All Posts (Fluff)
Re: WTF does your screen name mean? |
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Sorry skirlin.
To elaborate..... 'Fluff' is a track off a 70's Black Sabbath album. I used to use this track to ring-out (set EQ) on stage sound systems (not for Black Sabbath I'll add). The association became a nickname, but it's long lost in time and not used anymore and just came to mind when I joined CG.
Posted on: 2009/8/8 17:28
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Re: English Cuisine |
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My 'English' meals all taste the same if my wife cooks.
She hasn't got a temprature setting on the oven, she relies on the smoke alarm to tell her when somethings cooked!
Posted on: 2009/8/8 11:05
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Re: 84 z51 headlight |
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I could be totally wrong on this, I read up on it once, but can't find the info anymore!.
However, the 'something' that senses the spike is, as has been said, the 'headlight module' which is a solid state device, so I'd guess that this module controls both the logic signal (power spike in this case) and the voltage switching to the H/L's. I seem to recall (I may be wrong), that pre-89's also utilised an over-load relay in the circuit which was 'thermal' sensitive to the power 'spike'. I wonder with pappies hybred if there are any other components that needed changing to accomodate the later motors... so there could be some guess work involved. Just my thoughts, correct me if I'm wrong.
Posted on: 2009/8/8 10:54
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Re: WTF does your screen name mean? |
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Black Sabbath
Posted on: 2009/8/8 10:08
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Re: Loose steering |
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It seems to have a fair turn of accelaration for a little'un and I wonder if it is road legal considering the way they don't seem to care about driving through town!
Posted on: 2009/8/8 10:05
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Loose steering |
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I mentioned checking my wheel bearing in another thread. I think I've found a problem:-
Apologies if you've seen it before.
Posted on: 2009/8/7 17:27
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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Thanks Bill, but it was my fault for not reading properly.
I have the 93 FSM and will check out specs. I do sometimes get a very slight pulsation so Im going to put a dial gauge on the rotors and check the bearings etc., it could be that I'd get away with just indexing them, but if I can find a machine I'll probably get a quick skim anyway. One thing that has come to mind since I finished, is I wonder if it would have helped if I'd have pushed the pistons back into the calipers (and kinda chocked em there) before bleeding. I wonder if this would have helped by pushing any air & contamination back to the m/cyl rather than flush all the remaining cr*p through the system... any thoughts? My big concern at the moment is this start-up check and why I can't hear it. I feel that it would should up on the DIC if it wasn't happening. But I'm darned if I can hear any valves cycling.
Posted on: 2009/8/7 17:14
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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Quote:
Bill, I'm gonna be doing this again when the new m/cyl arrives, so to be prepared can I ask what 'switching the lines' involves?. Is this some kind of technique/routine that will help? /edit/ Dumb moment... I've just worked out what you're referring too... don't worry.
Posted on: 2009/8/7 16:17
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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Thanks for the heads-up Matthew. Looks like something else to sort out!.
I can hear a whirring/clicking when I turn the ignition, but I'd guessed this was the fuel pump priming. Can't say I've ever noticed any other noise when pulling away. Would I have some kind of indication on the DIC if it wasn't performing this test?. No, not usually anywhere near Bremen. I travel across to Saarbrucken which is more south/west near the French border. Don't take the vette with me anyway
Posted on: 2009/8/7 9:44
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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Yes, euroland, currently spending time between the UK, Germany (and Spain home).
I will go for the pads and just skim the rotors, if I can find a machine shop to do it. Shipping parts from the US usually involves exorbitant shipping charges and the rotors would bump this way up due to weight and when you add on the import duties & taxes (on the shipping cost as well) prices can sometimes total anywhere between half as much again up to double what you guys in the pay for the parts. Now off to find a Hawk brake pad supplier.
Posted on: 2009/8/6 23:05
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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Thanks Joel,
Perhaps I have a fault somewhere if I can't hear this check... I mean on the car, not me ear'oles, before anyone say's it! Well flushed the system twice more this morning including calipers. When you've been plonking around and doing test after test it's difficult to judge, but I think the brakes are back to (or perhaps a tad better) than before I started this whole excersize, I still have all the warning lights out, so I'm fairly happy. However, now that I've started and along with the recommend of Hawk pads, I think I'll continue and see if I can improve the braking more. After all this I've concluded, like many others, that the brakes don't match the cars performance. I'm going to trial it for a few days to see if there is anything crop up, but I will order a new m/cyl. I'll also go with new Hawk pads as suggested. Does anyone have any thoughts on whether it is worth new rotors as well as pads?. Mine aren't scored or anything and I don't need 'track' performance, but wonder if this kit is worth having:- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-89- ... uckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Any opinions guys, or is there something better? Thanks everyone for the help/input.
Posted on: 2009/8/6 14:23
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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I've read that the ABS/ASR module cycles all of it's valves once when the car hits 4-10mph after every ignition switch on. I guess a quick cycling isn't going to give enough time for much fluid to be flushed through and assume that this is where the TechII comes useful.
Having said that, the book say's that you should possibly hear these valves cycling when you reach 4-10mph the first time after ignition on, but I can't say I can hear anything even with the cubby bin open and the sound material removed. Does anyone hear this valve cycling on their car and is it a distictive/loud noise?.
Posted on: 2009/8/6 10:40
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Re: 84 z51 headlight |
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You may or may not be able to visual when the rollers go in the late type.
When mine started playing up you could see a little pile of creamy-white granules on the main chassis rails under the motors. They just disintergrate and spew out the remnants!
Posted on: 2009/8/5 21:14
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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Crikes that is expensive, might as well have the complete thing, not that there seems to be a kit for my 93 anyway.
I think the price is heavy because you have to replace the proportioning valve, the book says don't dismatle it because of special grease of all things!
Posted on: 2009/8/5 19:40
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Re: Worried after my oil change. [help!] |
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Quote:
I would 'guess' that if it ain't knocking (no slack in the bearing(s) ), you might not see a lot unless you start undoing rod and main caps. If a bearing has 'spun' there 'might' be squashed slithers of shell visible around the bearing, but I'd have thought you'd be hearing the knock at that stage. BUT, take no notice of me, I'm only thinking out loud and know nought about chevy motors. I just hope it ain't a biggy and lasts until your planned rebuild. Out of curiousity (because I'm a newby), what have you done (repairs/maintenance) over the past few months, any associations like valve guides (are chev's phosphor bronze?) anything else were a bush has been replaced or involvolved (oil pump or cam or something)? Good luck with it.
Posted on: 2009/8/5 19:16
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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Day three and the show goes on!. For anyone who's interested:-
First, tried removing the ABS fuse and couldn't notice any difference, but thanks for the suggestion Andy... worth a try. Matthew, I haven't ruled out the booster yet, but read on if your not bored wit the topic yet. Thats a thought Brian... new fluid old seals, I may have even made this worst today... dunno. 95Vette, yep I'd thought of removing the m/cyl, plus a bit more (below), but I didn't 'bench bleed', I had considered it but to be perfectly honest I couldn't find any plugs to block the unions... so:- I can't work out if the warning lights are a coinsidence or if there is a conection with the bad braking. It seems logical to say yes, but the book seems to indicate that the lights (all 3 on anyway) are more to do with the level sensor in the m/cyl resovoir. Anyway, I decided to go back to where I started ie dirty fluid and possible contamination, so...... I decided to rip off the m/cyl and strip it down. The problem with this is I don't have a replacement m/cyl (or a repair kit (if they do em?). However, as I have next to no brakes, I had nothing to lose even if to just try elimination. Well, I took it off and stripped it and found it had a fair share of muck and tarnish on the innards. Cleaned it all and reassembled, albeit with the old seals etc, but being careful to try not to nick any of the seal faces, put it back on the car, primed the module, bled the m/cyl and oo-arh mum... first thing was all the warning lights went out as normal and the pedal had a much better feel. So took it for a quick test drive (only 500m down my road) and now the brakes are 'half' way good again. I can even get the ABS to kick in (especially in reverse!). So now I've packed up until tomorrow when I will bleed the whole system again including the calipers (didn't do the four corners today). I'm not happy that the m/cyl has been reassembled with the old seals, but if this proves the point I'll know what not to order... hopefully. One thing I regret is not being familiar with the innards of this m/cyl prior to stripping it. If I had known how the proportioning sensor sits in a grove in the valve, I could have established if the valve was stuck off-centre. Thanks everyone for the help/tips and encouragement... it's all helping to keep me ploughing on.
Posted on: 2009/8/5 19:01
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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Quote:
No Matthew, this in the annoying thing, it's all self induced. The pedal and the brakes were generally fine before I got stuck into it. I was only changing the fluid because it was a horrible colour and looked like it hadn't been changed for years.
Posted on: 2009/8/5 5:16
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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Quote:
Sorry Andy, you mentioned this earlier, but no I haven't yet. I'll look for the fuse tomorrow and give it a try. Not sure if relavent, but I can't even get enough braking at the moment to activate the ABS!!!
Posted on: 2009/8/4 22:18
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Re: 84 z51 headlight |
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Good, hope it helps pappy.
The bushes are available at the usual outlets (pre-sizes and cheap). If you do get stuck, shout and I'll see if I have any rod left from when I followed the write... will stick in the post for you. Good luck.
Posted on: 2009/8/4 22:11
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Re: 84 z51 headlight |
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Excuse me sticking my nose in, theres a few write up's on the net about the subject, but this link has some good description and pics of that type motor/actuator:-
http://www.corvetteclub.org.uk/files/ ... ding_headlight_motors.pdf
Posted on: 2009/8/4 21:01
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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Next instalment... and I'm in desperate need of some help/advice please guys.
Right or wrong, I bled the m/cyl at those two connections on the m/cyl, including squirting fluid everywhere... no improvement! So the situation is, I have the Check Brake light on permanently, the DIC does it's normal start-up (turn the ignition on and it all lights up and then goes out), as soon as I fire the engine the ASR and ABS lights come back on the DIC and stay on. Brake pedal is rock hard, but if I press it whilst starting the engine it depresses slight (I always thought this to be an indication the the booster is working). On the road the pedal is still extremely hard and the brakes are nigh on non-existent. I can't even get them on hard enough to kick in the ABS (and I am standing on the pedal!). I've had a look through Andy's thread and the one it refers to on CF, but can't find a solution. CF at times is going back to needing this TechII in some posts. My best (which ain't good) guess, is either the booster is shot, but this seems to be a bit of a strange coincidence considering all I've done is bleed the system, or the proportioning valve in the m/cyl is seeing an imbalance and shuting off half the system, which the book seems to say it can do!? I'm stumped now and any parts have to come from the US to Euroland at exorbitant addition of shipping and a weeks delivery time, so I'd like to get it right if I need to order stuff. Any suggestions please?
Posted on: 2009/8/4 18:40
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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The saga continues guys.
Sorry in advance this is a long post, but I'm looking for inspiration, inebriation or just a bit of basic advice. After reading the book, the first conclusion I came to was the lights (dash 'Check Brakes and DIC Service ASR & ABS) are all switched by the master cylinder resovoir level sensor also I'd failed to 'prime' the master cyl. In a flurry of non-genius thought, I reckoned that going back and priming the master cyl would cure all my problems... wrong!!!. So back to the book to discover another process I missed (although from my reading, I shouldn't need to do it), but... 'bleed the master' cyl. So this is going to be my next step, but the book is confusing me a little, it say's:- Blah, blah, blah ...... disconnect the forward (blind end) brake pipe connection at the master cylinder. Then later goes on to say:- Blah, blah, blah ...... repeat steps and bleed the rear (cowl) connection. Now there is only two connections on the master cylinder and they are logically front & rear on the master cylinder (aspect of looking at the car) so I'd be happy thinking I know what the book is talking about, but... why is the book saying blind end and cowl and what does it mean???. It's making me wonder if I'm looking at the correct pipes!. Am I right in thinking that the book is saying bleed at the two connections on the master cylinder? Moving on in the process the book says to loosen these connections and press the pedal in the normal bleeding fashion until all the air is expelled. There no mention of using a bleed tube or anything (just loosen the connections), so does this mean that fluid is likely to squirt everywhere and how can you tell if the air is expelled if it just squirting out of a loose connection?. Will this be obvious with some kind of gurgling and f@rting? Sorry if this is really basic, but wanna do it right and the book ain't helping. Of course I'm gonna have rags etc handy, but I don't fancy brake fluid squirting all over the place, so anyone tell me what all this means in the real world. @ Andy. I was writing my message while you posted, so I'm now off to check your link.
Posted on: 2009/8/4 14:14
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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I think that's a good guess Brian.
I've just found it in the manual and apparently I should have bled that nipple in the cubby hole, before bleeding the calipers. Looks like I'll be redoing the job tomorrow. From peering around, it seems new brake pads will be coming up in a month or two, anyone have any recommendations on brand/type. I've noticed ECB (is that right?) and there seems to be red, blue, yellow, do those colours mean anything? Thanks guys.
Posted on: 2009/8/3 21:59
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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I'll try being a bit more forceful with it then.
Now ain't it great when a plan comes together......! I've just finished flushing and bleed the system and now the dash and DIC are lit up like a xmas tree!!!. Here's the scenario:- I syphoned off most of the old fluid from the master cylinder and removed the fluid container (not the entire mast cyl) to give it a good clean. Put it back together, refilled with new fluid (DOT 4) and flushed/bled all four corners. So far so good. Then I started the engine and the usual dash/DIC lights went through there cycle and then (without driving or pressing the brake pedal) the DIC Service ASR and Service ABS lights came on. Thought I'd try the ABS suggestion and went for a drive and and stamped on the brakes to activate the ABS. At this point the Check Brakes light also came on in the dash display. Went home, re-bled the system (no more air came out), started the engine and now all the lights (Check Brakes, Serv ASR, Serv ABS) are on all the time! When driving the brake pedal feels too hard (little give) and the brakes are useless. The servo 'seems' to be working in as much as the pedal goes down if you press on it and start the engine. I'm off to study the FSM, but anyone got any ideas/thoughts?
Posted on: 2009/8/3 19:03
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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Wow yes 3+k for the tool sent my pulse up a tad, your right can't justify that for my use.
The current fluid is *real* mucky and I don't want to contaminate the new stuff with left over residue if I can prevent it. I'll try the bleed-hairy brake-bleed method. Thanks for the advice guys. BTW: does anyone know how to get that vacuum valve (think thats what its called) off of the booster???
Posted on: 2009/8/3 13:36
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Re: How do you flush the ABS? |
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Sorry, you've lost me there bogus, which bit is the way to do it.
Do I need to bleed at the nipple on the ABS module, if so is it done first/last, engine running/off. Whats a Techll, something I need?
Posted on: 2009/8/3 10:40
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How do you flush the ABS? |
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I've decided to flush and change my brake fluid as the current stuff looks well past its best!
I have no problem with a normal flush/bleed, working from the furthest caliper from the master cylinder to the nearest I assume, but how do I ensure the ABS system gets flushed and doesn't retain some of the old fluid? Looking in the cubby hole behind the drivers seat, there appears to be a bleed nipple on the ABS module/pipework, do I need to flush at this point as well? I'm confused as to how the system can be properly flushed without the ABS solenoids being cycled (ie activated), any thoughts please. Also can anyone tell me how the vacuum valve is removed from the the brake booster. It seems like a push/pull fit, but I've tried gently levering it out and I'm getting nervous of using too much force in case I break something!
Posted on: 2009/8/3 9:54
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Re: Exhaust cut-outs. |
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Quote:
Bill, yes its just for sound, but I do need to keep it quiet at times. Its uphill to my home and late nights/early mornings would make me very unpopular otherwise Id go straight through from the cats too. Yep, the idea was to gut the innards of one stinger each side. Where the exhaust exiting under the car comes in is because I had one of the standard mufflers blow a small hole in the front, perhaps its me but the fumes in the cabin were terrible (eye watering) even when moving. I also dont really like the idea of additional heat under the car, I can already keep a Big-Mac cooking in the center consol! Quote:
I hadnt even thought of that Brian. Would it be a big issue with fuel mixture and timing etc?
Posted on: 2009/5/27 17:33
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Re: Exhaust cut-outs. |
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Well done RedGut86, you grasped it much better than I explained.
I see where your going with C6/Z06 muffler option with the devices already fitted. Ive never looked close at these mufflers but my first thought is they are really big and would be a heck of a job to install on a C4 (if at all possible!). Am I right in thinking the C6/Z06s mufflers automatically open the valves at a given rpm?. That link you posted to the electric butterfly valves is exactly what I was thinking of. The problem I see is these need to be installed forward of the muffler and without some kind of extra pipework would leave the exhaust gases coming out under the car which is not a good option. I think the ideal solution would be specially constructed mufflers with dual ins as well as dual outs, one half being muffled the other half straight through, but this would be another hack of a fabrication job. My thought was if I could possibly run another pipe from the loud side of the cut-out valve, around the outside of the mufflers to exit near the existing tips!. I dont even think that is practical. My latest idea is a pair of stinger type mufflers each side and gut the innards of two of them, but then Im losing the magnaflows. I dont really need any electronics, I think Id like to be able to just flip a switch. This is probably a project that will bite the dust, I cant see a solution.
Posted on: 2009/5/27 9:36
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Exhaust cut-outs. |
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Ive lost the advert/link for a gadget I need some advice on!!!. So does it make sense if I say- electric exhaust cut-out/port devices?, ie the things that are fitted on the Z06 exhaust to bypass the mufflers?
If anyone understands my drivel, Id like to fit these things to a C4 with a magnaflow cat-back. I want to retain the magnaflow mufflers (so I can come home late at night) and I guess its an easy enough job to fit these cut-outs forward of the mufflers. Problem is- I dont like the idea of having the exhaust gases pumping out under the car, so Im wondering if I could put extensions on the loud side of these cut-outs so that the gases exit somewhere near the normal exhaust tips. If anyone has a clue what Im talking about (I dont!), any advice/thoughts?. How could I make it not look horrible with a couple of spare tips?
Posted on: 2009/5/26 18:11
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Re: Looking for Kenwood fit. |
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Quote:
Yep, I could handle 2mm extra width, but 12mm on the height seems excessive. My ol'lady say's size doesn't matter in a consoling kind of way (cow!)  .I'm guessing that the width is more important (talking about the DIN size) as it's usually the constricting factor. I haven't got the original unit out yet, will know more when I do.
Posted on: 2009/5/17 21:56
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Your probably right CSS996 (about the combo, not your good taste). I was looking for subtle, but I guess that's a contradiction. Might have to dig the Photoshop out and see if I can experiment with colors.
Posted on: 2009/5/17 13:19
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Been following this with interest, are there any updates that I've missed?
Posted on: 2009/5/17 13:13
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Just found what looks like another new Corvette forum www.just-corvette.com
Dont know if another one is needed, but it looks different and all kudos to the guy, he's mentioning other forums (incl Corvette-Guru) in the first message.
Posted on: 2009/5/17 13:10
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Thanks for the info on the stripes/hash CSS996 and biggrizzly.
What would you think of the same colour or a burgandy on a torch red!? I kind of wonder if that would look nice a subtle, perhaps even with a dark gold pinstripe around the edge <thinks>. The again, why am I thinking 'subtle' on a Corvette! Would it be impolite to ask the cost biggrizzly (tell me to push off if it is). Any more info about those darker front lights... those I do like if I could get away with it with the Spainish police.
Posted on: 2009/5/12 16:49
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I was disappointed, I couldn't find the pics till I got to the end of the thread, but well worth it when I found them.
Agree with everyone else, great lock and great job on the fitting. Makes me wonder what colour would look good over a red C4. Being as Im not particularly Corvette knowledgeable, were those two side stripes once part of a racing team or particular model specific are they always one sided as well. Ive seen them before in pics, but never known why. I also like the tints on the front light units, are these stick-on, legal and do they affect light output much?
Posted on: 2009/5/12 10:03
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Theres never be a fudge factor with ISO standards (unless they specify a tolerance, which they dont for 7736), and 12mm (1/2 inch) difference between the ISO and Kenwoods stated width is a lot more than fudge.
As mentioned, I do think it can fit, but Im just one of these people that likes to find the surprises beforehand. Im sure if I put a minute scratch on the case and then found out it didnt fit, Kenwood will say sorry pal you cant have a refund, we advertised the size! Going to have to get my hands on a Kenwood unit, I guess.
Posted on: 2009/5/11 9:10
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I would say, logically, your right Durango_Boy. The problem is ISO-7736, which as I understand it is the standards for car audio DIN sizes, say single DIN 180mm W x 50mm H and double DIN 180mm W x 100mm H (no depth specified) which is all well and good until I read the spec's on Kenwood's site, which are 182 W x 112 H, so puff goes 'standards'!
I've also had a look a pics (trying to resolve this) of various makes/models of HU's and some have a smaller screen frame than the body dimensions, some a larger frame and others look to be the same size as the body. Another common option is an extra escutcheon around the frame (Kenwood for one) which, I guess, is an arbitary size according the the manufacturer. I do agree and think that the worst case scenario could be a bit of 'encouragement' to fit, but with the price of some of these units I don't think it's too much for the manufacturers to state complete fitting size/specs. End of the day I suppose I'll have to bite the bullet for a try & see!
Posted on: 2009/5/11 3:44
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Thanks guy's,
Mathew, yes it is a double DIN Nav. I must be missing the posts, I can find & search a post about an Alpine unit fit, also someone mentions a Kenwood s/ware update, can't find anything on how a Kenwood fit went though. I'd have thought it's a pretty important dimension and would be in the specs, but sadly no.
Posted on: 2009/5/10 15:23
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By any slim chance, does anyone have a Kenwood DNX7240BT head unit fitted.
I'm trying to find out the outside dimensions around the 'frame of the screen' (without the escutcheon). This is just to determine if I would need to modify the consul to fit one of these in a 93. Or anyone know where I can find the answer, Kenwood haven't responded to an e-mail
Posted on: 2009/5/10 10:19
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 I draw the line there Jim  West Ham
Posted on: 2009/5/8 0:03
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Thanks bastet44, nice website  @Jim, I don't mind Liverpool FC, but I'm a 'hammers' fan (do you know who they are without a Google?)
Posted on: 2009/5/7 23:17
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Great info.
I think it a long shot that anyone will come across any, but as its an international forum and perhaps for the sake of completeness, where the OP mentions the differences in components, it might be worth adding that there are also European and Japanese (perhaps others) tuner units/specs. This being due to different frequency stepping Don't know if thats worth adding.
Posted on: 2009/5/7 23:10
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Yea Jim, Nowdays it's really a must to nominate a driver. Depending on the levels (not very high) the law will take your license and impound the car "on-the-spot", argue about it/go to court later!. You can get the English beers here, but they don't emigrate too well, so I have to suffer Jack/Coke & Corinita, someone has to do it I suppose. We have all the darts fans as well, but it's pronounced "arra's" from my london roots. Hi and thanks CaptMike.
Posted on: 2009/5/7 18:06
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Thanks Matthew & Jim, there are some things I'd like to do to it now, but isn't there always!
Jim, Spain is LHD (drive on the right) most of the time :thumbright:, it becomes a free-for-all after the bars close!  :sad3:
Posted on: 2009/5/7 16:52
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Thanks for the welcome everyone. To answer the questions:- Originally from East end of London (cockney lad). Travelled (always driving/riding (hate boats & planes)) around much of Europe. Did a coast-to-coast (NY to Vancouver) on a Norton Commando and a North to South (NY to Keys) on a Harley, both in my youth (1980s). Still ride an old HD dyna-wide. Retired (early) and moved permanently to Spain 11 years ago. Living in the Alicante region, secluded and in the mountains (not the beach rat race). Sorry to say it, but wouldnt go back to the UK for love or money. Hobbies are saxophone (alto, tenor and electric), my German Shepherd Dogs and of course the vette and HD. My vette experience is really limited. Bought my first and only one a year ago, repaired a few minor odds and ends on it and then a couple of months ago I had to sell it (needed the cash for something else). As fate has it, the guy I sold it to was a bit of a plonker and on his third outing he managed to stuff the front under a road sign, by that time I had a bit more cash so I bought it back at a very good price. Had a new hood and headlight assy fitted and still made a profit between selling it to him and buying back again. As to other vettes in the area, Ive seen one yellow C4 convert and thats all. Heres a couple of pics, one with Mrs Fluff (whos under appraisal on a sale/return basis, but after 20 odd years shes probably a keeper). No mods to the car (or Mrs Fluff) except the 245/40/18 front 275/40/18 rear wheels/tyres, not sure of Mrs Fluffs rear dimensions, but it looks reasonable. Attach file:  guru.jpg (51.22 KB) guru2.jpg (81.11 KB) guru3.jpg (64.98 KB)
Posted on: 2009/5/7 13:42
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 Hello everyone, Just joined. C4 (93) owner. Brit now hailing from España. Looking around and seems a very nice atmosphere. Hope to join in. Fluff.
Posted on: 2009/5/6 19:04
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