bogus wrote:
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tjpreul wrote:
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bogus wrote:
I thought there was something in the front... inside the timing chain area. Damned my freaky memory.

There are three oil galley plugs behind the timing chain. The two outer ones have a small pinhole in them to help supply oil to the waterpump gear drive. This was an update according to some service manuals. My '92 had them.

YES! That's it!

tjpreul wrote:
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bam wrote:
tjpreul who did your machine work in Columbia, were you pretty satisfied with them? Did they also balance the engine? I notice you have the white gauges, how difficult was that to put in? Can you post a photo, I think the white gauges look really nice.

I had it done by Elson at Loop 70 Auto. I have known him for years. He is "old school" but will build what you want. However if you are on a timeline, you will not get one. He works on what he wants, when he wants. He had my block for 10 months. It was delayed because of the line bore. He did splayed caps, plateau honed (with torque plates) and assembly. The rotating assembly was bought and balanced from another company (I will have to look this up).

I did not do the guages in my car, so I do not have any imput. I am not a fan of the orange. This was a huge selling point. The best way to compare is to find two cars on ebay.

tjpreul wrote:
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bam wrote:
tjpreul how is your build coming? Thanks for letting me post a couple of question here on your thread! Keep us up to date on your motor.

Good. I have been doing the modifications the kit requires while the engine is out. There are several cut here, drill there. Overall its not bad. The shipping weight of the box was 90lbs. Think of fitting 90lbs of material in the extra space under the C4 hood.

Will is very knowlegable on setups. He was very helpful with all of the questions I had. Do you already have headers, or plan on putting them on.

rklessdriver wrote:
The LTX's do have the pin holes in the cam galley plugs.... they are to spray additional oil on to the upper cam and waterpump drive gears.

That lobe damage looks like a rod hit it honestly.... but without inspecting everything I couldn't say for sure.

When a lifter goes bad and damages a cam - typically it eats a track in the whole lobe....

When a lobe is damaged from lifter bounce it's always on the closing side flank of the lobe.

With that kind damage on the cam lobes, the lifters are suspect big time.... I would not reuse lifters from that engine in anything.... no matter how good they seemed.
Will

tjpreul wrote:
I removed the timing cover from my old engine tonight. The two oil plugs above the timing cover had small pinholes. Everything looks stock, but I didn't think these were used in '92. The block is the original. I checked the engine code.

I took the cam out of the old engine, and this is what I found. The lifters looked good. There were five with damage, but this was the worst.

Strick wrote:
Got my heads back. Ken, of Pro Outboard, has a great shop for doing valve work and re-surfacing. The heads have new LT4 springs and oil seals. The surface is dead on flat and looks very shiney. The chambers measure out at 54cc's. Everything is set for the Hot cam. Now it's getting close to start wrenching. I have one more cruise and then I'll begin the set up for surgery.

istter1 wrote:
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bam wrote:
You guys are a wealth of info. Thanks. I took the hose to the auto parts store, they build hydraulic lines but they said they had never seen a fitting like the one on both ends. The Chevy dealer said the part is discontinued, so I was feeling pretty helpless. I will try the implement dealer, they build hydraulic hoses too, maybe they can make it.

Funny you mentioned Implement dealer I worked for International Harvester In Button Willow Ca from age 15-21 for my step father.

You may go to a brake supplier and see if they have the ends needed. Bending brake lines only takes a broom handle. Anyone can use a flaring tool.
Did your clutch hose look like this one
http://www.cssbinc.com/corvette1991-96clutchhose.aspx

brake
http://www.cssbinc.com/search.aspx?find=93+brake+lines
Main page on line cat.
http://www.cssbinc.com/

Steve

jaa1992 wrote:
At 1" I'd seriously think about replacing it.
Replacement single mass flywheels range from the same weight to really light.

As the flywheel gets lighter you notice the noise in the trans more and more. I currently have a steel flywheel that is probably 70% the weight of the dual mass. I only notice the noise with the clutch out in neutral.

It really is a personal choice - I wish I got the light weight aluminum. Could use more respnsiveness comming off the corners.

If you reuse it just scrub the old material off - don't turn it, most places have no idea how to handle a dual mass flywheel.

jaa1992 wrote:
In the FSM there is a procedure to check the dual mass to make sure the internal damping is ok.

However I'm on the side of replace with lighter flywheel

tjpreul wrote:
Did you ever run your car before to get a 1/4mi time. The engine will feel a lot better totally freshened up. I'm not too far away from pulling my engine (new one on stand). Is it a local shop that your having do the work.

Andrew wrote:
Looks like a lot of progress. Are you rebulding or going the crate route?

BillH wrote:
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bam wrote:
I wish I had pulled the hub and the balancer instead of just the balancer.

Bam, you can't just throw a puller on the hub to pull it, it won't work.

Here's how:
http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... id=119118#forumpost119118

Durango_Boy wrote:
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bam wrote:
I have read several forums on pulling the LT1 motor on my 93 vett. but still don't understand something. Several say to pull the tranny first (zf6spd) because the tranny and motor don't separate easily at the bell housing. If that is true then how is it easier to pull the tranny with the motor still in the car? It looks to me like unbolting the bell housing from the tranny, and pulling the motor and the bell housing together with the tranny in the car supported by a jack would work, am I missing something here?
If I am right, how far does the motor have to come forward to separate from the tranny before it can be lifted out of the engine bay?

Bam, where in Missouri are you located? Tyler and I live in Columbia, and another brother Andrew hails from Jefferson City. Let us know if you're close and maybe we can assist.

Calm wrote:
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bam wrote:
I have read several forums on pulling the LT1 motor on my 93 vett. but still don't understand something. Several say to pull the tranny first (zf6spd) because the tranny and motor don't separate easily at the bell housing. If that is true then how is it easier to pull the tranny with the motor still in the car? It looks to me like unbolting the bell housing from the tranny, and pulling the motor and the bell housing together with the tranny in the car supported by a jack would work, am I missing something here?
If I am right, how far does the motor have to come forward to separate from the tranny before it can be lifted out of the engine bay?

Hey Bam,
I've pulled my motor twice and kept the ZF in the car each time. I pulled the rad, balancer (after the motor is raised a bit), oil sensors, and steam tube. Then I jacked the tranny up a little while lifting the motor. Came out fine.
Good luck.

PLRX wrote:
I removed mine with a 15mm twice with no issues. I wonder why a 15mm is not working for you.

FYI, you can find those rubber gaskets at the dealer

tjpreul wrote:
Was the pcv hose that connects to the tb full of oil?

BillH wrote:
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bam wrote:
Valve guides are shot. I just got the heads off and I can still see cross hatch in most of the cylinders. It was #4 that had a leak down rate of 23% Actually that cyl. looks pretty good too but the rings must be bad, not really sure? I assume the crank is fine, I am sure I did not spin a bearing, the engine turns over fine and runs fine, just started using a ton of oil.

23% isn't the rings unless they are totally stuck. You need to pop the springs on #4 and check for a bent valve or carbon build up. I've seen carbon buildup blow a leakdown test before.

Then you need to bore gauge the cylinders to check for out of round and cylinder taper. And the amount of ridge at the top of the cylinder. This will determine what you need to do and should be done before even considering what to buy.

After that, listen to Will's advice.

Strick wrote:
Is it easier to pull the engine by just disconnecting from the bell housing after supporting the trans? Or is it easier to just remove the trans then pull the motor?