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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work? |
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My Sliver Metallic car is not getting painted in my garage.....and it is all your fault!! You'll thank me later. :thumbright: I did my first full paint job in my very narrow one-car garage. I ended up painting and stripping the car four times before I was happy. My wife wasn't happy. I had plastic set up everywhere. Well, almost everywhere. the garage door had been open, with plastic over the opening. When I lowered the garage door, the formerly white door was approximately hot pink. 
Posted on: 2008/1/12 14:38
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RE:Why I do my own work........ |
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Good luck. I hope it works! I have no idea how much of a load the bolts will have to take; here's hoping it's not too much.
Posted on: 2008/1/12 4:11
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Food for thought -- the difference in thread pitch (threads per inch) is the critical item that determines what strength is left in the holes. The holes are definitely weaker by being re-threaded, but the amount the holes are weakened is a function of the difference in thread pitch between the two bolts and less to do with the 0.02 inch difference in diameter.
Think of it this way -- when the holes were originally tapped for 8 mm bolts, a certain amount of metal was removed. Now the holes are re-tapped for 5/16". More metal is removed, now from different parts of the hole wall. Not a good situation. You now put your 5/16" bolt into the hole and torque it. The threads are not supported completely -- if the holes have been weakened enough, the hole wall will fail before you reach the torque specification. That's probably the best thing to happen, as you will now have to bring the unit to a machine shop and have them repair the holes correctly. What is likely to happen is that the hole walls will support the torque spec, but will fail when the engine is under full load. Why? There are gaps where the original 8 mm bolt tap had already removed metal. The RTV, or threadlock or any other additive is not going to increase the ultimate strength of the bolt in the hole. All they do is to resist the bolt from turning. However, when the load is placed on the bolt, it is straight out of the hole, the additives have no affect. This is harder to explain than I thought, and I'd be happy to try again, but the bottom line is that I wouldn't trust your "fix".
Posted on: 2008/1/12 3:46
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RE:CONGRATULATIONS CASEY! |
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Cheers mate Case -- what I think Runner was trying to say is, most of us have never heard ladies referred to as "slims". Must be a local thing for Tommy T-bone; it sure isn't part of American vernacular! "Virginia Slims" is a brand of cigarette marketed here to women. Maybe that's the connection ...  Please tell us when you find out what issue your car will be in. I want to get a copy and I'm sure a lot of others do as well. You're a celebrity now! 
Posted on: 2008/1/12 1:44
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RE:Three Cheers for our Newest Member - pologreen! |
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You're welcome even if you do have the same color car as Bogus!
Posted on: 2008/1/12 1:09
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RE:I'm new here.... |
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Welcome!
Posted on: 2008/1/12 1:08
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work? |
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Another thing that I could never get a straight answer is.......if you look at a C4, it is really chopped up into sections. If you had a way of mixing the exact color over and over, would you really need a "Big Gun" to spray large areas??? The Clamshell is the only thing that bothers me it is a huge area...but the rest of the car is small touch up style areas with lots of breaks for masking off. If you are not changing colors and only restoring the paint, could you not paint section at a time??? You could probably get away with that if: 1) you were a really good painter and 2) the paint wasn't metallic.
Posted on: 2008/1/12 0:50
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From the Fuji HVLP Spray Gun Manufacturer Website |
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WHAT IS HVLP ? FACT & FICTION
To qualify under the term HVLP, air flowing through the Aircap must not exceed 10 psi. Generally speaking, HVLP turbine motors produce over 100 CFM (cubic feet per minute) at 3 - 8 psi. (pounds per square inch) depending on the model of motor. Compare this to a typical high pressure set-up where 45 - 60 psi at 8 CFM would be the norm. HVLP turbines supply air at a much lower velocity producing a softer, easier to control spray. This allows you to lay the paint on gently and not blast it on. Benefits of HVLP include less overspray and less paint wastage. Transfer efficiency can be as high as 85%. The quality of finish is identical to the best high pressure spray finishes. In some areas of the USA. (Southern California for instance) high pressure spray systems are prohibited in certain industries. All HVLP turbine systems, (by any maker) automatically comply with all known regulations in North America." [url]http://www.fujispray.com/what_is_hvlp.html[/url]
Posted on: 2008/1/11 22:58
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work? |
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How interesting. The HVLP gun needs a lot more than 8 cfm of air -- but it needs it at 10 psi (or less). My gun operates at approximately 6 psi. For compressors, ignoring all the losses you have in the pressure reducer, water separator and pipes, pressure times cfm is a constant. If you have a compressor that is rated at 8 cfm @ 90 psi, then that compressor can provide an output of 80 cfm at 9 psi. (8x90 = 80x9). Just like a high pressure gun, you need to look at both pressure and volume to determine what you need for a source. In short, a small compressor is totally inadequate for a production-size HVLP gun. Fisheye is normally caused by silicone contamination.
Posted on: 2008/1/11 22:54
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work? |
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What is an HVLP gun? HVLP stands for High Velocity Low Pressure, and it was a new technology about twenty years ago, forced by EPA emissions requirements. The essential benefit of HVLP over High Pressure is overspray. High Pressure guns typically result in about 20% of the paint going on the object being painted and about 80% becoming overspray. With HVLP, the numbers are just about reversed -- there is typically less than 20% overspray -- I forget the requirement but it's quite low -- which means over 80% goes on the object to be sprayed. Thus, lower pollution by a lot. Air source. If you use a compressor, you are pressurizing air to around 100 psi, then reducing it down to about 30-40 psi for a High Pressure gun and to below 10 psi for an HVLP gun. As the air is initially compressed, it heats up. It then gives up some of its heat as it sits in the tank and hoses. When you use the air for your spray gun, you reduce the pressure; thus, the air gets colder -- quite a bit colder than when it started in the first place. Thus, the moisture in the air comes out as water droplets. You need to have a really good moisture trap to get rid of the water. Otherwise it will ruin a perfectly good paint job. Just ask anyone -- like me -- who was bit by that problem. It's really frustrating. With a turbine compressor as a source, you only compress the air -- typically to about 5 - 7 psi. Thus the "Low Pressure" part of HVLP. It makes up for the low pressure by using high volumes of air. A turbine compressor is ideal for that type of air source. You never store the air, so it doesn't have much opportunity to cool down before you use it so there isn't much of a moisture problem. There really isn't a turbine gun, just a turbine compressor.
Posted on: 2008/1/11 20:16
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work? |
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... in the shop I'm going to build. Now I'm jealous! Back to CentralCoaster -- another thing about HVLP guns. If you use them with compressed air, you still need to be concerned about moisture in the air supply. If you go with a turbine, moisture is normally not a problem.
Posted on: 2008/1/11 19:06
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RE:Best way to flush coolant system? |
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... I'd like to point out that only CC has even mentioned using Deionized water when refilling. ...
Posted on: 2008/1/11 17:27
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work? |
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You should be worried about using "an old fan". It's an explosion hazard! If you do use an old fan, don't suck the fumes out with it. That brings the explosive vapors through the unprotected motor. Instead, blow the fumes out. It's not as effective, but at least it's less likely to go boom! 
Posted on: 2008/1/11 16:48
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RE:Anyone else here military? |
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USN a long time ago -- nuclear submarines.
Posted on: 2008/1/11 3:21
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RE:Paint/autobody: Anybody here do their own work? |
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Your air supply is low for a high pressure production gun, but what you are talking about doing, at least initially, is going to want a touch-up gun whose air requirements are a lot less -- your compressor should be fine, but look at the specifications on the air gun you want to purchase to be sure.
I switched to HVLP, and the gun has its own three-stage turbine. My compressor is now used primarily for air tools and inflating the tires.
Posted on: 2008/1/11 2:44
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RE:[LT1] Anyone replace their motor mounts lately? |
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When I bought my u-joints last week at NAPA, I asked him where they were made. "Japan", he said. It's a sad commentary -- I buy American when I can, but have vowed NEVER to use Chinese parts on my car!
Posted on: 2008/1/11 2:39
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RE:Best way to flush coolant system? |
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Electric is more ideal because it can turn a constant speed. Not sure constant speed is the "ideal" solution. What I'd want is a coolant pump that would pump just as much water as needed to effectively cool the motor and no more -- and no less. That would be ideal.
Posted on: 2008/1/11 2:32
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Favorite Military Vehicle |
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I'm a fan of the
  About as stealthy as you can get and faster than h...!
Posted on: 2008/1/11 2:25
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RE:Conspiracy theorists inside... |
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I am being held prisoner against my will inside Andy's garage. He said if I stay on good behavior he'll let me out for an hour. But if I go beyond the property line, this neck implant will send 10,000 volts to my spinal cord. Speaking of conspiracy, he told me it was 50,000 volts and the target is lower on your body ...
Posted on: 2008/1/11 2:20
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RE:The Beast Is Almost Done (Photos) |
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HAD to look at those pictures again. What a work of art -- simply gorgeous!
Posted on: 2008/1/9 13:38
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RE:Bleeding brakes |
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Being that your vehicle is a 94, and the thread starter has a 96, so you should read in the Factory service manual and follow the procedures dictated by the said manual (section 5 book 1 for your 94) in order to be sure the ABS module is correctly flushed and bled.
Posted on: 2008/1/9 13:36
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RE:did i read only 84 n 85 |
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Amen, I used to own an '84. Rode like a cement truck -- but it sure could motivate around corners on smooth roads! :toothy5:
Posted on: 2008/1/9 3:43
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RE:Pics of my new steam cleaner |
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That's a shame. Hope nothing else shows up.
Posted on: 2008/1/9 3:38
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Favorite Tool |
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I recently purchased a Terralux 60 cordless LED work light. I'm really happy I got rid of that damn cord. Always in the way, or routed around the car the wrong way, or ... you name it. It's not as bright as my florescent, but makes up for it in being very user-friendly.
Posted on: 2008/1/9 3:24
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RE:Bleeding brakes |
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Id say they would be fitted with a water trap too. Case, I can't argue with any of what you've said, mate. Water is the bane of brake systems. I'm driven to do all maintenance and repairs on my car for two reasons. First, I enjoy the hell out of working on my cars. Well, most of the time! :toothy5: Second, I've had "professional" mechanics -- from the "best" shops do really lousy work, or unnecessary work, or both. For something as important as flushing the brake system, I'd rather do it myself. That way, I know it'll be done right.
Posted on: 2008/1/9 2:52
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RE:Bleeding brakes |
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Most of the pressure bleeders in my price range use a garden sprayer type of unit to produce pressure, so they would suffer from the same problem. I just need to make sure I do it during the winter on a day when the relative humidity in my garage is about 4%!
Posted on: 2008/1/9 2:11
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RE:went for a drive today |
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Down here, summer sucks. Yeah, but you don't have to shovel anything!
Posted on: 2008/1/9 1:45
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RE:Bleeding brakes |
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Replacing the brake fluid is on my to-do list as well. I'd bet that the brake fluid in my '94 is original.
Here's an interesting link for a make-it-yourself pressure bleeder: http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm Since I already have a spare garden sprayer (never used!), this should cost next to nothing?
Posted on: 2008/1/9 1:30
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RE:went for a drive today |
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Please do not even mention ICE. :me2:
Posted on: 2008/1/9 1:16
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Cap and Spider |
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Here is a picture of one cap -- with hunks missing -- and the spider. I didn't know that the bearing surfaces on spiders were tapered.
 <-- That's me hitting me. Think I'll be a litle more careful from now on! The moral of this story is don't ignore the small noise; it might just be able to take a big bite. As you have all noted, I was really lucky. 
Posted on: 2008/1/9 1:00
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"Well Gollee" -- Gomer Pyle, USMC |
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Just came in from the garage. My life is still passing in front of my eyes.
I finally got the half-shaft out of the Corvette in preparation for installing new u-joints. I knew the car had a slight clunk before I agreed to purchase it. When I arrived in Pensacola to pick it up, I discovered, as the owner had told me, the noise wasn't especially loud. No problem said I. I pulled out one of the two u-joints and discovered there were no needle bearings left! What remained was just the cap and the spider -- with a whole lot of space left in between. I have no idea why that thing didn't let go on my 900 mile trip back home, but I'm now a more religious person! I sure am glad I decided to tackle this job first.
Posted on: 2008/1/8 17:27
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RE:Floor Mats |
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They were always standard - and they do hold up pretty well: my original set on my 1985 is still presentable enough for judging, though I have another set for driving around. Didn't know that. My car came with mats that match the carpeting pretty well. They don't have a logo on them. How can I tell if they are original equipment or replacements? Mine 'vert's a '94. If the mats are original, I will replace them with aftermarket for driving around like you do, and save them for judging as well.
Posted on: 2008/1/7 23:37
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RE:Pontiac Soltice with 500 HP LS7 |
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Bogus just isn't a 'vert guy ... Great! That means more 'verts for me!
Posted on: 2008/1/7 23:10
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RE:Pontiac Soltice with 500 HP LS7 |
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Quote: Bogus, I thought you were tougher than that! Especially if it has a lot of HP!
Posted on: 2008/1/7 13:23
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Floor Mats |
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Were floor mats ever standard or optional on C4s?
Posted on: 2008/1/7 4:00
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RE:Pontiac Soltice with 500 HP LS7 |
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whew... bad ass... but I don't fit... At least with the top up I don't fit. Why would you ever put the top up?
Posted on: 2008/1/7 1:06
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RE:Because I don't have a life... |
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Can one be a post-whore even if it's their own forum? Wouldn't that make Bogus a point-madam?
Posted on: 2008/1/6 1:43
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RE:Aluminum cleaning |
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Wish you hadn't posted those pictures. Now I have something else to add to my work list.
That looks better than new!!!!
Posted on: 2008/1/5 3:58
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RE:Hey gang! Let's update our locations! |
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Done, and since there are at least two of us from North Carolina, we can have a Guru Gathering right here, y'all.
Posted on: 2008/1/5 3:36
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RE:ROLL CALL !!! |
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Posted on: 2008/1/4 22:39
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RE:Cars We Drove |
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I grew up during OPEC... sucks to be me... So is the C3 and it's not THAT old. :-)
Posted on: 2008/1/4 3:04
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RE:Most effective / efficient way to heat the small garage |
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Quote:
whatever happened to kerosene heaters? I used a kerosene heater long before I purchased the forced-air propane heater. My kerosene heater ( a Kerosun) was 25,000 btu/hour and the propane heater is 30,000 btu/hour so they are pretty close in capability. The downsides of the kerosene heater, imho, are: 1) I would need to stock kerosene. Since I already have propane for my gas grill, it gave me a good excuse to have a second 20 lb propane tank, and 2) Since the kerosene heater I had did not have a blower, it heated the garage unevenly. It would be really hot near the heater and cold on the other side of the car. I know there are kerosene heaters with blowers but they aren't very common. With that said, I was a happy user of the kerosene heater for about 20 years up in Connecticut and would still be using it except that I moved. It was easier to sell the heater then move it myself. The movers wouldn't touch it. Now that I have used both, I recommend the propane heater with a blower.
Posted on: 2008/1/4 2:59
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Cars We Drove |
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Has everyone seen this yet:
http://cruzintheavenue.com/CarsWeDrove.htm Since I grew up in the 50s/60s, this really hits close to home.
Posted on: 2008/1/4 2:47
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Made in China? |
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Senior Guru
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2007/12/11 0:00 From Raleigh, NC
Posts:
274
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I've run into the Handyman club through my other hobby, furniture-making. They are considered something just short of a scam. I wouldn't touch anything they sell with a ten-foot pole.
Posted on: 2008/1/4 2:26
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RE:Most effective / efficient way to heat the small garage |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/11 0:00 From Raleigh, NC
Posts:
274
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Quote:
The best thing I ever bought was a torpedo Proane Heater. Not sure onthe BTU, but it heats fast. I use my outdorr grill tank on it. PLus around here, Home Depot has a 24 hour tank exchange. $16.80 right now for a full tank. Can't beat it. Doesn't take long at all to heat..especially in your small garage. :me2: I purchased a Reddy forced air propane heater (see http://www.masterdist.net/reddyheater ... cedair/propane/rlp30.html) for about $100 from Home Depot. It's 30,000 BTUs per hour and does a very nice job of heating up my garage, which has an uninsulated 16' steel door to let in the cold.
Posted on: 2008/1/4 2:08
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RE:Fog? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/11 0:00 From Raleigh, NC
Posts:
274
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I don't care if he beats me I just want to make him sweat!!!! Yeah right. Tell us another one!:toothy8: Nice times without nitrous. What do you anticipate when you turn your nitrous on? Should be pretty close to 10.5 -- or maybe lower?
Posted on: 2008/1/4 1:20
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RE:Fog? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/11 0:00 From Raleigh, NC
Posts:
274
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So ... you gonna tell us, or leave us in a nitrous high?
And I finally clicked on your picture and discovered the video behind it. How about showing us MORE! Looks like one mean beast.
Posted on: 2008/1/3 12:03
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Re: 94 C4 Fuse Box Location? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/11 0:00 From Raleigh, NC
Posts:
274
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... and the full answer is "RTFM." Only if you want to make this a less than desirable forum.
Posted on: 2008/1/2 22:32
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RE:94 C4 Fuse Box Location? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/11 0:00 From Raleigh, NC
Posts:
274
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Quote:
Sorry, I wasn't aware the same fuses were in two different places. Is anything ever simple on this car? :shaking:
Posted on: 2008/1/2 21:11
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Re: 94 C4 Fuse Box Location? |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/12/11 0:00 From Raleigh, NC
Posts:
274
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Quote: Let me see -- under the hood are the fuses for interior lights, exterior lights, rear defogger, power door locks, hatch, LIGHTER, seats ... I think it's best to give the full answer, don't you?
Posted on: 2008/1/2 19:28
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