All Posts (shakedown067)
Re: Resonated core catalytic converters |
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Senior Guru
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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This is the joker I have on mine. It's crazy small and fits easily in the tight space the vette has...
http://www.planetmagnaflow.com/shop/magnaflow-59959-690.html Man, I wish they had them on sale when I bought mine. Damn that's cheap for a cat....
Posted on: 2010/3/15 17:15
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Re: New Pix of the ole girl |
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Still running street tires. I don't plan on going to R-compounds for at least another season, although the Nitto NT-555R II's are calling my name. Not quite ready to change classes though. Want to gain some more experience first and I'd prefer to do that with street rubber.
Posted on: 2010/3/15 14:44
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Re: New Pix of the ole girl |
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That's what she's built for. Just need rubber for my ZO6 wheels and she'll really turn some heads at the autocross. Will be hunting for another top five finish overall in two weeks. Got a freakin' Cobra Replica car in my class this go around though...should be fun to say the least. If I bet him, ya'll certainly here about it. :D Now if I could just fit in at set of Z51 springs to the budget.
Posted on: 2010/3/14 22:09
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New Pix of the ole girl |
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All cleaned up with no place to go...so why not take some pics.
Posted on: 2010/3/14 20:55
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Re: LT1 Balancer - Interesting |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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I hope to never see that side of my balancer. Sorry, can't help.
Posted on: 2010/3/12 22:11
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Re: a o Anyone put in the a o engineering forced air induction system, need advice on cutting? |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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I tried to find the link from harbor freight, but I used a cutting drill bit. Basically acted like a jig saw, but can work in the smaller area. I used it to cut out the plastic bumper up front, then used a sheetrock cutter to cutout the foam, then used the drill bit again to cut out the fiberglass. I removed the air intake and cut the fiberglass from inside the engine bay.
Of course my hole is MUCH bigger than you'll need to cut yours I do believe. I made a custom one...much cheaper.
Posted on: 2010/3/12 18:29
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Re: 12hrs of Sebring |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Couldn't agree more. This will be my tenth in 11 years. I missed 2005, started a new job and couldn't take the time off. Should have just gone for the weekend.
Posted on: 2010/3/12 15:25
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Re: 12hrs of Sebring |
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For those of you that'll be there Thursday night...check out the WFO party info.
http://www.sebringfans.com/forums/index.php/topic,1936.0.html
Posted on: 2010/3/11 16:15
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Re: 12hrs of Sebring |
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I'm making sure to stock up on extra beer this year. So all Guru fans stop by the outside of turn 1 (look for the jake flag and sebringfans.com truck/banners), say hi, and grab a beer. If you see an Avalanche rolling by with sebringfans.com on it...hop in for a ride. Hell, I'll probably be driving the damn thing...
Posted on: 2010/3/11 14:51
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Re: My new "AFSB" brace |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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If I had a garage....I'd roll that just about all summer long.
Posted on: 2010/3/11 14:44
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Re: Corvette Racing History close to home |
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very cool stuff
Posted on: 2010/3/10 23:48
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Re: MSD Opti @ 10k Miles |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Nice. I'm happy with mine. I think I just passed two years...about 10-12,000 miles.
Posted on: 2010/3/10 22:50
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Re: 12hrs of Sebring |
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I'll keep an eye out, but that'll match about half the people with cameras. LOL
Posted on: 2010/3/10 20:54
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Re: 12hrs of Sebring |
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Hell, I hope not. It's the coldest winter on record in FL.
Posted on: 2010/3/10 20:40
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Re: 12hrs of Sebring |
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Senior Guru
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Yeah, who knew that would be an option this time of the year.
Posted on: 2010/3/10 14:35
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Re: 12hrs of Sebring |
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Senior Guru
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Nice. I hear it's a great setup at Sebring. I'll certainly be taking photos of the coral Saturday. If you see a 6'3" dude in a blue photo vest and Johnny O hat...that'd be me.
Posted on: 2010/3/9 15:16
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Re: 12hrs of Sebring |
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Senior Guru
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Good luck Jeff. Hope you can make it out and your credentials arrive. It's so much more fun on the other side of the fence. I'm hoping to find a fire suit so I can go in the pits (and for a possible chump car event later in the year). For those that make it. Keep an eye out for the Jake flag on the outside of turn1. Spots 69 & 70.
Posted on: 2010/3/9 14:03
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Re: Shortened A4 shifter mod |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Of course I always get to into the mod and always forget to take pics. Not to mention I'm usually too dirty and don't want to touch the camera. Below are the instructions I followed to do mine. It's very basic. He recommended taking off the Trim panel, and it would be safer...but I didn't. 1) Get an old sheet or something similar and cut a hole in it to fit around the shifter. 2) Remove the center button by gently prying it up with a small flathead screwdriver. 3) The knob is held on with a snapring that you must get off using whatever method you can. I used snapring pliers and a flathead screwdriver. You probably won't be using it again so if it gets bent don't worry. 4) Once you pull the snapring off, then the knob should pull off. (I had to work with it to pull it up.) 5) After the knob is off you will see what the outer and inner shafts look like. You must cut both of them and then make a notch so it looks like it does now. 6) Measure the difference between the inner shaft and outer shaft. Then decide how low you want the shift knob to be. At this point it is personal preference AND you must "eyeball" the measurement since there is no real way to measure it acurately. (I used a metal art ruler and used the metric side to be the most accurate) 7) Once you decide how low you want it, then take some sort of cutting tool (dremel, air cutting tool, etc.) and cut the outer shaft to the proper length. This is where the sheet comes it to protect your interior from sparks and metal. (I used a pipe cutter, took about 5 minutes) 8) After you cut the outer shaft, then cut the inner shaft so that it sticks up a little higher (per your measurements earlier). Here's where sparks will fly 9) Then you have to cut a notch in the outer shaft so the knob will fit back on. I cut mine a little smaller so the knob was hard to push on and therefore will stay on without the snapring. (I cut mine deeper so it was easier to push the button in) 10) Push the center button back in. Reinstall trim around shifter. To get the shift boot to clear the new shortened shifter, push it through the the trimwork (turning it inside out) then push it back through with the top part still pushed in on itself. This may not sound clear, but it will be when you are doing it. --->For more on what I did. I measured the shaft to 2" and cut it off. I then measured 2" on the button linkage and cut it off. I then took the top part of the shaft and placed it upside down on the shaft. I then marked the shaft for the length and placement of the new grooves for the shifter knob. I measured them a few times, then made the grooves about a 1/16th of an inch deeper and it'll make the button easier to depress. Good luck.
Posted on: 2010/3/9 2:56
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Re: Shortened A4 shifter mod |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Where did you order it from. I need to replace mine and was thinking of a carbon fiber one. May stick with leather...not sure. Let me know how you like the CF one when you get it.
Posted on: 2010/3/9 2:43
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12hrs of Sebring |
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Any one else going? This will be my 10th in 11 years!
Here's our view from atop our rental RV.
Posted on: 2010/3/9 0:54
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Re: Shortened A4 shifter mod |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Yeah, I was going to cut the groove first, but like you said, I wanted to make sure it was in the right location after the cut...not before. I also figured if the pipe cutter didn't work, I could finish it off with the dremel. It didn't really take much at all for the snap ring to work. I also test fitted the snap ring before putting the knob back on.
I did this all without even removing the center console cover or shift boot. Just got a drop cloth and cut a hole in the middle for the shaft to go through. Then just made sure the steering wheel and radio bezel were covered well. If I did it again, I'd get some blue painters tape and tape the drop cloth to the shaft to make it a tight fit. I still need to clean the boot from all the dust.
Posted on: 2010/3/8 22:42
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Re: Shortened A4 shifter mod |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Yep, just picked up a cheap pipe cutter at harbor freight. Used it to cut the shaft and the groove for the snap ring. I cut the shaft first, then had to be careful cutting the snap ring groove as only one of the rollers was in contact with the shaft. It ended up working out though. Just cut off the linkage with a dremel, cut the slots for the shifter knob with stacked cutting wheels on the dremel for the desired width, and drilled a hole in the shifter button linkage so the button would stay locked in place. It was quite easy. The biggest thing was actually getting the depth right on the grooves for the shifter button. Making them slightly deeper (1/16th), the button is easier to push down (requested by my wife).
Posted on: 2010/3/8 19:47
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Shortened A4 shifter mod |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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I finally gathered up the courage to shorten the A4 shifter. Knocked 2" off. I think most do 2.5" but I didn't need it that short. Just wanted a little more room for the receiver and I've found it's the perfect height to rest my hand while crusing. It was fairly easy to do and took all of about 45 minutes. The hardest part, was the groove for the snap ring. But with the pipe cutter, that wasn't really all that hard either. Just measured 5-6 times then cut. I think it came out really nice. Now I just need to order a new shifter knob.
Posted on: 2010/3/8 18:22
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Re: Van Steel Coilovers for my 85 |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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I had thought about coil-overs, but for the price (and mounting issues that were brought up), I've still got my eye on VBandP springs.
http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=575
Posted on: 2010/3/2 3:32
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Re: And the C4 closes in on the top spot |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Certainly am not arguing that fact. Buying electronics now days is like playing craps. You win some, you loose some. Most nice setups are out of date before they really wear out...hince why I bought, what I'm calling, a starter kit.
Posted on: 2010/2/23 15:42
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Re: And the C4 closes in on the top spot |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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I got an el cheapo insignia flip camera (camera and 2gb card for $80 @ bestbuy). The mount on mine cracked too and I just got some plastic epoxy and put it back together. More I think about it, I think it's the battery cover. I'm gonna try to tape it and see what happens. Hmm, might have to record my drive to work tomorrow and see how it goes. Mine isn't too hard on batteries, I think. Two AA about every half hour of taping I guess. I only use it for my autocross vids and I only use it for web quality as it pretty much sucks on the TV.
Sucks that most electronics now days are just considered throw away items. Nothing lasts anymore.
Posted on: 2010/2/22 21:49
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And the C4 closes in on the top spot |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Had another great autocross this past weekend. It was a short, fast, but tricky little course if you didn't read it right. Was an absolute blast in the vette. Even gave about 5 ride-a-longs and got in 10 runs. I managed a nice 1st place in class and 2nd overall. Luckily some of the A-class (modified/R-compounds) guys where at an SCCA event. I now can't wait to get tires for the ZO6 wheels. Oh she's going to piss some people off, but in a good friendly way. :D
Check out some in car action.... YouTube Vid Sorry for the crappy sound, I've got something lose on the camera. Can't figure what's rattling on it...but I know it's from the camera it's self.
Posted on: 2010/2/22 20:58
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Re: mod. to the l98 A.I.R. pulley |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Very sharp!
Posted on: 2010/2/9 17:15
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Re: New Wheels for Track Days |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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The 555R II's are their road race tire. The 555R's are the drag radial. I certainly wouldn't run a drag radial for a road course.
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/dir ... I+Extreme&typ=Competition Plus, Nitto doesn't make the sizes I need for the NT-01s.
Posted on: 2010/2/8 21:36
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Re: New Wheels for Track Days |
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Yep, chrome. Doubt they where stock. Not any heavier than the ones I have on the car now...at least that I could tell with one in one hand, and the other in the other hand. Not too worried about weight at this point. Just need a little more width to lay down some wider rubber on the pavement. Would love to have found a stock set of ZO6's but for the price for these...I couldn't pass them up. If they last me for a couple of years I'll be happy. May try to get the thick chrome stripped, but I doubt I'll waste the money on it as this point. I'm not that quick yet to be able to tell the difference in the weight of the wheels.
Posted on: 2010/2/8 18:48
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Re: New Wheels for Track Days |
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Yep, although they are 17x9.5 and 18x10.5. Looking to hook up a set of Nitto 555R II's (275/40/17-305/35/18) for autocross and an HPDE event or two a year.
Posted on: 2010/2/8 17:48
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Re: New Wheels for Track Days |
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I'll probably put them on for a day or two to see how they grip around town if I know it won't be raining. If they are slick, I'll just let them wait till next season, but that'll be sad. At least I have options, just don't want to buy new rubber right now.
Registration closes wednesday night, so thursday I'll know what kind of competition I'll have. It'll be a game time decision. If my arch-nemesis registers, I'll probably just leave on the sticky michelins.
Posted on: 2010/2/8 15:32
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Re: New Wheels for Track Days |
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I wouldn't use them for an HPDE, but they are fine for autocross. They are JUST above the wear bar, otherwise I'd get bumped a class as they'd be considered slicks. I may only get one event in with them, but I'm hoping for two or three as I want to get DOT R compounds for them and that'll change my class. I'm currently leading my class, so I don't want to change classes till next season.
Posted on: 2010/2/8 14:26
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New Wheels for Track Days |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Scored a cheap set of ZO6 chrome wheels and goodyears just about down to the wear bars. Should be prefect to help me get a little more grip at my autocross events. The Chrome was very pitted and peeling in places so I got them cheap. Sprayed some satin black wheel paint to spruce them up a bit. Since they will be track tires I didn't care. Hope to have Nitto 555R II's for next season (sept) and move to another class.
Test fit during my DRM bias spring install. Rears, left currents, right new worn crapyears. Man they are loud tires. Filling up the wheel well better than my Y2Ks. And the new look after some spray today
Posted on: 2010/2/8 1:28
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Re: SYS? |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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I agree too. I'd put it on a charger just to make sure the ALT isn't overworking.
Posted on: 2010/1/29 17:40
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Re: speaking of frame braces... |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Nice. I've been thinking about talking to the chassis shop down from my house to see what it would take to make a tubular X-brace. I want that puppy STIFF.
Posted on: 2010/1/27 20:55
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Re: speaking of ice racing |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Oh hell no. That's way too cold. Looks wicked fun though...
Posted on: 2010/1/26 0:22
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Re: new info on vette tv show |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Ah yes, it certainly makes you miss the early years of Speed Channel and all the great road racing coverage they used to carry.
Posted on: 2010/1/25 18:38
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Re: Wheels are done |
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2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
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Those 50th wheels turned out great. Nicely done with the center caps!
Posted on: 2010/1/25 0:04
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Re: Dual Purpose Seats for C4 |
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They sure aren't, but man do they have a ton of positioning options.
Posted on: 2010/1/21 23:14
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Re: Dual Purpose Seats for C4 |
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I figure I'll go with a fixed position anyway. My car is getting retired from long range family road trips so that won't be a problem. So is he selling those seat rails?
Posted on: 2010/1/21 22:36
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Re: Dual Purpose Seats for C4 |
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Those are pretty sharp. I've got a friend that runs one in his 96 LT4, but it doesn't go back far enough to tell if I really fit or not. It was VERY snug, but my knees where sitting just under my chin so that may have thrown off how it actually fit.
Posted on: 2010/1/21 22:18
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Re: Dual Purpose Seats for C4 |
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I don't mind paying up to around $500 for each seat. My main concern is still safely using the stock seat belts. I like the side bolsters, but most seem too high to safely use the stock belts. That's why I really like that sparco I posted at the top. I'm pretty limber for being 6'3" and the car is already difficult to get in and out of, so It can't really be that much worse. If it is, I'll just call that my daily exercise. I also have to watch what's going to fit in the vette and fit my big butt.
The forza is also on my list, but curious if it'll fit. I certainly like the price and every corbeau i've sat in has been nice. I've got to take some measurements and find a shop in town that has some nice seat options. Right now I'm trying to just narrow down and confirm my options.
Posted on: 2010/1/21 20:23
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Re: Dual Purpose Seats for C4 |
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I never move my seat so I'm not worried about the recline feature. Just set the angle with the seat mounts and I'm done. I only have the drivers side power seat track and I'd certainly ditch that for manual. New seat tracks would be in order. The modified seats, while interesting and I have a guy that could do it, is not what I want. I want a seat that will keep me planted in one spot better.
Thanks, you made find one that's even more expensive... http://www.cobraseatsusa.com/products ... s/brand/Cobra/prodID/1987
Posted on: 2010/1/21 18:50
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Dual Purpose Seats for C4 |
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The car is pretty much my daily driver as it's just a lot more fun to drive than my truck. But I'm starting to do more autocross events and possibly some HPDE events with her and am looking at getting better seats. The covers need to be replaced anyway so I'd rather have a nice pair of race seats than refinish the stockers. I'd prefer to have a nice fixed back seat as I drive pretty straight up as it is. Below is the one i'm currently looking at, but I want to try it out to make sure I fit first.
http://www.saferacer.com/sparco-chron ... -seat.html?productid=1337 Whatcha think? Any other options that ya'll suggest?
Posted on: 2010/1/21 17:11
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Re: NASA or SCCA |
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I have a crossbar behind my seat that's JUST low enough I think to mount the harness to. I've yet to get a pair of racing buckets, but it's on my list. My problem is I still drive my car daily, so trying to find fixed back seats that can use both 5/6 point harnesses and stock belts is very difficult. And like you said, right now I'm more worried about driving on the street. Didn't even think that without the 5-point the hans is worthless, but the stock belts give way to slow down the impact, not to mention the big punch in the face from the airbags. If I am able to start doing more HPDE's I'll make sure I can afford the Hans when I get seats and a 5/6 point harness.
Posted on: 2010/1/21 17:03
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Re: NASA or SCCA |
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Wow, I really like the virtual heel toe technique. I'll certainly have to give it a try. Just ordered up the Hooked DVD. Can't wait. Wow, I'm getting WAY too excited about doing an HPDE event. I'm sure my life insurance guy and my wife would be thrilled. :P Say, do you recommend a hans type devise? My helmet has provisions for one. Or is that over kill until you really build up speed and/or running door to door? I'm sure my wife would like for me to be as safe as possible. Is there one that you'd recommend that's not as crazy expensive as the Hans?
Posted on: 2010/1/21 14:18
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Re: NASA or SCCA |
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Oh yeah, Sebring is VERY bumpy. It's just a great course, with great history. I've wondering about downshifting with the auto on a road course. I would think you'd really roast the fluid? I'm pretty good with not just MASHING the gas coming out of a corner. I'm all about good throttle control...or at least continuing to learn to control it. But I can hang the rear out with out feeling out of control. Just gets the heart rate up a few extra notches. Wish I could get you as an instructor...you sound like you'd not only be good, but fun. Yeah, still not a big fan of my J55's, but I think they'll do me for now. A C5 brake upgrade is certainly in the future though. I figure the ducts are to just help the rotors last a bit longer...not crack quite so quick. I figured the pads are still going to go quickly. Gotta look up that hooked on driving DVD. I'm sure I could burn up my DVD player watching it...over...and over...and over. Thanks for all the great info....
Posted on: 2010/1/21 2:41
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Re: NASA or SCCA |
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I got to do a ride along with a friend in his 96 LT4 for a HPDE. He was really easy on the brakes so I was glad I rode along and payed attention to his driving style. He was still pretty quick, but not bashing the hell out of the car. Brake hard, let off, brake hard. Just give the rotors a quick breather or two in the hard corners. All this was at Sebring, so you know it can be pretty tough on brakes. I also have some brake ducts, but no spindle ducts yet to really help in cooling the rotors. This car is an auto so I don't plan on doing more than an HPDE event or two with her...I'll wait till I get a six-speed to really tear up a road course...aka Sebring.
Posted on: 2010/1/20 21:25
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Re: NASA or SCCA |
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2009/12/20 16:51 Posts:
119
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Quote:
I run the Hawk HPS on my 96 that is my DD and monthly autocrosser. They performed very well last weekend.
Posted on: 2010/1/20 18:39
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