All Posts (jhammons01)
Re: Dana 36 Guru's step inside |
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Are you still writing a book?
Posted on: 2009/10/29 21:31
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Re: Power Steering Pump Experts, step inside |
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^^yup the front is pressed in.....how do you remove the fins?? Cut them off with a dremmel?
And change the title to this thread..... "Smog Pump thread"
Posted on: 2009/10/29 18:52
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Re: The "will these wheels fit" thread |
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Translate this for me. I know nothing about spacers as I have never had to deal with them.
Posted on: 2009/10/29 2:04
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Re: Power Steering Pump Experts, step inside |
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Naw, that bearing is pressed into place. I couldn't figure out how to get it apart.
I guess for $60 it is easier to get another pump and put it in.
Posted on: 2009/10/29 2:01
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Re: *UPDATE* Tried the WD40 - IAC trick (1992 LT1) |
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Oh, you guys will get a kick outa this one.....
Yesterday, I helped a kid (My sons friend)with a hand me down bike. The Bike had been sitting outside for a few years. The cheap front shocks were frozen/stuck. I told my kid to get the WD40, then I sprayed some on the shocks, told the kid that it may take until the next day for the shocks to come loose..... Another kid that was watching (14 years old or so) He grabs the can and looks at it...."What is this stuff" I looked at my kid.......His mouth was open as well. The kid had never heard of WD40 Symptomatic of growing up in Irvine....no one here bothers to try to work on anything themselves.
Posted on: 2009/10/26 16:02
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Re: Pull computer to add fluid to the clutch? |
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That system should be self bleeding......Pump it a few times and see what you get.....even after it runs dry this seemed to work for me.
Look at the through rod on the inside of the cabin, you may see some fluid...if you do, you may want to mop it up before it eats paint or whatever else.
Posted on: 2009/10/21 18:04
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Re: Power Steering Pump Experts, step inside |
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I'm afraid to guess at this point... J/K, it is the smog pump again. I think this time, I am going to tear this one open and see if I can get to that bearing. I know that NAPA has all sizes of 'good' bearings...you just have to be resourceful and be able to get to the old one....... It's like that time I rebuilt the tensioner on my serp belt. Supposedly it is not repairable and it is put together with rivets. A new one is $55 but the bearing itself is from NAPA was only ~$10 The bearing was not a "listed" available part for the tensioner, we were able to measure the OD and the ID of the bearing and find a suitable replacement from the "bin o bearings" that NAPA has. I think I'm going to tear into this smog pump and look prior to buying another CARDONE rebuilt smog pump that will only last 18 months.
Posted on: 2009/10/21 17:45
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Re: Power Steering Pump Experts, step inside |
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I have to resurrect this thread yet again....
The Bearing is out in this pump...I put it in March of '08. Sheesh....
Posted on: 2009/10/21 3:30
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Re: Pull computer to add fluid to the clutch? |
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Next time, put the fluid in a syringe, then place a hose over the tip of the syringe. Squeeze away....
Isn't this the one that leaks into the cabin?? When you get around to pulling the MC, you'll see where the fluid leaked into the cabin where the rod comes through the firewall.
Posted on: 2009/10/20 17:36
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Re: *UPDATE* Tried the WD40 - IAC trick (1992 LT1) |
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Just time and History....nothing more than that. I've never used BP Blaster at all, but it seems that a lot of folks do. I've been using WD40 since the 70s. Pragmatism makes me stick to things that have served me well over the years.
Posted on: 2009/10/15 2:13
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Re: *UPDATE* Tried the WD40 - IAC trick (1992 LT1) |
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Vegetable oil has a lubricating property as well, but that does not mean I should Crisco to lube something. WD40 is a great solvent, but it is a poor choice for lubricating moving parts. I'd use WD40 over PB Blaster anytime....and I always have a can....and I DO use it on guns for coating them as you do engine blocks......but not as a lubricant. ( My dad has been using WD40 on his Rifles for ~50 years and they all look pristine, results always go against what the 'experts' state) Someone mentioned triflow. So no, I am not "Against" WD40, and if you reread what I said, WD40 collects dust and then falls off of whatever "moving" part you put it on......exposing it to oxidation.
Posted on: 2009/10/13 13:48
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Re: Group Purchase on Banski MotorSports Rod End Rear Suspension |
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Torque specs and Bolt tightening sequence....Some have never heard of either....
Posted on: 2009/10/12 15:15
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Re: Project update |
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Holy smokes!! Talk about "Going through" one.....
Hai, I gotsa idea.....now would be a good time to swap out that heater core........
Posted on: 2009/10/11 15:52
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Re: *UPDATE* Tried the WD40 - IAC trick (1992 LT1) |
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let's return to the basics
WD40 used on a bicycle chain will clean it and make it smooth but then the WD40 collects dust and falls off leaving the chain to rust. Using WD40 in any other capacity in place of a lube will do the same whether it is on the 3 year olds bike chain or the space shuttle. So yeah, you get the benefit if a clean component for a short period of time, but then if you leave it to it's own.....the WD40 will be gone and you have a bone dry component that may be susceptible to oxidation. I'll not stab at what lube should be used.....but if it a moving part, it should have some lube on it. If you need it to stay dry use the powdered Graphite.
Posted on: 2009/10/11 15:49
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Re: The "will these wheels fit" thread |
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^^I'm just looking for another set of take offs. I'm almost convinced that I have a bent wheel, so I looking to get something else....plus something that is a little more up to date....then you get tires as well.....bonus.
Posted on: 2009/10/5 1:45
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Re: The "will these wheels fit" thread |
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So I would need a 23mm spacer for the rears?
But...aren't the 84 offset different than the later years you listed?
Posted on: 2009/10/5 0:32
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Re: Rear Diff Removal |
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^^Dan, I did it, and basically it is as simple as that loop that CC posted.
Just start taking things out in a logical order. It really is a simple process. Trying to use a jack was a mistake. I used it taking the D36 out. basically you take the pin out of one side and let that one side down....then do the other side and let it down slowly. Putting the new one is the same way. life up one side and put the pin(large bolt) in.....then go to the other side and lift and put the pin in. Everything else is basically....what bolts hold it in....take 'em loose and remove [X] item....
Posted on: 2009/10/5 0:19
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The "will these wheels fit" thread |
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I know they won't go straight on with any spacers....but what spacers?
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/1397405314.html  
Posted on: 2009/10/5 0:05
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Re: rearend problem |
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Posted on: 2009/9/29 15:18
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Re: rearend problem |
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There are two different size u-joints....
If the straps aren't contacting the u-joint there is a problem. Was the old u-joint hard to press out of the half shaft? Was the new one hard to press back into the half shaft?
Posted on: 2009/9/28 16:56
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Re: how do you fix a seat belt retractor that gets tighter and tighter |
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Yeah...but from a legal standpoint.....not one Manufacturer would turn you away with a seat belt issue......
Push that button and see where it takes you.. One time with a Nissan retracting deal on the door.....it was broken so I took it to the Dealer to be fixed. They quoted some outrages price to fix it......I told them to put it back together and leave it alone.... ....when I went to get it from them....the thing was fixed and everyone was sorta quiet as to why it was fixed at no charge......
Posted on: 2009/9/16 14:51
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Re: How to remove front bumper cover ?? |
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From my experience...this is the best way to do it.....take out everything and paint it all while on the saw horses.
When it is on the car there is a lot of masking etc......and usually there is a top part that you can hang it while reinstalling it....then you just start replacing nuts or screws whichever the case may be... simple...
Posted on: 2009/9/14 20:22
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Re: How to remove front bumper cover ?? |
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Most likely, it is just a bunch of fasteners on the perimeter. I could be wrong...take out what you can see and pull....then you'll know. They aren't really hard.
I took off the RX7 and another...and it was pretty straight forward. Sorry, not much help other than mental support...
Posted on: 2009/9/14 19:43
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Re: Early C4 exhaust |
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I'd just use a "good" muffler shop......ya know...one the bends and welds things properly....and just make the changes that you want
Posted on: 2009/9/14 19:38
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Re: 84 z51 headlight |
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Good job on the Pics Pappy.....We should get Bogus to translate redneck and make this a Sticky thread.
Posted on: 2009/9/1 15:32
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Re: 84 z51 headlight |
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So tell me, why would the motor stop trying to spin after a while???
I know where you are going with the line of questioning.... there is "something" that senses the voltage spike and tells the motor to stop. You tell me what it is and we'll all be better off for it won't we?? You may have a better way of explaining it to Pappy, I was just trying to let him know that there aren't "limit switches" to be triggered or set or adjusted.
Posted on: 2009/8/8 2:24
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Re: 84 z51 headlight |
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Damn! I feel bad for steering you wrong....and yes you have the newer style motors.
Of course why would you bother to pull then out until you got the replacement part in hand......sux for all of us I guess. Someone will need those gears. be patient....someone will paypal you money for them.
Posted on: 2009/8/5 18:17
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Re: Overheated at the drive through Zoo |
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Thanks for keeping it "light" in here BillH, I apologize and promise to keep my mouth shut when the Demons are trying to slip out....
Posted on: 2009/7/27 20:01
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Re: Overheated at the drive through Zoo |
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Also sounds like BillH's approach would be cost effective - spent so much on this old girl already (but never want to cut any corners). Also I would very much like to know how I might go about installing a fan switch for instant peace of mind.
you can be mad at me all you would like. There are plenty of things that you have much more knowledge about than I do. It is clear that you do a ton more work on these cars than I have/will. All I'm calling to question is, why do we so quickly advise someone to make modifications, in the primary stages of the first sign of troubles....we get all the things fixed and there are still troubles.....go for the mods.... It's alright if you dislike me from this point forward.....this isn't the first time nor the last time I have destroyed a well valued belief for others.
Posted on: 2009/7/25 14:42
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Re: Overheated at the drive through Zoo |
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billh, I only focused on the "manual switch" comment. Why are we going there just yet??
Lee Majors walks in to the Doctor complaining about a hang nail...next thing you know Billh is the doctor and Lee Majors is the 6 million dollar man. Sure it's cool to run 60mph but couldn't we get a hand creme to address the Hang Nail?? Yes, the Velcro shoes helps on days when my dyslexia is acting up CC. What confuses me the most is when people have this nifty computer to monitor these things, and they bypass that computer for system that has the human occupant watching a readout and flipping manual switches while driving in traffic....but only do this on Hot days. dan0617, Like I finished with, I am not sure of that statement, so thanks for letting us know that this could not be an issue.
Posted on: 2009/7/25 13:36
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Re: Overheated at the drive through Zoo |
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Good post Dan.
Beach and Bill, Stop it.....Why would you suggest that this guy modify a system that has not been properly maintained?? The Car is how old?? I'll betcha a smooth $100 that the radiator has NEVER been pulled and boiled. Go back and read the shape the car was in when the OP received it from the Previous owner before you take my bet. I'll remind you....The car was neglected so badly that even at 40k miles....it wouldn't even start and run..... Pet peeve for me...."modify prior to maintaining", when the Mods don't work go back and check the things you should have in the first place........Does that sound correct in any way?
Posted on: 2009/7/24 18:43
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Re: Overheated at the drive through Zoo |
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240 is a little high....shut it down at 250°
Posted on: 2009/7/24 16:02
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Re: Overheated at the drive through Zoo |
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I think the heat is one issue and the Idle/Stalling is another that may have a relation.
I think your computer is on it's last leg and heat disturbs it to a point of malfunctioning. It's like the brake Master Cylinder, it is not tied to the cooling system in any way, however, if you have an aging one, Higher under hood temps lead to blow by and you have to pump the brakes.....get out of stop and go traffic....the temps come down and the brakes suddenly work again without needing to be pumped. That is my theory with your wacky readings and stalling. But I have no clue if you care for the truth. I'm just throwing things out there. Second, thepartsladi has a direct replacement radiator for $100USD. You should pull yours, have it "boiled" out at a radiator shop or get a replacement...years of sediment is in the bottom of the "inside" of the radiator, if you've never pulled it for cleaning, that is your issue. Yes, there will be debris in between the A/C condenser and the radiator. Once you pull the top shroud off the radiator to remove it....you'll see what everyone is talking about without a doubt. That Debris needs to be addressed at least annually.
Posted on: 2009/7/24 13:24
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Re: Synthetic oil question |
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^^I dunno.....I get a 5 quart jug of GTX for ~$12 on sale at Wal-Mart....
I keep a jug or two always.....The only thing that holds me up on oil changes sometimes...would be having a filter hanging around the garage.....I'll use that excuse to procrastinate.
Posted on: 2009/7/23 15:06
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Re: Synthetic oil question |
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I've been running/racing Castrol GTX 20-50 in everything since the mid 80s.
I've never experienced an oil related failure. I thought I did one time in the early 90s, but when I broke down the engine, I found that the pins that held a pulley to a cam had failed and that had created a knocking sound. The Case was as fresh looking as the day I built that motor.
Posted on: 2009/7/23 14:01
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Re: 84 z51 headlight |
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The funny thing about it is, They seem to "go" at that same time....within months of each other.
So yeah, order two of the larger white ones.
Posted on: 2009/7/20 14:57
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Re: So Calif tuner The Dyno shop |
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Cuisinart comes down this way, but he is up in the Valley area. Whereas, CC is in San Diego.
Posted on: 2009/7/20 14:56
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Re: Wheel bearings, why cant C4's get the good stuff too? |
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See, if you had left your stock saw blades on the car you wouldn't need these ducts.....where is that "leaving" icon..
Posted on: 2009/7/20 4:19
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Re: So Calif tuner The Dyno shop |
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Central Coaster is down your way, He'd look at it for you.....kick him down a bit of $$ for gas.
Posted on: 2009/7/20 4:17
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Re: Knock Sensor Stuck |
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^^Good as any excuse ever.......
Posted on: 2009/7/19 16:43
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Re: zf 6 speed swap update |
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Good Job, keep us posted on the performance after a few weeks has gone by.
Posted on: 2009/7/19 15:16
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Re: Knock Sensor Stuck |
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^^You got that right.....Wanted to rotate the tires on the Trooper last eve. My back is still sore from the 6 lugs......There is no way they were 90 ft lbs....More like 200
Picture some poor slob like me on the side of the road trying to use that little lug wrench to change a flat in the dark next time you squeeze that impact wrench trigger.... What if it is an industrious independent Mother and 13 year old boy trying to break those loose......true story.....need another beer...
Posted on: 2009/7/19 14:50
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Re: how to add ATF |
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If there is no "Funny Vette" issues....you just use a funnel with a small lower portion and pour the ATF in the same hole the Dipstick comes out of.
That is standard for US built Auto tranny's for decades.
Posted on: 2009/7/18 17:58
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Re: 84 z51 headlight |
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Here is the only tips you need.
Unhook the power to the motor. Twist the rubber thing on teh bottom of the motor to rotate the bucket. There are Torx screws exposed at that time. Take them off and remove all the painted things and set them aside so they don't get scratched. Then just using your eyes to see what is holding the bucket in place, remove the bolts. There is a "Question mark" looking bracket that holds every thing and there is a few bolts that hold the motor. The "Question Mark bracket" is attached directly to the hood. The wires run through it... Once you get all that loose the whole bucket comes out. Then separate the motor from the bucket. Using the screws on the side, Open the motor up. Careful not to let the motor itself come out of the housing or the brushes could get damaged. Lift the large white gear out....there are these lead things in the slots.....move them to the new gear and drop it back in the same spot the old cam out......put it all back together. Go to the other side of the hood and repeat the process. I promise you the first one will take you 2 hours where the second one will take you 20 minutes.
Posted on: 2009/7/18 16:56
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Re: What is your opinion..... |
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If I still lived in Houston/Lufkin  Not sure why they cannot find it. This strikes controversy every time....but if you are tired of having a shop put a "gas" into a close loop system, just let me know. I'll tell you how to refill with 134a for $50..... If the system is leaking down in 20 minutes...that needs to be addressed prior to filling it with anything. And if the system is leaking down in 20 minutes and the vacuum showed nothing......95Vette Nailed it when he said it was the schraeder Valve. Think about it, the vacuum lines are hooked into the port that is sealed by that very valve. So what is the variable between the time when the vacuum is being pulled and when the system is allowed to sit on it's own??? The Schreader Valve goes from having a fitting on it to it being allowed to stand on it's own..... Schreader valves (I cannot spell that word) are very easy to fix. No reason "Not" to switch it out just to be sure.
Posted on: 2009/7/18 16:48
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Re: Knock Sensor Stuck |
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Posted on: 2009/7/18 16:28
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Re: Knock Sensor Stuck |
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Well, if you drill it small.....then you try the EZ out and that won't grab it (it will)....then you just move to the larger size drill bit and drill out a little more...removing meat... Once it gets thin enough you'll now have a thin tube with threads on the outside of it. Think about putting a sharp point and hitting it thereby collapsing one side of your tube. Next, If you aren't careful and you bugger the threads. You may have to drill out the hole in the block....Tap it larger and then put a Helicoil in place  Now you are spending some "quality" time with your lovely Vette.
Posted on: 2009/7/18 16:26
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Re: Wow! What Fun/Trouble These Cars Are! Water Pump! |
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95, the '84 has all those components bolted to the front of the water pump......it was a two day job for me.....First day to take everything...and I mean everything of the front....The next day I put it all back together.
For an example....How would buying new Valve cover gaskets be related to swapping a water pump??? I'll tell you over a beer one day. Just stay focused and take a few more breaks from this job, you'll get it done.
Posted on: 2009/7/18 14:49
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Re: Mop and Glo as a cleaner and detail tool |
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Senior Guru
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2007/10/29 0:00 Posts:
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^^Good man, Will!
I discovered this when I raced Motocross in the mid 80s. We used to use it to polish up all the plastic on our bikes. Worked like a charm....
Posted on: 2009/7/17 22:49
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Senior Guru
Joined:
2007/10/29 0:00 Posts:
1044
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Huh? Simple green ate through Aluminum?
Posted on: 2009/7/17 21:18
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