If I turn the crankshaft until the #1 cyl intake valve opens then closes and mark that spot on the CS then keep turning until the #1 cyl exhaust valve begins to open and mark that spot on the CS then divide the distance in 1/2 will that get me close enough to TDC to reinstall the balancer hub? thanks

Ok, I'll answer my own question because I just found it. Stick a piece of heavy wire in the no.1 cyl spark plug hole, bend the end of it down so it will touch the top of the piston. Rotate the crank until the #1 intake valve opens and then closes, hold the wire in the cyl until it starts to move up, when it starts to go down you have just passed TDC, pretty close, probably close enough to reinstall the balancer which I messed up when I moved the crank after removing it (and carefully marking TDC on the timing cover - oops big goof up).

Tom,

Sorry for not getting on this last night...my apologies. Instead of using a piece of wire which could possibly scratch something up inside and may be too flexible I suggest a section of a plastic coat hanger. Not a metal, plastic coated hanger but a plastic coat hanger. I saw this before bed last night and wanted to verify my process and then I was going to chop a video for that segment. If I get time later today I may chop the video for finding TDC and load it up on YT.

Use a soda straw, they're free at Burger King.

Yea, Tom, that will get you close enough as long as the piston hasn't moved down. It takes a bit to get the feel for when the piston stops, smooth pull on the crank is the key. Cast arrow at 12 o-clock.

Thanks a bunch! The lack of a key on the crank hub is another one of many mysterious things about the LT1. Actually the first method I tried using the opening and closing of the intake and exhaust valves was pretty close (although this could be different with different cams, duration and overlap).

Don, if you could post a video that would be great. There just isn't anyway to get a TDC tool in the plug hole on #1 with the headers I have w/o removing them. The wire I used had the insulation on it so it wouldn't scratch anything.

Quote:

Yea, but with the TDC tool, you need a degree wheel on the crank to do it right. And the method you're using will be fine.