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Print in friendly format Send this term to a friend  D44
This references the rear differential.

The D36 was the smaller unit. Used on all 1984 Corvettes, and all automatic Corvettes after that.

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   All Posts (LD85)


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Re: MSD 6AL mount spot
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
ah, yea... space... not much under the dash of a 92... that's why I am moving it into the glove box... and removing the lid so I can see the little LED flash at me when doing diags! I may do a clear lid... but inside a sealed glovebox, inside a car... should be pretty dry.

I may even add a fan on the lid... a cute little 1.5" muffin fan.


I have always wanted to use a small low voltage fan for cooling, that's a good idea

Posted on: 2012/11/21 20:01
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Re: MSD 6AL mount spot
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bogus wrote:
how sensitive to heat are they?

I have the LTCC kit (converts LT1 optispark to LS1 style coil per plug). That brain is rather sensitive to heat. With the engine out, I am going to move the brain inside the glove box. Drill some holes in the firewall, run the harness in, RTV seal it at the firewall and be done. I hope it works and doesn't take 10 hours to fabricate!


I would have put it under my dash but teh FAST and wiring leaves no room for mounting it there.

Posted on: 2012/11/21 18:25
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Re: MSD 6AL mount spot
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I have had it in that same spot but 90 degrees rotated from where it is, for @ 5-6 years so I don't think it gets hot there at all.

Posted on: 2012/11/21 16:38
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MSD 6AL mount spot
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I had to move the 6AL because I bought a new one and the new 6AL has a removable plug on it, so I used the same bracket I had and added a plate to it, just thought i would post a pic for future idea seekers. Nothng highly accurate or fancy, but it clears the hood and works fine.

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Posted on: 2012/11/21 13:31
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Re: Gas Pedal Mount
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I have had a long bolt and lock nut on the current sheet metal fabbed bracket a buddy made for me really quick for the past 3 years,

I'll post pics of it when I take it out, but the pic that CC has of the Shoulder bolt would work great and our local hardware store has bronze flange bushings that you can press into the hole after it is enlarged and then you can use a file to make the bushing thinner. It's really not a big deal

Posted on: 2012/11/21 13:23
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Re: Gas Pedal Mount
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
The problem I see with a bushing is the pedal arm is a rather thin piece of metal.


Mere childs play for Super FAB, a mild mannered sales engineer by day, and a long distance silent sniper at night, but on weekends,,, he becomes, Super FAB! fabricator of the impossible, and all around dream weaver:-)

Posted on: 2012/11/21 3:36
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Re: Gas Pedal Mount
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I will mount mine this weekend, gonna take off Friday and put the car back together.

I have ZERO doubt that it will work fine, our hardware store sells bronze bushings so I can put them into the pedal body if necessary.

Posted on: 2012/11/20 14:17
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Re: howe hydraulic bearing
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I'm pulling for you dude! the hydraulic TOB feel is amazing, and you will never want to go back to a slave style

Posted on: 2012/11/18 1:13
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Re: howe hydraulic bearing
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I spoke with Red way back and I think they stopped selling the bolt on TOB

In "theory" the stroke of your clutch pedal can only displace X volume of fluid, which will fill the TOB and move the piston forward and disengage the clutch.

I used a clutch pedal stroke adjuster that I made and still have, to limit the pedal stroke, but if I depressed the pedal half way, then let up 1/4 of the way, and re-pressed the pedal, the piston would pop off. I also bought a Wilwood Master cylinder and made a Firewall spacer to make the Wilwood work

After driving the car for months it became too much of a nuisance, I had bought two Howe TOB's, and one RAM "turnkey" kit, that did not work, and one McLeod bolt on TOB which was for the ZF, the McLeod for the ZF would not work due to bell housing thickness variances, all in all I made Bell Housing shims, and then bought longer BH dowels and it went on and on

If you have a TKO and you can buy a slip on with a built in stroke limiter, then I would love to see it work, I am positive it can me made to work, one way or another.

Posted on: 2012/11/15 2:16
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Re: howe hydraulic bearing
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Unless you can stop the piston from popping off, I don't recommend it, the Slip On TOB that is,,, , the McLeod version is the best because it has an internal limiter.

I put a bolt into the tranny that limited the stroke of the piston and it still popped off.

I spent no less than 4-5 weeks trying to make it all work on my ZF and had it on my TKO 600 and then finally gave up,, which is not like me, cause generally, I don't know how to quit,

BUT, maybe they have a remedy (?)


Posted on: 2012/11/14 19:47

Edited by LD85 on 2012/11/14 20:33:30
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Re: Vibration.... IS GONE!!!!
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The vibration is gone, the bad vibes came from the half shaft u-joint that was bad, so thanks to Bogus

Posted on: 2012/11/9 23:21
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Re: Gas Pedal Mount
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car came home today, I have to clean up and re-run the MSD 6AL wiring, then wash and wax, then drive

Posted on: 2012/11/9 23:15
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Re: Must you pull the engine on a C4 to do a cam change?
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No you do not have to pull the engine,

You can pull the radiator BUT, before you take the cam out, spin the crank and align the dots on the timing gears so all you have to do is align the marks, actually it is quite easy,, IF your back can take the leaning over part



Posted on: 2012/11/9 3:23
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Re: New additions Class III
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Quote:

flyboy wrote:
So what is it, a 9mm AR based "pistol" upper with a silencer?


It is a Short Barrel Rifle in terms of the ATF stamp.

As far as I know the uppers are the same for pistol or SBR,

Got some parts for the build accumulating
Resized Image

Current Build Specs:

Be advised, is not a budget build

DDLES AR15 9mm Lower Receiver $274.95
AR15 Pistol Caliber Upper 5.8" barrel with Bolt $991
* Vltor MUR upper
* DDLES 7" Carbine Hand Guard
* Ramped 9mm bolt
* Vltor BCM Charging Handle

Carbine stock end plate for M4/AR15 $4.95
Carbine stock lock ring - castle nut $4.95
Mil-spec Carbine Buffer Tube - 6 position $24.95
Spike's Tactical Lower Parts Kit $65.95
Mako Hand Grip O.D. $24.00
Mako Tactical Stock w/riser O.D $88.45
Rock River Ambi Safety/Selector $24.99
Heavy Buffers Q Buffer 8.5 oz $75
Wolf X Spring $20
Troy Ambi Bolt Release $19.99
Gemtech MM 9mm $565.00
Eotech EXPS2 & Magnifier= No purchased yet = $600
ATF stamp $200
Total @ $2995

Posted on: 2012/11/3 15:40
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Re: C4 Gas Pedal Bracket Installation (1989)
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Nice work Matthew, Bill's work is 1st Class

Posted on: 2012/11/3 15:34
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Re: New additions Class III
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I do have one Bullet Proof Vest, need 2 more of them :-)


Posted on: 2012/11/2 20:23
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Re: Gas Pedal Mount
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Just an FYI, my car is still not home Bill, so no mounting on my car yet, :-(

Posted on: 2012/11/2 1:54
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Re: New additions Class III
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My plan is to have a rifle and a handgun in my house for each of my family members,

so now I working on one of each for potential visitors, however many that may be :-)

Posted on: 2012/11/1 15:05
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New additions Class III
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Ordered 2 nieces pieces to my SBR puzzle

5.8" Barrel = 9mm and a Gemtech MM, waiting on ATF stamps


Attach file:



jpg  Upper, Dressed.jpg (0.00 KB)


jpg  GEM-MM9.jpg (0.00 KB)


Posted on: 2012/11/1 1:25
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Re: FAST Crank Trigger Tune update
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Ya know,, I think the only think stock on my car is the windshield

Posted on: 2012/10/31 0:20
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Re: FAST Crank Trigger Tune update
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Great info, thanks for the support!


Oh Tune update, the 5000 rpm miss is gone, I put a new MSD 6AL on it and a new coil, and rerouted teh MSD wiring away from the ECU wiring, I'm not sure but I think the MSD wiring might have been creating noise in the wires leading to the ECU.


Posted on: 2012/10/30 20:26
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Re: FAST Crank Trigger Tune update
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http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.d ... 5Z5Z50000050g~Z5Z5Z5GAWEV

Thanks again guys, I bought a new 200 amp alt, its on the way with the plug above from Corvette Central

Posted on: 2012/10/28 20:33
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Re: FAST Crank Trigger Tune update
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
I did the CS144 upgrade....very worthwhile in my opinion.


Can you post a pic or,,, does it mount in the same spot do I only need the plug?

Posted on: 2012/10/28 19:10
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Re: FAST Crank Trigger Tune update
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Matatk wrote: I would also test the spark plug wires and datalog the battery voltage. I found that I was getting a miss at high rpm under heavy load due to battery voltage drop. I added an 8 gauge ground wire to the frame from the alternator to help the circuit.


Good point, I was also looking into a higher amp alternator as well, right now I have a 120 or 140 amp, I don't recall but looking at the voltage is a good idea

Posted on: 2012/10/27 20:50
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Re: FAST Crank Trigger Tune update
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UPDATE: we have been chasing a 5000rpm miss now, replaced the spark plugs and coil, tomorrow I will swap out the old 6420 6AL for the new digital 6425 Digital 6AL, and change the plug wires

It does appear that the rear end vibration is gone at least on the dyno, honestly, we have been focused on the miss

It never freakin ennnnnddds!

Posted on: 2012/10/26 2:07
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Re: Gas Pedal Mount
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I responded , I just forward everyone to my buddy, I have no part in it,, I'll post his info if its OK

Posted on: 2012/10/26 2:03
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Re: FAST Crank Trigger Tune update
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ECU checked out OK, but the prox sensor was bad, the car fires up on first shot and the timing is rock solid in the FAST program,, so it should be tuned by the end of the week and ready for pick up with new dyno numbers.


Posted on: 2012/10/16 16:31
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Re: FAST Crank Trigger Tune update
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It has a learn mode on the XFI, but the FAST EZ EFI is "supposed" to tune itself, I do not have that version.

Posted on: 2012/9/21 18:15
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Re: FAST Crank Trigger Tune update
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Matatk wrote:
Interesting. I'm hands on so I'd love to see it in person. Got any pics? Keep us posted.


I tend to shy away from electrical, but this Vette has really taught me a lot, from re-pinning the 870 to the 165 ECU, teh pulling the entire Stock harness and looking for ground problems, to installing the FAST XFI.

The FAST XFI 2.0 is plug n play except for switched 12v and constant 12v sources, there is really nothing to know since the MSD 6AL provides the tach signal, the FAST provides the Rad-Fan on/off, and that's it really

Here are some pics from the project

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Posted on: 2012/9/21 13:05
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FAST Crank Trigger Tune update
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Well.... I must have a faulty ECU, no crank trigger signal inside the ECU

I installed a FAST Dual sync and a FAST 7.0" crank trigger, I grounded out the Dual Sync Distributor Crank signal brown wire,,, but could not get a crank signal from the crank trigger to the ECU, yes i grounded the crank trigger 2 wire connector sheathing to ground

Ohmed the wires from the sensor to the ecu,,,(1.5) checked good, checked the sensor by triggering the sensor with a metal washer and the ohm meter,, it was good,,, but still no signal and the car would not start

I grounded out the crank sensor and reconnected the FAST Dual Sync crank trigger wire and it started up instantly, sounded great

Got an RMA from FAST Tech, great guys, should get it back next week, then wrap up the tune the week after next.

I could have run it on the Dual Sync distributor signal but the whole point of the crank trigger is that it is more accurate because it is a larger diameter than the dizzy reluctor OD, and there is no reason that mu ECU should have a failed component that is not allowing the ECU to a.) put out a tach signal and b.) use the new crank trigger

This entire package cost $350 for the FAST Dual Sync distributor, $225 for the crank trigger kit, $2100 for the ECU and harness and I might add the drive shaft Speed sensor too for $200

Posted on: 2012/9/21 0:16
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Re: Gas Pedal Mount
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I hope this worked out for everyone, he has 10 on the shelf

Posted on: 2012/9/21 0:08
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Re: Vibration.... IS GONE!!!!
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All new joints straps and bolts are installed, the tune is way off right now, lots of back firing,,, so it will go to the tuner Monday for the crank trigger tune, I'll have him update me as soon as he puts it on the dyno.

Also, we'll see how much gain I get from dumping the cats too

http://mikenorrismotorsports.com/

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Mike-No ... torsports/137451412986081

Posted on: 2012/9/8 23:02
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Re: Finished my Project, Remington 700 LTR
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Posted on: 2012/9/2 0:34
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Re: Vibration.... IS GONE!!!!
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I just ordered new Spicers, straps and bolts from Denny's

Posted on: 2012/9/2 0:12
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Re: Finished my Project, Remington 700 LTR
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Quote:

JrRifleCoach wrote:
Quote:

LD85 wrote:
It's just the stock Rem-700 Light Tactical Barrel and I use 1050 FPS Subsonic loads in .308. The .3078 caliber is new to me so I am excited to shoot it this weekend.


Is that 1.10 or 1.12 twist barrel?
I'd like to heard about the accuracy/consistency with 1050fps
You think it'll hold a 1" group at 100 yards?


1:12 twist,, going to shoot it today, psyched!

Posted on: 2012/9/1 18:04
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Re: Finished my Project, Remington 700 LTR
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Posted on: 2012/9/1 17:59
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Re: Finished my Project, Remington 700 LTR
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This is the base plan, subject to change
DDLES Dedicated 9mm Lower - $265 (Custom NFA engraving before anodize +$15)
DDLES Forged Flat-top 9mm Upper - $150
CMMG Enhanced Ramped 9mm Bolt - $200
Charging Handle w/Tac Latch - $38
Spike's 7.5" 9mm Barrel - $165 (Plus A2 9mm Flash Hider - $20)
Troy 7" TRX 4-rail Handguard - $180
Jard 4.5# Adjustable Trigger - $150
KNS Gen 2 Mod 2 Pins - $25
DPMS LPK Minus FCG - $39
6-pos Buffer Tube + Wolf Extra-power Spring - $60
Slash's 9Q Heavy Buffer - $75
Magpul ASAP Sling Plate - $30
Magpul MOE Grip - $20
Magpul MBUS Set (Black) - $85
EOTech XPS2 - $470
Gemtech MM - $565 + $200 stamp
Total is $2752 with optics, suppressor and stamp.
Resized Image]

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I really like the magwell size
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Posted on: 2012/8/31 13:14
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Re: Vibration.... IS GONE!!!!
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Did you install your U-joints and did you use Spicers? I used my bench vise and a large ID socket and they went together pretty well, but I might still let my drive shaft guys check the balance since they are out. When they tested my drive shaft they said it was out a couple of grams, so they zeroed it.

I used Spicers last time, so I will have to order them unless Patterson Driveshaft has them locally.

Posted on: 2012/8/31 11:34
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Re: Finished my Project, Remington 700 LTR
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It's just the stock Rem-700 Light Tactical Barrel and I use 1050 FPS Subsonic loads in .308. The .3078 caliber is new to me so I am excited to shoot it this weekend. I have 7.62x39 AK & Colt LE6920 and Spikes 5.56 AR's and some .22's but this is my first .308

I opened up a NFA Trust last week, so all future cans and the SBR I am building will go into the Trust.

The Stamp took 7 months from the day I mailed it to the day I got it back.

Posted on: 2012/8/31 11:30
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Re: Finished my Project, Remington 700 LTR
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Thanks,,, but No, coating and plating is one thing I don't do,

Do you know some good sources? I'm always looking

Resized Image

Posted on: 2012/8/31 0:09
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Finished my Project, Remington 700 LTR
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Remington 700 Light Tactical Rifle .308, Simmons 6.5 x 20 x 50, YHM Phantom Suppressor w/QD, Harris SBRM

Resized Image
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Posted on: 2012/8/30 23:51
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Re: Vibration.... IS GONE!!!!
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I finally got around to pulling the half shafts tonight

One of the u-joints had a chatter/flat spot on the pinion end, so I am assuming that this was the culprit. Probably in a bind as Bogus described,,,, and,,It was on the passenger side which I was suspicious of all along, so I'm feeling very confident that the problem will be resolved.

I will install all new forged U-joints and clean everything as Bogus suggests and put it all back together.

Last weekend I installed the FAST 2.0 Crank Trigger so once its back together next weekend, (going to the NHRA Nationals and shooting range this weekend) it will be ready for a tune, less the cats,

A Special, Big Thanks to Bogus for figuring this out for me
:-)



Posted on: 2012/8/30 23:32
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Re: Door panel repair advice?
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I know that with some amorphous resins, i.e. ABS PET PAT etc, you can flash the gloss off the surface with a flame and that helps with adhesion, we do this before pad printing parts such as the window up down info, mirror info on your car door panels

melting it back together could work, its worth a try, maybe i got lucky

Posted on: 2012/8/2 1:28
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Re: Door panel repair advice?
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I used Professional Sno Wite Body Filler Repair kit, I still have the can,, with mat and hardener, its been on since 1997, never had an issue with it not sticking or coming loose, a bondo kit is cheap too.

I sell plastic bonding equipment, i.e. Ultrasonic welders in 20, 30, 40, kHz ( www.dukane.com ) and they sort of weld, really they melt material together, so I guess you could weld a strip over the top, but you would need a tip that has a protrusion on the end of the horn that would penetrate through both materials.


Posted on: 2012/8/1 22:51
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Re: Door panel repair advice?
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You have to spread out past the stress area in order for it to last, bondo is like steel when its done.

Posted on: 2012/8/1 18:21
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Re: Vibration.... IS GONE!!!!
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
I don't think it's a balance issue... When you drop the half shafts, check the play in the ujoints. If they are tight, there is your problem!!!


I'll check that first! Thanks B!

Posted on: 2012/8/1 11:36
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Re: Last Stages-->> C4 85 Engine pics
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Nice, I did a Super ram and Miniram in the Red trim , I love it!

Posted on: 2012/8/1 11:36
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Re: Fan on / off temps?
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
I believe mine is programmed at 205 on and 190 off. Much lower than that and your fan will be constantly running. I'll have to double check it, but that won't be until I do some more datalogging.


That's a good point, I have the Dewitts fan and I think I will set it higher to 200 and off at 185

Posted on: 2012/8/1 11:35
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Re: Door panel repair advice?
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2005/9/16 0:00
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I used a Bondo repair kit on mine and it lasted since 1997 when I bought the car, i used the fiberglass mat with the putty and hardener after I had the panel clamped into potion the way i wanted it, the hardener will make it like steel when it is done.

warning, the bondo will smell like a body shop for a week ro so, but it was worth the effort.

Posted on: 2012/8/1 11:33
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Fan on / off temps?
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I don't want to start a mondo debate but I wonder what others program their fans to come on and off at?

I had mine programmed to come on at 190F and off at 175F


I ordered the PAC-2700, Electronic Fan Controller 70 Amp,

The PAC-2700 was designed for the ultimate in flexibility, and to be a simple add-on in any application using an electric fan. Included is a 70amp relay, enough for even the most power hungry of cooling fans. Fully programmable, the PAC-2700 will work with many existing electronic water temp gauges which indicate a numerical temperature reading (as opposed to " Cold, Normal, Hot", etc), operating from the single-wire temperature sending unit already installed. A dedicated sending unit can also be installed.

The PAC-2700 features fully programmable “fan on” and “fan off” temperatures to suit any application or personal preferences. The PAC-2700 has the capability to leave the electric fan operating after the engine has been shut down for a user adjustable time. The PAC-2700 offers a full digital LED readout for displaying temperature readings and maintaining simple installation.

Box measures 4" wide, 2.5" high, 1" thick. Mounting is recommended inside the cab of the vehicle or an alternate dry environment.

Fan Temperature Selection Range: 150F- 250F

**The use of a second relay RLY-1 (0-30 amp) or RLY-3 (0-70 amp)(not included) will be required for dual fan or two speed fan operation.

The PAC-2700 features a 24-month warranty against manufacturer defects!

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Posted on: 2012/8/1 11:18
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