dan0617 wrote:
Man, I hope you just walk away from it for a while, come back to it in 6 months or a year. I was about ready to get rid of mine, now I'm very glad I didn't.

anesthes wrote:
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Josh wrote:
The full potential of the test? The test is done. The AFR's got the same treatment the TFS heads did. To compare numbers I may (or may not) achieve down the road gives the AFR heads an unfair advantage.

The car is for sale, $12,500. Black on black, 82000 miles, new motor, AFR heads, Centerforce clutch, Summers Brothers axles, etc...

I'm just burned out on the car. Time to move on.

C4's will do that to you. I know how you feel.

Thanks for investing all the time and money into performing the tests. Your documentation will live on for years.

Good luck on the next project. I suggest something with a solid rear axle, that won't cost $500+ every time a screw breaks.

-- Joe

Josh wrote:
The full potential of the test? The test is done. The AFR's got the same treatment the TFS heads did. To compare numbers I may (or may not) achieve down the road gives the AFR heads an unfair advantage.

The car is for sale, $12,500. Black on black, 82000 miles, new motor, AFR heads, Centerforce clutch, Summers Brothers axles, etc...

I'm just burned out on the car. Time to move on.

BrianCunningham wrote:
from Carlisle

SpectatorRacing wrote:
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BillH wrote:
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SpectatorRacing wrote:

These cars pop up for sale here and there, but most aren't worth it unless you like the history. You can build a much better car today for the money, and the cages, etc. will be much safer.

But Jon,But Jon, don't you have 2x the money in your car compared to what one of these cost?

I know you're just sticking the knife in deeper , but that's not quite an apples to apples comparison.

My car is a helluva lot faster (even accounting for tires) then these would be. I have probably three to five times more money in mine, but I'd say the breakdown on my expenditures (not counting initial price of car) is something like this:

40% Necessary, meaning safety equipment, gutting car, suspension, brakes, wiring, lexan windows, etc.

35% Motor, which you wouldn't have to do to make one of these

25% Repairs, with 75% of that being Optispark problems

For comparison, my buddy bought a C4 slightly more prepared than one of these cars for $13.5K last year before the economy tanked. This year you can get C4 race cars of various states of preparedness for less than $10K.

And to Brian's comment, why the hell would you buy one if you're not going to race it, vintage or otherwise? Nothing about the C4 (with the arguable exception of the ZR-1) is collectable unless you have a huge museum and a huge bankroll.

dan0617 wrote:
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88BlackZ51 wrote:
Dan he is running a manual tranny. It's a sports car, lol!

So, all these years of squabbling with Josh (Neat) on all these forums, and as soon as I come by you take his side on bashing autos. Sheesh.

J/K. Didn't realize he had a stick.

EricVonHa wrote:
This is the ZZ-X TPIS cam. .560"

dan0617 wrote:
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tpi421vett wrote:
Dan, I would bet you would surprise some people youself running 10's with a stock looking Vert!

That is exactly what I was going for when I put the car together. I will never bracket race it or anything, just wanted to keep it all stock looking and run fast, and even faster at the flip of a switch. To date the car is still 100% bone stock appearing on the outside except for stock LT1 exhaust tips instead of L98 tips, and the drag radials. Inside it is stock appearing except for the stereo and rear speakers and the bottle. Under the hood, different story!

BeachBum wrote:
I'm with you, I'm overdue for a complete new brake system.

Can I ask what that Wilwood system cost for all corners total ? I am considering doing some road racing this coming year and I know I'll need a serious brake upgrade, but I have no wisdom in this area besides the knowledge that you should push the peddle if you want to stop.

jonecap wrote:
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dan0617 wrote:
Full weight, which is 3520 with me in car. Asking me my weight, getting nervous are ya??? Runnin a 250 shot now and pullin hard. Auto with converter stalled for nitrous, no clutch slipping for me. I can read a playboy while driving down the track ahead of you.

Be careful stickin' that chest out stick boy, my friend with the '98 Cobra running 17 lbs boost and water/meth did the same thing. He ended up bending a shift fork in his Tremec and later admitted it was because he was tired of looking at my taillights over and over again so he tried too hard. Alot can be said for a properly stalled auto and a car that dead hooks on every launch.

And yes, per your request, I'll buy and send you a pink sharpie to use.

This should be interesting, but I think Josh might have your number. I ran a 10.75 at 128 in bad air on a stock bottom end/stock heads LT4 with a hotcam, ET Streets, 150 shot, and a Centerforce clutch with Josh filming the run at the same track he runs at. With his new set up, Josh should be at least 3 to 4 tenths faster than that on a 150 shot. I suspect with a 250 shot he would see low 10's.

The only way to tell for sure is to get it to the track!

10.75 @ 128 nitrous pass - 6.91 in the 1/8 mile

bogus wrote:
OK... You are really looking to raise the dead.

I am going to watch this thread like a hawk, if it goes bad, I will lock and tow it in an instant.

I am not in the mood to relive this. He is now the problem of the yellowbullet admin, not me.

BeachBum wrote:
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dan0617 wrote:

Rick, maybe we can get you in on this beer buying and timeslip signing wager. Todd is in and he is in Texas. I'll be mailing him my timeslip to sign, I'll just have him mail it directly to you to sign, then you can mail it back to me. Just make sure you don't sign over Josh's signature, I need that to show up when I scan it in!!

Not only am I going to beat you, I'm going to do it naturally aspirated.

You'll have to ship me those beers, I'm too far away to join in the fun.... I drink Vielle Bon Secours, its my favorite, if you're unsure where to get it, here's a link.

http://www.socyberty.com/Lifestyle-Ch ... Most-Expensive-Beer.40307

Josh wrote:
They won't let you run at MIR regardless of the day. You'll get one pass, they'll tell you not to go that fast again, then you'll get booted. It's one of the strictest tracks I've ever ran at.

Work will have me in the Baltimore area a ton over the next year or so. A trip to PA isn't out of the question, how are the tracks there as far as tech is concerned? Can you run there without issues?

I rib Rick because he's a dip shit. It doesn't have anything to do with knowing him, my fist size, or anything. The guy is a jackass. Plain and simple. Occasionally, I'll get tired of his shenanigans and bust him a bit.

Dan seems cool, and unlike dip shit actually mods his car. I got no problems with the guy.

I'm still stuck out of town for work, I won't be back until Monday. The car should be up and running shortly after I get back, assuming I don't have to travel anymore for the next few weeks.

BeachBum wrote:
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88BlackZ51 wrote:
Looks good so far Todd!


So what's the meat and potato's of this combination for the guru's?

So far I know it's a 436 sbc, and AFR 227cc?

I might have a few pics of my own this weekend.

Rick, its a Boiler plate 436, AFR 227, MR, hyd roller baby grind..... should be street friendly, but hold its own at the strip as well. We shall see.

dan0617 wrote:
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BrianCunningham wrote:
Congrats on the 10 sec run!

Don't know how long the D36 will last though.

I'm babying it on the launch and getting a mid 1.5 60'.

Future plans is solid rear and a nitrous launch, and likely water-meth injection and a 250 shot (up from 200), if I keep it that long. It's burning me out!

Would be cool to get it in the 9's though!