You might want to check out Stef's Fabricaation.

Thay make a lot of different breathers/catch cans.

http://www.stefs.com/products/drysump ... overflow&breathertank.htm

Buick used a combustion chamber cleaner for the Grand National's. I don't remeber the name or part number but it worked great.

You are right.

I'm sorry if you think I was being disrespectful of anyone.

I did not mean to imply that all or even many would panic. Fire is a very scarry thing and no one knows how they will react until they have delt with a fire, and every fire is different. I have been in fires of severl types and I know from experience that even a trained professional can panic in a fire.

With that said I was simply emphasizing that an onboard system is essential in a race car.

Any vehicle on the track should have a mounted system. As stated above Halon is the best. CO2 is good but if you are in a enclosed confind area it can cause a person to suffocate, CO2 can displace the oxygen in the lungs.

I think track workers are great people and desirve our thanks. Unforunately they can still panic in an emergancy and not handle an extinguisher properly. Fire can really freak someone out.

On the street a mounted hand extinguisher is always good to have. It should be within easy reach of the driver when he is belted in. Again I would choose Halon for the reasons stated above.

Good luck,

The sysptom you describe is a classic ground problem.

Even though you rebuilt the harness you could still have a bad connection to ground. At each ground point (and there are lots of them) you should disconnet the ground, clean the surface with a wire brush and reconnect the ground. When ever I am wiring a car I use star washers or star connectors. The pionts of the star will bite through any material on the surface that might interfear with the ground connection. Also with the star if you ever have a problem in the future you can back the connection off by half a turn and retighten it for a fresh bite.

Here are some examples of the terminals.

http://trickcableandswitch.com/mm5/me ... S&Category_Code=StarRings

Good luck

For a street car I think you are much better using a "stock" type ignition. If you do have a problem you can go to any autoparts store to repair it.

For racing I would use an aftermarket ignition system. As hard as racing is on a car most people do not put as many miles on thier race cars as a street car.

From a electrical point of view you are always better pulling power from your starter stund than your alternator. Alternators generate a lot of "noise" which can interfear with the operation or damage electrical components.

The Buick V6 would crack between the head bolt and the water jacket in the block. With the Lock And Stitch I could replace the head bolt threads and because of the design it would also hold the crack closed. Saved a lot not having to replace the blocks.

I have used the Lock And Stich to make repairs. I used to repair the head bolt threads when I raced Buick Grand Nationals.

http://www.locknstitch.com/

They have been around for years and make an out standing product.

Wilwood Brakes Group Purchase

SS Performance is offering a group purchase on Wilwood Brakes.

The group purchase is for Wilwood Brake Kits. The kits can be for any make or model that Wilwood makes a kit for.

Any Wilwood product, flex-lines, master cylinders, brake fluid etc., purchased in addition to a brake kit would also be discounted.

Due to Wilwood’s rules I cannot post the discount price or amount. Please contact us by either telephone or e-mail for kit information and pricing. We would prefer telephone so we can discuss your exact needs.

Shipping and handling will be a flat rate $25.00 for the lower 48 states, and yes we will ship anywhere UPS goes.

We must have 10 kits sold to receive the discount.

Credit cards will be accepted for payment. When a order is placed we will take all the shipping information and payment information. No charges will be made until we have 10 orders, Once we have 10 orders we will verify that the brakes are still wanted before the payment is processed. If we do not receive 10 orders we will contact everyone that placed an order to see what they want to do.

Please feel free to contact us with any questions.

We are offering this group purchase until August 31 2009.

Thank you.
SS Peerformance

Just about any chemical stripper will harm the rubber. Chemical strippeers are great but if you don't completely remove them they will cause problems with the new paint.

I am a fan of soda blasting. Will not harm the aluminum and cleanup is a breaze. They mignt beable to do it with the tire on the wheel. Check with someone that does soda blasting.

Good Luck

I run synthetic (Amsoil) in everything I own. Cars, trucks, even the over the road truck. I do not have any leakage problems (well not from the synthetis oil anyway).

I also use it in the trans and differential. In my diesel pick-up we saw a 2 mpg increase when we switched everything over.

Some synthetic oils are designed to cling better to metal parts so they might be better for storage.

Due to the better pour characteristics of synthetic oils it is better for cold starts. It is also cleaner than normal oils so it is less prone to crud build ups.

Synthetics do cost more but they also extend the change interval. This helps reduce the cost. I still change the filter at the suggested interval but change the oil every other filter change.

The synthetics on the market today are greatly improved over what was available years ago.

Good luck

I have a small shop and would do the work my self with the help of some friends.

I have been in the performance business for about 15 years. I have never taken on a project like this but I am looking forward to the challenge

I have looked at the NeveLift kit a little. He uses a 10 bolt. I am looking at using either a 12 bolt or 9-inch. I am also trying to make a kit that would be legal for NHRA Stock Eliminator (to be legal if would need to be the 12 bolt). Part of the goal is to develop a package that would not require any modification to the stock mounting points. This would allow the car to be returned to the stock suspension with no problems.

Not being real familar with the Vette suspension is requiring me to learn quite a bit but that is part of the fun.

I will be running an automatic.

For the rear I will be developing a solid axel rear end. This is to help with suspension tunability and gear swaps.

For the front I am looking into coils overs.

For power we are thinking about swapping in a LS series motor. I have seen several LS7's for sale. I figure we need to make about 800 hp.

I hadn't thought about cooling issues. I had figured I would need a bigger radiator.

Thanks for the replys.

Maybe I should have waited for an 88 but the price on the 87 was too good to pass up.

We are looking into making this a race only car with the intention of running on the salt at Bonneville.

When we are done there won't be much left stock in the drive train or suspension.

Just trying to live out a childhood dream.

Intsead of using 2 heaters you might want to check out a company call ARC out of Daytona Fla.

http://archeat.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?

They make a heater for 15lb NOS bottles. Using 1 large heater would most likely draw less current than 2 smaller ones.

They also make a pressure switch that turns the heater on and off to provide a more constant pressure.

I am not associated with ARC but I am inpressed with thier products.

If you call them ask for Carl he is the owner.

I just got my first Vette (87)

I am wondering what are the differences in the suspension for the various years.

Wilwood offers front brakes for the 88-96. What is different with the 84-87 front spindle/suspension and the 88-96?

I have heard the rear suspension is narrower in the 84-87 than the 88-96.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.