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| bam | pulling the motor - question | ||
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Senior Guru
 
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I have read several forums on pulling the LT1 motor on my 93 vett. but still don't understand something. Several say to pull the tranny first (zf6spd) because the tranny and motor don't separate easily at the bell housing. If that is true then how is it easier to pull the tranny with the motor still in the car? It looks to me like unbolting the bell housing from the tranny, and pulling the motor and the bell housing together with the tranny in the car supported by a jack would work, am I missing something here?
If I am right, how far does the motor have to come forward to separate from the tranny before it can be lifted out of the engine bay? |
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Posted on: 2011/10/6 0:13
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| mistaben | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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well on a '91 auto... about 6" and you'll clear everything that is attached to the firewall, if your just pulling the motor. it is probably easier to pull motor and tranny together because lining those tranny to motor bolts back up is///can be extremely difficult if you dont have some friends to help you. imagine trying to line up a 200lb and a 300lb object in space within a 1/64th of an inch or so to get the bolt holes to line up working within the space of the car.... |
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Posted on: 2011/10/6 0:30
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| tjpreul | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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I am not sure on the Corvette. When you remove the trans crossmember, lower the rear of the trans you can usually reach the bellhousing bolts with a socket and extension.
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Posted on: 2011/10/6 0:40
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Vegas wasn't built on winners. '92 auto, MSD, Banski, Taylor wires, SS lines, C5 rims, 3.07 gears, white gauges, seats from a '96. Motor: Forged rotating assy, Probe pistons, CC valvetrain, AFR heads, Procharger P1SC |
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| Calm | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Hey Bam, I've pulled my motor twice and kept the ZF in the car each time. I pulled the rad, balancer (after the motor is raised a bit), oil sensors, and steam tube. Then I jacked the tranny up a little while lifting the motor. Came out fine. Good luck. |
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Posted on: 2011/10/6 1:08
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1995 Forged 385 ZF6 227/234 1.6 FIC30# MSD BBK SS SLP Bullets X-Pipe DynoMax |
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| Durango_Boy | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Bam, where in Missouri are you located? Tyler and I live in Columbia, and another brother Andrew hails from Jefferson City. Let us know if you're close and maybe we can assist. |
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Posted on: 2011/10/6 1:12
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| 1Fast04Vert | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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I just went through this with my 95 coupe, but with the 4L60E. DJXIB also just recently did his with the M6 and can probably give you some real good advise.
I didn't have to remove the steam tubes to get clearance for tilting the engine, just the balancer on the front and the oil pressure senders on the rear. |
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Posted on: 2011/10/6 2:15
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2004 Vert. 475hp. Built by Vengeance Racing |
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| djxib | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Senior Guru
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For a ZF6, some will say remove the hood and pull motor and tranny together.
For mine, I first separated the transmission from the bellhousing, then pulled the engine and bellhousing together. Key tips/steps for me were: 1. Support the transmission with a tranny jack and remove the C beam and driveshaft 2. Lower the rear of the transmission so you can see all the tranny to bellhousing bolts (and the shifter is clear), support the rear of the motor with another jack, then separate the tranny from the bell housing. Note that the engine mounts will be fine if you do this. 3. Using a load leveler, pull the motor and bellhousing together. It will be easier if you remove the balancer when doing this. Sounds easy - first time it isnt, but it gets easier. |
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Posted on: 2011/10/6 2:28
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Andy 1996 Greenwood Collectors Edition LT4 Previously 1992 Convertible Polo Green. 383 LT1/LT4 forged/balanced. V7-YSi, Alky. 608RWHP... Now sitting at a dismantler with a salvage title. Still runs... |
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| bam | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Senior Guru
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Clam, thanks. How far did the motor have to come forward to release the bell housing from the tranny? I am thinking that I can raise the motor, remove the motor mounts, lower the motor back down, support the tranny, attach motor to the cherry picker to support it then I can reach the tranny to bell housing bolts, loosen and remove them and then slide the motor forward and up out of the engine bay with bell housing attached, sound good to you? I have the motor stripped down to just the bare block, that should help too. |
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Posted on: 2011/10/6 14:39
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| bam | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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You guys are great!! I live in Brookfield, MO. 60 miles straight north on 63 to 36 hwy and then 35 mi west. It is 95 min from Columbia and 2 1/2hr from Jeff. That's pretty far to come. I have a buddy here coming to help me this weekend, the motor is totally stripped to just the bare block and I hope two hrs and it should be out, something always goes wrong though, we'll see. I'll keep you posted. Thanks man. |
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Posted on: 2011/10/6 14:46
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| tjpreul | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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I figured you were in St. Joe area. Your still a good drive away, but if you need something let us know.
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Posted on: 2011/10/6 16:10
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Vegas wasn't built on winners. '92 auto, MSD, Banski, Taylor wires, SS lines, C5 rims, 3.07 gears, white gauges, seats from a '96. Motor: Forged rotating assy, Probe pistons, CC valvetrain, AFR heads, Procharger P1SC |
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| bam | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Senior Guru
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Motor is out!!! Now I see why some guys take the tranny out, then pull the motor. I wish I had pulled the hub and the balancer instead of just the balancer. It looks like getting this thing back in will be much harder than pulling it out. I had some free time at home today and just pulled it myself, wasn't too bad but not easy for sure. I'll post a pix.
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Posted on: 2011/10/6 21:43
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| bam | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Picture??
Attach file:  IMG_4196.JPG (85.47 KB) |
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Posted on: 2011/10/6 22:08
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| Matatk | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Congrats on getting it out! I did my motor pull alone, too. It's kind of a 1 ½ person job, but you can manage alone. Putting it back in is a little more difficult with lining up motor mounts, etc. But if you got this far, you'll be fine.
Matthew |
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Posted on: 2011/10/6 22:34
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2002 EBM convertible, Magnusson supercharger, cam, headers, etc. 1989 Corvette...RIP |
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| BillH | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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The Stig Moderator
 
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Bam, you can't just throw a puller on the hub to pull it, it won't work. Here's how: http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... id=119118#forumpost119118 |
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Posted on: 2011/10/6 23:22
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Every man dies but not every man lives. |
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| Andrew | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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2013 Memorial Day Car Show Winner!
 
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Looks like a lot of progress. Are you rebulding or going the crate route?
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Posted on: 2011/10/7 0:29
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2003 Atomic Orange Z06 Sold - 1996 Competition Yellow LT4 - DRM 383, NX N2O, Line Lock, LT Headers, 3" stainless exhaust, Power Effects, and many more mods SOLD 1996 Competition Yellow LT4 SOLD 1979 4 Speed with 383 |
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| tjpreul | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Elite Guru
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Did you ever run your car before to get a 1/4mi time. The engine will feel a lot better totally freshened up. I'm not too far away from pulling my engine (new one on stand). Is it a local shop that your having do the work.
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Posted on: 2011/10/7 1:52
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Vegas wasn't built on winners. '92 auto, MSD, Banski, Taylor wires, SS lines, C5 rims, 3.07 gears, white gauges, seats from a '96. Motor: Forged rotating assy, Probe pistons, CC valvetrain, AFR heads, Procharger P1SC |
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| bam | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Senior Guru
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I need some help getting the bell housing off. It looks like in the FSM I need to loosen the "ball stud locking screw" right? Anything I need to look for with the clutch, throw out bearing wear and possible replacement?
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Posted on: 2011/10/7 3:13
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| bam | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Thanks for the reminder, it's been a while since I had the hub off. I screw a longer 5/8" bolt in the hub to protect the threads while I put the puller on it to get it off. |
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Posted on: 2011/10/7 3:16
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| bam | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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I have found it almost impossible to find a crate LT1 so I am rebuilding mine. |
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Posted on: 2011/10/7 3:24
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| bam | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Never did run the 1/4 but I did notice a nice boost in power with the hot cam and headers already. I am going with the local engine shop here in town. Is your new motor an LT1? What have you done to it? Did you build it yourself? |
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Posted on: 2011/10/7 3:27
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| tjpreul | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Elite Guru
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I'm staying with the LT1. It isn't a cost friendly engine. You can find shortblocks, but I would rather have one that wasn't built just to resell. You don't know where they cut corners. I bought a block and did a total rebuild (all new parts). A local shop assembled the shortblock for me. |
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Posted on: 2011/10/7 22:50
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| bam | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Senior Guru
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I got the bell housing off and I need a new clutch, it is worn almost to the rivets. I am hoping the flywheel is ok, anybody know how to tell for sure? Where can I get a good new clutch?
Attach file: IMG_4207.JPG (65.85 KB) |
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Posted on: 2011/10/7 23:11
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| jonszr1 | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Senior Guru
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you might want to look into a lighter weight flywheel ,like a fidanza . it will let the car accelerate faster . i would contact the zfdoc bill boudreau. he really knows his stuff and can help you get the very best setup for your car . he has done all the work on my 3 zr1s . his ph is 602 319 6575 .tell him brad referred you to him .hr also has bueprinted my trannys and you wouldn't believe the difference .he also sells the best short shifter for the zf tranny thats out there .
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Posted on: 2011/10/8 22:06
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i have a blast playing with my 4 babies 2 zr1s and 2 mustangs 68 coupe with a jon bennit 408 art car fully rollered c4 with a gearvendors over drive .88 mustang built by my kids with a ported lt5 and a bill boudreau blue printed zf 6 spd. with these 4 ... |
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| jaa1992 | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Guru
 
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In the FSM there is a procedure to check the dual mass to make sure the internal damping is ok.
However I'm on the side of replace with lighter flywheel  |
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Posted on: 2011/10/11 18:51
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| bam | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Senior Guru
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Are you talking about putting a mark on the front part flywheel and one on the back then moving the back part of the flywheel counter clockwise and measure the distance? I did that and it is less than the factory maximum of 1 3/8" mine is about 1". It's the flywheel surface that I am worried about. I am wondering if I will really feel a difference in a light weight flywheel costing $450+ or is it something you notice only when racing, if so then I really don't need it, if it is like adding 30 horse power then I might consider it. Otherwise if I can reuse my stock flywheel then that's 450 to spend on new seats (which I need). |
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Posted on: 2011/10/13 2:06
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| jaa1992 | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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At 1" I'd seriously think about replacing it.
Replacement single mass flywheels range from the same weight to really light. As the flywheel gets lighter you notice the noise in the trans more and more. I currently have a steel flywheel that is probably 70% the weight of the dual mass. I only notice the noise with the clutch out in neutral. It really is a personal choice - I wish I got the light weight aluminum. Could use more respnsiveness comming off the corners. If you reuse it just scrub the old material off - don't turn it, most places have no idea how to handle a dual mass flywheel. |
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Posted on: 2011/10/13 13:49
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| bam | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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Yes I guess if it need replacing then I have to spend the money anyway and I'd hate to have to tear the car back down in a few months if I reuse the dual flywheel and it goes out, I'd much rather replace it now. Where can I find the whole kit, flywheel and clutch together? |
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Posted on: 2011/10/13 13:58
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| jaa1992 | Re: pulling the motor - question | ||
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I had good results using carolina clutch for a clutch I needed ASAP.
They also sell the flywheels |
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Posted on: 2011/10/16 1:51
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