C1 http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... t_id=38256#forumpost38256
C2 http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... 20&forum=51&post_id=38257
C3 http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... 22&forum=50&post_id=38271
C4 http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... 24&forum=21&post_id=38272
C5 http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... 21&forum=52&post_id=38259

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Have a look how high this thing sits....
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And its bit of this bit of that dash (its meant to be a 94, and no, it doesnt have an LT4 in it)
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Only one of these too:
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Only one of these there:
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Ok, im about to start sorting and uploading pics, ill post links to the threads here for you all.

With abit of engineering you can make a better design anyway, and save alot of weight at the same time. Id sooner use chromemoly for a job like that instead of RHS.

some people have had some rather huge avitars in times gone by too.

Are you able to move all that menu at the left side to either the top or bottom? Its taking up sideways space where it is, and you have to scroll most of the way to the top to use it anyway.

So do i, but its not going to hamper performance, some people might like the look, i personally dont, but cant see any good reason not to use it if thats what he likes. Itll flow alot more air than his engine can ever take in.

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Why not?

No worries mate, its no big deal.

Looks alot better now

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No its not.
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It came into production in 89 for the 90 model.
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Yep, 90 it is (or was) all the same since then apart from the duct work.

Sorry glen i dont know about clutches mate, so i cnat help you other than a bump up the list

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Id take it for all those reasons, rebuilt to stock, an 84 wouldnt break a DANA 36 on the street unless you really abused it.

A fair few, probably 15 or 20, ive got a heap of pics, ill try and get them up soon, i just havent got to it yet, i was very tired when i got home after being up that many hours.

Yeah mate, remember this sig gets posted on every single post you make.

Its too big.

2nd prize, beaten by a 91 ZR1 that belongs to a good mate of mine

Ill post up a heap of pics soon, got all series covered from 1 to 6, so ill group them as best i can

Thanks blokes, its almost 4am so im almost ready to do the Harold Holt.

Ive carried heavier things than that on the tip of my old fella.... Not 517 times in one sitting though....

Well i spent from 9am til almost 8pm working on getting the car to look half decent for the show tomorrow, so fingers crossed the weather will remain as good as it has been.

Ill see if i can get some pics for you all, there should be around 100-125 Corvettes at this show (which is very big for Australia, we only have a total of about 4,000-5,000 in the whole country from C1 to C6)

Danspeed1, we need to do something with that massive sig of yours mate, can you stack the pics one under the other instead of side by side please?

Id pay $1,000 for that as it is now, with a paint job and a rebuilt engine as well as a few other little things i could sell that here for $20,000

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Its a 2 series carrier, youve got 3 options, 1 and 2 are the two thick ring gear options, 3.54 and 3.73, the other is a complete unit, 3.07 or 3.31. The 3.31 will be very hard to come by.

Im not a fan of the thick gear options cause its not the ring that is most likely to break, its either the guts, or twist the pinion off.

No L98 coupes ever came with a 2.73 rear end that i know of, only convertibles did. Coupes either had 2.59 (RPO GM1) or 3.07 (RPO G92)

Its electro etched into the underneath of the diff housing.

Im not a 3.73 DANA 36 fan, 3.54 is as high as id take it.

You must have a convertible do you Patgizz? If its a Coupe, they never came with 2.73 gears.

It draws about 2 amps Coaster, but i dont believe it works either til i try it and see it in action. 2 amps aint gonna do jack do the ecconomy of the alternator.

Thats a given Coaster

Yeah but how will they see water? What will they say to that?

Yes, thats how its meant to work, ive never tried it, dont know anyone that has yet. The issue here is how will the O2 sensor see this and effect the fuel? Will it still want to pump in the same amount of juice? Will this stuff cause excess wear because it has no lubricating properties whatso ever?

Matak, all is well there, but the temp of the engine should have little or no bearing at all on the pressure. Its all related to vacuum

I wash my engine all the time, and havent had an issue with the distributor. Its on its second cap and rotor, but the unit is original. Its not vented.

i get backfire out the exhaust when the ASR kicks in under hard acceleration.

Thought it may have been Bill, but i dont go back that far mate, never even seen one.

Ive sent you a PM...

The bloke i work for has been an electrical engineer for over 40 years, and he doesnt seem to think so. In his experienced eyes, the lower voltage, however short the run, is less efficient.

Now i dont know how much you know about electricity, i dont know anymore than ive learned from the bloke i work for, ive seen his resume, and his experience speaks for its self, so one has to assume the man knows what he is on about.

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Your heat waves are reasonably tame from what ive heard, when it hits 115*F, then we start to think about it being abit too hot.

One of the reasons your electricity grid isnt as tollerant is the lower voltage, which requires more current and fatter wire to do the same job. Ofcourse its way too late to do anything about that now. Thats not the bigger picture, thats the much smaller picture, cause i dont know for sure, but i doubt the whole of the USA has such a power concern as it does in that area.

We dont have that problem here at all that ive ever heard of, doesnt mean it doesnt happen, but its never happened anywhere ive ever lived.

There are a fair few people i know living not far west of me that have sola power setups, dumping into very large lead-acid batteries and going through an inverter to get it to 240 VAC. There is no environmental impact on sola yet is there?

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Ive encountered that myself recently too.

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Well in all honesty, if you dont want to swap out that 3.33:1 ratio, youre not going to enjoy the car as much. Its too tall mate, the CompCams may or may not recomend changing the rear gears, but if they dont, they are dreaming if they think youre going to have any kind of low down punch.

For a stock bottom end, those cam choices are not pretty small, the intake will only flow so much. The POWERMAX 2032 would be quite a good choice i reckon. If you wanted to do something serious with the intake (and id have said miniram) then going with the AFR heads and 3rd cam shaft i suggested would be pretty good. Too much cam isnt a good thing, and your intake can only suck down so much air.

No mate, pull the fuel pump fuse, start the engine and then while it runs take the cap off. I dont think itll run for long, if it does at all, but sometimes they could run for a long time.

Yes Andy, the LT5 was sequential from the day dot.

Your 91 is batch fire Glen yes.

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There are LOADS of cars that are running on it, none of them are at all practical.

Hydrogen takes electricity to make (which some of you blokes made it very clear you dont like), costs substantially more to make then petrol, and so for there is no safe way to store enough of it in a car to get more than about 70-80 miles (which was another thing alot of you didnt like). You cant just stop anywhere and fill'r up, and even if you could, youd be looking at alot more money to go alot less range. It was 10-15 years off production 20 years ago, and its still 10-15 years off so they say.

Sorry mate that should say SENDER unit. The strainer sock is on the pickup. Pull it out and have a look, if its no good, youll know exactly what youre looking at. The factory service manual might say that, but that doesnt mean its a fact, and ive seen a few strainers that were sucked flat (which can reduce flow) as well as a few that were clogged with shit. Only way to know for sure what it looks like and what the condition of it is, is to pull the sender unit out and have a good look. Its not hard, 4 torx screws, 3 hoses, one power plug, then about 10 or 12 hex head bolts hold it in the top of the tank.

You shouldnt have been shocked under the bonnet, that has never happened to me with good leads EVER. Id have to see it to know, but ive had leads that you could see the spark while bending over and blocking the sunlight, and the car still ran ok, certainly not great (quite far from it), but it would accelerate, just bucked and missed abit.

While youre looking around, check to make sure the knock sensor line doesnt get real close to a leaking plug lead, cause this can cause false knock (which i dont think is your problem here)

No, you dont need to pull off the vac line to the regulator, all that will do is stop the regulator from lessening the fuel pressure when vac levels are higher and less pressure is required to flow the same about of fuel.

The roller tips in roller rockers do very little to reduce resistance, ofcourse they do something, but the main advantage to roller rockers is the roller trunion, which is why roller-tip rockers are pretty near useless unless youre desperate to add abit more lift.

The fuel pressure gauge goes on the shrader valve, not on any vacuum lines.

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Which vacuum line?

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My new leads must be shot then, ive never had that happen with any plug leads that were not on their way out.

Pull the sensor unit out and check the strainer sock in the tank, its on the base of the pump.

Pull the sender unit out and have a look at the strainer sock on the bottom of the pump.

Yes hydrogen does burn, but so does salt water if its exposed to certain radio waves.

I have the info for that water4gas idea here that someone emailed me, i havent read it yet, but i dont expect it to work on a computer controlled car unless its tuned to run in open loop and assuming the amount of gas this jar produced was reasonably even.

Sounds abit light to me mate, what does the factory service manual say to put in it?

I dont know where youre from or what you want this thing to do, but i reckon this cam if you want emission compliance:
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browse ... =104224&partType=camshaft

And either of these if you want to go further and change the rear end ratio:
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browse ... =109821&partType=camshaft

Or
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browse ... =109831&partType=camshaft

You can mate, there is a Toyota RAV4 EV, does over 100 miles on a charge and apparently there is one that has done over 100,000 miles on its original batteries.