Stuff that has been replaced:

Windshield wiper motor
Front Right Caliper
Distributor
Distributor cap
Rotor Button
Fuel Pump
Rotors
Brake Pads
Fuel filter
Fuel Cap
Foglights
Parklights
Wiper blades
Exaust
Tires
Rims
Alternator
Battery
Serpentine Belt
Master Cylinder
Brake booster
Bearing rod(s)
Brake booster
Interior pieces(Brushed aluminum)
Speakers/CD player
Inlet hose
Front Spoiler
Battery Cables
EGR
Starter
Transmission
Maf sensor
Window Switch
Steering wheel
Valve cover gasket*soon to be both*
Intake Manifold gasket
Radiator
Waterpump
Resovoir
Hoses/clamps
Shocks
Intereior screws
Coil
Torque converter
A.C. has been recharged
Fuel Pump Relay
Digidash bulbs*soon*
Cooling fan motor



Thats what I have replaced so far. As far as the previous owner, I don't know. So what is left to replace?

So far I got:

Head gaskets
Fuel Injectors
Powersteering pump
Powersteering resovoir
Window Motors
Headlight motors
Fuel lines
Heater core
Rebuild the Differential
Brake Lines

Anything else? Stuff that would make it difficult or leave me stranded? I might have left something out of my already done list so I will post back if I forgot summin..........

don't fret the rear diff. Unless you race it, the D36 is very durable for a long life... just don't race it. and don't rebuild it. save your pennies and get a D44.

headgaskets, yes.

Power window motors, don't worry... they will die a slow death, once they start messing up, replace. same with the headlight motors.

fuel lines are ok. very durable.

brake lines are easy... the metal ones are long lived, the rubber ones, replace with SS.

heater core, you will smell that.

injectors? get a set of Ford Motorsport 19 lb, matched.

Quote:

Fuel lines ok? On CF there was talk about them causing fires.....Stainless steel brakelines? ok....

All i can say mate is save up, you dont need to fix ANYTHING til it fails.

In order of what i consider important, here is a list if you want power:

Transmission rebuilt to servere duty and 9.5" torque converter at the same time
DANA 44 swap
THEN you can do the engine, and do it right first go, dont reuse anything that wont last.

Dont bother with injectors if youre going to power up the engine later, and if you do, make sure you get something suitable to use in the new engine.

Do the exhaust to a standard that will suit the engine you plan to put in.

You said you installed a new AC Delco booster, what the hell is wrong with it now?

Forget the bloody stereo, it wont make the car run better and all it does is add weight.

Same goes for interior.

Why replace the MAF? Is it working?

Forget the rocker cover gaskets if they are not leaking badly, you can do all that in a full rebuild and save.

Same for the other gaskets.

Go with a good radiator that will be suitable for your intended build.

Why replace the dash bulbs is they work?

Coil cap rotor and leads are regular maintenance items.

Use KONI adjustable shocks cause they are bloody good and i swear by them.

Iiuno wat my tranny was bult to prob factory specs i spose. Goodshop regardless. If one injector goes, i am going to replace them all. Bogus said 24 is to much for a stock engine. Uhh the exaust is just umm pipe lol....My maf sensor WAS bad when it was replaced. Brake booster WAS BAD. Radiator is just a factory replacement and that HAD to be replaced. Shox dont need to be replaced for a good while. Do the KONIs make the car ride stiff and tight? I like it that way. I hate loose feeling like in a truck. Our explorer is like that. How much is a D44 and where do you get one? Christmas is coming up which means CAR STUFF YAY!

Bogus didnt say that, cause 24lb/hr is certainly not too much for a stock engine. You can use 30lb/hr if you want and they wont be too big either. As long as the injector constant is set correctly in the tune its neither here nor there between 22lb and 30lb. Just means you wont need to get bigger ones later on if you do it right first go.

KONI Yellow are adjustible, so depends on the springs youve got, they go from normal to firm with soft springs, or firm to very firm with stiff springs.

The exhaust is NOT just pipe.

The title of this thread being what it is, i thought you wanted to replace all this stuff you list here.

Heck he didnt. I talked to him thru Instant messaing last night. I was half asleep so unless I misread it, then yes he did say that 24 wa to much. :shaking:

No the title is stuff thats LEFT to replace. The first list is everything that WAS/HAS BEEN ALREADY DONE/NEW......Im trying to figure out whats left. Get it "reliable" them mod.

Well ill put it to ya this way then, 94-96 LT1s come with 24lb/hr injectors from the factory. 24s are certainly not way to big on a stock engine. If youre wanting to upgrade the engine for more horses, putting in 19lb/hr injectors is the dumbest thing you could ever do, cause they will be lucky to flow enough for 250bhp.

lol ur funny. I like the l98 regardless. Modding the l98 is what I am aiming for in the long run. No motor swaps or nothing. Might take a LONG time to get it done and lots of mistakes and learning but I am ready for it.

19lb injectors are perfectly fine on a STOCK L98.

I ran a set on my wifes 87, and they were just fine.

My suggestion was because I didn't want you to waste the money on a tune.

30lb injectors, with a tune, would work.

I am a firm beleiver in replacing before it breaks. I would rather spend the $$ than get shut down for a long period of time. It's called Preventative Maintenance.

So on that note, would you consider it more economically sound to buy a tune at $100 to change the injector constant, or would it be better to buy another set of injectors for $300 USD cause the ones youve allready got for $300 USD are not big enough for a modded engine later on?

I know they are fine on a stocko L98, but when the time comes to start upgrading(which he doesnt seem to be able to restrain himself from doing despite our advice), 19lb/hr will be useless.

There are certain things you replace before they break, that is plain common sense. There are alot of things that work fine til they die (and as long as they wont take out other good parts with them, which very few items ever will, they can stay till their life is up), and replacing them before they fail is called "throwing away perfectly good parts" and is wasting good money, and good money is hard to come by.