Well.... I must have a faulty ECU, no crank trigger signal inside the ECU

I installed a FAST Dual sync and a FAST 7.0" crank trigger, I grounded out the Dual Sync Distributor Crank signal brown wire,,, but could not get a crank signal from the crank trigger to the ECU, yes i grounded the crank trigger 2 wire connector sheathing to ground

Ohmed the wires from the sensor to the ecu,,,(1.5) checked good, checked the sensor by triggering the sensor with a metal washer and the ohm meter,, it was good,,, but still no signal and the car would not start

I grounded out the crank sensor and reconnected the FAST Dual Sync crank trigger wire and it started up instantly, sounded great

Got an RMA from FAST Tech, great guys, should get it back next week, then wrap up the tune the week after next.

I could have run it on the Dual Sync distributor signal but the whole point of the crank trigger is that it is more accurate because it is a larger diameter than the dizzy reluctor OD, and there is no reason that mu ECU should have a failed component that is not allowing the ECU to a.) put out a tach signal and b.) use the new crank trigger

This entire package cost $350 for the FAST Dual Sync distributor, $225 for the crank trigger kit, $2100 for the ECU and harness and I might add the drive shaft Speed sensor too for $200

Interesting. I'm hands on so I'd love to see it in person. Got any pics? Keep us posted.

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I tend to shy away from electrical, but this Vette has really taught me a lot, from re-pinning the 870 to the 165 ECU, teh pulling the entire Stock harness and looking for ground problems, to installing the FAST XFI.

The FAST XFI 2.0 is plug n play except for switched 12v and constant 12v sources, there is really nothing to know since the MSD 6AL provides the tach signal, the FAST provides the Rad-Fan on/off, and that's it really

Here are some pics from the project

Does it really tune it's self as you drive?

It has a learn mode on the XFI, but the FAST EZ EFI is "supposed" to tune itself, I do not have that version.

ECU checked out OK, but the prox sensor was bad, the car fires up on first shot and the timing is rock solid in the FAST program,, so it should be tuned by the end of the week and ready for pick up with new dyno numbers.

Excellent!

sweet!

Hope it fixes itself quick!

Where is the proximity sensor mounted and how did you determine it was bad?

UPDATE: we have been chasing a 5000rpm miss now, replaced the spark plugs and coil, tomorrow I will swap out the old 6420 6AL for the new digital 6425 Digital 6AL, and change the plug wires

It does appear that the rear end vibration is gone at least on the dyno, honestly, we have been focused on the miss

It never freakin ennnnnddds!

I would also test the spark plug wires and datalog the battery voltage. I found that I was getting a miss at high rpm under heavy load due to battery voltage drop. I added an 8 gauge ground wire to the frame from the alternator to help the circuit.

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Good point, I was also looking into a higher amp alternator as well, right now I have a 120 or 140 amp, I don't recall but looking at the voltage is a good idea

I did the CS144 upgrade....very worthwhile in my opinion.

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Can you post a pic or,,, does it mount in the same spot do I only need the plug?

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.d ... 5Z5Z50000050g~Z5Z5Z5GAWEV

Thanks again guys, I bought a new 200 amp alt, its on the way with the plug above from Corvette Central

Just curious is the 200 amp a powermaster? It might be a direct fit?

I did the CS144 upgrade. I had to file the mounting bracket slightly and a small spot on the case. I measured everything with calipers and it came out pretty precise. I am pretty sure I posted a tech thread on it. When I filed the case I taped a plastic bag around it to keep any aluminum shavings out.

There are some pics in here of how Sliding modified his cs144 case:

http://www.corvetteguruforum.com/modu ... e=&topic_id=11535&forum=1

Great info, thanks for the support!


Oh Tune update, the 5000 rpm miss is gone, I put a new MSD 6AL on it and a new coil, and rerouted teh MSD wiring away from the ECU wiring, I'm not sure but I think the MSD wiring might have been creating noise in the wires leading to the ECU.

There is a good chance of that. Glad it is resolved. Regardless, the upgraded alternator is still worthwhile.

Ya know,, I think the only think stock on my car is the windshield