Questions is it just a thin piece of plastic junk. It does look a little better, but is that just because the add says so.

I assume this is the kit to replace that large padded POS on the passengers side?

If so, it is better... it just looks nicer.

The one in Echlers. I know I could go back to the orgional. Just concerned about the stregnth of the plastic. Does it become brittle from the heat in a short period of time?

In your opinion is it worth it?

As Andy asked, are you referring to the breadbox delete for the passenger side? If so, I've never heard of any problems.

If you are referring to the walnut/woodgrain/chrome kits to cover all the plastic with another material, they are stick on and imho look like crap.

Matthew

I have both and that is why I was asking about the passenger side Dash Panel. The fake wood panel was screwed on by the former owner. I was hoping it was better quality.

It might not be screwed on, most are double sided tape and then have holes predrilled for the factory screws. Something to double check if you plan on removing it.

Had to take them off to install the Instrument Cluster. He put several holes in the orginal dash. Why I haven't spent the money to replace them yet. Fixing the big things first.
The new clutch system worked great yesterday to and from Pismo Beach. Knock on wood. Might run it over to Vegas in a couple of weeks.

There are a myriad of kits out there. Some are cheap pieces of crap, some are nice. I've seen both. I happen to have a wood grain kit for the entire dash that looks light-years better than the OEM setup. (It wasn't cheap.) OTOH, I'd kill for a mix of alum, carb fiber, and wood. Problem is the L98's are just too FLAT.

Guess what I'd really like is the LT interior! :-)

Seriously, my PS dash kit included not one but two backing pieces. So, it's very sturdy and will last as long as any plastic. If you bought a kit that did not come with sufficient backing, I'd consider using something like masonite (with the outer edge painted black) to make it sturdy). Basically, that's what they've done with mine. And, though you might think it would like bad -- when viewed from the edge outside the car -- it does not.

I could provide pics if desired.

Would like to see what you have done. When you have time please post Pic.


Thanks

Best I can do is show the final result. If it doesn't display larger than your screen, blow this up to full-size and look at the edge of the PS dash for my results.

This Superior Dash piece came with two backing pieces. They both looked like masonite. I painted the outside edges black to make it finished.

Here's a another pic to show how satin urethane can refresh your guages...

BEFORE:


AFTER:

Wow impressive. Getting ready to pull my dash out and replace speaker. looks like an improvement. What type of wood panel is in yours? I think mine is res5 wood. Or is the satin Urthane what makes them look so great?

Steve

And the outside for fun...

This is the 14k mile 89 car I bought in 1999...


After a damaged hood and interior, I did this...


383 stroker inside...








More pictures of my custom conversion are available if you like.

Wow makes my 87 look like junk. Just started cleaning up under hood.
Would love to see ofthe pic u mentioned. Lots of work and love for the car showes.

Steve

Attach file:

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  IMG00040-20100810-1641.jpg (273.99 KB)

I don't see any junk! Nice looking car!





If you want more pics, let me know if these links work...

http://s47.photobucket.com/albums/f15 ... %20Corvette%20with%20383/

http://s47.photobucket.com/albums/f152/greggpenn/383%20Stroker/

Question by using the side pipes do they reduce the interior heat comeing into cabin. Is the area around the throttel body chrome or buffed out. The links work great. I am impressed.

Steve

I polished everything on my motor. Nothing is chrome.

If anything, sidepipes would make the cabin hotter. That's because heat is still traveling down the middle IN ADDITION to turning and going up/down the sides.

C4 "SideEffects" sidepipes don't work like C3 sidepipes. There's a lot more turns. (My bet is that also adds heat to the piping itself).

Plus, SideEffects were discontinued in 2003. I found my set used.

What type of compound did you use to buffout everything. I have access to material and tools. Can you explain the steps you went through to get the final Product. I am impressed.

Steve

Thank you.

First off, I will tell you that Google is your friend. There are PLENTY of article/vids on this subject if you just look.

In general, I sanded everything to 600grit. (If not as visible, 300-400 grit). After a few trys, I found stainless compound (black emery) to work best/fastest for converting the sanded surface to BLING.

Then, I'd completely redo with white compound since that gets the best color/depth for aluminum.

I used 2" and 4" sewn cotton wheels in a 2k rpm drill. Polishing is faster/easier with higher speed rpms. Pro shops use bench machines with 10k rpms (or more). And, you can buy one (or put an appropriate buff on some home grinders.)

The only "secret" not immediately apparent with my first couple of attempts is you have to push HARD. You have to heat that metal up (with the compounds) before they'll really start to "cut" and smooth until mirror-like.

As an example, I wore out the chuck bushing in my drill because of the extreme side pressure. BTW...I used a bit extension with my 1/4"-shank buffs. With a leather glove, I could "grip" the extension and press sideways for better pressure/control. (This is also how I did my porting with a carbide burr.)

Don't be afraid to use sanders, flap-wheels, and other machine aids to speed sanding. For the finer grits, I used wet-sanding with silicone carbide paper.

I have several high speed grinders and was worried about digging in. I can come up with what you are suggesting. Had some experiance as a welder's helper in my ex brother inlaws shop. Do you just buff it out by hand or is there something you put on it to keep it's shine? Sounds like another project to do. Not too tough

Love the tips. Like improving my car.

LOL
Steve

air tools have adjustable speeds too. you can use them as well. with pressure, they slow down alot anyway.

to keep up, just use alum polish (like mag wheel polish)

Air tools lol forgot I had some. Son hasn't returned mine after we dropped a new engine 4.0 in his Jeep Cherokee (spelled that one wrong LOL) two months ago. Rock crawler.
I have no idea why he says he is using them to change gears in the front diferental. Keeps using my cherry picker to lift the vehicle up on jack stands. I have a nice jack and his Jeep is a little tall.

I'll check and see what he hasn't lost or loaned out and start this weekend (I hope)1 part at a time.

COOL (

Thanks Steve

Quote:

Well I know now how much work you put in . Lol Just siezed up the Drill. Only about an hours work so far. Long way to go.
I guess off to Harbor freight in the morning

Steve