All Posts (Schrade)
Re: Here we go again; injector install... |
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A DREMEL??? ARE I CRAZY???
Shop-Vac loose debris. Nylon brush on Dremel; polish the INJ rail ports.
Posted on: 2016/7/1 19:07
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Re: Here we go again; injector install... |
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Shop-Vac loose debris.
Posted on: 2016/6/30 15:40
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Re: Here we go again; injector install... |
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O-Rings. Pffttt... this thing ain't scared of an O-Ring (not wile already running anyway) - ask ME how I know THAT!!!
Funny story too - was doing FINE tuning on it 2 years ago, and I misunderstood steps on other Boards; "test something, running, then pull IAC, and observe again for difference". (he didn't insert 'shutdown', between 'running,', and 'then pull IAC'. I know motors, but didn't know much of LT-5, so I did it, and I observed - a couple things... I observed the IAC O-Ring get sucked into the hole, along with a big RPM INcrease. Only a whiff of burning rubber. Gone so fast, I couldn't get to the back of the car fast enough to find out which bank of cylinders won the fight. Quote:
Posted on: 2016/6/30 13:26
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Re: Here we go again; injector install... |
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Separate the rails, prep for a gusher, rock gently (don't forget the line retainer), and removed.
Now, wait for some gas to evap, and Shop-Vac more debris. Attach file: IMG_8563c.JPG (824.61 KB) IMG_8564c.JPG (769.17 KB) IMG_8565c.JPG (838.82 KB) IMG_8570c.JPG (865.32 KB)
Posted on: 2016/6/29 21:05
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Re: Here we go again; injector install... |
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Shop-Vac loose debris. Pull INJ connectors, bag connector harnesses. INJ interfaces clean + di-electric grease.
And pull INJ clips! Attach file: IMG_8548c.JPG (894.31 KB) IMG_8557c.JPG (783.42 KB) IMG_8554c.JPG (988.09 KB) IMG_8559c.JPG (914.63 KB)
Posted on: 2016/6/29 19:31
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Re: Here we go again; injector install... |
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Had to yank plenum here Matt; INJ's are buried.
To the car wash. No matter WHERE you stand, when you stick the wand in ONE hole, ANOTHER hole is pointed right in your mug. PTHAHHH... Grease-free, and Shop-Vac all the holes. (local water like is Campbell's Soup - Chunky Style; drink it with a fork) Ig Module cleaned and bagged; ready for new heat sink paste.
Posted on: 2016/6/29 11:57
Edited by Schrade on 2016/6/29 12:17:03
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Re: Here we go again; injector install... |
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Inside [clean] work.
Pull ignition module. Wipe heat sink paste. Bag Ig Mod. Plenum to car wash. Car wash jet wand to EVERY orifice / port in plenum. Safety glasses, and keep yer mouth SHUT!!! And wash off plenum before carwash...
Posted on: 2016/6/29 0:36
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Re: Here we go again; injector install... |
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Leaker caught in the act:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBMmn50pwzU The leak STOPPED at 1:09, not increased, when I re-primed the rails. Jon FIC said cause the INJ disk rotated to seal point (like it's ALWAYS supposed to be) How do you embed vids here Matt?
Posted on: 2016/6/28 21:24
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Here we go again; injector install... |
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Money I'll never get back - new injectors.
(car will be listed F/S upon completion) Timed Static Fuel Pressure leakdown video and breakdown startup... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAf6Itb0r2Q Drain some coolant. TB + some other hardware out of way. A PUDDLE of gas atop #2 secondary intake. Wicked out with a paper towel, and POOF! Attach file: IMG_8507c.JPG (817.55 KB) IMG_8508c.JPG (973.08 KB) IMG_8527c.JPG (765.01 KB) IMG_8530c.JPG (791.58 KB)
Posted on: 2016/6/28 0:35
Edited by Schrade on 2016/6/28 1:10:59
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Re: So much for going drag racing tomorrow |
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I made my living owning a Courier & Delivery - pretty well too...
$54 doesn't surprise me. Quote:
Posted on: 2016/6/22 16:02
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Re: So much for going drag racing tomorrow |
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Workspace - that's one reason I WAS considering selling the Z - had to clear space for new projects, before starting...
But now that an INJ is leaking (in addition to oil catch can work), it has returned to the 'project table'. Quote:
Posted on: 2016/6/21 15:09
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Re: So much for going drag racing tomorrow |
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Can ALWAYS be a 'worse time' for the weak link to break...
No hardware damage?
Posted on: 2016/6/14 17:09
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Re: Static leakdown times... (FP) |
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Yes there are clips Andy, now that I remember; I posted a tip even on it, on Z boards - don't remember what was up tho'...
Already talked to Jon / FIC about new ones; I did think of spray test, if I could figure it out myself here. But they are originals - probably do need replacing, as much as I'm against replacing parts blindly....................
Posted on: 2016/6/9 10:28
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Re: Static leakdown times... (FP) |
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Already had this in mind here Andy, but am wondering ...
Will INJ's stay in place 'hanging' in the rails, with pressure, removed from motor? Was trying to think of a way to do same, with rails/INJ/Inj Housing assembled, plenum out, somehow 'suspended' above heads, to observe guilty party[ies]. Still will probably replace all 16 tho'... Quote:
Posted on: 2016/6/8 1:50
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Re: Temporary oil catch can start-up... |
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Did a :30 minute ride. OIL! AND DEBRIS!!!!!!!
Oil doesn't bother me. Debris BOTHERS ME. The RTV seal holding the Scotch-Brite pad in place inside the jar gave in, when the can collapsed. So the debris could be some RTV particles. When I assembled the jar, I cut it at one of the indentions so that I could 'slip-joint' them back together, and they did, TIGHTLY, about 1" overlap. I even wrapped PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride) tape around the seam. I didn't HEAR any hissing when the jar collapsed. ??????? So now I see that the collapse broke the slip-joint 'seal', and the tape 'assist', and I'm HOPING that that accounts for the debris (from OUTside PCV system). Also, atmosphere was DRY today, no humidity, so, also hoping that THAT accounts for the debris (from OUTside PCV system). Time to wrench - plenum pull for INJ's, and check out PCV System...
Posted on: 2016/6/8 0:10
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Static leakdown times... (FP) |
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Just did the [famous] 'Top End Rebuild' 18 months ago - probably 750 miles since.
Almost zero leakdown at re-assembly for 10 minutes. Then lost a socket, had to break down rails in searching, sheared an O-Ring on RE-re-assembly, and had to fix THAT, and again, almost zero leakdown. I had the TB off for oil catch can experiment, and thought I smelled some gas, so I did FP leakdown. Not so good, BOTH times. Pretty strong gas smell with throttle body off, after tests. Hadn't run for 2 days too... Just confirmed TWICE more; 4 - 5 second priming, return line pinched, no gas in FPR vac line, although THAT wouldn't matter not running. (same results +/- 1PSI as last week 2 tests) 0:00 sec - 50, 50 0:15 - 47, 48 0:30 - 45, 45 0:45 - 43, 43 1:00 - 42, 42 1:15 - 41, 40 1:30 - 40, 40 1:45 - 38, 39 2:00 - 37, 37 ... 10:00 - 20 PSI Replace INJ's? Or not? I been trying to sell her since November. Don't NEED to sell; just need shop space for work on my GMC. Jon / FIC wants $700 for INJ's - not a big deal, but of course, you don't get that back when you sell. You MIGHT get a little more back if photo-doc'ed tho'... Anyone else got NEW INJ's?
Posted on: 2016/6/7 20:50
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Re: Temporary oil catch can start-up... |
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Quote:
I think [hope] that the hose got collapsed between the coupler, where I dis-connected it in the video), and the twin PCV cap. I didn't notice if it was when I started it up... Quote: Also, if the seals are leaking, then the oil will go into the cylinders not the crankcase LT-5 '91, and '92, were made without valve stem seals on all 16 ex valves. All the Z guys said that, then I saw it in FSM. Probably added by Stillwater after so many owners noted the oil burn at startup.............. But now a bigger problem - fuel pressure leakdown. *&^%$
Posted on: 2016/6/7 20:42
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Re: Temporary oil catch can start-up... |
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Quote:
I inhaled and exhaled through 2 SB Pads. Almost ZERO flow resistance. Besides, you might see in the video, that when I dis-connected the coupler (on the PCV side), it sucked good air through the jar. Well, the piece of tube that's removed for the experiment IS made of Aluminum, so I guess NO surprise that the jar collapsed. But the surprise IS that I got NO oil, OR NO OIL VAPORS through the jar. THAT is either because the PCV's are fouled (doubt that), or there really is NOT that much oil/oil vapor pulled through the PCV's to start with. (but still, there was the NEW oil POOLED at the PCV INLET port, in the plenum, after half a dozen Closed Loops, following top end rebuild - THAT'S why I still think PCV pulls lots of oil) The start-up Blue exhaust is because the motor was made withOUT valve stem seals on ALL 16 ex valves. Common problem for even low-mile LT-5's - exacerbated by my 5W-30 lightweight oil, I think. I added a quart of 90W-140 gear oil, but with 11 qts 5W-30 ALREADY in the motor, that probably only raised oil weight to about 12 x 38 - not enough to reduce what drains through ex valve stems, or reduce crankcase oil fuming to PCV's. So is the SLIGHT, CONTINUOUS oil burn apparently coming through PCV's? Or even ex valve stems??? Matt - the 'can' is between the 2 PCV's (joined by a cap -> one tube), and the plenum port that draws all PCV vapors. Quote:
Posted on: 2016/6/7 18:20
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Re: Temporary oil catch can start-up... |
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I just noticed the 3 arrows circled Red.
HUH? They go straight through INJ Housing, from big hose, to hose #3. THat's a mistake...
Posted on: 2016/6/7 18:19
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Re: Temporary oil catch can start-up... |
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I thought of how restricting the membrane might be before assembly. I held it over my mouth, breathed in and out, has about zero resistance.
(also wanted to see if I'd get any plastic particles, as Brian C mentioned; none) Only thought then in fact, was would it even separate oil from air. I added a SECOND pad even, and could hardly tell the difference. In the video, you might be able to see the collapsed can START to expand back, when I disconnected the coupler, then put my finger back on the coupler. Quote:
Posted on: 2016/6/6 16:11
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Re: Temporary oil catch can start-up... |
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2 hoses - each coming from the 'intercept' points in PCV lines.
One (vacuum - the 90' elbow) goes only under the lid of can, the other, coming from twin PCV's cap, goes to bottom of can. Air in can passes through SCOTCH-BRITE 'membrane', to separate oil.
Posted on: 2016/6/5 13:34
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Temporary oil catch can start-up... |
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I was able to rule out ONLY that enough airflow is NOT getting to 'can'.
I got no oil; not even vapors... Video here: (if you can embed here Matthew / Andy) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrJPSnIhbHs
Posted on: 2016/6/5 2:23
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Re: Car is running rich |
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O2 readings from Lt side vs Rt side???
Static FP tests with leakdown time? Leaky INJ (excess fuel, NOT burning), will light up in HOT exhaust pipes, from 'lean' burn...
Posted on: 2016/5/30 1:11
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Re: Oil catch can / plumbing... |
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Pipe bender didn't get it - no correct leverage.
So for now, the aluminum pipe section is out, and vacuum lines to this guy, with couplings, are going in. And again, this is not permanent; only to get an idea of VOLUME of oil going through PCV system.......
Posted on: 2016/5/27 23:56
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Re: Oil catch can / plumbing... |
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With a pipe bender, I'm going to put a 180' in the Red pipe end, to go UNDER the Red coolant manifold.
They're only 1/2" apart, so elbows ain't gonna' do it.
Posted on: 2016/5/27 18:31
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Re: Oil catch can / plumbing... |
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In circle, you can barely see 2 intake ports - left is from cam cover, right from PCV.
Posted on: 2016/5/27 18:25
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Re: Oil catch can / plumbing... |
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Got a plan here.
You can see the oil that's pooled at the PCV intake port.
Posted on: 2016/5/27 18:21
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Re: Oil catch can / plumbing... |
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Looks good there Jeff... What year? You put in valve stem seals too?
Does it cycle the oil back to crankcase? Or get disposed through 'service'? I saw the oil pooled in the plenum, at the PVC intake port. CLEAN oil, so I want it cycled back to crankcase. You got a schematic for the device?
Posted on: 2016/5/6 21:13
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Re: Oil catch can / plumbing... |
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A bead of Black RTV around the perimeter of the Scotch-Brite, spun around to seal.
2 sections slip-jointed together, 3M tape. Lotta' work for 'prototype'. Should know what to do with Polycarbonate tubing when I find it.......
Posted on: 2016/5/6 18:39
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Re: Oil catch can / plumbing... |
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Still wracking my brain on this (yeah - all 2 brain cells)...
First mock-up - trial / error, I'm looking at this right now: (I really want to have some polycarbonate cylindrical tubing - that would be ideal. Looking around now) Anyway, with the plastic jar CUT at a 'ring', they 'slip-jointed back together. They WILL seal. Some Scotch-Brite, cut for the cylinder, not YET sealed. Probably go with RTV around the perimeter. 2 vent tubes through the cap: input THROUGH the Scotch-Brite; and the Output pulling from ABOVE the Scotch-Brite. No 'drain' implemented yet here................ When you stop laughing, try to feedback here???
Posted on: 2016/5/6 17:26
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Re: Sagging headliner repair, glasstop removable screen [snsappics]... |
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Embroidered WOULD be nicer.
Would also be TONS more work...
Posted on: 2016/4/26 15:26
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Re: Sagging headliner repair, glasstop removable screen [snsappics]... |
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Means ya' want one - right there j3 ???
Got 12 Black comin', 4 Red, 4 Ruby, 4 Grey; all with C4 logo, + 'CORVETTE'. Pics when in hand.................
Posted on: 2016/4/26 0:41
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Re: Sagging headliner repair, glasstop removable screen [snsappics]... |
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Silk screened there Andy.
Posted on: 2016/4/24 21:29
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Re: Low voltage indication... |
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No - not fuel pump voltage, I don't think. THat's a separate read on Tech 1.
Both Tech 1, and handheld programmer for tranny control module are showing low voltage 11.2V. Both plug in to cigarette lighter, but both are NOT reading Voltage @ cigarette lighter (although THAT could also be 11.2V...) I cannot find wiring schematic for ALDL Leads in 8A.
Posted on: 2016/4/24 20:26
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Re: Low voltage indication... |
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I guess the question is, on what channel in ALDL is the B+ signal coming in on?
Posted on: 2016/4/20 22:46
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Low voltage indication... |
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Where in FSM is ALDL Schematic?
Battery is new, DVM indicates 12.9 V across terminals. Tech 1 shows 11.2 volts, motor off. Motor running shows 13+ V. Nard to tell exactly what gauge is reading... ALDL Ground is good - DVM showed full B+ power in ALDL Terminal A; Ground Connector. None of the ALDL Terminals is B+, that I see... Handheld for tranny control module ALSO shows 11.2V, motor off, and full B+, motor running. Help?
Posted on: 2016/4/20 20:04
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Re: Sagging headliner repair, glasstop removable screen [snsappics]... |
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I'm having a few more headliners printed up - need a rough count to order here...
Anyone interested? They'll be under $30 shipped. Matt - you ever get yours installed? Any pics?
Posted on: 2016/4/18 18:34
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Re: Oil catch can / plumbing... |
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It's being pulled through twin PCV lines hc - and it's a LOT of oil. I got syn 30 weight, and lighter oil more readily pulls into the PCV than 40 weight.
Matt - it's really too much oil to have it not dump automatically somehow. You'd be surprised to see the volume. Designers likely had it in mind for extra protection, for the record-setting run in '90. Brian - are the 2 cans in parallel (doesn't look like they're in series at all there). Or are they completely separate? Hard to tell by the diagram there... Quote:
Posted on: 2016/4/18 18:31
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Re: Oil catch can / plumbing... |
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THat's it - an EGR Solenoid Valve - diverts vacuum for EGR Duty Cycle!!!
Now - how to route oil drain BACK to the pan? Or to the port in the valve cover??????????
Posted on: 2016/4/18 0:27
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Oil catch can / plumbing... |
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Do you have one? Pictures? How do you keep it from filling?
'90 LT-5 was assembled without valve stem seals, and I got an oil burn at startup that has always bothered me. Even after 10 minutes restart, I get the blue puff. BESIDES that, PCV pull a LOT of oil. When I did top end rebuild, I pulled the TB after half dozen Closed Loop idles, and saw a pool of oil inside plenum, at the PCV-to-plenum inlet (Yellow Circle). I wouldn't have believed how much oil PCV pulls otherwise. So ideally, the PCV inlet should be routed in FRONT of air filter, NOT behind TB. But how to maintain vacuum? How to seal the hose??? Otherwise, an oil catch can for LT-5 would need a drain valve, opened when motor is OFF, that would allow the oil to drain BACK to crankcase. Motor vacuum would keep the valve closed for proper operation while running. Thoughts? Ideas?
Posted on: 2016/4/17 19:55
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Re: Lean burn Rt Bank INJ's; DTC 64........... |
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I would have looked earlier FOR that, but it was NOT loping.
Few and FAR BETWEEN are the internal combustion motors that will NOT lope, with a vac leak - carb'ed or EFI. Now, to verify that LT trims are returning to 128........
Posted on: 2016/4/8 11:48
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Re: Need some electrical smarts. |
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19 AMPS is a LOT. Perhaps the reading is off 2 decimal places for meter setting?
Yay or nay, I would disconnect the battery NOW, and LEAVE IT, until you can start testing INDIVIDUAL circuits. 19 Amps (or less, depending on what's in the car - wiring-wise), will start a fire in SHORT ORDER.
Posted on: 2016/4/8 11:44
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Re: Lean burn Rt Bank INJ's; DTC 64........... |
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Fuel pressure is good - it dropped from 44 -> 43 PSI after about a minute.
Fuel is clean - no water. So I'm glancing over ANYthing, and I see a problem. A Vac Port Cap is MIA. Could it be????????????????????????????
Posted on: 2016/4/6 17:30
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Re: Lean burn Rt Bank INJ's; DTC 64........... |
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I didn't solder the splices in the O2 extension.
The problem has 'improved', but still Rt side trim is 150 - 160 - too far from 128. I say improved, because it no longer is tripping DTC 64. Water in fuel? I haven't bled off any fuel to look for water yet. Haven't checked fuel pressure yet. If it was the cheap splice connectors that I used for O2 extension, that wouldn't likely 'improve'............
Posted on: 2016/4/6 0:48
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Re: Lean burn Rt Bank INJ's; DTC 64........... |
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Tech 1 shows NORMAL fluctuation in O2 voltage Rt Side.
Intermittent DTC 64.
Posted on: 2016/4/5 20:18
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Anyone?
Ebay listing is back up there Matt; gonna' try to get him UNDER $50 in a day or 2 here... (no, not stressin' on it; just gotta' make that right )
Posted on: 2016/3/31 15:06
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The pic was 2 years ago Matt - shoulda' said that.
I was photo-doc'ing headers install, and was asking guys on Z boards about heat concerns, to the O2 harness. But heat turned out NOT to be a concern, because she ran AT LEAST 12-15 degrees COOLER, with wrapped headers + 3" pipes, over OEM exhaust (some said 'possible', one said 'no'). I know it is, but that's not the issue....... But a couple of them DID say to not use the connector that I used, and I'm about 99% sure that that's the problem right now, causing Rt Side lean burn. Step 1 Flow Chart is to check for voltage running warm FIXED below 350 mV...
Posted on: 2016/3/27 9:31
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Lean burn Rt Bank INJ's; DTC 64........... |
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DTC 64.
I was warned about this when I did top end rebuild 2 years ago - using a crappy splice connector. Nope. Same connector used by the shop that did my tranny conversion, and just recently caused need for the CCM pull, for Dimmer Circuit... I didn't buy the extension for the O2 harness; rather cut the harness, and re-splice. Worked fine for 2 years. Either re-splice, or buy the extension, FOR WHICH lifting the Rt Side motor mount is necessary, to get to the harness connector. Damn............................................ Quote:
Posted on: 2016/3/27 0:56
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SIR Adapter for Tech 1 |
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Anyone got one I can buy to send to Matt?
Posted on: 2016/3/15 13:52
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Anyone ELSE got an SIR Adapter that I can buy and have sent to Matt?
If anyone sees one, JUMP ON IT, and I'll have it paid within a day or 2. 3rd time in about 4 years that USPS has jammed me without recourse. Kinda' surprised that the $ didn't fall out too.
Posted on: 2016/3/15 13:38
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