Ok heres what I got: Black 86 Corvette. I have right now 5% tint all the way around and on the top of the windshield, underbody indigo neons, upgraded foglights, xenon colored headlights, dropped front end, ZR1 Chrome rims,.......painated calipers. Exaust and chrome Tips Chrome edition hood/gas door emblems, Chrome rear plate that surrounds the license plate, Chrome front plate with corvette emblem on the front bumper.

I am about to start on the new projects: High rise hood, low profile spoiler, Big mouth Air Dam, Drop the rear end, Drilled/Slotted rotors, Led talights, and have the whole car "professionally" Compounded buffed and waxed to help remove all the faded colors in the paint and fine scratches. Atleast it will help SOME. I hope.... What else is there. I am NOT interested in the later model front or rear end bumpers........Anyone else have any other ideas??? Interior is already been changed. Thanks. Not worried about under the hood either because its been worked on as well. Nice and clean with a little chrome and dress up parts. Oh yea, and I am getting 2 A pillar gauges.........Cant wait to hear some more exterior mods!!!

is it original paint? If so, I doubt the buffing will fix the discoloured parts. Especially if they are on the bumper covers.

If you are getting a new hood, I would consider shooting the entire car with fresh paint.

As for appearance... I would'nt bother with drilled rotors. If you drive the car at all, they will crack. Slotted is fine.

A few thoughts:

... polishing the aluminum on the suspension.
... treating the inner fenders with a truck bed liner material.
... cleaning up/painting the front frame rails.

My only concern, all the bling will start to overload the car... I would be careful and not OD.

How about blackout kits for the front and rear, should be a natural with your black car and dark windows.

Obviously this car is yours and you can do as you please with it, but i have to question the A-pillar gauges, what are they for? To me it is a rice burner thing, and i reckon it may just make a C4 look alittle too overdone. Id have to see the rest of the interior to know how it would look though.

Im not sure where youre putting a low profile spoiler, do you mean on the rear deck? These look alright on some earlier models, my 87 had 1 on it:



And also blacked out lights:

A pillar gauge is for fuel pressure and a tranny temp. My old transmission died because it was loosing fluid slowly and over heated. Well thats what the shop told me. All I know is that it died. That spoiler on your car seems to high. I meant a little lower....the spoiler is still a maybe. It wouldnt really help unless I am on the autobahn doing 150. A new coat of paint for the whole car is like 6000!

Thats an outrageous price for painting. You can wet sand it and get it ready yourself, that will save you abit.

I can tell ya though, that spoiler on my 87 id make a noticable difference at highway speed, it wasnt a huge difference, but it was slightly tighter in the rear with that on there. It had a fair angle on it compared to the lower spoilers.

I guess if the gauges will serve a purpose to put you more at ease, go for it, although losing fluid will probably cause the trans to be damaged before youll see it on the gauge!!

I thought six thousand was way to much to! I even said DONT paint the under panels on the side because they stay dirty and is not worth it....I wonder what it would have been if I did get those painted...Thats why I was thinking of having it professionally compounded for around 400 dollars......Instead of a gauge, what about a tranny cooler? Anyone have any personal experience with one?

Not sure if this will work as well in your 86 but I found a cooler in the Jegs catalog that was almost perfect for my 93. I installed a high stall converter and figured some additional cooling was a good idea. The cooler I picked is the heat sink style, Jegs own brand, part number 555-60350 ($65) it seemed to be about the right dimensions for the location I thought looked the best, just forward of the power steering cooler.
It is almost a “bolt in” using the same mounting bolts as the existing PS cooler. I did elongate the two upper holes in the trans cooler bracket using a rotary file in a die grinder and trimmed off one corner to clear the right lower bolt on the PS cooler , I drilled one more hole in the left side trans cooler bracket so it is attached with two of the existing PS cooler bolts and one additional bolt supplied with the Jegs cooler.
The two 3/8” fittings end up perfectly located near the return line from the radiator. (the return line is the one at the bottom of the radiator, and connects to the top fitting on the transmission). I cut and flared the return line and plumbed the cooler in with 11/32” high temperature transmission hose attached with fuel injection style hose clamps, regular screw clamps will work as well. A 4 foot length of such hose is available from Jegs part number 259-13003 ($9) the installation probably uses half of that.
If you are looking to add a transmission cooler to a C4, it doesn’t get much easier than this, pictures below. Note in the view from the rear that it is directly behind the cooling fans.

I still cant figure out what happened but heres the whole story. Ok My car had 120,000 miles on it. Original transmission. Me and my dad did a flush of the tranny replaced the fluid and filter and we dropped the pan and cleaned it out and i cut my finger because a little shrivel of metal was in there and there was a magnet in the corner and I had never messed with a transmission. I was like maybe because its 20+ yrs old....ya no....re did it all and it seemed smoother. Whether it was just me or the actual cleaning did help, I honestly cant say. Then about 3 months later I was driving and my car started smoking horribly and we looked underneath when I got home and it looked like tranny fluid was dripping out. HUH? Checked it and it was still right at the marker...um ok? Wiped it down and then it did it again with more smoke. Checked it again and it was a little low but cars burn oil so I figured, it might just be burning a little fluid. Again I was doing good, and I was on my way home from school and I started going and it locked in first gear. It was redlineing and when I let go of the accerlator it was poppingl ike mad. I drove it 10 minutes till I got home. I was trying to go real slow so I wouldn't harm the motor. Took it to the shop next day and we had it towed because it wouldnt shift still. We tried shifting it manualy at home but it was a no go. The guy said get a transmission from a junk yard....Well whats the chance that a junk yard will have a specific transmission and the guy said a Astro Vans transmission will fit. So we got one of those with 80,000 miles on it. Put it in there and it died on us from getting to hot is what the SHOP SAID....Right...We kept the original transmission and we took it back up there and said why was it leaking. He said your seal blew out from when the pressure or something....Im not sure.....and it was blowing past the seal. Um ok....whatever you say.....He rebuilt my original tranny for 1000 dollars and said that stock it had 6 clutches in the clutch pack and he made it nine...Is this true? Also, he said that since the transmission died, he put in a new torque converter and said it was a 2600 stall converter....I havent heard of a 2600 stall but the car is still going fine so I know he did something right. He made a warranty on it to that hed fix it if we had any problems for a year. No problems. He also said he enlarged the seal hole so it cant blow out anymore. Said it was a problem for the Early C4s....This is why I wanted to get a gauge so I could watch the temp....Also, a tranny cooler does not seem like such a bad idea either. It's no guarantee that it will save it but hey atleast its something. Never know.. What do you guys think about the way he rebuilt my tranny?

It would probably be best to open another thread with Transmission in the subject line to get answers to your questions. Pete K is the resident expert and may be able to help, but no one can "go back in time" to figure out what occurred if you don't know. The parts installed when rebuilding the transmission are just part of the story, the skill of the builder is far more important.
You can get a fair idea of converter stall speed by holding the brake hard and flooring the throttle, the highest RPM reached by the engine before the car moves should be the stall speed. Do not do this for more than a few seconds because the transmission will overheat quickly.
The factory converter stalls at less than 1500 RPM so it should be easy to tell if yours now has a 2600. An auxiliary cooler is frequently advised with a higher stall converter. Good luck.

ToptechX6 how effective is that cooler mate? Can you use your TECH 1 to read the transmission temps? I can view mine through Datamaster, but i dont know about earlier units.

No temp sensor in my trans from the factory as far as I know, but will take a look next time I have the Tech1 hooked up. I don't recall seeing a value listed for trans temp previously.
Of course since I never monitored it previously I now have nothing to compare present temps to anyway!