As the title states I would like some details about removing the factory Bose head unit, and the factory amp.

Does the head unit control any security or door chime functions? Is there a special piece of equipment needed to control those things that needs to be connected in it's stead, and can it be used without the factory amp?

We will probably replace the double DIN factory unit with a single DIN unit using an adapter but I want to retain any functions that the factory head unit already controls.

Any removal tips for the dash, screw locations and such, or panel removal orders?

Thanks.

Hey Matt, check the Audio section. Andy has some good stuff posted in there. If your speakers work and you just want a different head unit, there are adapters for that because bose speakers run at their own impedence (1 ohm) due to each speaker being self amped. It's a PIA to replace everything, but that's another option. Depends on how far you wanna go with it.

As far as door chimes, etc, no those don't run through the head unit like on some of the newer cars.

Matthew

Okay so the head unit can simply be removed and replaced? I will run all new wiring for it, along with remote wire and RCAs.

All speakers will be removed. The fronts will be replaced, rears deleted. Sub will be installed, along with a single 10" sub. Maybe front speaker wiring will be retained but factory amp and rear wiring will not be used. Factory amp will be removed.

What size are the front Bose speakers, and is there a trick to getting to them and removing them without breaking any trim?

Maybe Andy should move this to Audio...I guess I just didn't see it when I posted this.

Matt, Andy knows a lot more about the newer interior than I do. I can only comment on up to 89, which is mine.

As far as the wiring, you'd be better off replacing all of it and not using the stock stuff, it's kinda goofy.

I'd still throw some rear speakers in there for fill, too. Just MHO.

Matthew

I would only be using the raw wiring, which won't be any worse than new wiring unless it's cracking and corroded. If it's bad when it gets torn out then I will replace it...not a big deal...but if it's already run then I'll use it if it's viable.

I've been in and around car audio for over a decade and I am just not a fan of rear fill. It's more of a myth assuming everything is tuned properly and there is a sub for low frequencies. I like my stage set up front, pretty much in the laps of the passengers. LOL.

Car audio... I started before they had easy to use harness kits... popping speakers was a real pain in the ass.

As Matt said, check the audio section. Infact, I am going to move this there.

The C4 Audio FAQ is what you need to read. That will give you a basis of knowledge and where to start.

I highly recommend using new speaker wire, too. The Bose wire is absolute junk. It's like 22 gauge and poorly shielded.

One other thought... if you haven't already, you all really need to get the Helm Factory Service Manual.

You can find them on Ebay... just be sure to get the one with the RED cover. The white cover books are preliminaries.

I took a peek at the FAQs and I was left with a few questions. The ABS pump is behind the driver's seat so does that mean the main audio processor is behind the dash? I want to verify that the factory stereo would affect no other systems in the car when it's removed.

Are there any specific tips or pictures for removing the head unit, otherwise I'll just go in blind.

I didn't realize the factory wiring was 22 gauge. Smallest I use is 18 gauge but I usually use 16 gauge. In that case I'll be running new speaker wire.

Pics of installs in late C4s would be great.

That's a good question... and I am not 100% sure where the reciever module is for 1995. I was not kidding when I said GM moved that sucker around! I thought there was some consistancy, but there isn't.

Check the ABS bin first. It's easiest. If it's there, it will be fastened to the side of the bin. It's silver, about 6" long, 2" wide and 1.5" high. It will have 2 harnesses plugged into, IIRC. It's been a while. It will also have the antenna lead going into it! A black thick cable with a silver end with a tip.

In the Tech Library, there is a tip on how to remove the head unit. It's not that hard, really.

I always use 16 gauge... just cheap insurance against noise pickup, I guess...

And I agree with you, rear fill is way over rated... I find it useful when the sub is in the trunk and there is a back seat to deal with, but otherwise, it's not needed. Especially when the sub is in front of the rear fill speakers!!!