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Print in friendly format Send this term to a friend  Windows in the C4
Both should move up and down, quietly and reasonably fast.

If a window does not work, this most likely means a bad motor, but check the fuse pane...
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   All Posts (Qack)


(1) 2 3 4 ... 6 »


Re: Half Shaft replacement U-joints
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As a minimum, make sure they weren't made in China. Their metallurgy is highly suspect. Near as I can tell, you can't go wrong if they are made in the good old US of A.

Posted on: 2009/2/2 22:32
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Re: You Pick 2
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Quote:

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

Danspeed1 wrote:
Hello,

I am adding gauges to my vehicle. Assuming the vehicle comes with a fuel gauge, and a coolant temp gauge (and nothing else) what else would you add given the opportunity. I have 3 slots available. One spot is already spoken for; I will be fitting it with an oil pressure gauge. You pick two (not wide-band A/f gauge)...

Dan


Depends on what the vehicle is used for.

I like to know:

Rpm
Volts
MPH
Coolant temp
Oil pressure
Oil temp
Vac/Boost
EGT
AFR

-- Joe


I also want transmission temperature. How about making one gauge a multipurpose gauge. Or maybe add a ScanGauge II somewhere else.

Posted on: 2009/1/23 13:43
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Re: It was the U-joints after all!
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Quote:

movnviolation wrote:

He showed me where just a few were doing all the work!


Wow. Learn something new every day.

Posted on: 2009/1/11 13:41
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Re: It was the U-joints after all!
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what was the condition of all of the needle bearings? Were only a few flattened, or were they all flattened? If only a few, that lends credence to the "zero degrees is bad" school. If they were all flattened, that lends credence to the "zero is good" school.

Posted on: 2009/1/10 12:13
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Re: It was the U-joints after all!
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Sounds like a CYA explanation. The less the angle, the less the stress on the u-joint. Straighter is better. I'd be concerned that the yokes on the drive shaft aren't straight to begin with.

You need to ask him why his "explanation" is true. Inquiring minds want to know ...

Posted on: 2009/1/9 1:58
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Re: Synthetic Brake Fluid
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For sure you can mix Valvoline ... Their website states "Compatible with all braking systems requiring a DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid" and "Mixes well with conventional fluids".

I had converted one of my cars (an MG-TF) to DOT 5 because it sat a lot and silicone doesn't absorb water. However, I now use DOT 3/4 in my cars and change the brake fluid at regular intervals.

Here's a great primer for brake fluids:

http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/fluid.shtml

Posted on: 2009/1/5 21:35
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Re: Heater Core?
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
a wiff of coolant isn't always a problem with the core.

There is a chance, but the real tell is if the floor is wet.

I would be 100% sure before tearing into that project... trust me...

Also, I really doubt the waterpump will effect the heater. There is a check valve on the inlet that controls volume and flow rate.


It's not really a check valve, it's an orifice, but it controls the volume of coolant that goes to the heater core.

Posted on: 2008/12/30 17:04
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Re: Should I continue to use the Battery Tender?
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Having stored many, many batteries for my various boats over many years, my experience with a battery tender is not so good. You might want to pick up an "intelligent" or three stage battery charger as a replacement. It will do a lot better job maintaining the battery.

I have a Guest model 2612, which is a three-stage charger and has the additional advantage of being waterproof. It has paid for itself many times over maintaining my batteries.

Posted on: 2008/12/27 22:34
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Re: Catalytics HURT emissions?
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Quote:

Josh wrote:
The idea of a cat adding anything to the exhaust (adding Co2 as he states) is not correct. A converter can not add anything to the exhaust.


The converter converts CO to CO2, so it really does increase the amount of C02.

Posted on: 2008/12/27 17:12
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Re: Four Stock Brake Rotors, and 2 Headlights
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I'm interested. Just sent a PM.

Qack

Posted on: 2008/12/26 22:46
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Re: Balancing (please step inside)
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I guess I have to take exception to David Vizard's comments concerning balancing and wear. An unbalanced engine will incur higher internal forces than a balanced one -- as evidenced by the shaking everyone who has driven both can attest to - unless it's in my mind! These forces will create additional wear -- and if the unbalanced forces are enough, they will tear the engine apart. That said, most products that you put in your engine are close enough that your engine will be "just fine" if you drive it gently. If you beat on it, it will get beat.

Posted on: 2008/12/26 22:44
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Re: Wiper blade adjustment?
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I copied this tidbit from somewhere on the internet a while ago thinking it might be useful. Hope it helps.

"from Jerry Watts, retired Engineer at the GM Corvette Action Center in Bowling Green, KY:

If you drive your Vettes in the rain, you may noticed that the wipers need an ajustment. This problem can be fixed with a ratchet, a 10mm socket, and a small screwdriver.

At the bottom edge of the windshield, driver's side, is a black screen with a small pop-off screen about 1" x 2.5" towards the inside edge. Find its two solid black spots and gently push in and up with the screwdriver to remove it.

On each wiper arm you will see two 10mm nuts. To make the adjustment, dampen the windshield and turn the wipers on just long enough to get them to where you can move them up or down, then loosen the nuts with the 10mm socket. On the driver's side, the wiper should come up to, but not into, the blackout area along the windshield's edge, on the passenger side, about two inches from the molding and below hood level in the rest position."

Posted on: 2008/12/23 0:23
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Re: Perhaps I was wrong....40HP? For you Tony!
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One thought -- IMHO a CNC-machined head is really only as good as a really good artist doing the work manually. There's no magic in CNC and, because of the mathematical curve-fitting functions involved, it is likely may not be as good as a top-notch artist.

Posted on: 2008/12/22 17:51
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Re: Roll bars in vettes!
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How about really stiff shocks?

Posted on: 2008/12/12 0:50
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Re: Dynamic Compression Ratio Questions.....
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Quote:

BrianCunningham wrote:
Quote:

cuisinartvette wrote:
Dood. I got an idea.

Crawl in the tire and have someone roll you out of the back of your truck at 70 mph or so. If it grabs ruts youll know before you mount it on the wheel.
Pics please.


???


Wrong thread. You want

http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... t_id=63994#forumpost63994

Posted on: 2008/12/11 18:14
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Re: can you tell me which would be a better motor?
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Better for what?

Posted on: 2008/12/8 23:12
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Re: Before and after changes..... per the sim.
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Neat! Thanks for the info!!!

Qack

Posted on: 2008/11/26 4:14
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Re: Before and after changes..... per the sim.
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Can you show a plain vanilla '94 'vertte with an automatic comparing the 2.59 vs the 3.07 rear axle ratio?

thanks in advance,

Qack

Posted on: 2008/11/26 1:53
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Re: Low coolant temps and no heat
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With 160 thermostat and a higher efficiency radiator, you may not get higher than 180 on a hot day if they are operating correctly. You might want to put your 180 thermostat back in for the winter.

When are you fans programmed to come on?

Posted on: 2008/11/25 23:02
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Re: 86 Corvette Digital dash fixed
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Hey Flashman, how much work is it to replace the rack? I've been contemplating rebuilding my steering system as well ...

Posted on: 2008/11/17 21:43
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Re: 4/3 gear clash
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I'd be worried about the synchro going since the grinding is limited to one gear.

Posted on: 2008/11/14 15:46
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Re: Oil / Oil pressure
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Just a few thoughts:

Do you know the viscosity rating of your break-in oil?

What is your oil pressure at idle when the oil is warmed up? What is your oil temperature? I'd be as concerned about oil pressure at idle than at speed.

Are you using a defective or aftermarket oil filter with too high a relief pressure setting? That might might cause the pegged reading on startup.

Can you get an independent measure of your oil pressure? Your sender might be bad.

For your replacement oil, how about 5W-20 rather than 0W-30 ... I'd rather have the hot viscosity lower rather than the cold viscosity to reduce the oil pressure.

Posted on: 2008/11/11 18:53
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6-speed Manual Transmission For Sale on Craig's List
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Found this on the Raleigh Craig's List and thought someone might be interested. It sounds like a good price ...

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/898170072.html

Disclaimer: I know nothing about this person nor the transmission, and have no connection to him/it, so it you have a question, give the seller a call.

Qack

Posted on: 2008/10/31 0:36
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Re: can i paint my factory 84 rims
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They can be repainted black or silver -- or clear-coated as they were originally. You might want to have someone powder-coat them as that will be more durable than almost anything you can paint them with, although a two-part epoxy would do well.

As far as painting them yourself, you do not need to rough them up. However, you do need to clean them several times to remove any contamination, especially wax and silicone ... both will prevent the paint from adhering. After you clean them, use a solvent to remove any remaining original clear coat. Then you can use a file or stone to work over any gouges or curb rash, then prime them with a two-part etching primer, followed by the paint. They can be done with a brush, but use a slow-drying thinner so the paint flows well and gives you a smooth finish.

If you are going to clear coat them, you wouldn't prime them first.

Posted on: 2008/10/23 3:09
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Re: Sometimes, it's the basics
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Quote:
Sometimes it's the basics ...


Thanks for sharing your story ... we've all been there, and empathize.

Posted on: 2008/10/21 13:36
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Re: Jeb Burnett of Deep Freeze Cryo screwed me over pretty bad
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
just because they are an LLC does not mean you can't sue the business entity.

The nature of their incorporation is a tax issue, not a liabilty issue.


Unfortunately, unless Josh can pursue it in small claims court, his lawyer will likely cost more than you're trying to recover. It's a catch 22. Been there; it sucks.

Posted on: 2008/10/18 19:09
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Re: '94 paint?
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Stumbled across this today -- Top 11 Secrets of Auto Detailers-- and thought I'd post it in case anyone cares ...

Posted on: 2008/10/17 13:58
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Re: buying a new computer. Vista Question?
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I use both extensively and, although I prefer XP, it wouldn't be worth $99 to have it.

Posted on: 2008/10/17 13:50
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Re: Won't start when it rains (and I'm in England)
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If I read your e-mail correctly, sounds like it runs fine when it's dry outside but runs like a donkey engine when it's wet. That sounds as much like spark-plug wires as it does the Opti.

Posted on: 2008/10/7 13:11
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Re: '94 paint?
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Quote:

Notorious wrote:
My polo isn't splotchy, it's just beat all to shit. Past wet sanding, rubbing out, buffing, waxing and polishing. It'd been rode hard and put away wet before I got it and I ain't done it no favors since. F'k it, it's just a machine....


Well, that was useful ... NOT. Some people take pride in how their ride looks. Hopefully, Flashman will pipe in with some great information.

Are your paint problems in the clearcoat only or do they affect the base coat? You can only wet sand once or, if you're lucky twice, before you start to sand through the paint and cause even worse problems. Sounds like you've done it twice already. I'd avoid doing it the third time.

Posted on: 2008/10/4 23:03
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Re: how do you reset this
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Or turn the ignition key to on -- after you disconnect the battey.

Posted on: 2008/9/20 21:12
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Re: 1996 Battery goes dead overnight. Help!
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Also, it's not unheard of for a new battery to be bad, so get that checked as well.

Posted on: 2008/9/19 2:33
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Re: Cooling issue and lean condition concerns
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Attached is a graph of the data, with extrapolation below 2000 rpm and above 5000 rpm.

The data from 2000 - 5000 is absolutely linear and extrapolates to zero -- indicating that there are no losses over that RPM range related to RPM.

My guess is that the water pump does not lose efficiency above 5000 -- it would take a lot more than 7000 rpm for the thing to cavitate and lose efficiency, but don't have the characteristics available to determine that.

By the way, the higher values are:

RPM GPM
6000 - 88.8
7000 - 103.7

Attach file:



jpg  water pump flow - from edelbrock.jpg (0.00 KB)


Posted on: 2008/9/18 21:23
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Re: plug wires
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I discovered the "climb over the motor" technique with them as well, although I still wouldn't classify that approach as easy -- still a bitch!

Posted on: 2008/9/16 21:16
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Re: plug wires
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Yes -- and have tons of fun with #8.

Posted on: 2008/9/16 18:44
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Re: Upgrade my headlights
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
I have the Hella conversion. I highly recommend it.


Are you running the 100 watt high beam bulb? I'd worry about that as the wires are sized for 55 watt high beam. I see melted wires in your future.

I do have the lightweight plastic headlights on my car -- and I highly recommend them as well.

Posted on: 2008/9/16 12:06
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Re: Bought a rear
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
That's what I'm looking for...some more grunt. Not too concerned about the gas mileage, it's my toy.

Matthew


I doubt you'll be disappointed. My '94 A4 has the 3.07. I have averaged 19.6 over the last five tankfulls driving around town (if you can believe the computer) and get over 29 on the highway -- that's at 71 mph, all interstate, top up, 2,200 rpm.

Hey! I heard that. I have to drive that slow most of the time; I'm driving a ticket-me red Corvette !!!

Posted on: 2008/9/12 17:09
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Re: Bought a rear
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Quote:

95vette wrote:
My 3.07 goes in this Saturday, then back to the strip. Then the Meziere next, and back to the strip again, of course.


Hey, make sure you inform us of the changes you get at the strip. Mine came with a 3.07 and I've not driven a stock LT1; I'd really like someone to finally quantify the performance difference. I've looked high and low (on the internet) and couldn't find anything!

Posted on: 2008/9/12 17:01
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Re: Bought a rear
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Quote:

joeld wrote:
That's what I have in my 89 and I do like it. Much more low end punch, expect around 600 RPM increase at cruise.

Joel


??? More like 300, unless you cruise at 120 mph.

Posted on: 2008/9/11 23:49
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Re: Crack Spread......
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BOHICA!

Posted on: 2008/9/11 15:47
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Re: 1993 fuel and ignition problems
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Just a thought -- if you have a hole in your exhaust before the O2 sensor, it's possible for the flowing exhaust gasses to suck air into the exhaust stream. That will make your O2 sensor register high oxygen. Your computer will read that as too lean and add more fuel. This would cause your fuel consumption to plummet and cause no codes. Since you did exhaust work ...

Posted on: 2008/9/10 23:47
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Re: Can I check TPS with standard probes from my DVOM?
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I like the Actron because it cost me $94 new, including shipping -- I hit Amazon.com at the right time. And because it is a solid unit. And most of all, because I hooked it up to my '94 LT1 and it worked the first time!

Besides all of the error codes, it reads the following info on the '94, which gives me plenty of things to play around with.

There are plenty of scanners that do a lot more -- but they are a lot more expensive as well.

Group 1
ITEM Range of Values
Air Pump ON/OFF
AC Clutch ON/OFF
AC Request ON/OFF
BARO (V)
Battery (V)
LT Fuel Trim ON/OFF
LT Fuel Trim CL
LT Fuel Trim L Nominal 128
LT Fuel Trim R Nominal 128
CC ON/OFF SW ON/OFF
EVAP Duty (%) 0-100
Coolant (°F)
CYL ID
EGR Duty (%) 0-100
FC1 Relay ON/OFF
FC2 Relay ON/OFF
IAC Position
Idle REQ RPM
INJ L PW (mV)
INJ R PW (mV)
ST Fuel Trim L
ST Fuel Trim R
Knock RET (°)
Knock Sensor
Loop Status OPEN/CLOSED
MAF (gr/sec)
MAP ("HG)
IAT (°F)
O2S Left (mV)
O2S Right (mV)
Oil Temp (°F)
PNP Switch P/N
PRNDL Switch P/N
Run Time
Shift Sol A ON/OFF
Shift Sol B ON/OFF
Spark Adv
TCC Brake Sw
TCC Control
ICC Solenoid ON/OFF
Throttle (%) 0-100
TPS Sensor (V)
Veh Speed (MPH)


Group 2

ITEM Range of Values

Engine RPM
PROM ID
TCC Control
TCC Duty Cycle (%) 0-100
TCC Slip ON/OFF
Trans TMP (°F)
VEH Speed (MPH)

Posted on: 2008/9/10 1:02
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Re: IT'S IN!!!! IT'S IN!!!!
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Nice

When does it hit the dyno? We GOTTA know!!!

Posted on: 2008/9/10 0:49
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Re: Can I check TPS with standard probes from my DVOM?
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I was going to suggest you use a scanner to read throttle position -- guess I still will. You can read it with the ignition turned on but without starting the engine. I use an Actron CP9145 -- which worked great right out of the box and gives you a bunch of useful real-time info.

I'm pretty sure that the Tech 1 is GM's version of a scanner. It's used to read the throttle angle percentage.

Where in the FSM did you read that it was needed so the EBTCM can re-learn the throttle position? I can't find it in mine - also a '94. I'm on page 5E2-139.

Posted on: 2008/9/9 13:45
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Re: Which fuse to pull to disable AC?
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If there's no charge in the system, the pressure sensor should prevent the clutch from engaging. However, disabling the clutch is still a good idea.

Posted on: 2008/9/9 3:39
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Re: tranny cooler
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My first response is that powder coating interferes with heat transfer. I'd look for one that was not coated.

Posted on: 2008/9/7 19:34
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Re: Brake Rotors
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Doesn't look flowery to me ... looks nuclear

Posted on: 2008/9/6 16:51
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Re: Heres a little bit of an update
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Who's doing the work?

Posted on: 2008/9/5 17:32
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Re: Injectors fireing when motor stalls
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Just a few thoughts: Throttle position sensor bad? Coolant temperature sensor bad? I have personally had both of these problems and the ECM wants to give the engine so much gas it either will not start, or when started it runs very rough.

Posted on: 2008/9/3 18:09
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Re: Britney back in shape?
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Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
Yup.

If anyone wants to give me $10K they can spy on me and take photos of me in my underwear.


You're more likely to get some money for NOT showing up in your underwear!!!

Posted on: 2008/9/3 3:09
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