Ok I finally got to start the car up after the head and cam install. It seems to run and sound good, idle is a little more choppy than I hoped but it still needs a tune so that may get better. I did have a few problems none of which I have had time to look at, at all but I thought some of you may be able to save me a little troubleshooting by pointing me in the right direction.

First thing I noticed was of coarse the check engine light was on but I fully expected that. I have not checked for codes yet so this one is still up in the air.

I also had the service ASR light on, I am not sure what I could have done to the traction control. Will I get a code for this too when I go in and try pulling them?

Then there is the flashing SYS and security. They flash together several times then stop for a few seconds and then do it again. This is another one I am hoping to find in the trouble codes.

All the gauges seem to be working normally except the digital coolant temp, it reads LO. I have had this trouble before and it turned out to be the sensor in the water pump not getting a good ground. This also caused the check engine light to come on so they may be the same problem.

The cooling fan is also running all the time, the upper one on the driver side. Not sure what to think of this except maybe it has to do with the LO reading of the coolant?

Finally is the one that worries me the most. It looks like I have a slow coolant drip from the back of the block. It is dripping off the bell housing anyway. Other than heater hoses there are no coolant lines back there right?

Other than that it sure sounds sweet, I bet it will be fast when I get it out on the road.

There are steam pipes connected to the back of the heads, and that will probably be where the coolant is coming from. Its pretty important you take a look at that.

The coolant temp reading LO is related to the sensor in the water pump, and im suprised the engine runs at all with that saying LO, cause DTC 15 has caused my engine to stop.

The ASR light will give you a DTC in module 9.

The SYS and Security light flashing together is related to DTC 54 in module 1, which is fuel enable circuit failure.

Youll need to do abit of diagnostic work here before you go driving this vehicle, and youll probably need a Genuine GM service manual to get you through it all.

Have a look here if you need help to get the codes: http://www.c4guru.com/articles/CCMCodePull.pdf then post them up and we will see what we can do with them.

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If that is the copper pipes that connect the 2 heads and T off in the center that makes a lot of since. I had trouble with 1 side of the T and was not sure I got it sealed quite right but thought it was a vacuum line. Good call thanks a ton you probably saved me a lot of aggravation.

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That sensor was the first place I was going to check on this one, right after I get a chance to pull codes. I wander why it would stop yours and not mine. It has happened before and all that happened to mine was reading LO and it set the check engine light.

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I did a quick search on the web and found someone saying that a TPS not adjusted will cause this but it would take some time to happen not as soon as the car is started. With a new throttle body and using the old sensor is there an adjustment I will need to make?

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Any guess what I likely screwed up causing this? I did put in new to me 30# FMS injectors.

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I also have to wait for the snow to melt and the salt to wash away but I agree I have some work ahead of me before it hits the road. I do have the FSM and a printout of how to pull codes under the front cover. Andy did a great job putting that tech sheet together.

First thing youve got to do is get the leak sorted out, get the DTCs cleared, see what comes back, then work from there.

The injector size wont be the cause of the FEDs, that could be a false DTC.

The fact yours will run with the coolant temp saying LO might be the difference between a 92-93 ECM and the later model, im not sure about that bit. When i was driving home from work one night i had an intermitant bad connection at the CTS which caused the engine to stop running almost imediately.

The TPS cant be adjusted without modification, and the only way i know of to set it to "learn" mode is with a TECH 1 unit, but i doubt that would be the issue if its the same TPS. The learning only relates to the EBTCS as far as i know.

Ok I replaced the pipe on the one side I thought would be the leak. Man that sucks trying to work with them pipes back there. Anyway I started the car up and watched and got just a few very small drips, might have just been left over from taking it all apart I will have to check it again latter. I ran out of time before I could clear and pull the codes so I will have to get after that tomorrow. I did notice though it was not only the coolant that reads LO the oil temperature is doing the same thing, I don’t know how I missed that last time.

Youre going to have to use the service manual and figure this one out, id have to see it to be able to give more help than i have.

Ok update time. I pulled the codes and got;

C41, H41 in module 1.1
ERR in module 4.1
H72 in module 9.1

Everything seems to point to a communication problem so I disconnect the battery and start pulling connectors and checking them. After a while doing this I go ahead and try the car again. Same thing all the errors are back even though the car seems to run fairly good, a little more smoke out the tail than normal but idles good and revs crisp and smooth. I don't know why but I decided to try burning another chip and giving that a try before getting too deep into troubleshooting. Now I have no error lights and the gauges are working like they should be. The car is running like crap, wont idle spits and sputters lots of black smoke but I sent out for a tune tonight I will have to see what happens tomorrow. Where they ask how I found out about pcmforless I said that I did from here, I think I might have from corvetteforum but I would bet I heard it from one of you and maybe they will send a little sponsorship this way.

I had feeling it may have had something to do with the chip you put in, whether it was a bad chip or a bad connection, it had to be some issue there.