^^I'm not sure I would be going to a smaller diameter rim vs a larger 17", 18" or even 19" wheel....


Looky looky at what I found....http://www.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=892552#

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$151.98 for a set of four

True Dat....

I told a story a few weeks ago to someone.....

When I was a kid (20s or so) for info...I had three guys I knew in my small town that I went to. If I was trying to figure out something technical....I used to have to drive over and BS with that person for ~20 minutes and then ask them........"How do you fix [insert whatever]" and they would give me their opinion.

This may take all day if the first two didn't have a good answer....

But that is how I used to have to learn things new.

Now days it takes roughly 5 minutes to bring up a topic and learn from some real pro's.

That D36 issue was pretty frustrating however, The common fix for the D36 is......Dump it and put in a D44. No one "Fixes" a D36. Or they send it in to guys like J&S

You ask which Valve spring for ?? Type head and you get 50 answers in 14 minutes, you ask about that snap ring and it may take a while.

We have real pro's here at Guru, but that certain pro may be gone on a business trip (LOL) just when you need his/her help.....

But anyway, yes this is what forums are about.

And I've met some really neat folks like CentralCoaster and Bogus through the Forums. Those two are Top notch types that I am honored to know.

J&S Gear
18222 Gothard
Huntington Beach Ca
(714) 841-4545

Restomod, remember the guy in Huntington Beach?? You spoke to him on the phone.

That is the guy you need for those types of obscure parts. He has them all, and usually in stock.

When you say you are "putting it up for the winter" Where is it stored? Can you not get to it where you can start it once per month?

If so, just start it and let it warm up....forget the rest of the issues as they really don't amount to much.

What is TGO?

Quote:
LOL....hrrmmmmm I wonder why???

What could it possibly be?? I mean surely adding a 10% flow to the INTAKE would increase the over CFM of the motor wouldn't it??

LOL

This whole thread is the reason I used to make 112% on my Physics exams in College.

Ever hear of the Bell curve? If 40% of the class "should" make a "C" grade or 70% watch what happens to my true 80% score

10% should get an A
20% should get a B
40% should get a C
20% should get a D
10% should get an F

Well what happened when the 40% turned a true "F" score on a test?? The Professor would award enough points to the entire class (including me with my true "B") in order to bring the 40% up to a "C" level....therefore I got 30 points tacked on to my "B".....making it an A+++

See my thread on D36s. See what the Tech with 25 years said about swapping the D36s for D44s....I'll hint...He scoffed at the idea.

here is a link

http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... pe=&topic_id=7466&forum=1

Well, we got into conductance and things that impede conductance.

One thing is a longer tube.....so that gadget that the OP posted is an impedance...albeit small...but it is adding length to the area where the inlet (in this case the throttle body) has to pull the air from.

That is where the whole thing got sidetracked. Folks questioned this idea of conductance and impedance.

Vacuum technology designed the Roots Blower to address what you do. The Roots technology was then adopted to IC motors as a form of Forced induction.





It is all the same technology.

The only difference between vacuum folks and IC motor heads is the propulsion of the system. And as a matter of discussion, there is a 4 cylinder vacuum pump called "The Ecodry"



This is literally a four cylinder motor with an Electric motor used for propulsion......the four pistons move up and down just like a horizontally opposed Porsche or VW air cooled engine.

Here is a vacuum Roots

Quote:
Let's just play a little game.

Let's use Central Coasters CocaCola straw in our game.

First let me state that in a condition where the straw is sitting on a counter top all by itself.....there is NO CFM. You have to have a pressure differential on one side versus the other for there to be any measurable flow......but at what point do we find the maximum??

We take 1000psi on one end and no obstructions on the other end....

We open the full 1000psi into the straw (and just for our game we understand the straw doesn't explode). Once the full 1000psi is exposed to one end.......we can measure the CFM coming out the other end.....

We want more CFM so we increase the psi to 2000.....Lo! it is still only flowing the measured CFM that came out under 1000psi.

OK, so we now know that increasing pressure on one side does not equate to more flow.....let's decrease the pressure on the other side of the straw and see if that helps..

So we pull (to use a Motor head term) 29 inches of mercury on the outlet side of that straw.....will we increase the amount of flow?? Surely we will.....

The answer is no. The CFM of the straw is determined by it's physical properties...not by the amount of upstream pressure or downstream vacuum once the amount of flow is measured.

Fast forward, let's place that straw into an intake of a motor.....a nice V8. We know that the straw has a measured CFM.....how much CFM would we measure coming out of the tailpipes of our V8??

I'm thinkin' it would be equal to what is going through the straw.

So, We take our V8 apart and bore out the cylinder walls and put in bigger valves and larger cam....we put it all back together and we measure the CFM coming out of the tailpipes again....however this time!!!

It is equal in CFM to what we can get through that damn straw....

The CFM of the entire system will never ever change until you address the fact that there is a CocaCola straw throttling the system.

But But But.....there are no more "Buts" or even "Yeah Buts"

"even if".......Even if you stand on your head and do a can can dance wearing a clown suit.....The CFM of that engine will be determined by the physical properties and the CFM of the smallest orifice in that system....in our game that orifice is the CocaCola straw.

And don't take my word for it. Google it up yourself...it is called Conductance. You EEs out there deal with electrical conductance all day long....and fully understand it.....this is the exact same thing.

Quote:
Now you are entering into fluid dynamics and molecular flow. remember my first statement, I'm not going into that portion. Once you start moving gasses then yes...there are many other factors that come into play. So I can see why the top one would interrupt.

Look at it this way, the top one creates backwash of molecules that other molecules have to fight against to get in. That is a very simplified explanation...but if you've ever been to the beach.....a larger than normal wave hits the beach and water runs up the sand.....as that water is running back down the sand, another wave is trying to come in....but its power is offset by gravity pulling the first large wave back down the sand....therefore that 2nd wave just peters out....

Fluid dynamics starts the debate about how long the intake runners should be....why do you think that LT? intake is so funny looking?

It is the length that it is because they want the valve to close....causing a backlash of flow....that backlash runs all the way back and hits the other side...in which case it is flowing the correct direction and a "Wave" now hits the valve just as it is opening.......forcing more gas and oxygen mix to enter the piston.

Other tuners use the runners and tune them for this very phenom. Fluid dynamic engineers come up with these designs.

Quote:
Oh! So close....So so very very close

LOL, and the rest of your post just made me laugh.

So you understand to start with the most restrictive part of the system...you just cannot make the leap that that part dictates the total or absolute CFM of the entire system.

Ok, have it your way. LOL

And, I love you to CC..hugs all around.

^^You are just failing to make the connection.

A IC engine is one big vacuum pump.....it works off of sucking in air.

Where the energy to rotate the crank comes from is all that you are having trouble connecting. In our case we use that combustion to to drive the piston downward. thereby turning a crank that has another piston attached that is.......

....here it come........

...........sucking in or creating a vacuum.

There are all kinds of vacuum pumps in the world. Some are Capture pumps and some are throughput pumps.

Our IC engine is a throughput pump.

Just the other day I was in a lab and there was a small "Compressor/vacuum pump" The difference only lies in where you place your attachment. If we attached to the exhaust side...it was a compressor. If we attached to the inlet side, it was vacuum pump.

The physics never change.

So now you understand that "somehow" we are rotating a crank with pistons and valves, You also understand that at idle there are "inches of mercury" to be measured at the throttle point. The only thing you need "in your mind" to make it a pseudo vacuum pump would to be to hook a huge electric motor onto the crank and run it that way.

Now you have a system that would be purely vacuum pump right?

Well there are many ways to run a motor...IC.....Jet propulsion.....external Electric....Turbo charged....

Back to the point of IC motors, you clearly understand that opening the intake runners on my X-fire would help??

This is consistent with the laws of physics that I just posted.

If you have a Cat that has collapsed, it is a clear restriction in flow. You know instinctively that you need to clear that restriction......same Laws of Physics I just posted

All you need to do is accept the one single premise that was posted twice. The lowest CFM orifice dictates the absolute CFM of the entire system.

That Fact remains even when discussing IC engines. If you measure your IC engine CFM at WOT you get a number......if you measure it a idle, you get another lower number.....

What changed?

The size of the orifice at the Throttle body......

Nothing else changed.....the piston bore, the valve size/number....the intake ID...the exhaust chamber ID....All stayed the same...and unless you open that throttle Body....the CFM will never change

The reason? As idle the TB is closed and we can calculate that flow in that state, we increase the CFM and RPM by opening that throttled orifice

All the dynamics are exactly the same as what I posted previously.

It's fun to relate the physical properties in cross technologies....the Physics never change...the applications (what we are trying to accomplish) can change dramatically.

And in my travels around here in SoCal....many Physics Majors are also Motor heads. You'll see them driving some Taurus on a daily basis...but on Fridays you might catch them driving their 70s muscle car to work.

Conductance Calculations

Please see the information on VacTran, the computer modeling program that calculates conductances and creates virtual vacuum systems.

Using a formula he derived, Dushman calculated the conductances for cylindrical tubes based on their measured dimensions, producing the table below. The equation may err by as much as 12% for systems in free molecular flow (see J. Vac. Sci. Tech., Vol. 4, No.3, page 338). However, given the uncertainties and errors in measuring effective pumping speeds, base pressure, gas load, etc., this level of error is mostly insignificant.

Using Dushman's Table

* Measure the overall length of the tube in any convenient units.
* Measure the tube ID in the same units.
* Divide the ID by 2 to give the radius.
* Divide the length by the radius. This gives the 'L/a' ratio used in Dushman's table.
* Convert the radius to centimeters. This gives the 'a(cm)' used in Dushman's table.
* Enter the numeral at the appropriate 'a' row.
* Go right until under the value of the calculated 'L/a' ratio. If the exact number is not available, use the next larger 'L/a' or interpolate. This gives the conductance value of a straight cylindrical tube in liters/second.

Go here for the chart http://www.lesker.com/newweb/technical_info/conductance_calc.cfm



Adopting some general rules, Dushman's results can be applied to tubes of other cross-sections. The results will not be totally accurate, but, since the calculated conductances are likely underestimated, it is often worthwhile to use them.

* For tubes with right-angle bends, measure 'L' as the shortest distance shown (see drawing on the right). Calculate the conductance from the table as if the tube were straight, then divide the conductance by 2 for every right-angle bend.
* For tubes with rectangular or square cross-section (or even the annulus between two tubes), calculate the open area and find the radius of a cylindrical tube with an equal open area. Calculate the conductance of this 'equivalent tube' using Dushman's table.
* If the diameter changes along the length of the tube, use the smallest diameter to calculate 'a'. (Doh!)

Conductance Conclusions

When designing a vacuum system or changing components in an existing one, always attempt to maximize conductance. In any high-vacuum situation, keep these points in mind:

* It is all too easy to lower conductance accidentally.
* Make all tubes and components as short as possible and as open (with large diameters) as possible.
* The part with the smallest conductance determines the maximum conductance.
* In high-vacuum or UHV applications, the concept of the conductance being too high has no meaning. The converse, however -- a conductance 'too low' -- happens all too frequently.

Quote:
Dude, c'mon man, learn something today...I know you aren't too old....

You teach me all sorts of shit...All the time!!!!

well today is my day....I am introduced in circles as a vacuum physicist....I lending you years of education on this subject and trying to distill it down for all to learn.

And Marketing of gadgets rarely includes physics.

A straw will have a calculated

or

Pumping Speed and Throughput. The speed of a pump is the volume of gas flow across the cross section of the tubing per unit time. The standard units are liters/second. Since the density of a gas changes with pressure (i.e. the mass or number of molecules of gas in a given volume) an important measure is mass flow or throughput which is the product of pressure and speed with the units of Torr-liters/second. If you think of the vacuum system as an electrical circuit, throughput is like current flow and it is constant everywhere in the circuit. The various elements of the system (lines and pumps) are analogous to resistances except instead of voltage drops there are pressure differentials. In putting together a vacuum system you want minimal pressure differentials in the connecting lines and maximum throughput everywhere.

A simple example will pull this together. Consider a small diffusion pump that has a rated inlet speed of 100 liters/second at 0.0001 Torr (0.1 mTorr). The throughput would be 100 x 0.0001 or 0.01 Torr-liters/sec. Now, connected to the outlet of the diffusion pump we have a mechanical forepump which is capable of maintaining a pressure of 0.1 Torr. Given the fact that throughput at the diffusion pump inlet must equal throughput at the outlet and that there is a pressure of 0.1 Torr at that outlet, the minimum speed of the forepump must be 0.1 liters/sec, a speed easily met by even very small mechanical pumps. On the other hand, if the diffusion pump inlet pressure is 0.01 Torr (10 mTorr) - say just after the pump is started or if it is working against a very gassy load - the forepump would have to have a speed of 10 liters/sec to allow the diffusion pump to work at full speed. This would be a large pump.

To summarize all of this, at high diffusion pump inlet pressures, the speed most likely will be constrained by the speed of the forepump. At low inlet pressures there is so little mass flow that a very small forepump can keep pace with even a large high vacuum pump. In fact, in a tight system you can shut off the forepump once a low enough pressure has been reached simply because so little mass remains in the system.

Conductance of Tubing. As mentioned above, the tubing in a vacuum system can represent a significant resistance. When one end of a tube is connected to a pump, that end of the tube will have a higher pumping speed than will the other end. For viscous flow, as would be the nominal case for roughing lines (i.e. mechanically pumped), the conductance, C, is dependent upon gas pressure and viscosity and, at room temperature and air, is (for a tube diameter of D cm, length of L cm and at an average pressure of P Torr):
C = 180 x D4/L x P (liters/sec)

An example would be a foreline of 2 cm diameter and 60 cm long. At one end is a venerable Cenco Megavac pump; the other end is connected to the outlet of a diffusion pump. Referring to the manufacturer's literature for the pump we find that the pumping speed of the roughing pump is 0.5 liter/sec at 100 mTorr, the maximum recommended foreline pressure of the diffusion pump. Plugging in the numbers, we find that the line conductance is 4.8 liters/sec. Thus, the line is not limiting the capabilities of the forepump.

Interestingly, pressure is not a factor in the molecular flow regime where, for example, a diffusion pump would operate. Here we have:
C = 12 x D3/L (liters/sec)

An example here would be a 2 inch (5 cm) diffusion pump which has a specified inlet pumping speed of 100 liters/sec. The pump is connected to a small experiment chamber through 60 cm of 2.5 cm diameter tubing. Inserting the numbers, we find a line conductance of only 3.1 liters/sec. This may be adequate for the small chamber but it certainly throttles the pump significantly. If a 5 cm line were substituted (same length) the conductance would rise to 25 liters/sec. In either case, the most important thing to bear in mind is that conductance is strongly influenced by the tube diameter. 1 cm to the third or fourth power is a whole lot less than 3 cm to the same powers. The bottom line is: go for fat tubes, and keep them short, particularly in high vacuum lines.

Quote:
Nice example, yes your kitchen faucet has a maximum amount of flow regardless of the pressure behind it. Once you calculate the amount that faucet will flow.....that is the "flow" of your system...and until you address the smallest orifice (in your case, the faucet) adding larger diameter pipes in front of it will never do any good.

Back to internal combustion engines, they are vacuum pumps....

Pumping Speed
Of the numbers used to characterize a vacuum system, pumping speed is the most fundamental. Unfortunately, it is a common mistake to accept the pump manufacturer's quoted pumping speed as if it were the effective pumping speed from the chamber.

This error is easily exposed. Think of two identical pumps and chambers: one set is connected via a short, wide-diameter tube; the other is connected by a long, narrow tube. Which arrangement pumps the chamber faster and why?

From the first great principle, 'vacuum doesn't suck', we know that gas molecules enter the pumping mechanism via a series of random collisions with each other and with chamber walls. The narrower the tube, the lower the probability that a molecule will enter it. The longer the tube, the greater the chance of the molecule hitting a wall while passing through. But molecules, unlike light, do not bounce off walls at the same angle as they arrive. They are just as likely to bounce backward as forward.

That is, the shorter, wider connection gives the faster pump-down, since its higher conductance leads to a higher effective pumping speed from the chamber.
Effective Pumping Speed
If we attach a 500 L/s pump to a chamber with a 500 L/s conductance port, what is the effective pumping speed (EPS) from the chamber. Before calculating, let us set some limits intuitively:

* A 500L/s pump is connected to the chamber by some magical 'infinite' conductance port, would the pump's pumping speed be affected?


Answer - No. EPS is 500 L/s
* Two 500L/s pumps are connected to the same chamber by separate, 'infinite' conductance ports, what is the EPS?

Answer - EPS is 1000 L/sec.
* A 500L/s pump is connected to the chamber by a 500L/sec port, would the EPS be higher or lower than 500L/sec?

Answer - Lower.

This indicates that adding pumping speed and conductance in series lowers the overall pumping speed, while adding them in parallel increases the pumping speed. This sounds identical to the series/parallel connections of electrical capacitances. Indeed, pumping speeds (PS) and conductances (C) are added to give effective pumping speed (EPS) using exactly the same mathematic form as capacitances. To calculate series connection of chamber and pump noted above:

1/EPS = 1/PS + 1/C

Substituting the numbers from our initial example, we find 1/EPS = 1/500 + 1/500
1/EPS = 2/500
1/EPS = 1/250

EPS = 250 liter per sec That is, when the pumping speed and conductance are of equal value, the effective pumping speed is half the quoted pumping speed. Newcomers to vacuum technology, and even some old-timers, are surprised by this number.

Adding other components only worsens the problem. For example, what if we put an LN2 trap with 500L/sec conductance between the port and pump?

1/EPS = 1/500 + 1/500 + 1/500
1/EPS = 3/500
1/EPS = 1/167

EPS = 167 liter per sec

Clearly, using the quoted PS as the effective PS will cause serious errors in estimating base pressure and pump down time.

Now, we will take the ridiculous situation and connect a 2000L/sec pump to a chamber by a tube with 10L/sec conductance and calculate the EPS. 1/EPS = 1/2000 + 1/10
1/EPS = 201/2000
1/EPS = 1/9.95

EPS = <10 liter per sec

Conclusions

One critical fact should be extracted from this segment. The effective pumping speed never exceeds the value of the minimum conductance (or pumping speed) of the individual parts that are stacked together. Expressed differently, if one component in the stack has a 10L/sec conductance, the effective pumping speed cannot exceed 10L/sec even if a 2,000,000L/sec pump is attached to it! (Remember - vacuum doesn't suck!

The entire systems CFM is dictated by the maximum CFM of the smallest orifice.

Whether that restriction is located in the exhaust, valve train, intake...that is the question.

From my Vacuum pump/Airflow days.....the amount of airflow is dictated by the smallest orifice.

It makes no difference what you have upstream in calculating conductance, the smallest orifice conductance is the MOST you'll get through that system.

And what is an Internal Combustion Engine?? A large vacuum pump.....

Now if you get into fluid dynamics and intake runners lengths calculated to maximize a "wave" created by valves opening and closing...that is another subject....

But stating that the shape of an opening flange not effected by fluid dynamics will make a difference...that is pure BS.

And as a matter of fact, Length of the inlet piping will IMPEDE conductance.

Look at this way, you have a flange that is sucking in air.....The more tubing you place on that flange, the less conductance will be.....if you place a bend in the inlet pipe...now it is worse.

In the vacuum industry, the Flow of the vacuum pump is always measured with the Pump mounted directly......in other words with no restrictions from any plumbing. So when you look at vacuum pump specs, you know that....e.g. you have a 10CFM pump......If you start that pump up while it is sitting on the floor...it will pump 10CFM.....but once you hook it your system....it will be something less than 10cfm......the diameter, length, the amount of bends...the radius of the bends all are needed for calculating what that CFM will be......Upstream or downstream pressure IS NOT CALCULATED AS IT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE. The CFM is what is no matter.....

So now, back to that little mod.....does it not seem like it is lengthening the amount of travel of that inlet? So based on what I posted (physical properties), would it not seem that actually opening or shortening the opening do more to enhance the CFM of that inlet? That thing increases the length......

Just saved you $30

Ahhhhhhh

I see what you are saying......

Do Adapters get too long for safety?

Matatk, thanks, we're starting to educate...that is what I am after here.

on your parting note, Find me a set of tires and wheels that can be had for $400-$600....Take-offs are always the deal to be had. Right now the C6 wheels are pretty prevalent from folks pulling them off their brand new vette. All you have to do is look around.

Years ago, I made a ton of money relieving the Cadillac dealers for their Stocker 17" Escalade take-offs. Those wheels seem to multiply like rabbits back then....

I'd give $200 for a set and drive them over to the Chevy Dealership and sell them for $400

The Chevy used car manager was getting brand new tires and upgraded wheels for less than what a set of tires would cost.

You don't say why.....

You know....You know I must know "why".....

OK guys, let's talk "Adapters" vs "Spacers" with longer lug nuts.

No one seems to want to share their knowledge on the subject over 'there'

http://www.dougrippie.com/drm/wheel_components.htm

That's a lot of Blower only to cut Do-Nuts in the parking lot.

I'll state this for anyone experiencing this same thing.

It seemed to me that the only way to really address that upside down question mark looking hose....the only way to get to it was to take the pump off. So that is what I did. I figured that so many had trouble with the High pressure hose that....."While I was in there" ......I would take care of it as well.

I had to destroy that old hose to get it off.

I feel better now that I have three new "dry" hoses down there.

So I took it all apart, and then let it slide for a month.

I was really busy, my 8 year olds Soccer team was in the play-offs and we won league Champs. I am the coach so I was really busy with my spare time being devoted to the team.

What was cool is, my 14 year old Son got tired of seeing the P/S pump, Alternator, P/S Res and Smog pump lying all over the garage floor.

He is so good with his hands

He yells at me that He is going to put it all back. I said OK, use these new craftsman Hose wrenches and put this hose here...etc....

Ya know what? That damn kid almost got the whole thing done in an afternoon. It's not often a person can look at something they didn't tear apart, and be able to successfully piece it together.

Understand, this is the type of kid that when He was five, you could give him a 1000 piece Lego kit, He'd take it up to his room and three hours later he'd come down and have the exact duplicate of what was on the cover.....never asking for bit of help during the process.

Anyway, we got it all put back together.

I think I over filled it when it was full of air. The first night, I think It must have overflowed or something because there was a lot of fluid on the ground. When I checked the Res, it was full of bubbles and the thing was groaning like it was empty, put that was due to all the air bleeding out of the system.

I thought due to the fluid that we didn't do something right and I was going to have to redo it all.

But then, the next few nights it was dry under there and the fluid level is perfect.

So maybe we got it right the first time.

All Three hoses, the entire system cleaned up is what we did.

Thanks for you Guru's help....

Talk to the Driveline specialist and see if there is not a Cap that can be ordered to take up the slop.

Rockforddriveline.com is the closest one

I also wanted to add, beware of the shop you are using. They could use this issue to milk you for work not needed. They could be blaming all sorts of stuff on the Chip and no one is there to defend the chip...therefor the Shop gets to charge for all sorts of goodies.

That is what I meant by "too many Cooks"

Look Dale, understand the Datalog issue is important. If they cannot get the feedback from it, how can they help any further? This in input they need and you don't have the tools or the ability to get that info back to the factory.

Two schools of thought here.

1) should they have fully disclosed this prior to the sale?? Should they "qualify" you prior to selling you something you wanted? What if they asked you if you fully understood the Datalog issue and you replied "no"......then they told you that they won't sell you a chip due to you not being qualified as a competent tuner..........That would have sent you through the roof....

2) As a "Sales Engineer" for highly technical products, I sell things all the time that could most likely go this way as the end user is not competent enough to fully understand the product they "think" they wanted.

I mean at that point.....what do I do?? Drive over there and educate some PhD on what a Photon is and how to excite and then count a single Photon??? That info should have been absorbed during the education process of the the individual earning the PhD.

I'm not being a butthole by any means, but at some point a vendor has to rely on the end user having a minimum amount of understanding of the product they are buying.

They ask you for a Datalog and you state that you don't have the tools to provide this......What can they do from that point forward? Drive/fly over to your place and obtain the Datalog themselves?

Sorry Dale, hate me if you will, I'm just presenting another side of this issue for you to consume.

I don't know anything about switching chips or Datalogs or tuning or PCMforless or Alvin or mseven......I'm just stating what I deal with almost on a daily basis with tech products and Engineers (some even at NASA) that buy things they don't fully understand. When they can't figure it out by clicking shit on the software.....they then get frustrated with me for "giving" them what they said they wanted and want me to issue an RMA. Our product is performing just as advertised yet we are supposed to take it back and shelf it when we did nothing wrong.....we only provided what a legally binding Purchase Order told us to do.

Too many cooks.....

I wonder if the Oil pan still holds oil....

This Story has made it to FOX news now.....waiting to hear the story

I heard his name is Andy House and he has a business that rebuilds high end cars.

I'll find out his name and back story in a few minutes...I'm from Lufkin.....it's a small town

I also wanted to state that since you can get a replacement motor for $35...that is definitely the way to go.

If you had the old "ribbon style" regulators, I'd say you were wasting your time and just buy a new regulator assembly like Jeffvette posted.....but since you don't.....a little time and TLC versus spending $35 rather than $150......now your talking my language.

Buy your own rivot gun



Self-Opening Blind Rivet Gun
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Includes four nosepieces for 1/16'', 5/64'', 3/32'', and 1/8'' sizes and 30 piece rivet assortment
Shipping weight: 1.3 lbs.


ITEM 7356-2VGA

$4.99

when a new complete regulator is $100 why bother?

Lemme clarify that by saying, I'll try to rebuild things to save a buck or two......so I know why...

How much will you spend on a new motor?

When I took out all of the bolts, I had to whack the batwing to get it to separate from the case.

I'll bet you could take out a single bolt and nothing would happen.

This doesn't address your question, I just thought I'd tell you my experience.

Like these, these are $285 for all four....Wheels, Tires, Lugs, Caps..everything you need. These aren't the most desired ones out there..but they are so cheap it is tempting.

Here is "why".

I need new Rear tires. I also think at this point I MUST have a bent wheel....plus the wheels I have are really dated.

Three things...simple solution.

Find some take-offs that have tires...they sell all day for $400 as set with decent tires. Some are C6 wheels that have tires with 300 miles on them.

I've not pulled the trigger on buying any of them until I get this spacer thing fully under control.

That's what I'm doing. I'll spend another $300 on rear tires and have the same thing I've been unhappy with for ever.

Hey!! Buy some take-offs that are a design that I like!! Multiple problems solved in one single move

So $300 is my starting point.....I'll spend maybe $500 total before I start getting butt hurt over the issue. But there is no way I'll spend money on New wheels and tires......$1500?? No way...not my style.

Which C5 wheels do you have?? Are they wearing any shoes??

So, Here is a "kit" for $81 on Amazon (I believe there are two in the kit)



It has the open Lugs that you described.

It looks as though....IF you had your Studs the correct length, these lug nuts would sit inside the adapter.

Shade tree would be to put the spacer on and then using a cut-off wheel you could take the extra length off of the Studs......

^^So this "IS" What I need??

The Guys at J & D only had One thickness but the website I stole that image from had three different sizes.

OK, So I was at J & D Vette today, they had these Spacers that first bolted to your existing lugs and then the spacer had it's own lugs.....They were $140 Each....not to mention that lug nut that was on the spacer had to have a cavity to fit into on the inside of the wheel you are trying to use.



Somehow this is not what I pictured nor is it what I've been told.

Quote:
Holy Smokes, $39 at J & D Vettes

Aight, I'll check with them in the morning.

I ordered that High Pressure hose from Kragen, is there anything I need to be watching for on that one?

Where do I get one?? Stealership?

AND since it is sitting on the Garage floor, should I put in a new (rebuilt)pump?

Quote:

Sorry Bogus, you gave the info and I ignored or forgot it

Aight...So here we are...what 11 months later almost??

I get the procrastination award without a doubt.

So here is what has transpired. I never did get to the leaky power steering...I just put a pan underneath to catch it......well the underside of the car is pretty much coated by now.

Then that smog pump went south. I pulled off the PS tank to get the Smog pump out and I guess I just kept digging. I pulled off the Alternator today and there was the PS pump. I started pulling the hoses and I noticed that I was down to just one more bolt holding the thing in....So.....

...While you are there.....

I figured if that high pressure hose was the one leaking I might as well get that replaced as well.

Holy Smokes...You'd think I was trying to storm the beaches at Omaha.....NONE of those line wrenches fit...I went to Kragen to buy an SAE set...but guess what size that fitting is that goes into the rack??? An 18mm is the ONLY Size that fits. And no kit comes with an 18mm line wrench.....No the SAE DID NOT FIT so don't start with me.

So getting the HP hose out of the pump itself...tow fittings a 3/4" with a 5/8" into it....why?? I dunno it just is...

So get this, one side of the hose has a 5/8" fitting and the other is an 18mm.....figure that one out sports fans.

When I went to Kragen I ordered the HP Hose...it'll be in Tomorrow...but since they cannot figure out the two other hoses, I'll be they get me the wrong HP hose.

Lemme ask you guys this. There are two hoses that go up to the fill tank.....WHAT is the larger diameter one called??.....for a better explanation...look at the bottom of your PS steering tank, there are two....the large one is what I am asking about. The small one is already purchased and ready to back in.

So that is my Sunday.

I'll look at it before I put it back in. I'm digging things out of the way to get to the Power Steering pump in order to change the leaky hoses....So it'll Sunday before I get to installing the new smog pump.