Thanks all for your help.

Another fail. Replaced the Evap Cannister Purge Solenoid valve with same results. Only thing left is intake manifold gasket. Real close to taking a trip to my mechanic. $$$$

What a ride.Rocker arms are rockin, pushrods are going up and down smoothly soooo its not a stuck intake or exhaust valve. I started t-shooting the vacuum system and much to my surprise when I pull off a vacuum hose I do not have vacuum. I pulled the brake booster hose and there was plenty of vacuum. There is a Evap Cannister Purge Solenoid valve that sits right on top of the intake. I checked the hose coming right off of that solenoid and no vacuum.

update: I removed the ECP Solenoid valve (it has an o-ring seal)and found PLENTY of vacuum. Hmmm let's see, lots of vacuum on one side of the valve and NO vacuum on the other side. Sounds defective to me. Thoughts/experiences? Also the mystery is why only #6 cylinder is coding as a misfire.

Appreciate your help.

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1997 350 80k. Thanks, didn't know there was a forum for other vehicles.

Did the spark test and it was good. This is actually for my GMC Sierra truck. Pulling valve cover today. Bad news, truck is down, good news is I have to drive the Vette while its down. Thanks for your inputs.

Have you seen the new 2014 C& Corvette Stingray? Yowza!

Just got a Code PO306 on my 350 engine. This code is a misfire on #6 cylinder. I changed the plugs, wires, cap & rotor and did a compression check on all cylinders. They were all reading right around 150 psi which may have been a little higher had I thought to warm up the engine first. I pulled the #6 spark plug back out after starting up and found it is as clean as when I put it in. No evidence of combustion. The compression check tells me my valves are closing but the shiny spark plug tells me my intake valve must be stuck shut. I poured 8 oz of Marvel Mystery oil in both the gas tank and the crankcase and let her run for 15 minutes to no avail. Same miss, same code. I would appreciate any and all thoughts. Thanks in advance.

Nope. This steering box goes into my 1955 CJ3B Willys Jeep. I posted it here because these guy's really know their stuff. I also posted it on a Willy's Jeep Forum and as of yet have not heard a thing. This Site is hands down the best.

Believe it or not I found both a rebuild kit or a remanufactured box at Ecklers. Thanks for all your inputs.

Any thoughts as to where I can get a rebuild kit? Jegs or Rock Auto maybe?

Thanks Bill. Great information. I was able to get a number off of the casting. 5666723-13. I'd really like to rebuild it just so I can get into it.

Need help in identifying this steering gear box. Its currently on a 1955 cj3b willy's jeep but a lot of parts came from a 1962 impala. Any ideas? Thanks.

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Specifically 84 door panels. Thanks.

Thanks Joel. There is hope....

A word of caution to those who may do this in the future. After you remove the nut and start to remove the switch from the door be extra careful to pull it straight out and do it SLOWLY. As I was doing this the wiring connector separated and fell back into the door jam and disappeared. Its only a 1/4" hole so you can't see it much less get at it. Been fishing for it near 4 hours now-no luck.

After cleaning the switch up it was simple to test. Ohm across the connectors and then push the switch open and watch the meter drop to zero.

When I pulled the door light switch out I was a bit surprised.If you look close enough you can see three brass prongs that make contact with a brass shaft which is connected to the button end of the switch. No muss no fuss and no shimming required. The brass does look a little dirty so it might be as simple as cleaning it up. If that doesn't work then I have to figure out how to test it. I can do an Ohms test to see if the brass makes contact on all three points but beyond that ... Any ideas?

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Goin to look into the SEMS paint. Sounds like the road best traveled.

Wow. Great illustration and picture. Now, keeping in mind there is no such thing as a dumb question... Whats a DIC?

Honestly I "assumed" that since there was no wiggle in them and they seemed solid that they were good. Thanks for the prompt. I am going to remove them and put a meter on and run an Ohms test.

1984. Door switches are good. ALL the interior lights stay on so my logic is pointing towards that Interior light delay timer.

Mine is obviously not working (the interior lights stay on) and the research I have done leaves me with a question. Do I just replace the circuit board or the whole assembly and where is it located? Thanks.

First thing is to replace that center console cover/lid. Research shows me new covers with a light. The original does not have a light.

Also the top plastic trim piece that is just behind and on the top of the front windshield and extends across from passenger to driver.

Lastly, the sun visors.

Thanks for your inputs!!!!

I'm starting to replace some interior trim/parts. I have looked at Ecklers but was wondering if you guys have another source for parts. Thanks.

Welcome!! And I thought my Vette was Red! Nice car!

BillH was right. They just pop out. All the internals were right there and accessible. Drivers side done-now on to the passenger side...

Thanks to all. Here goes.

How do I remove the side mirrors to get to the motors?

First sign you're gettin old is when you forget you posted something already. Thanks again (again).

Wow. I'm a bit confused as to what goes on the end of this connector. Doesn't look like just a bulb. Plus how does this connect into the driving light hole. Its been this way since I bought the Corvette, I'm just now getting around to fixing the Driving lights (some call them Fog lights). Anyone have a picture? Thanks.

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I would start by looking at your cam. Get the specs from the guys who installed it and make sure its the right one. As an after thought you might also consider upgrading your oil pump. Good luck.

You got it! With the engine off and no power steering to assist turning it from side to side was MUCH easier with it jacked up. Instead of of fighting it with two hands I turned it one one finger. Thanks again for all your help guys. Now, on to that dash.........

Thanks for your inputs guys!!

It was that easy. Jacked up the front end and with the engine OFF cycled the steering back and forth more than several times. Started engine (still jacked up), and cycled several more times. Jack removed, started up to take it for a test drive. It was a little stiff until I took my first turn then became easy. Sweet.

All,
Just got through replacing my Power Steering Pressure hose. Steering is H-A-R-D. Manual says to bleed it, have the front end off the ground and turn the wheel back and forth several times. Can't be that easy. Any thoughts?

My thanks goes out to you guys. Wow, video, parts numbers and tool lists. Incredible.

My mistake was not realizing (knowing) that there is not a bolt that holds the pulley in place once its pressed on. Its just pressed on. No wonder I went through several allen wrench's.

The only thing I've proven is that I can still put some torque on hand tools.

I'm beginning to understand one of my dad's old sayings: "Some people live and learn-others just live".

Pulleys aren't the problem. The question is is there a nut that has to be removed first (manual calls it a "cover plate") ?Thanks for your help.

Here is the front of my pulley. Looking in the middle you can see where the 3/8 allen wrench fits into. I can't get this to loosen up and come out. The curious thing is the manual doesn't say anything about taking this part out. Only mentions using a gear puller. I have all the gear pullers one might need but unless this comes out I'm thinking pullers will not work. What am I missing?

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Sanity check. I've stripped out two allen wrenches trying to get this thing off. Great suggestion putting something between the vise grips and the pulley. They are good quality allen wrenches so that's not the problem. I assuming (I know) that its normal in that it loosens going counter clock? Next stop-a small dab of C4.

Have a power steering hose leak. Having difficulty removing the pulley. Strap wrench was a joke, couldn't hold onto channel locks and vise grips seems like it will tear up the metal. Any suggestions? Cars a 1984 C4. Thanks.

This has been one of the things on my to-do list since I bought the car August of last year. The hood strut was removed by the last owner and I currently open and prop up with a big stick. Thanks goes out to Bogus-I'll try Ecklers.

Welcome to the site! Glad to have you. You'll find as I did (been here a little over a year) that these guy's are the best at troubleshooting and helping.

Found the parts at Rock Auto. Even bought a spare

Try Rock Auto. They had an obsolete part for my car.

Ugg! My dash was blinking on and off (again) so in my infinite wisdom I started tapping on it. Yep, you guessed it, I tapped too hard and the glass(?) cracked and the dash is still blinking. I believe its even taunting me. So here's my question(s): How hard is this job? Has anyone successfully upgraded their dash? Thanks in advance for your help.

Thanks for your inputs. I'm going to the parts house on Monday. I'll post bulb numbers if/when I get them.

Thanks for your response and the picture. I was confused at the connector/bulb socket. Never seen one like that till now. Thanks again.

Thanks BillH. Had to copy into another program. Here it is.....

Quote:

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Having trouble downloading photo. The end looks like its plugs into a socket.?

Finally able to get to fixing my fog lights (driving lights?) and this it what I get when I pulled the socket out. Please see photo. All help is appreciated.