Arron,

My fuel rails are held on with 1/4" stainless allen head cap screws. I've got 42psi idling and haven't noticed any flex in the tubing pieces he welded to the intake and mounted the fuel rail to.

Who built yours? Mine needed a lot of re-work as well...
Will

Yes that is what pre load is.

At a 1/4 turn they should sound like you described. My T&D shaft mounts sound just as you described with 1/4 turn (which is about .020 lifter pre load).

Going to a 1/2 turn will quite them down some but it will also increase the chance that the lifter will "pump up" at higher RPM.

What lifters are you using?

The GM racing "Caddy" lifters recommend .040 pre load. I used them in an engine I recently built for Noland Smith (Black Harley Man on the CF) and his is as quite as a mouse at 1/4 turn and pulls to 7000rpm without any valve float or lifter pump.

I think you would be OK but every engine is different. Since he spec'd the cam for you, I would ask Llyod if going to 1/2 a turn would hurt you or not.
Will

Quote:

I totally agree... Normally. However after months of research (before I ever bought anything) and taking with other engine builders, I got convinced that these Morel's would stand a buch more spring pressure.

Heck Chris Straube runs 200lbs/500lbs on his off shore BBC's using Morel's and dosen't have any problems. He is convinced the lifters are faulty.

I am tempted to:
1. Put a mech roller in it. But If I do I'll be buying time on my crank and rods. The lobes I'm looking at are real nice and mild, but it will still put me 30-50HP stronger than it should be now. It is all untra light stuff and not really desgined for over 600HP.

2. Put a mild hyd roller in it similar to the Reed I speced for Nolands car. Then put a LT4 intake on it, turn it 6500RPM and call it a day.

Instead of flying off the handle and changing everything one way or the other here, I'm going to try the new PSI springs first, then if that fails to solve the problem change the lifters. I spent a lot of development time and money here with what I have and I'd like see it run to tis potential.
Will

Quote:

I've thought about the elbow and 58mm TB hurting it at higher RPM but honestly I don't think it is. Quite a few others are running 10.0's with this same set up on a 430inch Gen 1 motors.

Maybe its the angle of the pic that makes it look less tall than his. Mine is 3 3/8 tall at it's shortest point.

Will

How much pre load on the lifter??

Will

The air distribution is better and the runners are longer in the single plane.
Will

Quote:

Yes. It currently has one one it. That's why I'm going for changing the valve springs first. Seems easier than pulling the intake and Rev Kit and lifters.

The bad thing is I shouldn't have to change anything. The motor ran fine on the dyno right before I put it in the car. Plenty of other engine builders are running way more spring pressure on these Morel lifters (I only have 150lbs/400lbs). Of course the oil got diluted bad with fuel from idling it around on 36lb injectors with the stock tune, but I changed it before I dropped the car off with ED to get tuned. Maybe the lifters got damaged from that.

I'm hoping the lighter spring pressure will bring them back, but if not I'll be replacing the lifters next...
Will

I've had a million people asking me about these rocker covers ever since I let the first pics of my new LTX engine slip out a few months ago.

Well here they are in the car.

[IMG]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f303/rklessdriver/Corvette/DSC00841.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f303/rklessdriver/Corvette/DSC00842.jpg[/IMG]

On the engine stand.

[IMG]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f303/rklessdriver/Corvette/100_0340.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f303/rklessdriver/Corvette/100_0341.jpg[/IMG]

So after a full 2 weeks of driving the car around, my opinion of them can be described in only 2 words.

THEY SUCK.

They looked nice when new but they quickly spread out and started leaking. They will not stop leaking. They have bowed in at the top and the rails have spread out so far they will no longer hold the gasket in place on the head. The carbon weave is bubbling and seperating from the clear resin. I could go on and on about how bad they suck...

Do yourselves a favor and save the $370.00 for some nice rocker covers made from some type of metal. To replace these I bougt a set of the premiter bolt (18 degree style) Moroso fabricated alum valve covers with 1/4" billet rails and am in the process of chopping the front corner of the drivers side one up for the required dreaded LTX Alt clearance.

Such a shame to cover up all this beauty...

[IMG]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f303/rklessdriver/Corvette/DSC00849.jpg[/IMG]

I will post up some new pics when I've got them on the car.
Will

I'm still having freaking valve train problems. The car was making good power then just took a crap at 5800RPM. I have a boat load of dyno sheets and it's making 440RWHP at 5800RPM then taking a nose dive. Over 400RWTQ from 3800RPM until 5800RPM (DEAD FLAT TQ CURVE) where it suddenly just takes a dive....

[IMG]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f303/rklessdriver/Corvette/BillyWillams92Vette.jpg[/IMG]

Aparantly everybody who swore to me that Morel lifters would take 400lbs of valve spring over the nose (no problem) was full of crap. I pulled a valve cover (again) and my .620 lift cam is measuring just shy of .530 @the valve when its warmed up, I'm sure its doing wonders for the effective duration as well. When its cold I'm getting the full .620, but anythime the oil temp goes over 200F the lifters bleed down.

I've had this motor on an engine dyno quite a few times figuring out a valve float problem early on and my current springs solved that problem, I can't for the life of me figure out why the lifters are bleeding down, NOW that I've got it in the car. Maybe they got damaged from all the previous dyno time and finally failed.

SO Sweet!! I get to change valve springs (again), except this time motors in the car not on a dyno stand. PSI and my cam grinder are working with me and I've got a spring on the way that's 135lbs @1.800(seat) and 360lbs@1.150 (over the nose). Should solve the lifter bleed down problem but if not, I guess I'll be pulling the Intake, Rev Kit and replacing the Lifters.

At least the car runs and drives kinda.

I got the car back from Ed (The HP Factory) a few weeks ago and he has it tuned really well for WOT, but since I've still got single wire O2's, it won't go closed loop....

The driveability is pretty much crap with an open loop tune. He has a bunch of timing taken out at low throttle openings and the car goes from occasionally trying to die or spitting back and no power (under 1/4 throttle) to explosive wheel spin (anything over 1/4 throttle). Its like an on/off switch. Then to add insult to injury it just runs out of steam right when it should be pulling the hardest, althou you can't tell anything in the lower 3 gears because of the tune situation it just lights the tires up for no reason and anything approaching WOT results in an instant trip to the Rev Limiter. However if you get it hooked up in 3rd gear and slowly roll into the throttle you can feel it pin you in the seat right up to about 6000RPM where it slowly tapers off to the rev limiter at 7200RPM.

I really wish I had better results to post for myself (well at least Nolands engine turned out like I expected right). With a carb my engine dyno'd 608HP@6800RPM, and pulled cleanly well past 7400RPM once everything was sorted. If the freaking thing would keep pulling/climbing at the same rate it is pulling/climbing now on the chassis dyno, it would be right around 490-500RWHP@6800RPM.

I will keep everyone posted on what happens. I've got a few other little things I have to fix first (massive rocker cover leak, changing the dash cluster and wiring the car for heated O2's) that are pissing me off (even more than the valve springs/lifters) before I tackle chainging the springs/lifters.
Will

Josh
Sorry to hear about it.

I had Jeb do an single plane intake (Victor 2925) for my new LTX. I have to say I was expecting that "some fitting" was going to be needed on my part, but I ended up re-doing about 3/4 of what I bought from him to make it fit on the motor correctly. I'll also say for what I paid, I wasn't very happy with the workmanship.

I will also say he at least returned my calls and emails and tried to make it right. I do know he has had some health problems lately. If you PM me I'll give you the contact info I have for him.
Will

Nice site. I believe I already know everyone here at the party. I'll just show myself around if its OK.
Will