Why add possible failure points in your brake system? Speed bleeders are an attractive but entirely unnecessary product -- very much a created need.

Also, I appreciate the notion of keeping your brake pedal within normal range of motion but you should be sure that you don't short change yourself. Push the pedal as far as you will when you are coming into that hairpin turn after reaching 105 on the straight. If you have corrosion in that part of the travel, you have problems anyway.

Just my opinion.

Can the door be opened and closed? Did you sight down the bottom side looking from behind the front wheel to the back?

If the sill looks good, then I wouldn't worry about it at all.

What about rust stain removal? Is there anything that works well?

How can you tell if used heads have been skimmed/flattened in the past? I just picked up a pair of inexpensive 113 heads and am curious whether I can determine if any material has been removed during the life of the heads. Is there a measurement that I can use?

Thanks for the advice everyone. I did order a new one in spite of my leak being of the type described by CFI-EFI. I ordered the new one for two reasons. First, my cooling system was full of stop leak mud. It took me several flushes and refills to clear what could be cleared that way. When I was cleared, the heater core leak appeared -- probably why the stop leak had been added. So, I suspect that the radiator may be, to some unknown extent, clogged. I know that they can be cleaned but that brings me to the second reason. The last time I dealt with a radiator repair place was a bad experience on several levels. Turned me off.

So, I ordered the cheap all aluminum radiator. On that other list, you can see my related post and Tom DeWitt's claim that they are using his photo and my report that I talked with the business owner this afternoon and got encouraging and discouraging information. The owner claims that it is on the way and I will report on it when it arrives. He said that it is a single row radiator even though the ad describes a two row and he denied using Tom DeWitt's photo. I'm not sure how big a deal that is, I think that most of us lift the ocassional photo. But it does reflect a lack of honesty on someone's part, I suspect on Radiators US part but I have nothing more than competing claims.

The radiator is reported to be tig welded, all aluminum and to have a lifetime warrenty. I'll provide more information when it arrives.

You didn't provide your plan so this may be premature. How is it going?

I did mine over a long weekend in bursts of activity. I was also able to use my younger, thinner son's help. The only advice that I would add, if you haven't reached the stage yet, is to check for leaks before installing. I used a thin inner tube and clamps to put about 15 lbs of pressure in the system and held the unit under water. I also verified that the method worked when I tested the old core that I replaced. One other thing, I used a photo of the cover provided by Agent86 and it really helped me find the upper, driver's side screw.

If yours is installed and not tested, I'm sure that it will be good. The odds are tremendously in your favor.

Don't you think that the people tinting your window screwed it up? Neat trick making you wait two days to test the window. Who is to say what it was like when it left the shop?

I was very concerned that I might fail this time. My biggest concern was engine temperature. It is very cool here today by local standards (40F in Sacramento, CA) and the garage is wide open. My car was running at about 180F. I was afraid that might push my HC too high. The car passed with all numbers way under. BTW, our test is done at 15 and 25MPH.

We also have a new "Evap Test" that I had forgotten about and therefore didn't check at home. Did OK there too.

Just wanted to let people know that you can pass running lower temperatures.