All Posts (Travis93)
Re: C4 front hood and gas door emblems in chrome |
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40th anniversary cars have chrome looking emblems if you look for '93 anniversary edition you should be able to find them almost anyplace.
Posted on: 2012/10/24 12:30
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Re: Vacuum leaks |
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Ok it should hold vacuum then, thank you very much. Yes I have the FSM but could not find that switch in it. Well now to try and find a replacement. Thanks again.
Posted on: 2009/8/2 20:39
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Re: Vacuum leaks |
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Thanks for the reply. I will check to see what I have at idle there. Do you know if the switch should hold vacuum when I use my hand pump hooked directly up to it?
Posted on: 2009/8/2 16:51
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Re: Vacuum leaks |
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No one can help me figure out what that box is or if it should be holding vacuum?
Posted on: 2009/8/2 12:40
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Re: Vacuum leaks |
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The open line in the first picture is where the hose plugs into. It's unhooked in the picture. They probably don't look right also because there is an extra line and check valve going to the MSD optispark for venting. Thanks for verifying the reservoir for me.
Posted on: 2009/8/1 17:03
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Vacuum leaks |
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I think I have a good vacuum system but I have 1 line that does not hold any vacuum at all. It's a 93 LT1 by the way.
This line; Goes to this; And that is right here; I am not sure what it is or if it should be holding vacuum but it does look like it is part of the AIR system. At least the control box the vacuum line goes to has 2 large hoses going to it and one goes to what I assume is the smog pump? I was also wandering if this is the vacuum reservoir?
Posted on: 2009/8/1 14:29
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Re: Help identifying a source for this hose. |
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Quote:
I already put the vacuum line on. It was rubber line like fuel line so I guess it could have been just not reinforced. I will see how it hold up, I am thinking it will be good for quite a while.
Posted on: 2009/7/28 0:17
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Re: Help identifying a source for this hose. |
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Well this explains why I could not find them anyplace.
Posted on: 2009/7/28 0:14
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Re: Help identifying a source for this hose. |
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Ok I went back up to the parts store and they let me behind the counter to brose a bit and I found something I think will work. Thank you all for the help. Still would like to know what this is for but so long as its sealed up I'm good. Thanks again.
Posted on: 2009/7/27 20:14
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Re: Help identifying a source for this hose. |
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Where did you find vacuum hose? All the parts stores around here only have fuel line hose they sell as vacuum. I don't know about stretching that reinforced stuff very much.
Posted on: 2009/7/27 18:57
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Re: Help identifying a source for this hose. |
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Quote:
Not the coolant hose the smaller one, its vacuum I think. I am hoping it is what is causing me to have low vacuum at idle.
Posted on: 2009/7/27 18:54
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Help identifying a source for this hose. |
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Its about 1/2 inch OD connects to the side of the throttle body.
Mine a dry rotted, stretched out, cracked all over and need replaced. The zip ties keep it from falling off but I am sure its got to be leaking. Can anyone help me with part numbers for this hose and the longer one on the other side of the switch, a description, source or anything that will help me find some replacements? I am sure not having any luck on my own. Thanks in advance.
Posted on: 2009/7/27 18:35
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2008 ZO6 for $100 |
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Posted on: 2009/7/26 20:57
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Re: Tuning questions |
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Thank you for the response. I have a lot more reading to do now that I have so much more information. I just might take you up on that call once I learn enough to know what I don't know.
Posted on: 2009/7/1 2:01
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Re: Tuning questions |
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Miss was the second plug wire down on the driver side of the opti loose and flopping.
I decided to try tunercat just to see what I was missing even though I had already paid for tunerpro and here is a little feedback. tunerpro has 1 switch tunercat has 26 yes 26 to 1 tunercats favor. tunerpro has 14 tabular tunercat has 40f'n9, thats 49 for those of you that missed that part and 15 to 75 still tunercats favor. finally the all important tables tuner pro has 14 tunercat 49. Final score 29 to 124, or is it? I finally got a chance to try VEMaster and have to say I did nothing but waist my time before. That alone makes tunercat 10 times better. Now for the math tunerpro=29 tunercat=124*10=1240 tunercat is about 4000% better even though tunerpro is a bit cleaner interface. Anyway things are making a lot more sense now and advancing finally. I will be back with more stupid questions though. Oh here is one when datamaster says it is running off cell 13 how do I find cell 13 in tunercat?
Posted on: 2009/6/30 22:53
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Re: Tunning questions |
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I will look into the off idle for sure but I seem to have picked up another miss. Just seems to be one thing after another I can't wait tell this is done. I did come across VEphd mentioned someplace but have not had a chance to look into it yet but will take a look when its running right again. The document you posted looks like it came from here http://www.lt1pcmtuning.com/tips/ and I agree its a great place to get started. He talks about some tables I can not find in tunerpro I am wondering if tunercat has more tables. I may have to start using tunercat after all I am just not sure how it would interface with my chip burner. The off idle split makes me wander if maybe there is a vacuum leak I have not been able to find yet. My brakes are a little harder than I remember I guess there could be a leak in the booster but it's only a couple years old. And a pain in the ass to change, It does get better after removing the driver seat though.
Posted on: 2009/6/23 22:35
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Re: Tunning questions |
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I have tried VE Master and all it did was corrupt my bin files. I am using Tuner Pro and VE Master says tuner cat file, I assumed because I am not using Tuner Cat it would not work for me.
I did not think the split looked any better I guess I need to get in there and look closer.
Posted on: 2009/6/19 19:13
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Re: Tunning questions |
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Quote:
There is the kind of help I need without even knowing it. This scan I tried to follow your advice not easy with stop lights every 5 feet and every one of them red but I think I got some good ranges. I did check the headers and they seem to be tight I found a couple clamps loose on what I think are the AIR pipes, the metal pipe that screws in to the top of the headers and goes through some valves and into the back of the intake manifold. but that does not seem to have helped the split. I did forget to post my setup sorry about that. Yes its a larger throttle body not huge but a stock one bored to 52mm, I have ported stock heads with larger valves, Lloyd Elliot LE1.6 cam, 30# injectors, and ceramic coated long tube headers into a custom made 3" exhaust ending in stock LT1 mufflers.
Posted on: 2009/6/18 19:43
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Re: Tunning questions |
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I know its rich at idle, You think it is above idle too?
So I take it my split is still more than normal I will look for the leak. Thank you very much.
Posted on: 2009/6/18 1:36
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Re: Tunning questions |
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No one can help? I have 93 octane in it now, going to check the header bolts tomorrow and run another scan if I can get the time. I could sure use a point in the right direction though.
Posted on: 2009/6/17 23:50
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Re: Tunning questions |
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Ok looks like that file may be a bit big. I will try again with one thats a little smaller. I did manage to lean the over all mixture some on this one and I advanced the spark a bit in some places. Ok to see if this one works.
Posted on: 2009/6/14 19:19
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Tuning questions |
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I think I may be getting close with my tune but have a few questions. How much if any BLM split is normal if any for a modified car? Is any knock retard bad? I had heard as long as its less than 3 deg. its good, I am getting about 1.5 at timesbut I also have 89 octane in it. I will be putting 92 in it next fill up and see if there is any improvment.
I'm going to attach my last datamaster scan if anyone wants to look at it and point out something I might be missing. I know its still a bit rich at idle I am working on that still. Would the rich idle cause a slight stumble starting off?
Posted on: 2009/6/14 19:13
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Re: Bad optispark always give a code? |
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The picture is of spark plug wires with the insulation gone ware they were touching the headers. The tach bouncing around started before this. I just took it out for a test drive with a new opti and new wires its running good now. I did not notice if the tach was acting up just went for a quick drive.
Posted on: 2009/6/12 22:24
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Re: MSD Optispark with wrong connector, now what? |
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Well job is done and its running great, I can finally work on the tune. I took the PS pump loose and that didn't get me any ware. I don't see how removing the pulley would help much more so off with the Water pump... Again!! After I got it off I noticed the belt tensioner is right where I wanted to be working and only has 1 bolt holding it on so I took that off too. I am wandering now though if I could have got the plugs on by only removing the tensioner.
Posted on: 2009/6/12 22:17
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Re: MSD Optispark with wrong connector, now what? |
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I can see how pulling the pulley off would make things a bit better but pressing it back on in there is the problem. I like the idea of taking the hole pump loose right now but I have not started the job yet. New plug wires should be here overnight so tomorrow I will be up to my eyes in back ache.
Posted on: 2009/6/12 0:18
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Re: Optispark challenged |
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I saw on a post else ware that the coil wire touching the water pump can cause issues.
Posted on: 2009/6/11 22:10
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Re: Rocker help |
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All of them. Some worse than others the one pictured is a bit above average. It looks to me like they are still good rockers if used in the proper application.
Posted on: 2009/6/11 19:35
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Re: MSD Optispark with wrong connector, now what? |
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I looked it didn't look removable, crimped on. Did I miss something?
Posted on: 2009/6/11 19:11
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Re: MSD Optispark with wrong connector, now what? |
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I think loosening the PS pump sounds like a good idea I did understand what you had to say. I don't think the alternator would help much the bracket under it blocks almost everything anyway. Pulling the water pump makes for a lot of extra room but it sucks draining the radiator again so I think I will probably try and work on it with that pump in place and pull it as a last resort.
Posted on: 2009/6/11 19:09
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Re: Rocker help |
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Me too, it and the oil has been changed twice in the last 100 miles so I think I have a good chance of surviving this.
Posted on: 2009/6/11 19:02
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Re: MSD Optispark with wrong connector, now what? |
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Yea jdtireman said water pump. I just wish there was a way from underneath or something. I know its not easy.
Posted on: 2009/6/11 18:21
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Re: MSD Optispark with wrong connector, now what? |
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I know pulling the water pump would make it a lot easier but I really don't want to do that again so soon. Seems like the pump should at least stay on for a week.
Posted on: 2009/6/11 18:03
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Re: Rocker help |
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This is update day so if this is a repeat for some sorry about that I just know I like to see the final resolution when I read a thread.
Anyway the rockers got loud again, or maybe they never really quieted down as much as I thought. It turns out the GM rockers I used are not compatible with the springs and keepers Lloyd Elliot used when he did my heads and they hit. Now I have scorpions on the car and almost no rocker noise at all.
Posted on: 2009/6/11 17:34
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Re: Mechanic in Cleveland area. |
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Time for a update. I took the car to Gearheads. Very nice guys and extreamly reasonable price. I dont know anyplace that will work on a car for around $50 an hour let alone a speed shop working on a corvette. They fixed the exhaust leaked by welding up the bottom part of the header openings and grinding them back flat.
Before After They also found out why I could not get my rockers adjusted, they were always macking a lot of noise. Turns out the GM rockers are not compatable with the keepers Lloyd Elliot used when he did my heads.
Posted on: 2009/6/11 17:25
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Re: Bad optispark always give a code? |
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Ok updating after replacing the opti and it still running like crap I found this.
I don't know how I missed that changing the opti but I am fairly sure its the problem.
Posted on: 2009/6/11 17:12
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Re: MSD Optispark with wrong connector, now what? |
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It looks like I may have found my problem.
I don't know how I missed this while installing the new optispark. I am sure the reason I could not see the arching in a dark garage was because they were touching the header and making such a small spark with isolation covering what little there was and it was all happening under the alternator. So now I get to replace spark plug wires one the hardest side to work on. Anyone want to give me some advice about the easiest way to run these wires?
Posted on: 2009/6/11 15:56
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Re: MSD Optispark with wrong connector, now what? |
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I just ordered a coil, it was cheep so I figured why not. I am going to test the ignition module when I am able to find the procedure. The air filter was changed last year but I should probably get in there and see what it looks like anyway.
Posted on: 2009/6/10 14:55
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Re: MSD Optispark with wrong connector, now what? |
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Ok new opti is in and the car runs worse than ever. Now its a bad miss even at idle and now there is a backfire too. If I have time tomorrow I am going to go over everything again and make sure I did not miss anything like crossing plug wires but I was pretty careful so I do not expect to find anything.
Posted on: 2009/6/10 0:31
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Re: MSD Optispark with wrong connector, now what? |
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Ahh the missing piece of information... What I was upset about being wrong turns out to be a poorly documented improvement. thank you very much for the help.
Posted on: 2009/6/9 1:27
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MSD Optispark with wrong connector, now what? |
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OK got my new MSD optispark today and it has the wrong size 4 conductor connector. The MSD unit is almost twice the size of the OEM. Is there an adapter for this or if someone could help me out with part numbers I could make my own adapter. I have been looking for something but everything I find that looks like it does not have dimensions so I don't know if they are the big little or another size. Please help this is all driving me nuts.
Posted on: 2009/6/8 23:50
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Re: Bad optispark always give a code? |
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Thank you Bill sounds like great advice. I was not going to try and fix this one and put it back in I just wanted to know what part if any went bad. I am hopping now that it is the opti. Would suck a ton if I spent all this money and did all this work and it was something else.
Posted on: 2009/6/5 22:09
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Re: Bad optispark always give a code? |
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That sounds like a likely possibility I will have to take this one apart when I get it off and see just what is anything is wrong with it.
Posted on: 2009/6/5 13:26
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Re: Bad optispark always give a code? |
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I think the fuel pressure is probably good, before it got real bad it ran best at wide open. How do you do a ICM check?
Posted on: 2009/6/4 22:33
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Re: Bad optispark always give a code? |
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I went ahead and ordered the MSD from the other place, only $50 more for a nice vented one. I don't think I would mess with a rebuilt one, I wander what they mean by without the module?
Posted on: 2009/6/4 22:30
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Re: Bad optispark always give a code? |
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New plugs and wires I did check for arcing yesterday also and its pitch black under the hood.
Posted on: 2009/6/4 22:09
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Re: Bad optispark always give a code? |
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If it only does it when its damp I would suspect something else, wires seems like a good place to start.
Posted on: 2009/6/4 19:51
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Re: Bad optispark always give a code? |
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That one is just cap and rotor this is the full optispark from there. Better availability but still $500 I guess I will look around and see if I can get a better price otherwise it looks like a good place to order from.
Posted on: 2009/6/4 19:39
Edited by bogus on 2014/5/2 1:54:51
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Re: Bad optispark always give a code? |
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What symptoms did you get?
Posted on: 2009/6/4 19:05
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Bad optispark always give a code? |
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My 93 LT1 Vette is running real rough. Idles rough steady miss under acceleration and sometimes stalls. The tac is also bouncing around a lot it use to hold fairly steady but now can jump several thousand RPM. All of this is exactly how it ran when the optispark went out except that time I got a code that pointed me in the right direction this time nothing. Last time it did run even worse I almost could not get it to start at all several times. Maybe I am just not to a catastrophic failure yet? I did have a leaking radiator hose right over the top of it so for that reason alone I think its a likely suspect I just don't want to spend $500 for something I may not need. If I do need one I plan to go with the vented MSD this time and hopefully it will last a little longer. Where is the best place to get one? Summet is almost 2 months to ship and seems a bit high in price.
Posted on: 2009/6/4 18:30
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Re: Mechanic in Cleveland area. |
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Thanks Dale I will get ahold of them.
Posted on: 2009/5/6 12:40
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