again...... Actually i cant wait to buy all the rest the Banski products so HECK YESSSS!!!!

any one with dust boots, how did you do it?

didnt bring it in but they used the "pinch" type on the outer lip of the rim ( not happy about that ) and there isnt one on the other rim out back so im leaning towards a thrown weight. ill bring it in as soon as im able to and let yall know.

good references above too!

ill check on the weights.. might just bring them in and have them spun monday just to make sure. after these banski camber rods go in (30 min) il take it back out and see EXACTLY what speed it comes on at.

to clarify after i took it up to 130 the vibration came back and now is noticeable at 60 mph.

took it up to 130 and now a rumble is back.. cant feel it too much in the shifter or steering wheel but the buttocks picks it up.... $h!T!!!! im putting in pst bushings up front and banski camber rods after a well deserved nap so ill see if that helps.. im guessing it won't...

just ordered camber rods thanks banski!

cant believe i didnt find this while searching today.. thank you!

Simple question

If I only have enough moola to get one of the 3 rear end products from banski motor sports which one is most logical / makes the biggest difference?

Should i just save pennies and get them all at once?

my rear end feels so sloppy i cant take it any more so im looking to do something about it. It sound like poly bushings are a waste of money for the rear so that option seems to be out.

new bearings in rear
new shocks in rear
installed.

blinker fluid and muffler bearings are on my short list!

finally got the car back yesterday!

Mechanic said he did indeed find 2 ujoints that "seemed" to be binding!

I took it up to somewhere north of 100 and no vibration or even a hint of one was felt!!

Mad props to Bogus and all the others involved in the original trouble shooting thread!

Cant thank everyone enough!

[/quote]

I could pretty much do a simple brake change before I bought my vette. Now I can change the brakes AND the fluid

haha! yah im actually pretty excited about tackling these projects.. some day i hape to be good enough to change the blinker fluid!

on another note the mechanic still hasnt finished the car.. dont think hes even started actually.. and the seal for the top leaks ... its raining like crazy as we speak, so thats nice too ( parked outside at his shop )

lol I hear that! im glad i didnt see these numbers before i purchased!

I have novice skills when it comes to car maintenance,but fabricate a lot so im no stranger to tools.

Im assuming the prices are installed? rockauto has most of this stuff quite a bit cheaper. not the bottom of the line stuff either.

I've owned 4 black cars 3 with black interiors and one with tan. My seat "O" the pants meter tells me the interior being black made it significantly hotter than other colors. That being said the roof will conduct heat to the inside ( I've touched the interior ceiling and you can feel it) IMHO ..

You know what they say, once you go black you never go back.. Unless its hot as he** out! . Er maybe that was my ex that said that?

I agree this was the first and last time he touches any of my vehicles. It was one of those things where a friend reccomended him and my regular mechanic only does vw's and particularly the diesels, so I needed to try someone else.

I tried the 3 9 12 6 test thats how i figured out the right outer tie rod which was super obvious.

If i can see ANY movement at all does that mean there bad? or is a small about normal in the tie rods?

thanks for the reply!

so ill get the pst kit for the front since i like the idea of graphite in the poly.

Ill be getting the banski kit in spring since it does get such rave reviews.

wheel bearings in rear were just done but not front.
so if i jack the car up and rotate the tire and hear squealing could that be the bearings? i thought it might just be the pads on the discs?

as far as the clutch goes it seems fine, but I've never driven a corvette before this one so i don't have a reference. Ive read that they last till 120000 usually? i do know what clutch slips feels like since my tdi is suffering from that after some mods.. gotta love 250ftlbs outa a 4cyl diesel! 46 mpg still!

the reason i thought it might be the sway bar bushings is that my tdi was suffering from a similar feel and sound and that was the problem.. i did just install new shocks and just checked, there tight..


thank you thank you

Hello again!

so 109000 miles on 1994 6 spd er

the suspension is pretty sloppy, front and rear. rubber bushings are shot every where.the front wanders and tracks pretty bad, i know the outer tie rod end on right side is sloppy I've been doing hours of reading but in not sure if I'm getting much farther.

so i have a budget and i would love banski parts and will get them eventually but for now can't do it.

from what i understand...

1. pst and prothane bushings can be used in the front suspension but should be avoided in rear due to suspension design needing more "compliance".

T or F

2. either pro thane or pst should last around 30,000 miles?

T or F

some Q's

3. have "fitment" issues been resolved with bushing manufacturers?

Y or N

4. is it wise to do all ball joins and tie rod ends even if not certain there all "bad"

Y or N

5. WHAT THE HECK is making an intermittent popping, usually when turning and hitting a bump, on the front left suspension?!?! sway bar???


thought this might be an easier set up to get questions answered.. i could have list 20 more but didn't want to pester

thanks in advance for any feed back!

UPDATE

car is back with the mechanic.. I've had some serious printer issues so he didn't get a copy of the the Bogus thread and he said his internet is too slow at the shop to look it up?!?!?
(I'll try to print it tomorrow and run it over)

he seemed skeptical at best.

i dropped off the FSM with it and basically said use it :/

im nervous

don't get me wrong, this car gets driven the way it should! I'm not afraid to get it in the red on a regular basis.. usually every ride! I doubt ill have any issues with carbon

I feel like i should just do it my self but its the principle of the matter... he messed it up so he should fix it.. it was the 1 thing i havnt done my self.. go figure

* I read the thread right away, very informative.. A lot of hassle for u but really a life saver for the rest of us!

I shift at very low Rpms regularly (2000 ish) ..and do skip 2 most of the time. Havnt had a chance to unplug it but will do so soon. Codes don't bother me as Long as I know why there there.. Since the map has been replaced it hasn't popped the service light.

Thanks again, I'll update with Ujoint info when it gets taken care of.

thanks a ton Bogus!

awesome im so pumped, replaced the MAP car hasnt ran this well since i bought it! it must have been malfunctioning before the service light came on.

so ive put on about 600 miles with that vibration, is there anything that could have messed up?

also as a side note ive never been Locked out of any gears so it must have been peaced out before i got it?

haha crap you say!! sounds good to me ill unplug that turd and be done with it. yup 6spd..

lol wow im an idiot.. got it now!

that link was super helpful thanks again,..

looks like i have to verbally accost the mechanic that put in the u joints for me

what about the 2nd to 3rd relay.. any negatives if it dosnt get replaced till this winter?

woo hoo!! thanks for the welcomes and party balloons!!

ok so im not crazy and the fsm did help with one thing lol.. ( the 2nd / 3rd relay)

The big question is what effect is this having on the car and if i don't replace it right away is there a potential problem that could spring up or be exacerbated?

So in the interest of the horsepower = happiness equation would it be beneficial to get a larger maf since I'm replacing it anyway?

i have k&n
but will have headers and full exhaust with muffler delete and chambered resonators by next spring if not sooner. not to mention i have a serous addiction the modifying everything i have so I'm sure as i do research and heed the guru guidance i will be doing many other things as well!

can't say how great this forum is! and I've been a member at many other forms for other vehicles in the past but this is by far the most helpful and respectful ive come across!!

Hi to everyone, just bought my 94 c4 2 months ago!!! I've been lurking and searching the forums pretty much since day 1 so thanks for all the great info!

Problem #1
title says it all used the paper clip method and these codes popped up

H84
C34
H34
C33

Quick back ground info.. Ive been searching trying to find out how to deal with these. I just received my 2 part FSM yesterday and have been reading it for 3 hours but my vocabulary must not be good enough or something because i can't seem to figure much out with it.. i couldn't even find where it had the trouble codes listed lol!

Im getting frustrated because it just dosnt have the power it should and there is so much stuff to fix on the car as it is.. suspension work mostly...

Problem #2

vibration comes on at 70 mph.
seems to originate from rear end
Just had tires balanced/ rotated no change
put in all 6 ujoints
2 new rear wheel bearings

can't remember if it did it before the bearings and u joints...

thanks in advance..!