All Posts (86PACER)
Re: Head gaskets?! |
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Guru Newb
 
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What paint did you use on the headers? Is it holding up?
Posted on: 2011/3/18 3:52
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Re: Cold compression test? |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
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Why exactly are you pulling the heads?
Posted on: 2011/2/1 22:33
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Re: Oil leak at head gasket? |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Quote:
Repeat that to the front and back edges of your intake manifold to double check your sealer bead integrity. Again check the distributor shaft hole at the base of the distributor and that oil pressure switch back there. Did you install a new paper "O" gasket on the distributor shaft hole between intake and distributor? I still would not rule out the valve cover gaskets since you can't run a finger along the bottom of the edge against the intake side unless you just installed those brand new when you did the intake and used a quality rubber set such as Fel-Pro not shitty cork ones. I don't trust cork gaskets for anything. All I use is rubber Fel-Pro. Your other option as I mentioned is UV leak detector dye. Doesn't the L98 oil fill cap have an o-ring that seals against the valve cover? I have not used valve covers with a cap for years so I don't remember what the stock cap had. But I've seen these become flat and brittle and leak on many cars and all it took was a new o-ring (or new cap if seal is not sold seperately) to stop the leak past the cap.
Posted on: 2011/1/23 0:13
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Re: Shocked with Rockauto.com |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
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Rock Auto is a top notch vendor.
Posted on: 2011/1/22 11:26
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Re: Reinstalled distributer and engine won't start |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Quote:
Ok. If it runs on it's own with EST removed and dies as soon as you reconnect there is a timing issue involved. I had a very similar problem that drove me crazy. Is this an old balancer? Check your balancer for outer ring slippage. In all likely hood you are setting timing and TDC position using a balancer timing mark that has slipped and is no longer where it's supposed to be and out of sync with the motor. Use something to set the #1 piston to true physical TDC on the compression stroke without using the timing marks on the balancer this time. Once you have #1 at true physical TDC on the compression stroke see where the balancer mark is lining up at. If the balancer is good and has no slippage it should be pointing right on the deep notch (Zero) of the timing tab. If it's not pointing there your balancer timing mark is slipped and that's the source of your timing problem. Paint your own new timing mark and set timing to that one and see how the car runs now. A likely scenario if the balancer is old is that your balancer has slipped more out of place since the last time you had used it to set timing properly before the engine teardown. It happened to me and drove me F'n crazy till I figured that was the problem. The big clue for me was that with the EST unplugged the car ran better, and worse as soon as I reconnected it, sometimes even stalling. So double check your balancer for slippage and verify that your balancer timing mark is still in sync with the motor and has not moved.
Posted on: 2011/1/22 11:03
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Re: Suspect leaking head gasket. What do U think? |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Quote:
Stop theorizing and guessing. Just get a Block Tester with Liquid Test Dye and you'll know within 5 minutes if the coolant portion of your head gaskets are really blown or not. You can find these for purchase or rental at certain parts stores. It's highly accurate, and it's easier and faster than any of the methods given above for testing this part of the head gasket. Autozone has this one that works great: The Block Tester is $25 OEM Part# 27145  The Test Dye is $8 OEM Part# 25739  How to use one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QA7KVQq9vKA
Posted on: 2011/1/22 10:39
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Re: Cruise Control & Power Brake Booster Problems |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
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There is both an electrical and a physical vacuum cruise kill on the pedal(s).
You likely disturbed the switch adjustments when you where under there getting at the booster firewall nuts. Re-adjust both switches properly, go for a test drive, and report back. Automatic trans:  Manual trans: 
Posted on: 2011/1/22 10:07
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Re: Oil leak at head gasket? |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
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Quote:
Shit man, you can forget about looking for a replacement engine over this oil leak. You just don't have a full understanding of what's really going on here. I 100% guarantee that your L98 head gaskets are NOT leaking motor oil between the head and block to the outside because they CANNOT. It just isn't happening. A SBC cannot and will not leak oil past the head gaskets between the head and block for two good reason. First the location of the oil drain back holes in the block and head gasket make that an impossible scenario. And secondly as mentioned these drain back holes are under no oil pressure. Read this: http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/p ... id=3/mode=prod/prd119.htm Instead you probably failed to do a good job of sealing the front and back chinawalls of the intake manifold and block. The only sealer I trust for this task is Permatex Right Stuff. You need to lay a continous bead of sealer with no air pockets or breaks. Gasket surfaces should be prepped, dry, and immaculate. Don't even think about using those shitty cork strips instead of sealer that some gasket sets come with. Your sealer beads should look like this front and back:  In order to get a thick bead like this out of the Right Stuff can you need to remove or not use the supplied screw on plastic tip. Instead get it straight out of the can. The sealer must overlap both the top and bottom sides of each corner of the intake gasksets. Then you need make sure to set the intake base straight down on the first shot and not shift it around to align the bolt holes once you set it down while the sealer is still tacky. If you're off start over. What I do is straddle over the engine. I have one foot on each front tire and I bend at the waist as I lower the intake straight down. I am able to see from above the aligment of the intake bolt holes as I lower it so that I get it right on the first shot without having to shift it around once I set it down. Use a known good calibrated torque wrench to torque the bolts to spec in sequence. Use thread sealer on the bolts. If you undertorque them with an out of cal wrench you're going to have leaks. So look at your valve covers, front and back of the intake manifold, the distributor hole, and possibly even that oil pressure switch on the back of the block against the firewall for the source. The oil leak comes from up top and it runs down the front or back of the block (or both) along that diagonal parting line of the head and block. It then continues to seep along the same parting line between the head and the block ending up near the spark plugs to make it look as if it's leaking from between there. I've seen it first hand on my car. It was originating from my intake manifold ends. You can also add dedicated UV leak detector dye to the motor oil and pinpoint the source with a UV light.
Posted on: 2011/1/22 7:09
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Re: Do you have saggy headlight buckets? |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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There's an easier way. Simply disconnect the 3 wire headlight motor connector (gray connector on mine) while both lights are up. This will leave them both in the up position automatically at all times and then the dash pull knob will serve as an on/off switch just for the lights themselves.
Posted on: 2010/12/31 6:49
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Re: Reinstalled distributer and engine won't start |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Quote:
That pretty much sums it up. #1 TDC on the compression stroke. If you get it TDC on the exhaust you'll obviously be 180 degrees off. The fact that it runs at all rules out that it's 180 off. The motor was probably moved while the distributor was out after it was marked. Double check your plug wire routing on both ends. On the cap it should follow the firing order clockwise. Did you get it running afterall? 
Posted on: 2010/12/25 0:50
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Re: Can't Find the leak |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Quote:
That's one of the great aspects about it. Another is the fact that the motor is off so you can hear any hissing from other small leaks you would not have found otherwise. If the pressure needle does not stay rock steady, you know you're not done and have not found all of the leaks.
Posted on: 2010/12/24 22:19
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Re: Check out this new MAF sensor for the C4... |
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Guru Newb
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Nice. Looks quite substantial.
Posted on: 2010/12/24 22:09
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Re: Power Steering Issues Continue |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Does sounds like the rack. When you replace a rack or pump you should always flush all old fluid out of the rest of the system, hoses, and reservoir to avoid contamination of the new components with old dirty fluid before you install the new part. Pump new clean fluid through the system till it comes out clean on the other end. I use a simple hand transfer pump. Did you do this?
You can also try half of a $10 bottle of Seafoam "Trans Tune" before you replace the rack. Despite the name it's also for use on PS systems. It's a cleaner. Hard spots in the steering are often clogged, restricted, or sticking valves in the rack and this stuff is sometimes able to free them up. 
Posted on: 2010/12/24 21:57
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Re: Installing 87 Corvette Power Steering Pump Pulley |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Done bragging?
My point being that it's possible that the kit the OP was told was only the puller might just be the #27031 kit that has both, which he can first verify with a simple phone call. If that's the case he can walk in and either rent or buy it outright for $30.
Posted on: 2010/12/24 15:57
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Re: Installing 87 Corvette Power Steering Pump Pulley |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
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Well how convenient that you just so happen to live next to one of only about three of those in the nation.
Posted on: 2010/12/24 15:28
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Re: Installing 87 Corvette Power Steering Pump Pulley |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
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Quote:
They also sell every tool they rent wise one. The OEM tool is $30 and if it's not in stock they can get it in about 1 or 2 days with free shipping which is better than going online and waiting two weeks.
Posted on: 2010/12/24 15:19
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Re: Installing 87 Corvette Power Steering Pump Pulley |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
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Doesn't make sense. I've rented it from autozone and used it myself. It's a puller/installer kit in one made by OEM. It's not two seperate puller and installer kits. Oreilly Advanced and some Pepboys also have tool rentals. OEM Part# 27031 
Posted on: 2010/12/24 15:01
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Re: Can't Find the leak |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Just pressurize the cooling system with a pressure tester. Some leaks won't reveal themselves until they are under sufficient pressure. With the system pressurized you'll be able to either see or hear the leak(s) and have the engine off. And you can verify the pressure holds steady and no additional leaks are present elsewhere afterwards.
I have found waterpumps that will only leak when you wobble the pulley by hand with the belt off. When using a pressure tester don't exceed the radiator cap's psi rating to be safe. In this case that's about 16 psi. If you don't own one places like Advanced Auto, Oreilly, and Autozone rent them with refundable deposits which makes it ideal for seldom use. You can also buy the tools outright. The Autozone unit comes with an adapter to also pressure test the radiator cap itself. I bought my own pressure tester since I find myself using it rather often. Great tool for finding coolant leaks. 
Posted on: 2010/12/24 14:09
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Re: What's a good brake power bleeder that'll do everything? |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Quote:
You can order them through Vatozone at $18.99 a pair and free ship. Quote:
That's the first thing I thought also. But if you look closely in the video you can see the air bubbles and clean fluid exit but none of the dark dirty fluid in the jar goes back up into the line as he pumps it out. I wonder if the jar sitting on the ground as the low point instead of the high has anything to do with it.
Posted on: 2010/12/24 0:39
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Re: What's a good brake power bleeder that'll do everything? |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
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I picked up a trick from a 43 year mechanic on a stupid effective DIY bleeder that works on any car with bleeder valves. You don't really need all that fancy shit if you simply want to be able to bleed brakes quickly by yourself and without speed bleeders.
Here's a video on how to make one like it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvyztDFHhaY The fluid in the jar effectively acts as the check valve. It allows air to be purged out of the system when you press the pedal down, yet prevents air from being sucked back into the line. So you basically crack the bleeder open and pump the pedal solo. The jar must be vented so punch a small hole in the lid somewhere. Thread sealant or teflon tape should be used on the bleeder threads instead of grease. As far as bleeder valves... The Earl's "Solo-Bleed" seems to be a superior desing over the traditional "Speed Bleeder" desing that must rely on thread sealant to keep air from being sucked in past the threads during the bleeding process. And they cost about the same. With the "Speed Bleeder" design, any air that gets past your thread sealant is able to go around and behind the check valve, bypassing it all together and enter the system when you let off the pedal. This is further evident by the fact that they carry and sell their own sealer to reapply on the threads of their bleeders periodically. In contrast the Earl's desing has a spring loaded plunger sitting directly on the caliper surface and does not rely on thread sealant, effectively doing away with that shortcoming. No air can go around and behind it in any way because everything is to the front of it, unlike the "Speed Bleeder" design that leaves a potential back door path past the threads and around the valve.  
Posted on: 2010/12/23 10:20
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Re: 89 Dash cluster lights |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Saw these "Bulb Pliers" at Harbor Freight the other day.
 http://www.harborfreight.com/bulb-pliers-65520.html These have cushioned jaws and appear that they would make pulling the cluster bulbs from the front easier. I've gotten away with using my needle nose pliers wraped with tape to pull them from the front but it wasn't that easy. I think these would have probably worked a lot better.
Posted on: 2010/12/23 9:18
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Re: Bench bleeding rebuilt brake master cylinder? |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Quote:
Correct.
Posted on: 2010/11/30 2:00
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Re: 89 Dash cluster lights |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Cluster removal depends on the condition of the existing plastic bulb holders. These things get brittle with the heat. I've gotten lucky a few times and was able to pull out and push in a new bulb from the front reusing the existing holder from the driver seat.
Other times the plastic bulb holders are already broken or break trying to because they are brittle. If that happens you're left with no choice but to pull the cluster, open it, and twist the new holder with bulb in place from behind. The hardest part will be getting the two cluster circuit boards carefully seperated. The pin connector was f'n tight on mine.
Posted on: 2010/9/29 1:54
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Re: Head gasket leaking |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Definately not the head gasket.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omi1ZRJYKDg For the front and rear china walls of the block you want to lay a healthy bead (about the same width as the china wall) of Right Stuff across and overlap onto the heads by about 1". You bead should be continuous with no breaks or air bubbles (can farts). You must remove the screw on nozzle to get a thick bead out of the can. Some Fel-Pro sets come with cork strips for this. They suck megaballs and should be tossed in the trash. Plus they are too thick and won't allow you get the intake bolts holes aligned to start the threads. Your sealing surfaces should be immaculate. I like using a razor tip scraper to get the surfaces real clean and brake cleaner for the final wipe down:  Next while it's still tacky lay the intake gaskets down. Now add more Right Stuff overlapping only on the top uncovered edges of the gaskets with the rest of the bead. You want to have an overlapping bead both underneath and above both the edges of the intake gaskets at the front and rear china walls for a reliable seal. Set the intake down exactly or start over. Don't set down then shift it around to align the holes. Finish with a pressure test of the system to find any remaining leaks (I would have done this before teardown to see what else was leaking). Autozone rents this unit which works perfectly if you're cheap and don't want to buy one. When pumping don't exceed the radiator cap's psi rating (16 lbs). 
Posted on: 2010/9/28 23:57
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Re: [1987 parts] Free to Good Home |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Quote:
Same here. I've never had it. It was too much of a pain in the ass to install/remove so I left it out. I go to the same place every smog.
Posted on: 2010/9/27 7:57
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Re: Failed my smog inspection... |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
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Any one time that you fail by about 2-3 times the max limit of that particular vehicle apperently. A new field labeled "GP" appeared on my sheet in place of "average" as seen in the before readings. Still had to pay the smog fee there, and again at a Gold Shield. Like you said, they get you coming and going.
This was the same place back in '03 where I had to deal with some clueless dipshit who tried to fail the vette visually, claiming that I had capped off a fitting on my original unmodified air diverter valve which came that way from the factory.
Posted on: 2010/4/5 9:09
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Re: AIR pump eliminator advice |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Quote:
How dare they.. 
Posted on: 2010/4/5 7:25
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Re: Source for 17mm hex bit? |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Quote:
I agree. I bought the Craftsman 17mm allen because they didn't have it in a socket. Didn't think Autozone would have had this so I didn't bother checking there.
Posted on: 2010/4/4 23:04
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Re: Failed my smog inspection... |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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You forgot to install those hydraulics vato.
 My daily driver with 290K failed for the first time as a "Gross Polluter". That earned me a permanent spot on their shit list as long as I own the car. I can only test at one of these from here on. There are only a few of them and their speciality is being extra pricks about everything. Fixed it myself and these where the results. http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/2474/smoga.jpg You would think that with these kind of numbers on a car with 290K on the original motor it would shut them up for a while, or get them off my back. I can no longer use my shop of choice that I've been using since '04.  Could have been worse though. Here they used to switch you from biannual smog to yearly from what they told me. Stopping the exempt roll up and making it fixed at '75 pissed of a lot a lot of people for sure. In contrast when I lived in NC, all they cared about was that my horn, wipers, and turn signals worked. CA has even come up with some crazy remote checkpoint machines to set up roadside at random locations in order to catch people. Crazy bastards. http://www.smogtips.com/remote_sensing.cfm
Posted on: 2010/4/3 17:45
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Re: Harmonic Balancer Swap and Setting Timing (Pics) |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
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Wanted to add some info here.
For reference, the installer is Part# 27144 I rented it from Atuzone along with the puller. Your local store didn't have it? I think Advanced also has the same tool rental program.
Posted on: 2009/11/26 11:45
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Re: Timing on the '86 |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Quote:
I paid about $60 for a real nice Craftsman light at Sears. It doubles as a usefull spark checker on no start conditions. If your balancer is slipped it's not something you want to put off. It's going to butt up against the timing cover eventually and begin to grind. When it does it's only a matter of time till it eats clean through it, adding metal shavings in the oil, and rewarding you with a big ass oil leak. By this time you probably already circulated some of it through the motor. All for a $50 part. And if you do have to replace it, Autozone rents both the puller and and installer basically for free with a refundable deposit. You get your money back as long as you don't trash their tool after using it. I have another one to change in a Camaro. Damn thing is already grinding on the timing cover. This one went unheard because the grinding noise was drowned out by the noise of the engine running. I assume you don't know how to tell. You should not be able to see any part of the balancer through the the hole in the timing tab. On a good balancer, the tip of the timing tab teeth should be suspended halfway over the balancer ring as in the first pic. You can use these as reference points to tell slippage. If you crawl under the car and see almost no space between the balancer and the timing cover, it's slipped. You should be able to fit your fingers behind it easily. Good: [URL=http://img526.imageshack.us/i/balancer1.jpg/][IMG]http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/1728/balancer1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Bad: This one is already grinding against the timing cover. [URL=http://img222.imageshack.us/i/balancer3.jpg/][IMG]http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/307/balancer3.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Posted on: 2009/11/25 7:24
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Re: 700R4 - 4L60 Build Up Inside |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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When it's time for the torque converter to be installed, do you prefer to install it empty or do you pre-fill it.
Posted on: 2009/11/24 10:49
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Re: Timing on the '86 |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
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Is this an old stock balancer?
Check for slippage. Had a similar problem. I was unkowingly setting my timing to a damper mark that had shifted. Had to set it by ear otherwise the car ran like azz with timing mark set to spec. When the outer rings slip on these, they walk backwards towards the timing cover and rotate at the same time.
Posted on: 2009/11/23 10:50
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Re: Lazy Man tip (Battery removal) |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
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This mod came already done from the factory starting in '86.
Which means my super lazy azz did not even have to lift a finger.
Posted on: 2009/7/7 10:26
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Re: Mad-Mic (Micheal Unger). Shot and killed! |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
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Damn, I remember him..
Posted on: 2009/1/5 5:44
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RE:Gasket advice |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Yes, the top gasket (blue one). The instructions will say to install the gasket dry, but adding some of this on both sides assures a proper leak free seal. You don't want to do this chit twice. Mine has no leaked in years with this setup.
[URL=http://imageshack.us]  [/URL]The gasket will want to shift at the front timing cover lip as you try to reinstall the pan. The right stuff helps keep it put while you raise and secure the pan back onto the block than if it where dry. I used the 4 supplied blue plastic studs that help hold the gasket up for you. But I cut the two front ones shorter so they would clear the front of the pan better.
Posted on: 2008/2/24 7:08
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RE:hooker in my car? |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Hookers will fit. Their matching front Y will not clear your auto trans' pan.
Posted on: 2008/2/10 7:30
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Re: 84-87 Hood Support Struts Dimensions? |
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Guru Newb
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2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
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Nice!  Mine has the spring loaded button.
Posted on: 2008/2/1 7:17
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RE:84-87 Hood Support Struts Dimensions? |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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PM sent. I got the spring, latch style with no upward assist.
Posted on: 2008/2/1 6:22
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Re: 84-87 Hood Support Struts Dimensions? |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Quote:
Part#? Price? Any mods required to fit it?
Posted on: 2008/2/1 4:17
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Re: 84-87 Hood Support Struts Dimensions? |
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Guru Newb
Joined:
2008/1/31 0:00 Posts:
41
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Quote:
6 inches extended, 5 inches compressed. I can tell you is those little F'ers are super stiff. I could not budge the new ones even standing on them. Rockauto has the pair for only $8.00 each. Part #SG430011 Check out my old ones. (click thumbnail) New ones made a huge difference. I can open the hood with one finger.  [URL=http://imageshack.us]  [/URL]
Posted on: 2008/1/31 9:38
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