hcbph wrote:
I just finished upgrading my rear suspension the other month, but I'm assuming yours was replacing the bushings. Unless you have access to a 4 post lift (which I don't) I used some 7" ramps I have and put the rear wheels on them before doing final tightening. It gave me enough room to get under there, having first removed the rear tire carrier.

A couple of other things I did was first every bolt I could remove and get to I drilled for a cotter key and got some slotted (Castle) nuts (Grade 5 was the best I could find) and cotter keyed them after torqueing to spec. I also got some shims in case I had to do some adjusting to get the hole and nut to line up.

Once you get everything done, get a 4 wheel alignment, it made a world of difference on mine. I was very specific in recording various settings before I started and put pieces to those settings when done. Even then the alignment made it run that much better.

Matatk wrote:
Which bolts do you need to get to?

Matatk wrote:
Drop the car down on the wheels and then tighten everything to spec.

Matatk wrote:
Drop the car down on the wheels and then tighten everything to spec.

BillH wrote:
Quote:

95vette wrote:
That sure sounds like the throw out bearing is going out, but maybe not. In normal driving it should just be sitting there doing nothing, so why is it only acting up after driving for a while? Getting hot? That could only be if it is not fully releasing or binding on the trans input shaft.

Yea and possibily the bearing is touching the fork once in a while. You can checl for feel by pushing the clutch in with your hand until you feel resistance, does it vibrate then?

To check your slave cyl, find a level place where the car won't roll. Clutch in (trans in 1st), hold to for 30 seconds or more. If the car starts to move even a little, something's leaking (by the o-rings).

bogus wrote:
Well... failing slave could explain it.

The fluid level is up, so that's a non-issue - for now!

I am wondering about the fork/throwout bearing relationship. If the fork slipped out of position, it would make noises, but not when the clutch is engaged.

So... throwout bearing sounds likely. It could be early signs of dying.

Jeffvette wrote:
Quote:

jimmers wrote:
I can't read or clear my SIR codes. When I ground out terminal "K" nothing happens. The INFL REST light does not flash.

I replaced my faulty DERM this spring, and it solved my seat belt and INFL REST light problem. Last week the INFL REST light came back on. The airbag light is still off.

Any idea why I cant read the codes? I read the codes on the CCM and ECM just to test my jumper wire and they work fine.

Thanks!

Just because the light is on, does not mean there is a code. It is often a indicator of another fault. In this case following the diag tree will walk you down.

You either have a bad Derm or a short in a wire to the IP Harness.


BTW, what did you do with your old Derm?

Matatk wrote:
Are you grounding the K terminal to the seat frame? I've read that's where you should ground it. Something to try. Also, I read on CAC that a bad fuse can cause the light to remain lit.

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/k ... t+Indicator+Lamp+Stays+On

I'm not much help with the newer style dashes, so maybe Andy has some more advice.

Matthew

bogus wrote:

I think I nailed it when I felt the master wasn't assembled correctly. And no matter how he bled the system, that problem would have existed regardless. As it is, bench bleeding found it before putting it on the car.

Matatk wrote:
I've never had to bleed one so I'm no help. Here are a couple of short articles on it - any good info in there?

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/c ... s/0509sc_bench/index.html

http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/MC_bench-bleed.htm

Matthew

Matatk wrote:
Sorry I am no help when it comes to air bags. All I can say is that if you need to replace the DERM good luck! Part # is 10094618 and GM discontinued them. You can find a used one around $500

http://www.whiteracingproducts.com/in ... duct_info&products_id=846

(this link they are out, but just for reference
http://www.corvetterecycling.com/product_p/10094618-1806.htm

Also, I think the derm from 90 or 91 will work, but from what I've read once an airbag is deployed you must replace this piece, hence it is disposable and in high demand.

Good luck,

Matthew

bogus wrote:
Call vette2vette.com. I am willing to bet Jason has some airbags and DERMS in just fine condition. Not all wrecks deploy the airbags...

Matatk wrote:
Quote:

jimmers wrote:
Well it turns out my fuel filter was the culprit. Something inside broke and when under pressure blocked the line. Again thanks for everyones help!

Thanks for the update! Good to know the solution to problem for future reference.

Matthew

Blade_1 wrote:
Strange... Seems like a fuel pressure test pedal down gauge taped to the windshield would have revealed insufficient pressure / blockage of fuel flow enrichment.

Glad you got it runnin'...

crash wrote:
ahhh morale of the story when replacing fuel pump always replace fuel filter wwe do all the time at the shop

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

jimmers wrote:
Thanks for your help! The fuel pressure does drop to 0 psi before the light goes. I think I narrowed it down, but I'd love to know for sure. Are there any other tests I can do to know for sure?

If it was a no start you could do a volume test. I think you either have a failing pump, strainer, filter, etc. I'd replace all since the cost is so low and get on with it.

-- Joe

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

jimmers wrote:
I hooked up my 12v light to the fuel pump source again and started the car.
The light will turn on while the car is running. When the car stalls the light will remain lit, and turn off about 2 seconds later. So I guess the pump is getting a good 12v source.
Seeing as how the pump dies before the light, I can assume that the fuel pump itself is bad. Correct?

If the fuel pressure is dropping BEFORE the light goes out, then I'd guess the pump is failing.

I had a boat once, that would run for a minute or two and the engine was die. Mouse in the fuel tank kept getting sucked into the pickup. Fuel pressure would drop, engine stall, then the mouse would float away from the pickup and I'd be able to restart the engine. Food for thought.

Anyhow. if the fuel pressure IS in fact dropping it's pump related. Rule out ECM, FP relay, etc since you have good power. If the fuel pressure is NOT dropping, i'd move my bet to ignition.

-- Joe

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

jimmers wrote:


The fuel pressure and car dies. The fuel pressure will go down to 0, and then the car dies. But right after the car dies the fuel pressure goes back up to 45, then I can start the car again.

Well... When the car dies the ECM energizes the fuel pump so it re-primes. The oil pressure switch keeps the fuel pump energized as long as their is oil pressure, and the ECM keeps it energized as long as their is reference pulses.

It could be a bad fuel pump, though they normally just die.

The drop in fuel pressure suggests the injectors are in fact firing. Since they are firing, you MUST be getting distributor reference pulses since that is how they fire.


I wish I could get my hands on the car.

-- Joe

anesthes wrote:
The fuel pressure dies or the car dies?

How long does it take to fall when you prime it? (key on)?

Mekanic wrote:
If your pressure is leaking down after priming the rails then its either a stuck injector or the check valve on the pump

Mekanic wrote:
no, you should keep pressure LONG after shutting off the car, or priming the rails with the engine off.

By LONG after, I mean I've been sprayed by the schrader valve after the car has been off for over a week

Mekanic wrote:
If your pressure is leaking down after priming the rails then its either a stuck injector or the check valve on the pump

CentralCoaster wrote:
Personally I think many of the replacement injectors are louder. Perhaps it's because the injectors are a bit longer and bottom out against the intake base which makes it transmit more noise. A fix for this is putting washers between the fuel rail and base. This is especially a problem with some of the aftermarket intake baseplates. Also I've heard of this binding the injector housings up and causing them to stick open or shut.

Keep in mind everytime the injectors shut, the fuel is still flowing towards them, and it hits this now dead end, and slams into it and makes a pressure spike. This tranlates to noise and vibration at the injectors and fuel lines. If the injectors aren't bottomed out, they should be cushioned a bit from this shockwave (water hammer) by slight movement of the orings.