Very nice!

Aardwolf is spot-on regarding ducting. If you do even one HPDE a year, it's still worth it. Please don't take this as me being an ass, but basically if you think you're fast enough to need race pads, then you're fast enough to need ducting.

Race pads can definitely take more heat, but if you're running your car at 90%+ you're still cooking the rotors which will cause warping and excessive wear. Also as good as they are at taking heat, race pads do still have limits and will wear excessively and lose their bite. And you WILL boil your fluid.

If you're running street pads for roadracing, obviously you need ducting that much more unless you're really taking it easy.

I run hawk HPS on the street, but never ran their race pads (I just never tried). I've been really happy with Performance Friction race pads which are also available in C4 sizes. The 01 compounds are fantastic and not too bad on rotors.

Regardless, you definitely need good brake ducting if you're running any form of race pad -- particularly on high-speed tracks.

Hi Brian, I also posted this on the other forum in reply to your question about details:

I'd be happy to provide all of the details. First a warning: the Dry sump literally more than doubled the overall work on the engine project due to fabrication and general pain-in-the-butt factor. Also added about $2700 to the cost and that's with me doing all of the fabrication work with basically free welding work from my brother and a buddy (welding alone on the tank would have been another few hundred). That was also buying as much as possible on e-bay, although I ended up rebuilding the pump so it was only a few hundred less than new.

Also, with your supercharger, I really doubt it will all fit, but it's possible.

Pump:
Johnson's HTP 4-stage (3 suction, with 0.8" pressure section). If you ever want a good conversation around dry sump technology and how to set up a system, give Roy a call. The pumps are far from cheap, but much better than the regular stuff like weaver, barnes, etc. www.johnsonsoilpumps.com

Pump mount:
Custom. Required approximately 5"x6" piece of 1/2" aluminum plus 2"x6" piece of 7/8" aluminum to make it. I have a 'spare' bracket that I made so I could give you dimensions. Of course, due to clearance, the bracket will ONLY work with the Johnson's pump.

You MUST have a Delteq or LTCC ignition setup since the pump goes where the plug wires come out on the passenger's side

Pump Drive:
I actually got the mandrel off of e-bay. None of the mandrels I found will work with the stock LT1 damper. I already had an ATI damper. The drive mandrel press-fits inside the ATI hub. For pulleys, standard 1" ID HTD 19 tooth for the drive mandrel, 35 tooth 5/8" ID for the pump. (drive ratio of 54% which is what Roy recommended for use with 0-30 oil)

Motor mounts:
Due to lack of clearance with the steering rack as well as scavenge lines on the passenger side, I had to fab up solid motor mounts that move the motor back 1/4". It really needs more, but that's as far back as you can really go without screwing other stuff up. I have dimensions for the mounts -- pretty straightforward to fab.

Oil Tank:
Completely custom, but I did use the top off of a coleman tank. In hindsight I wouldn't go that route again -- would have just fabbed it completely. I was worried about having a round top for proper oil de-airation, but you could accomplish the same thing with a square tank and round internal baffels. This one is an off-line conversation.

Oil Pan:
Hamburgers standard post-'86 (one piece rear seal) pan. It only comes with two pickups so I bought an extra weld-in bung and some tube to fabricate an extra one (more welding). If you went with a 3-stage instead of 4, it will save you a bunch of work and money (cheaper pump, fewer lines), but you won't get any (or much) crankcase vacuum. Again, in hindsight my 4-stage is probably overkill, but it's cool

Wet sump pump block-off:
I used a standard rear billit main cap, but had the machine shop install a plug in it for use with the dry-sump. That way I always have the option to switch back to wet sump if I want. Also, you must retain the oil pump drive (that bolts down in the rear of the valley) since it's necessary for proper lifter oiling, but I just removed the drive gear from it since it's not used (just a press pin holds the gear on).

Bottom-end build:
Rings are really the only consideration. If you're going with a pump that will make vacuum just let your builder know since he may want to put in looser rings. Not really necessary, though. Also, Roy Johnson really pushes 0-30 Amsoil for use with his pumps. That's a factor when determining bearing clearances so discuss with your builder. Otherwise you can just run the pump a little slower with heavier oil.

External oil filter:
I bought an external mount fora fram HP6 (huge honkin' filter). Again, overkill. Takes up a lot of space, but never have to worry about the filter. I mounted it down by the power steering cooler (only place it would fit).

Breather:
Peterson dry sump breather. DON'T use the little can with a K&N filter on top -- it will blow it right off at WOT (according to Roy).

Lines:
There's 23 feet of -12 braided line on mine (includes the oil cooer and oil thermosta which added about 12 feet total. Also about 5 feet of -16 from the pump to the tank. I also put peterson in-line scavenge screens between the pan and pump. If I recall correctly, there are a total of 21 AN fittings (including the 6 required for the thermostat and cooler). Most of mine are summit, but a few of them are aeroquip since summit doesn't make 180s.

Headers:
I have EM's like you. With the peterson in-line screens, there is VERY little clearance between the #4 pipe and the scavenge lines.

PS resevoir mont:
Since the pump mounts to the factory PS tank mount holes in the block, I fabbed up a simple aluminum mount for the tank and ran a normal rubber line from the tank to the pump.

That pretty much covers it. The only other thing I would have changed so far is the power steering rack mounts. I installed poly mounts on it, but the drive mandrel is VERY close. So close that I literally have to jack the motor up 1/2" just to get clearance to change a belt. If you've ever watched the steering rack while someone moves the wheel, you know that it moves around more than you would expect. In hindsight I would have made solid mounts for it (still may do).

Again, I can't stress enough how much of a pain in the a$$ it was (but worth it in the end). Also, maintenance will be more of a pain due to loss of clearance in many areas. I have a boat-load of pics and more details. If you'd like, PM me and I'll shoot you my number for a chat.

Heresy Gary!

Seriously a very legit question. The LS7 is obviously a great motor and would have made for a fun project. I did seriously consider going that route, but went this way because:
1) I liked the idea of doing the whole thing from scratch so I could pick all the components I wanted. The project was just as much about seeing how well I could come up with a package (going through the process) as it was about results. It's definitely not completely logical -- just something I always wanted to do.
2) Growing up with the old small block chevy I always had a place in my heart for them. That's one of the reasons I have a C4 instead of a newer LSX car. Again, not logical but personal preference.

Hi guys, I didn't even realize this was posted over here. Thanks for the comments!

For me, the dry sump wasn't required, but it's nice for piece-of-mind. I have to admit, the biggest thing was to see if I could do it. It was a fun, albeit expensive and sometimes stressful addition to the engine project

Bill, you can actually find the Hamburger's pans on e-bay. I got mine for $30. I welded in an additional scavenge fitting and pickup since the pan is only available with 2 from the factory. It's a very basic pan, no kickout. It does have a windage screen, though. I didn't put in a crank scraper. After talking with Roy Johnson (who built the pump) and my engine builder, they said it wasn't worth it at my power and RPM level.

The next time I go to the dyno I want to see if it makes much of a difference without vacuum in the crankcase. Right now it pulls a little over 12"hg at WOT, about 7" at idle.

The next project will be Gary's C4 coilover setup