Get the broad band type clamps; they really spread the load on the rubber - no cutting into them. Available from Jegs, for one...

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Check 8A Flow Chart for Fan Stays on. Read the ENTIRE Flow Chart for a clue...

Have you checked continuity on all channels in ALDL?

And it's easier to follow if you can break up into paragraphs.....

Can you get a propane torch on the nut, then see if it will take penetrating lube while nut is heat-swelled?

How's it goin' on the Fuel Pump diagnostics?

Broken Breaker Bar? Too much Gym time there Arnold...

Jackstands? You'd be surprised at what I've got done with 'em, including complete exhaust - headers to tips...

Pics? What's involved in the fix?

Make SURE to seat the caps inside the little tabs in the yokes.

You hardly notice one is outside the tab, till the bolts are cross-threaded with the strap not aligning the holes.

And being fine-threaded bolts, they'll go a long ways X-threaded before you realize it.................

One at a time Steve. Divide and conquer.

You have the battle plan in the book. Each plan will ask if ANOTHER problem is present, use plan for THAT problem first. STAY focused.

Been readin'? Got a plan of attack? You will need a multimeter there...


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You'd be surprised here Steve, at all the stuff I've been able to do without a shop, lifts, etc. And I have a slight handicap after tangling with a drinker 10 years ago (him dead).

The fanciest shop, all the fancy tools, don't do much better, unless you're in a hurry cause you're a professional. It's the INFO that makes the difference.

Take your time, do it yourself, do it RIGHT...

Do you have OEM Circuitry?

I can scan n post schematics for '90 from FSM here...

He's just completed coding to burn this chip Jeff. $99.

Bus. phone is (573) 578-9590. I have his personal cell, PM to you - wait to call it, to make sure he doesn't mind me disclosing it here..

sales@batee.com

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3rd Gen? Is this L-98?

40* sounds like a default reading.

I got '90 FSM to scan + post for IAT Sensor, unless you already have it...

Don't buy that one - get one from the links that Bill or I posted.

Forget this one Steve - seller edited listing after I contacted him.

Listing does NOT include both books!!!!!!!

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more...

Took the LCD from this Cluster, and put in the one that Bryan at batee.com serviced.

Now, Bryan has a chip adapter that allows '90, '91 CCM to talk to '92 - '96 LCD.

Cleanup, DE Grease on bulb seats, wax lens, pack.

Some befores n afters...

I thought Steve's car was '94, for some reason. Body is later, anyway...

I'd still pay $300 for ANY FSM.

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That's ONE of them Steve.

Here's the second:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-CHEVY-CO ... :y9YAAOSw8d9U1DUm&vxp=mtr

Offer the seller $47.50 shipped. Worth it even at $64.50...

edit:
$30 SHIPPED!!! BUY IT TODAY.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-CHEVY-CO ... :y9YAAOSw8d9U1DUm&vxp=mtr

2nd edit:
When you see this one for $30, post up if you're going to buy it. If not, I will, because it's easily a $50 re-sale.

BOTH BOOKS FOR $44.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/282100508879? ... geName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

FSM is factory shop manual. Should be available on eBay...

What codes do you have?

You HAVE TO have FSM. Codes will defer to a LOWER Code # usually, and when you fix one, higher # codes sometimes will also be fixed.

Diagnosis leads to circuits in common. If you're starting school, following diagnostic flow charts will help you focus on schoolwork EQUALLY well. AND show EXACTLY what's wrong with the car...

Have you got one yet?

THat sounds like an 'EN-ablement' there Steve, which should be electrically ok, IF DONE CORRECTLY - if all he did was by-pass the clutch switch for starter enable...

'Course, if your parked in the wrong place, and try to start it in gear, it could be a problem!!!

Haynes / chitons usually aren't much help. Don't know bishko...

Really need FSM to be sure there - need to ID the circuit, and find out what's on that line (besides probably fuel pump).

And it sounds like it' a Switched circuit; not a Hot At All Times circuit.

If a harness fusible link cooked, you should have multiple codes - have you checked codes yet?

I'd seriously consider getting FSM, to start proper diagnostics. Even if you don't want to do the repair, you can save your wrench buddy lots of 'fishing time'...

You did not put in a new Fusible Link without diagnosing what cooked the old one???

You're going to a different mechanic than the one who left the relays hanging?

I wouldn't do that, without seeing a schematic for the relay, or knowing Amp draws in the circuits anyway.

Relays often carry much different current in each of the 2 circuits, like the Fan Relays that I posted above.

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Looks like you got 4 different repairs goin' on here Steve - makes it a little harder to help follow progress of each one...

NO pressure? There should have been some residual fuel pressure. Pumps don't usually fail while running.

Whatever test you do for pump, don't hold the connection for longer than 2 seconds - it will cook in short order.

For relay test (ONLY relay, not pump itself (and you will need FSM to ID the 4 leads):

IF FP Relay is like cooling fan relays, test for INCOMING 12V to relay. Then test 12V ground.

Then put in a paperclip to close THAT circuit.

Then test the other 2 sockets for continuity.

Here's a schematic for CF Relays - never mind my notes - I didn't know what I was doin' (still don't most times).

You'll need to determine which circuit is 'master' circuit (D-F), and which is 'slave' circuit (A-E).

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What's fuel pressure?

'corrupted content error' ?

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Where did you find those FSM pics Brian?

I thought I had them scanned and posted here (for '94), but can't find them???

edit:
found the link in another forum thread, but it takes you off the boards -
http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... t_id=49963#forumpost49963

Bill Matt Andy?

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YUP.

Got the same stuff here that Brian posted - this is '94 too:

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If you work with computers, you can diagnose the problem. Don't have to be a mechanic to do that.

Proper diagnosis is 99% of the solution.

Where in NC?

Any pics?

Buyer sent a new Cluster - test, Cleanup, Grounds check, etc.

This one is pretty filthy.

Daryll...

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Sometimes belts slip (NOT Serp Belts) when cold startup, but never hot re-start.

Serp Belts don't know???

Warmed up mill takes up a little belt tension???

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Thanks! Couldn't (probably wouldn't have, till another time) without ya' there..........

Now, back to the sill trim here.

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Any pics of breakdown there ANdy?

I think Darryl said you have to drill rivets to open it up?

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Wow; what a wrestling match WWE Survivor Series getting seat back onto Track Assembly.

It's obligatory that ONE bolt will cross-thread. Then you have to run THAT bolt into a good hole, AND IT GETS HOT, even greased. And run a GOOD bolt into the first hole. Monkey see, monkey do - HOT, but in correctly.

In. Forward seat with Forward switch, imagine that, and REARWARD TOO, miracles don't stop !

3 hours, 2 mixed drinks, 5 Chrome wrenches, one socket, one hammer, and a



Solved.

Post Mortem on OEM Track later...

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Anyone see anything wrong there?

So the Seat wasn't close to matching up Mount Bolts. Hmmm...

And the Polarity is BACKWARDS.

Hmmm................................

Are the assembly in backwards? ALWAYS WATCH ME WRENCH THE WRONG WAY HERE.

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Track / Tranny in.

Note Zip Tie to prevent chafing harness under seat. Dry run good, EXCEPT polarity for Forward Backward is REVERSED!!! Connector cleaned, DE Grease, KEYED, so NOT in backwards...

???

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Goodies sent by buyer...

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Seat out, cleanup (ALWAYS BOLTS BACK IN HOLES, NUTS ON STUDS, ETC).

And Post Mortem, post eviction, should be VERY interesting here...

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Seat out. No goodies, no corner jam, save some dusts.

Access to Seat Mount bolts...

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HERE ... WE ... GO ... AGAIN ...

Common C4 failure - Power Seat Transmission / Track Failure.

(while I contemplate Sill Trim...)

Remove Seat CUSHION Base.

Remove Seat from Track Assembly.

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Need the blast cabinet for my guns.

What kind oscilloscope to right?

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Update; still 'Solved'...

New Batt in (over a year old, never installed), I/C still out, Cig Lite V reading 11.9V on HandHeld for Tranny Cont Mod, spun up, 13.9V.

(spun up instantly, smooth as a top - wanna' do the Nickle-On-Motor trick, but afraid if Nickle falls, I'll lose sleep (and NO start up [gas in] oil burn !!! ) ).

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VERY Informative discussion under Jay Eichenberg's comment - ",

INCLUDES SOME DIAGNOSTICS FOR LCD, WITH POLARIZED SUNGLASSES

HOW TO 'SAVE' F/B CONVERSATION???
--------------------------------------------------
Jay Eichenberg Mine are fading in areas, is that a bad LCD?


Chuck Buttermore IV George or Bryan would know better, but I bet there's greater hope for 'fading' segments, as opposed to 'gone' segments???

If Bryan can do a video of bench diagnostics, then a coder / programmer might be able to do it himself...

Chuck Buttermore IV And I'd SURE like to see MY bad LCD in ANOTHER bad I/Cluster, to see what displayed (or someone ELSE's bad LCD in MY Cluster.........................

Jay Eichenberg My stuff is there, just faded, happened with the windows down and sun beating directly on the IC. Chuck Buttermore IV do you want a link to the IC i found on Craigslist? He ships worldwide....

Chuck Buttermore IV Yeah - do that Jay , please, although I think I have a new LCD, IF necessary - waiting for Bryan's verdict...

Bryan A Thompson If it's constantly faded in these areas, it's likely the polarizing film. If the weak area moves around, the digital data pins (1-4) are the issue.

Chuck Buttermore IV Bryan Polar Film is middle piece?

Bryan A Thompson It's the grey transparent stuff that covers the glass panel. It's appplied to both sides, and then the factory graphics are applied over the top to provide turn signal high beam. http://batee.com/.../dcrg/services/9096_lcd_restoration.html
BATEE.COM - 84-96 Corvette Digital Cluster Parts and Services
batee.com

Chuck Buttermore IV And if so, wouldn't wax on that film act like Immersion Oil for microscope, for light conduction, killing diffraction?

Chuck Buttermore IV Got it. Is it Phosphate Coating that excites by electrons PHOTONS ! ? For translucency???

Chuck Buttermore IV Can polar filter FADING be determined with Polarized Sunglasses???

Chuck Buttermore IV WTH is George ??????????????????

George Rudolf Mezzomo Nope. LCDs contain, as the name says, crystals suspended in oil, between two layers of glass. When current is applied to a matrix etched into the glass (which makes up the graphics), it causes the crystals to react by organizing themselves in a certain...See More

Chuck Buttermore IV So the segments are NOT enclosed in some field, withIN the glass? It's totally a function of the Polarization?

George Rudolf Mezzomo The segments are just a conductive patch of glass. If no current reaches them, no change in crystal orientation. If polarizing film is faded, it won't block light properly and affected area will never darken. However, failed polarized has a quite distinct aspect to it, and in the worst cases, a quite noticeable acrid smell

Bryan A Thompson It is literal polarizing film. It blocks all light not moving in a single plane. When an electric field is applied to the liquid crystal material, it causes light passing through it to become polarized at a right angle to what it was coming in, or tw...See More

Chuck Buttermore IV So if there's 2 polararizing filters, on perpendicular axis, and one is failing, can it be tested with a polarized sunglasses lens???????

Bryan A Thompson If it isn't faded dark brown, and if it isn't the filter the light enters first (the rear film), it can be seen with polarized glasses. We give away remnants of the film to use for testing. It can be used front side or back side with a little more work.

Chuck Buttermore IV GOOD info (y)

Chuck Buttermore IV Test with Polar Film would be done by rotating 90' ???

Chuck Buttermore IV George "... the way they transmit [OR BLOCK] light..." - or BLOCK - right?

Bryan A Thompson Yes, the scraps aren't marked, so you really have to hold the film up to the panel and then rotate it through 180 degrees. If you see the data, it will likely be much weaker than it looks from the factory. This is normal, and it's because the old faded film is still in place.

Chuck Buttermore IV Got it.

George Rudolf Mezzomo Both, Chuck. They can either transmit or block

As a curiosity, I went about finding a dead/cracked LCD here and separated half of it. Glare is to show the oily film with the crystals

Chuck Buttermore IV Get testing on video there Bryan ; put it on the bill for service, if you can there...........

Bryan A Thompson The plane of polarization on the 90-96 filters are perpendicular to one another. This has the result of passing light when in the "off" state, and blocking light when the segment is on. If you would rather have black background and orange numbers, use two "top" filters or two "bottom" filters.

Chuck Buttermore IV That would be cool. But I think my LCD cannot be repaired ? Let me know, I think I've sourced another here... (Daniel)

George Rudolf Mezzomo Also as curiosity, the other half of the cracked panel I just showed. Marked in yellow the control circuitry, and you can sorta see the segments (pixels here) etched into the glass
George Rudolf Mezzomo's photo.

Bryan A Thompson It's too busy in the shop right now, but there are bench test videos on our YouTube channel. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNQtlxisD8JtPZC4NlRWohA
crazyuncleburton
Corvette Electronics parts and Repair. Digital Dashes, Climate Controls, and more.
youtube.com

Chuck Buttermore IV Can I see anything here that's out of order, in sunlight?
Chuck Buttermore IV's photo.

Bryan A Thompson We just started our own FB page. https://www.facebook.com/batee.engineering/
batee.com Engineering
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batee.com Engineering's photo.
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Chuck Buttermore IV Jay - get that? Test yours with some Ray-Bans or Oakleys?

Probably why my '94 was datastreaming perfect signal @ 89k @ rebuild, with 15 years on it...

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I think Bryan got hit n run accident; might be a while on I/C verdict...