Looks good to me. Did you use a double chain? Is that the reason for the clearancing? I'm sure you posted it on your parts list on the first page, but I haven't looked at that since you first posted.

Matthew

Yep I used a Cloyes double chain to go with the EWP. It took a whole bunch of clearancing on the timing cover. More than I was expecting.

Timing Chain
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Cloyes_Timing_Chain_2.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/cloyes_3.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/rickreeves1/Cloyes.jpg[/IMG]

Update:

I received my new oil pan baffel early in the morning Saturday. I broke the stock one trying to remove it on Friday. The bolt just broke the thin metal off. The $6.50 part cost me $57 after next day shipping. I installed my new oil pump drive shaft and put the pump and new baffel on yesterday. The old nylon drive shaft broke apart as it fell out. I then spent the entire morning trying to get the oil pan reinstalled. Once I figured out the hole in the gasket had to go around the dipstick it only took a few minutes to get it installed. Two hours wasted fighting with it trying to figure it out followed by a few minutes of installing. Thats how just about everything has been with this cam install. If I knew what I do now I could have finished all this a long time ago. Thats why it rerally helps to have someone there whos done it before. The good news is that almost everything is back together. I have to reinstall the radiator, fans, shroud, and nitrous. I need to tighten or reconnect all hoses and electric connections. Then I have to reinstall the air ducts and ram air and I should be done. I have a new tune I have to upload also. I'm stuck at work now until next weekend. Looking forward to the startup.

I wanted to post how I reinstalled the hub just to keep track of everything I had done while it's still fresh in my head for future reference and for others to use...

I used a tool I had made that consisted of a 7/16 hardened rod, various size washers, and 7/16 nuts. I got the idea from http://members.cox.net/gmarengo/Misc/Misc.htm . I left the rod longer though since I was installing the hub with the engine still in the car. This allowed me to first tighten the rod all the way down in the crank from in front the steering rack using two nuts tightened against each other at the end. The crank was prevented from spinning by a small c-clamp I had placed on the flexplate against the block. I heated the stock hub in the oven to 500 degrees for about 15 minutes. I slipped it on the crank with the arrow up using oven mits. I then put the rod with the nuts and washers in the crank. I tightened the rod all the way down in the crank using the end nuts. I then tightened the nut with the washers against the hub to push it on. When the hub stopped to move easy and appeared to be all the way in I removed the rod tool. I then put in my hub bolt and tightened it down to the required torque specs.

I used my belt tensioner tool with a socket extension and socket to keep the balancer from spinning when installing it. I used the belt tensioner on the crank bolt to keep everything from spinning. The tensioner tool was in front of the steering rack and spun until it made contact with the frame. This held the hub in place and allowed me to tighten all the balancer bolts. I did have to remove it once to get the other bolts in a position where I could tighten them from in front of the steering rack.

Parts for tool...

3' length of 7/16" SAE Fine threaded rod, B7 (high strength alloy steel) grade, from http://www.nutty.com , various size washers and 7/16 fine thread nuts.

Question!!

Was I supposed to leave off the hub bolt spacer since I used a double roller crank gear/chain??? I can't remember the differences in thickness between the stock crank gear and the Coyles. Anyone know??

No one had mentioned it before and I just read of this today. Just about everything is back together already. Do I need to pull everything apart again or will it be ok?


Thanks

Great thread and pics.

I can't answer your question, but here's a bump for you.

Quote:

Thanks!

Someone on the other forums with the Cloyes was able to help out. They said that if the crank timing gear was thicker than the stock one the balancer and pulley would not line up correctly. Makes sense. They said I should be good reusing the stock spacer also.

Update:

I loaded the new tune on today. I started it up after turning it over some with the coil disconnected. I saw the oil pressure come up after a couple of short tries. I drove it around the neighborhood for a bit then found a spot to let it rip. (Staying under the speed limit of course) It had a miss and was running a little rough on acceleration so I had to turn around and get it back home. After playing with some of the wires I thought I saw a spark arching over to one of the headers. It was arching through the heat sock. I verified by grabbing the wire and shocking the crap out of myself. I tie wrapped it back and it should be good now. I also noticed an oil leak. It did not start until I took it for a drive and got on it a bit. It is leaking from the back of the intake where I put The Right Stuff across the China wall. The leak is right at the seam above the pipe that comes off the block. I tightened down the back 4 bolts again and ran a bunch more of The Rights Stuff along the seam with my finger. I don't know if that will help. I'm going for a long drive tomorrow about an hour away so we will see. Hopefully it will run smoother also. I thought I recorded a video to post then when I got on the computer I had a 2 second 60kb video. I guess I hit the button twice. I'll get another one tomorrow.

One thing I noticed is that seems a lot louder now. I think it is because the idle is set at 850 rpms. I'm wondering if this could be lowered some without effecting driveablity. If not it may be time for some bullet mufflers mufflers out back with cut outs up front.

Something new I noticed is that my belt tensioner pulley was bouncing up and down a little bit. Is this due to the lope of the new cam? I don't remember it doing that before.

Update:

Well today didnt go all that well. I started out at 10:30am to head home from where I work on the car. It was leaking pretty bad from the rear of the intake. Lots of smoke was coming from under the hood and it was running a little rough. When I got home I deceided to pull the intake and reseal it again. I don't have many tools at home which made it a little more interesting. I had to run to Autozone twice and that same wire I had tied up yesterday to keep it from arching must have fell out so it ran really rough and backfired until I caught it. It took about two hours to pull the intake clean it and reseal. The front was actually sealed really well. Somehow the back didnt do so well. Right in the center where that bolt comes off the block it had very little sealer. After cleaning, I used the right stuff again along the back and front of the intake and up the china walls. This time I used a good bit more and did my best to cover it all and seat the intake only once. I didnt have my torque wrench so I had to feel for it. I followed the correct tightening pattern. I'm not going to start it until tomorrow morning which should give it about 15 hours to dry. Hopefilly all goes well.

Well I drove it to work this morning. The leak at the back of the intake appears to be gone. I didnt get on it hard so I'm not 100% sure yet but I didn't see any new oil leaking. It is running a little rough like there is a slight miss on acceleration. It also backfired once while accelerating normal. I will go back and check all 8 plugs again for fit. Any other ideas?

Here's a short datamaster file I was able to record this morning before the laptop died on me. I didnt get any good runs in. It's just a short cruise and some idleing. I need a new battery for the laptop. How's it look?

http://www.mediafire.com/file/zidwim...ll_3_23_09.uni


Thanks

Excellent!

Must be a good feeling!

This is how a technical thread is supposed to look.

Nice!

I found a loose spark plug. Problem fixed. Everything has been running fine since. It feels even better than I expected. I was finally able to get a video. Anyone know how to embed a Youtube video on this forum?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EdR8DXz1mM


Thanks

Just use the "embed" address from the youtube site



Wow that sounds sick! How's the 109 lsa at idle/low rpms for driving? Any surge? Good brakes?

Matthew

That sounds good! How does it sound through the mufflers? That is idling a lower than mine but seems to have more lope than my 230/236 cam on a 110 lsa, in a 383 with HSR intake. I like the sound of yours, I just might have to install exhaust cutouts now!

Quote:

Thanks. It's got a little bit of shimmy to it at times when it's at a stop. Not too bad though. That was expected. The brakes feel exactly the same as before. There's realy no noticeable surge at cruise below 2k rpm's. I tried listening for it today and yesterday. PCMFORLESS did a good job with the emailed tune. The sound and power at WOT is amazing. I can't wait to have the heads ported, sometime next year.

Quote:

Im not sure yet, I'll let you know if I add some though. :D Right now I'm considering some dynomax bullets at the rear. It currently has LT headers into the stock 2.75" pipe with an X in the middle then 2.75" pipe straight out the back. I believe the idle is at 800 in Drive and 850 in Park or Neutral. Cutouts with the 383 would sound nice!

Thanks