Recently I replaced my Power Brake Booster and when I reconnected all, in reverse order of how I took it apart, I find I have no Cruise Control now. I thought it may have something to do with the connection to the brake pedal but all is in place as it should be. I did have to remove out of the way the Cruise Control Server & bracket to install the new booster.

Three questions such as; 1) will I need to replace the Vacum Release Switch on the brake pedal or 2) the vacuum check valve or 3) the vacuum storage tank?

I could live without the Cruise Control, but I prefer to set it when I am on the Freeway so as to not get a speeding ticket. I hate to watch the speedometer when I drive and easier to have the cruise set so that I am "not over the limit."

IT sounds vacuum related.

The vacuum hoses to the cruise control are prone to wearing out. Heat does it... kills'm.

I would start there, then check the hoses to the vacuum canister in the left headlight bucket area.

IIRC, the switch on the pedal is integrated to the brake lights, I would have to check for sure, but I don't think that would be an issue.

Take a pair of vise grips or a clamp and squeeze the vac line to the brake pedal shut. Then on a test drive if the cruise works you know where to look next. Of course be carefull as the cruise won't turn off when you hit the brakes. Mine turned out to be a defective electric cicuit in the brake pedal switch, brake lights worked fine but the cruise side of the switch was bad.

Just not to miss anything, take a look at the check valve with the 3 hoses to it under the plastic cover on the right side of the engine. Give it a good visual, make sure it is not cracked broken and look at the hoses also. Look at the hose as it runs back to the cruise.

The other adage, always check where you were. I'm thinking possible if the actuator rod from the booster was not set correctly, it may keep the brake pedal from returning to its proper resting position hence not letting the cruise switch (for the pedal) close. The cruise may not me turning on because if the switch is open the cruise will not energize electrically. And it may not have anything to do with a vacuum related problem. I would look under the dash at the pedal and make sure the switch is contacted and look at the connector too. Check anything that might restrict the free action of the pedal that would inhibit the return of it fully.

Having said that, make sure the clerance is not excessive. When you set the actuator rod, it needs about 1/16 -1/8 inch clearance to the master cylinder for contact. You need the room for heat expansion when all gets hot especially in the summer. Jack a front wheel up and check for wheel dragging when setting the rod

There is both an electrical and a physical vacuum cruise kill on the pedal(s).

You likely disturbed the switch adjustments when you where under there getting at the booster firewall nuts. Re-adjust both switches properly, go for a test drive, and report back.

Automatic trans:




Manual trans: